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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:23:36 AM EDT
[#1]
Terrazo?
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:25:51 AM EDT
[#2]
I didn't read well enough, I take it garage meant house.
What about tile with dark joints and ditra underlayment? It separates the tile from the sub floor and basically gives it an expansion joint. I think you still need to refer to deflection tables for the joist spacing though. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:30:42 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I didn't read well enough, I take it garage meant house.
What about tile with dark joints and ditra underlayment? It separates the tile from the sub floor and basically gives it an expansion joint. I think you still need to refer to deflection tables for the joist spacing though. I want a nice garage floor in my kitchen. 
Tile is out. Grout will crack and hold smells, and it's hard to clean. That's why I want seamless. My Pomeranian has a chihuahua friend that sometimes has bad aim. 
If it weren't for her, I'd go with wood. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:39:55 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Terrazo? Or PRC.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:42:54 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I want a nice garage floor in my kitchen.
Tile is out. Grout will crack and hold smells, and it's hard to clean. That's why I want seamless. My Pomeranian has a chihuahua friend that sometimes has bad aim.
If it weren't for her, I'd go with wood. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I didn't read well enough, I take it garage meant house.
What about tile with dark joints and ditra underlayment? It separates the tile from the sub floor and basically gives it an expansion joint. I think you still need to refer to deflection tables for the joist spacing though. I want a nice garage floor in my kitchen.
Tile is out. Grout will crack and hold smells, and it's hard to clean. That's why I want seamless. My Pomeranian has a chihuahua friend that sometimes has bad aim.
If it weren't for her, I'd go with wood. That's why you use the ditra, it prevents cracking. Then add in epoxy grout and it should flex just fine. I feel you with the grout though, I did my kitchen with white grout like an idiot, I have two dogs. Eventually I need to grind it out and do it with something like dark brown or black. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:44:06 AM EDT
[#6]
What about wood flooring with clear two part epoxy over the whole mess.
You still get the look of wood, but the epoxy is pretty much bomb proof. Sort of like those bar tops you see made of pennies or bottle caps. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:47:37 AM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:48:50 AM EDT
[#8]
It might be less expensive to get a dog trainer.
I have a single sheet of vinyl with NO seams in the kitchen. Nothing goes through it unless there is a giant flood and it reaches where it meets the walls. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:49:37 AM EDT
[#9]
I am a project manager for a construction company and we have installed weldable vinyl flooring in hospital settings such as ER's and Operating rooms. It is manufactured by Armstrong Commercial Flooring. All seams are welded with vinyl to provide a watertight seal...
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:51:23 AM EDT
[#10]
The cheapest and easiest will be a roll of linoleum or vinyl flooring. Easy to install, won't crack, inexpensive, water sits on top (unless you punch holes in it), and cleans up easy.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:51:35 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What about wood flooring with clear two part epoxy over the whole mess. You still get the look of wood, but the epoxy is pretty much bomb proof. Sort of like those bar tops you see made of pennies or bottle caps. That could be really nice. I'm just afraid I'd crack or scratch it. Sounds wonderful tho, but maybe too nice for me. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:52:18 AM EDT
[#12]
sounds like you want tile. it's not nearly as hard as you think it is to lay tile.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:56:56 AM EDT
[#13]
Install plastic deck flooring with a quarter inch spacing between the planks.
Sweep and wash the dirt into the crawl space under the house. Move when the space fills, or remove the floor every 20 years for a clean out. An advanced installation leaves just one crack along one edge of the floor, with a trough under that track. The trough has a water line plumbed to the high end so it can be flushed outside the house foundation. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:58:00 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That could be really nice. I'm just afraid I'd crack or scratch it. Sounds wonderful tho, but maybe too nice for me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What about wood flooring with clear two part epoxy over the whole mess. You still get the look of wood, but the epoxy is pretty much bomb proof. Sort of like those bar tops you see made of pennies or bottle caps. That could be really nice. I'm just afraid I'd crack or scratch it. Sounds wonderful tho, but maybe too nice for me. Not if you use the industrial stuff. I have some I painted in my truck bed during a job 5 years ago, it still looks brand new in that spot. Expensive as hell though. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:06:15 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: I hate my kitchen tile. My wood frame house moves and cracks tile and would crack concrete too. hardi board installed correctly with a kerdi/schuler underlayment, then add tiles or concrete. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:08:19 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: , but the epoxy is pretty much bomb proof. Its also near impossible to fix damage w/o doing the entire top/floor. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:08:42 AM EDT
[#17]
I was a flooring installer for many years.
