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Can you guys recommend a stainless steel to use, I've seen guys use 440c, not sure if its good or not. I just want a nice SS that most places will be able to heat treat for me View Quote 440 C established a bad rep early in the game it was one of the early super steels and most every manufacturer made it (from different recipes) and heat treating was somewhat iffy (as it was all different). Such is no longer the case it makes a good serviceable blade especially since the heat treating people started freezing every thing as part of the heat treating process. It does have some advantages over most of the other steels, if you wish to discuss it we can do it. Try a little bit of everything and find what you like to work with but keep in mind you have to be able to sale it. I generally work with 154 CM and when its hard to come by I use ATS 34, every one knows what they are and these materials sale them selves. I would suggest you avoid the new super steel of the week, its a rabbit hole with no end. BTW your blade looks pretty good. |
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Can you guys recommend a stainless steel to use, I've seen guys use 440c, not sure if its good or not. I just want a nice SS that most places will be able to heat treat for me View Quote i'm just here to learn and admire, but i'll weigh in on this. my dad has been making knives by stock removal for ~60 years, and has tried pretty much every kind of steel you can grind a blade out of. He played with 440C for a bit, and thinks it's decent stainless. but since he started working with D2, he has never touched 440C again. D2 isn't high enough in chromium to be classified as stainless, and per dad it is not the easiest steel to work. but it doesn't corrode easily, and it will hold an edge very well. it's supposedly a bit brittle, but dad does everything straight taper with no secondary bevel, and even with hard use we've never seen any edge chips. most people in here know more than i about knifemaking, so i'll go back to listening. but i figured i'd mention this. |
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D2 isn't nearly as brittle as some people make it out to be, or, it doesn't need to be, draw it back enough rather than leaving it 62RC. I haven't made many knives(6-8), but I've made thousands of tools that cut, punch or shear, from D2, M2, S7, A2, O1, 440C, 440V, CPM 15v, carbide of various grades, and based on that experience I think D2 and M2 make fantastic materials for knives.
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I think the knife looks great with the stain you applied. Maybe I can say THAT at your memorial service View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If I don't report back its because my wife killed me when she found out that her current project is covered in wood dust I think the knife looks great with the stain you applied. Maybe I can say THAT at your memorial service Dibs on fly rods! |
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If I don't report back its because my wife killed me when she found out that her current project is covered in wood dust I think the knife looks great with the stain you applied. Maybe I can say THAT at your memorial service Dibs on fly rods! I'm still alive assholes Have any of you guys done stone washing? I really like the look. I've seen a few guys online do it with some acid from radio shack and then tossing it in a tumbler with media and a few stones. Is that way a legit way to get a stone wash look to the blade? |
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I'm still alive assholes Have any of you guys done stone washing? I really like the look. I've seen a few guys online do it with some acid from radio shack and then tossing it in a tumbler with media and a few stones. Is that way a legit way to get a stone wash look to the blade? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If I don't report back its because my wife killed me when she found out that her current project is covered in wood dust I think the knife looks great with the stain you applied. Maybe I can say THAT at your memorial service Dibs on fly rods! I'm still alive assholes Have any of you guys done stone washing? I really like the look. I've seen a few guys online do it with some acid from radio shack and then tossing it in a tumbler with media and a few stones. Is that way a legit way to get a stone wash look to the blade? I have the triangle media for my vibratory tumbler. I should throw a blade in there and let it vibrate for 24 hrs and see what happens. |
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I have the triangle media for my vibratory tumbler. I should throw a blade in there and let it vibrate for 24 hrs and see what happens. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If I don't report back its because my wife killed me when she found out that her current project is covered in wood dust I think the knife looks great with the stain you applied. Maybe I can say THAT at your memorial service Dibs on fly rods! I'm still alive assholes Have any of you guys done stone washing? I really like the look. I've seen a few guys online do it with some acid from radio shack and then tossing it in a tumbler with media and a few stones. Is that way a legit way to get a stone wash look to the blade? I have the triangle media for my vibratory tumbler. I should throw a blade in there and let it vibrate for 24 hrs and see what happens. Everything i've read/watched has guys put the blade in ferric acid first |
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View Quote Lawnmower blades are generally 1095 or similar which is a good blade steel and oil quenching. |
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Lawnmower blades can be just about anything. They can run the spectrum from 1095 to induction hardened mild steel. If you can get a hold of the tech dept of the company they might be able to tell you. A quench test can tell you if it will harden.
