Any mechanic's on today, Truck shaking bad at 45mph - Page 2

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Any mechanic's on today, Truck shaking bad at 45mph (Page 2 of 3)

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:20:13 PM EDT

[#1]

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Even more reason to suggest it's bad gas, sheesh.

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LOL.

Do you know how I know you have never driven a diesel?

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:22:24 PM EDT

[#2]

Sounds like a lot of the big offenders are already ruled out so I'm gonna throw out sector lash as a possibility.

Recirculating ball type steering boxes have a sector shaft & worm gear that can develop play or excessive backlash. I'd also double check that the steering box is tight to the frame.

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:30:10 PM EDT

[#3]

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Never heard of a diesel having a misfire.

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45 is right where the converter locks up. are you 100% sure its not a misfire?

Never heard of a diesel having a misfire.

Oh they do. Bad injector, or anything affecting the valvetrain can cause a miss.

Even though the tires are newer and have been balanced and rotated, Check them for a tread separation, look for bubbles and bulges.

Have a friend follow you and watch and see if there is tire hop or which of the 4 corners is vibrating the most. Then the u joints and drivelines.

There is my ideas.

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:31:23 PM EDT

[#4]

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Quoted:
Sounds like a lot of the big offenders are already ruled out so I'm gonna throw out sector lash as a possibility.

Recirculating ball type steering boxes have a sector shaft & worm gear that can develop play or excessive backlash. I'd also double check that the steering box is tight to the frame.

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Excellent analogy.
We do swap out a lot of steering boxes on the higher mileage Dmax's, and they do tend to get lose on the frame.

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:32:50 PM EDT

[#5]

Torque lug nuts.

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:35:33 PM EDT

[#6]

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300K miles, it's time to look at the entire truck not focus on the front end. You are at the point where the odd ball things go bad not just the common problems. Take a look at your drive shaft and u joints, rear differential for bad bearings, engine miss-fires.

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I'd be willing to bet it's your U JOINTS. Remove your drive shaft and check them. Sometimes they will tend to lock up.

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:37:25 PM EDT

[#7]

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Last time this happened to me it was a bad shock.

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On my 2000 Jeep Wrangler, it was the same thing. Both front shocks were shot. Thinking it was all the driving down in Colorado... There are some bad spots on I-25 down around Fort Collins which wore the shocks prematurely. It also caused my 33" tires to have some scalloping and weird wear from the bouncing. Shocks were changed and it went away.

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:47:59 PM EDT

[#8]

check the front track bar where it connects to the frame. If the bolt hole is wallowed out it will move in the mount and cause the whole front end to oscillate. My Jeep has been doing it for years, and I've done everything I can to fix it. I have a new mount sitting in the garage to replace the stock location. Getting it done in 2 weeks...finally!

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:49:00 PM EDT

[#9]

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Never heard of a diesel having a misfire.

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45 is right where the converter locks up. are you 100% sure its not a misfire?

Never heard of a diesel having a misfire.

I never heard of a Duranax.

Posted: 11/23/2014 4:55:34 PM EDT

[#10]

Probably highly unlikely, but how are your driveshaft u-joints?

Zach

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:02:05 PM EDT

[#11]

Most likely: Slipped belt in one(or more) of your tires currently mounted on the front of your truck.

Less likely: a combination of an excessively worn steering box/cheap & out-of-spec front end parts/a crappy alignment/poorly balanced tires.

Stacked out-of-tolerance parts equals looseness.

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:06:24 PM EDT

[#12]

After inspecting my tires a little it looks like one has a dent in the sidewall.

Think discount will replace it under warranty?

I guess I could change it out with my spair to see if that fixes it.

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:16:01 PM EDT

[#13]

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i have been thinking it may be this or the transmission, but when i put it in neutral at 50 mph it still shakes

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45 is right where the converter locks up. are you 100% sure its not a misfire?

i have been thinking it may be this or the transmission, but when i put it in neutral at 50 mph it still shakes

That is the most appropriate check to rule out engine and torque related vibration.

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:28:31 PM EDT

[#14]

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I have an 05 Duranax 4x4 with a little over 300k miles on the OD and parts are starting to go out. Long story short, i have replaced everything that has to do with my front end steering and have gotten an alignment but the damn thing still shakes really bad when driving. It starts right at 45mph.

Went and got an alignment yesterday and had the tires rotated and balanced.

What else do i need to look for?

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You probably have a tread/belt separation in one tire, the shaking most often starts around 45-50 mph. They are extremely difficult to spot until the tire starts coming apart. If you have a full size spare you can start by putting that on, drive checking for shake, remove, put on another location etc. until the shaking stops, or if the tires are more than 50% worn, go get a new set..

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:31:29 PM EDT

[#15]

Had a Mustang that did this. Right around 45mph the front would shimmy like the alignment was way off.

Drove me crazy trying to find out what it was - ended up being a bent rim.

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:46:36 PM EDT

[#16]

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Dana 60 front axle? If so the infamous "death wobble".
Check the bushings on the stabilizer bar from the front axle to the frame.
Fords are notorious for it at around 35-40 mph.
ETA: Also check king pins for slop.

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05 duramax. It has IFS.

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:49:13 PM EDT

[#17]

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Dent in drive shaft?

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Bad ujoints on driveshafts?

Posted: 11/23/2014 5:51:12 PM EDT

[#18]

Most likely a tire but u joints are a possibility. You could also have a torque convertor on it's way out. Usually they will vibrate at a certain engine rpm regardless of whether it's in gear or not. It's not super common but I have seen the welded lugs rip off the cover of a convertor...it's a monster but that would be enough to unbalance one

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:04:19 PM EDT

[#19]

Bad CV shaft?

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:09:36 PM EDT

[#20]

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After inspecting my tires a little it looks like one has a dent in the sidewall.

Think discount will replace it under warranty?

I guess I could change it out with my spair to see if that fixes it.

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Does the dent look like a slight crease going from the tread to the sidewall?

Like this:

If so, that's normal.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:11:07 PM EDT

[#21]

A 2000 F-150 at work had a vibration problem. It turned out to be a bad bushing/seal where the driveshaft connects to the transmission.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:20:52 PM EDT

[#22]

Willing to bet it is the Rancho steering stabilizer. I own a NAPA store and refuse to sell them after 2 separate death wobble instances. Go back with OE style.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:21:04 PM EDT

[#23]

I'd check u-joints also. Another thing to consider is check the shocks. Have someone drive next to you checking both sides for wheel hop at speed.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:23:38 PM EDT

[#24]

If you have your old stabilizer, go throw it on real quick. I bet you it stops.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:25:39 PM EDT

[#25]

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Ball joints are the outer bearings on the GM IFS, the inner upper and lower A arms have bushings, right? Play there can cause precessional oscillation with the best balanced wheel assemblies. The forces are large, you might not be able to sense play. Check for degraded bushing material and replace as necessary.

Sounds like death wobble, a problem with older Dana 60 kingpin style live axles. The upper bushing springs on the kingpin pair gets weak, inducing play. Swapping out bushings and springs cures it, and that is an easy job. The bushings on the IFS are a pain, sorry.

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no king pins on a duramax certainly no front springs either torsion bars for the win!

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:40:31 PM EDT

[#26]

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Does the dent look like a slight crease going from the tread to the sidewall?

Like this:

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/tiretech/sidewall_indentation.jpg

If so, that's normal.

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Quoted:
After inspecting my tires a little it looks like one has a dent in the sidewall.

Think discount will replace it under warranty?

I guess I could change it out with my spair to see if that fixes it.

Does the dent look like a slight crease going from the tread to the sidewall?

Like this:

http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/tiretech/sidewall_indentation.jpg

If so, that's normal.

ya it looks like that

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:41:09 PM EDT

[#27]

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If you have your old stabilizer, go throw it on real quick. I bet you it stops.

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i put the new one on trying to fix the problem.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:43:12 PM EDT

[#28]

Could be a bad tire, they will sometimes balence even though the tire is bad. Should be "road forced" balenced if you shop has that stly balencer.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:48:02 PM EDT

[#29]

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Willing to bet it is the Rancho steering stabilizer. I own a NAPA store and refuse to sell them after 2 separate death wobble instances. Go back with OE style.

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Steering stabilizers don't cause or solve death wobble, it can mask or band aid the symptoms but is not the underlying problem.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:53:48 PM EDT

[#30]

Hmm. I still wouldn't rule it out as an issue. We ordered a set of Rancho shocks and a stabilizer for my cousin's Dodge 5.9 4wd. He was having some slight wobble issues at speed. The Rancho put him and his son in a ditch a couple of miles down the road. Luckily they were ok. Replaced the Rancho stabilizer with an OE style Monroe and all was well. Not saying this is the source of your problem, but I've seen it a few times now with the Rancho stabilizers on larger 4x4 vehicles.