The steel on a per blade basis is not all that expensive. If you buy a 4" stick for $30 you can get 5-6 blades for $5 to $6 each. Some steel can be had even cheaper. If you forge and make through tang blades you can get even more blades but cost is offset by the cost to run the forge. Imo, the blade is not where one should skimp on a knife. A knife is only as good as the steel,it is made from. Then the heat treat is the most important part of getting the most out of your steel. |
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any suggestions on how to keep the dust down when sanding the handles with the grinder?
buying a vacuum system is not going to happen any time soon. I could jury rig a spare shop vac I have |
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any suggestions on how to keep the dust down when sanding the handles with the grinder? buying a vacuum system is not going to happen any time soon. I could jury rig a spare shop vac I have View Quote Go outside. No seriously, you can control a lot of the dust with lots of immediate airflow next to the workpiece, but you'll never get it all. Shop vac + fan in the window downstream of your wife's project might keep you off the couch. |
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sweet, thanks guys. I figured someone had to make an adapter for a shop vac. Glad I kept that stupid thing now, it will finally see some use now.
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I'm going to try messing around with acid on one of my knives.
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I just re read that I should have said i'm going to mess around with ferric chloride and i might also try forcing patinas. We'll see, i'm in this to have fun View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I'm going to try messing around with acid on one of my knives. I just re read that I should have said i'm going to mess around with ferric chloride and i might also try forcing patinas. We'll see, i'm in this to have fun Clearly. |
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So I've been using my knife for awhile now, between cutting everything from food to a million pieces of paper it seems 1084 gets a patina pretty easy.
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Yes 1084 and most all simple carbon steel will patina easily. Well they out said you wanted to try and force the patina anyway. how is the edge holding up?
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Yes 1084 and most all simple carbon steel will patina easily. Well they out said you wanted to try and force the patina anyway. how is the edge holding up? View Quote The edge has been good, its only just now starting to get slightly dull, but I've been cutting everything just playing around. I also finished my second knife and honestly I really don't like it, I think the blade design is stupid looking and I tried playing around with finger grooves on the handle and it looks like shit. I'm so glad that wasn't my first knife |
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You can always re-grind it. Just take it slow and dip it often. If you don't like the handle break it off and redo it.
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And yes you learned the hard way about finger grooves. They only fit a few people and if they're not right they feel scrappy.
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And yes you learned the hard way about finger grooves. They only fit a few people and if they're not right they feel scrappy. View Quote I wanted to play around with it. I'm not going to redo the knife, I'm not going to tear myself up over my second blade being crap. I've already got 8 others going right now Those look much better |
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Yea, sometimes that is best. I have blades laying all over I lost interest in. Not worth the time to mess with. You do have it bad. 8 blades wow!
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Knife looks great. My stone washing technique. Acid soak 2 mins, then neutralize with windex, than tumble for about 2 minutes in a vibratory tumbler with ceramic media. Results <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/skirmishnew_zpsd63d0560.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/skirmishnew_zpsd63d0560.jpg</a> <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/cavemankiri3_zpsf1e3d2a6.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/cavemankiri3_zpsf1e3d2a6.jpg</a> View Quote I really like that look. are there certain steels that don't take to stone washing? I have a question about those three knives, how do you get the pattern on the handle? I've seen that look a lot and I like it. |
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Quoted: Knife looks great. My stone washing technique. Acid soak 2 mins, then neutralize with windex, than tumble for about 2 minutes in a vibratory tumbler with ceramic media. Results http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/skirmishnew_zpsd63d0560.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/cavemankiri3_zpsf1e3d2a6.jpg View Quote I like the primitive look of those. |
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View Quote so he took a saw blade and made a knife....to cut wood. j/k cool vid, thanks for posting. |
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I really like that look. are there certain steels that don't take to stone washing? I have a question about those three knives, how do you get the pattern on the handle? I've seen that look a lot and I like it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Knife looks great. My stone washing technique. Acid soak 2 mins, then neutralize with windex, than tumble for about 2 minutes in a vibratory tumbler with ceramic media. Results <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/skirmishnew_zpsd63d0560.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/skirmishnew_zpsd63d0560.jpg</a> <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/cavemankiri3_zpsf1e3d2a6.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/cavemankiri3_zpsf1e3d2a6.jpg</a> I really like that look. are there certain steels that don't take to stone washing? I have a question about those three knives, how do you get the pattern on the handle? I've seen that look a lot and I like it. The ones picutred are 1084 and 1075. I use ferric cholride mixed 50/50 with water. Most high carbon will take acid etching well. Since they are oil hardening sometimes the acid etch can leave an inconsistint finish but the stonwashing helps to even it out some. I have found that A2 takes a good, even, and dark etch while CPM3V and D2 takes a good, even etch but not as dark as some of the carbon steel I have done. The texure on those 3 Kiris was made by grinding with a small wheel on a 2 x 72" grinder. 1" wheel, I think. I really like the bare and primitive look of this finish. I call them "Naked Kiris". Keep pumping away and try to learn as much as you can and each knife will just get better than the last. |
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I have a shopvac set up at my grinder. I will get some pics of it tomorrow.