Posted: 11/23/2014 6:55:13 PM EDT

[#31]

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Steering stabilizers don't cause or solve death wobble, it can mask or band aid the symptoms but is not the underlying problem.

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Quoted:

Willing to bet it is the Rancho steering stabilizer. I own a NAPA store and refuse to sell them after 2 separate death wobble instances. Go back with OE style.

Steering stabilizers don't cause or solve death wobble, it can mask or band aid the symptoms but is not the underlying problem.

That may be. No trained mechanic here, just a part hustler. YMMV.

Posted: 11/23/2014 7:25:14 PM EDT

[#32]

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I just had the same problem on my sierra. It turned out both my front tires were warped. They had about 30k on them so I had to but 2 new ones.

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I had 2 with less than 10K fail. Both BFG tread separation.

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:04:17 PM EDT

[#33]

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Check your rotors, could be warped.

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THIS. Had that problem with several different vehicles. I finally learned to forget about turning rotors when doing brake jobs and simply replace the rotors now.

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:05:05 PM EDT

[#34]

drive shaft u joint

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:13:48 PM EDT

[#35]

Jack up the front tires and check for any play up and down side to side, if any at all its a wheel baring hub assembly gone bad.
Also check after driving if the wheel next to the lug nuts are hot.

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:14:22 PM EDT

[#36]

Engine mounts are possibly bad

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:19:24 PM EDT

[#37]

driveshaft carrier bearing.............maybe

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:21:01 PM EDT

[#38]

If nobody has said it yet, u joints.

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:22:17 PM EDT

[#39]

I'm going with a drivetrain issue myself.

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:24:03 PM EDT

[#40]

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driveshaft carrier bearing.............maybe

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Only certain models have a two piece shaft with a carrier bearing. They do go bad.

OP does the truck have a two piece rear drive shaft?

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:27:37 PM EDT

[#41]

Bad cv.

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:32:53 PM EDT

[#42]

New tires don't mean shit. A slipped belt may be visible or not, and can vary in it's symptoms from a pull or vibration. They said they rotated tires.....but I would try moving the front tires to the rear and see if it makes a difference. Just saying I've seen a lot of shit techs throw all the tires on the balancer and indiscriminately throw them back on the vehicle as rotated. Have you brought this problem up to a tech or have you just been throwing parts at it? I would have it diagnosed properly before spending more money.

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:36:08 PM EDT

[#43]

is it a dually?

How old are the tires? Any plugs or patches?

RE: photo of the tire is called undulation...If it dips in it is OK. If it sticks out it is a ply gap.

However, I have seen Goodyear warranty that condition under severe undulation.

Did it start vibrating after rotation?

If so you have a radial run-out issue ( out of round / out of balance )

Check inner wheels for dried mud build-up as well...I have seen that.

Did you by any chance do replace your brake rotors recently....I have seen imported rotors & drums w/ excess run-out

If dually, make sure shop has the right cone to properly seat hub center on balancer!!!

Cowpunk

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:50:50 PM EDT

[#44]

Any noises predating this vibration?

Also, since its a 4X4, i would check your transfer case. Is its fluid level up?

I had a bearing disintegrate in my transfer case, due to the (ATF) fluid level was insufficient

Posted: 11/23/2014 8:52:49 PM EDT

[#45]

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Quoted:
Dana 60 front axle? If so the infamous "death wobble".
Check the bushings on the stabilizer bar from the front axle to the frame.
Fords are notorious for it at around 35-40 mph.
ETA: Also check king pins for slop.

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Newer Chevys have independent front suspension.

Posted: 11/23/2014 9:19:22 PM EDT

[#46]

Does this happen when its cold

Maybe you have water freezing into ice in your tires

Could have balanced ok when not frozen

or maybe a prankster dumped a can of fix a flat in your tire when your truck was parked

Posted: 11/23/2014 9:21:33 PM EDT

[#47]

Have the alignment checked again...and have the balance on the tires checked.

Posted: 11/23/2014 9:35:17 PM EDT

[#48]

Frozen or stuck brake caliper?

Posted: 11/23/2014 9:42:09 PM EDT

[#49]

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THIS. Had that problem with several different vehicles. I finally learned to forget about turning rotors when doing brake jobs and simply replace the rotors now.

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Quoted:

Check your rotors, could be warped.

THIS. Had that problem with several different vehicles. I finally learned to forget about turning rotors when doing brake jobs and simply replace the rotors now.

I put a new set of rotors on my Mustang. I still had vibration issues around 60 with or without applying brakes. Ended up having them turned and problem went away.