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Quoted: I have two knives on hand that I did a acid/stone wash treatment on. Both are stainless blades. I will get some pics tomorrow. I have been playing with some different patinas too. Here is a knife with a stainless blade in just a Ferric etch (about 1 min.) with a forced patina on some copper. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I'm going to try messing around with acid on one of my knives. I just re read that I should have said i'm going to mess around with ferric chloride and i might also try forcing patinas. We'll see, i'm in this to have fun I have two knives on hand that I did a acid/stone wash treatment on. Both are stainless blades. I will get some pics tomorrow. I have been playing with some different patinas too. Here is a knife with a stainless blade in just a Ferric etch (about 1 min.) with a forced patina on some copper. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg Those are friggin' awesome. |
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I have two knives on hand that I did a acid/stone wash treatment on. Both are stainless blades. I will get some pics tomorrow. I have been playing with some different patinas too. Here is a knife with a stainless blade in just a Ferric etch (about 1 min.) with a forced patina on some copper. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I'm going to try messing around with acid on one of my knives. I just re read that I should have said i'm going to mess around with ferric chloride and i might also try forcing patinas. We'll see, i'm in this to have fun I have two knives on hand that I did a acid/stone wash treatment on. Both are stainless blades. I will get some pics tomorrow. I have been playing with some different patinas too. Here is a knife with a stainless blade in just a Ferric etch (about 1 min.) with a forced patina on some copper. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-j268W4k/0/L/i-j268W4k-L.jpg Awesome! |
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Here are two stainless blades that I did a quick etch in Ferric and tumbled for 12 min. The flats have been polished for a two tone look. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-X9SzjcB/0/L/i-X9SzjcB-L.jpg This is my simple vac set up. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-qpvN7s8/0/L/i-qpvN7s8-L.jpg View Quote I'm going to jury rig something with my vac this weekend. I have a question about those blades, how do you get a curved plunge line? Is that something I need to be doing on the wheel? The reason I have so many knives going is so I can practice grinding bevels. I'm getting confident with the flat grind, I'm learning and getting a feel for knowing when I'm hitting the sweet spot. |
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I'm currently designing a knife for my wife, I'm going to use some mammoth scales, shes always loved wholly mammoths so I'm going to get some scales with teeth or ivory embedded in them
like this http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=7044 |
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I'm currently designing a knife for my wife, I'm going to use some mammoth scales, shes always loved wholly mammoths so I'm going to get some scales with teeth or ivory embedded in them like this http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=7044 View Quote Mammoth tooth is a bitch to drill straight holes in. The bit hits hard areas and wants to wander. I've got a set of mammoth tooth scales that are basically trash because of this issue. If I was you I would go with mammoth ivory it is much easier to use. You must have very sharp drill bits to work tooth, ivory or pearl. I've not used the compressed stuff though just the whole slabbed tooth scales. The price on the scales you showed seems kind of high. Try this guy Fine Turnage I've been using his stuff for a few years. It is reasonably priced and ships quickly. IM me with a phone # if you want to discuss this further. |
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Mammoth tooth is a bitch to drill straight holes in. The bit hits hard areas and wants to wander. I've got a set of mammoth tooth scales that are basically trash because of this issue. If I was you I would go with mammoth ivory it is much easier to use. You must have very sharp drill bits to work tooth, ivory or pearl. I've not used the compressed stuff though just the whole slabbed tooth scales. The price on the scales you showed seems kind of high. Try this guy Fine Turnage I've been using his stuff for a few years. It is reasonably priced and ships quickly. IM me with a phone # if you want to discuss this further. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I'm currently designing a knife for my wife, I'm going to use some mammoth scales, shes always loved wholly mammoths so I'm going to get some scales with teeth or ivory embedded in them like this http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=7044 Mammoth tooth is a bitch to drill straight holes in. The bit hits hard areas and wants to wander. I've got a set of mammoth tooth scales that are basically trash because of this issue. If I was you I would go with mammoth ivory it is much easier to use. You must have very sharp drill bits to work tooth, ivory or pearl. I've not used the compressed stuff though just the whole slabbed tooth scales. The price on the scales you showed seems kind of high. Try this guy Fine Turnage I've been using his stuff for a few years. It is reasonably priced and ships quickly. IM me with a phone # if you want to discuss this further. Thanks I'm currently at work but I'd like to chat with you at some point, maybe this weekend we can talk |
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I'm going to jury rig something with my vac this weekend. I have a question about those blades, how do you get a curved plunge line? Is that something I need to be doing on the wheel? The reason I have so many knives going is so I can practice grinding bevels. I'm getting confident with the flat grind, I'm learning and getting a feel for knowing when I'm hitting the sweet spot. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Here are two stainless blades that I did a quick etch in Ferric and tumbled for 12 min. The flats have been polished for a two tone look. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-X9SzjcB/0/L/i-X9SzjcB-L.jpg This is my simple vac set up. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-qpvN7s8/0/L/i-qpvN7s8-L.jpg I'm going to jury rig something with my vac this weekend. I have a question about those blades, how do you get a curved plunge line? Is that something I need to be doing on the wheel? The reason I have so many knives going is so I can practice grinding bevels. I'm getting confident with the flat grind, I'm learning and getting a feel for knowing when I'm hitting the sweet spot. I do all hollow grinding (on a wheel). I actually found it easier than flat grinding. I used cheap weld steel that you can get at LOWES to practice my grinding. When I started, I was told to start with flat grinding and fixed blades. My first knife was a folder with a hollow grind... The sweeping plunge is stepped in. I start my grinding with 60 grit almost all the way up to my top line and down to ~ .020 at the cutting edge. The "plunge" is stepped toward the point as I grind up the blade. At 240 grit I start to drift my belt off the wheel about .125" and roll the blade at the plunge area. It is really hard to describe. Much better to show... It took me MANY blades to be able to do what I want on a blade. My advice is to never start to use a grinding jig. It will take longer to learn to grind, but you will be able to do so much more with your grinds. |
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I do all hollow grinding (on a wheel). I actually found it easier than flat grinding. I used cheap weld steel that you can get at LOWES to practice my grinding. When I started, I was told to start with flat grinding and fixed blades. My first knife was a folder with a hollow grind... The sweeping plunge is stepped in. I start my grinding with 60 grit almost all the way up to my top line and down to ~ .020 at the cutting edge. The "plunge" is stepped toward the point as I grind up the blade. At 240 grit I start to drift my belt off the wheel about .125" and roll the blade at the plunge area. It is really hard to describe. Much better to show... It took me MANY blades to be able to do what I want on a blade. My advice is to never start to use a grinding jig. It will take longer to learn to grind, but you will be able to do so much more with your grinds. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Here are two stainless blades that I did a quick etch in Ferric and tumbled for 12 min. The flats have been polished for a two tone look. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-X9SzjcB/0/L/i-X9SzjcB-L.jpg This is my simple vac set up. http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/i-qpvN7s8/0/L/i-qpvN7s8-L.jpg I'm going to jury rig something with my vac this weekend. I have a question about those blades, how do you get a curved plunge line? Is that something I need to be doing on the wheel? The reason I have so many knives going is so I can practice grinding bevels. I'm getting confident with the flat grind, I'm learning and getting a feel for knowing when I'm hitting the sweet spot. I do all hollow grinding (on a wheel). I actually found it easier than flat grinding. I used cheap weld steel that you can get at LOWES to practice my grinding. When I started, I was told to start with flat grinding and fixed blades. My first knife was a folder with a hollow grind... The sweeping plunge is stepped in. I start my grinding with 60 grit almost all the way up to my top line and down to ~ .020 at the cutting edge. The "plunge" is stepped toward the point as I grind up the blade. At 240 grit I start to drift my belt off the wheel about .125" and roll the blade at the plunge area. It is really hard to describe. Much better to show... It took me MANY blades to be able to do what I want on a blade. My advice is to never start to use a grinding jig. It will take longer to learn to grind, but you will be able to do so much more with your grinds. Thanks for the advice, i've seen people suggest jigs for grinding, but i'd rather learn to do it by hand. I'll feel better about making knives, knowing it was my hand that did it and not a jig. Sort of learning to ride without the training wheels. I love using the grinder though, its relaxing to go to my work room and just cut away. |
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Also, don't tell someone who uses a jig that they are not grinding... They get mad... If you ever have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I will answer any question you have. Nothing I do is a secret...
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Also, don't tell someone who uses a jig that they are not grinding... They get mad... If you ever have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I will answer any question you have. Nothing I do is a secret... View Quote thanks on thing I have noticed about knife guys is that they are all willing to help another guy out and give advice on how to do things. Its a nice change from pretty much every other hobby out there. Theres just so much to learn and try, I know I keep saying this but this is so much damn fun I'lll have to get pics up of my newest knives, I've started making curvier blades |
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How the F*#( did I miss this thread?
Great job OP as well as a for the bladesmiths offering virtual apprenticing. |
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I don't post much but I have been following this thread since the beginning. I've really enjoyed it and your for looks great for just starting out.
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