As others have stated, Tile can be made to work in a wood frame. After years of working with vinyl and carpet, it's only wood and ceramic tile for me. Vinyl isn't durable enough, and carpet holds dirt, allergens, bacteria, etc My house is a 1920 wood frame, it holds tile fine. It just has to be properly installed. Mine is floating on durarock. Med-n-tech and other seam welded vinyls are durable and will accomplish what you want, but commercial flooring ain't cheap. Might consider Gym Floor. !/4 "or so seamless hard rubber/vinyl. We have it in the gym at the Firehouse. Very durable. Fireman proof.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:10:41 AM EDT
[#18]
You'll need to pay, because the following are neither DIY nor residential products.
1) Armstrong Medintech seamless sheet vinyl flooring. It's the industry standard in medical and laboratory settings. Material is bacteriostatic, and the seams are heat welded - though for a kitchen that might not be an issue. Wall interface is either vinyl cover base (inexpensive, looks like ass, hard to clean) or floor material rolled up the wall and the corner welded (best moisture resistance, expense and looks depend on the installer.) Best bet would be to find a local hospital under construction, find the floor installers or their foreman, and see if you can work a side job with them using leftover material. Your color selection will be limited, but it's the only way to get it done reasonably. 2) Armstrong Medintech tiles. Same material as above, but tiles. Disadvantages are seams, the need to use vinyl cove, and more need to use floor garments to keep it good king (though one should really do the same for sheet vinyl). Advantages are much cheaper installation, including possibly advanced diy. Same sourcing options, plus might be able to buy online or at a flooring wholesaler. It's still pretty water resistant as long as you are not trying to use it in something like a shower enclosure. 3) Linoleum sheet. Yes, actual linoleum - ground cork and linseed oil. Bacteriostatic, matches your old house better. But only one or two manufacturers left and not that cheap. And sealants/treatments are mandatory. To avoid: A) Epoxy floors. If the subfloor move as much as you say, it will crack and deteriorate. You can reinforce the joists, and put a mud bed, but by the time you do that it's getting pricy. B) Wood with anything but a "bar top" finish. Dog urine will get in and stain it irretrievably. Ask me how I know. :( Eta: Damn, beat twice. Add to recommended: 4) Roppe rubber tile. The stuff with the raised dots. Bombproof, looks are... In the eye of the beholder. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:13:24 AM EDT
[#19]
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:16:20 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
sounds like you want tile. it's not nearly as hard as you think it is to lay tile. If you want it bad enough, you find a way to lay it...... |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:17:39 AM EDT
[#21]
How about cork tile?
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:17:42 AM EDT
[#22]
I thought this thread would be for cleaning an S&M dungeon
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:19:03 AM EDT
[#23]
Linoleum.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:22:16 AM EDT
[#24]
Tile. With Schluter Ditra under it. It is an uncoupling membrane that allows for movement under the tile. The tile esentially "floats" on top of the subfloor instead of being hard-attached. Cracking is virtually eliminated unless you have extremely serious structural problems.
Make sure to read the simple instructions and use the correct mortar. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:23:36 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The cheapest and easiest will be a roll of linoleum or vinyl flooring. Easy to install, won't crack, inexpensive, water sits on top (unless you punch holes in it), and cleans up easy. Pretty much this. Another possible option is something like this. I laid it in the bathrooms and so far it's held up well and is easy to clean. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:23:57 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Terrazo? Terrazo is nice, but $$$$ |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 8:27:23 AM EDT
[#27]
Line-x has a residential product.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:01:31 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Install plastic deck flooring with a quarter inch spacing between the planks. Sweep and wash the dirt into the crawl space under the house. Move when the space fills, or remove the floor every 20 years for a clean out. An advanced installation leaves just one crack along one edge of the floor, with a trough under that track. The trough has a water line plumbed to the high end so it can be flushed outside the house foundation. That's an awesome idea!
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:02:38 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Terrazo? This , it is all over Florida and meets all of your requirements |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:05:06 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I thought this thread would be for cleaning an S&M dungeon If it's chihuahua-tinkle proof, it's slave-fluid proof too!
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:15:50 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Terrazo? Maybe the first post does nail it. It wouldn't crack on me? |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:17:40 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe the first post does nail it. It wouldn't crack on me? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Terrazo? Maybe the first post does nail it. It wouldn't crack on me? Most terrazo I have seen has control joints in the form of brass rods. I would doubt it's an option in most wood framed homes though due to the weight, it would probably have to go in at 2.5 inches or more. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:23:09 PM EDT
[#33]
..... just spray bed liner on top of whatever is there and call it good.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:23:58 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Line-x has a residential product. I went to their site, their residential gallery is impressive. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:25:18 PM EDT
[#35]
We had an epoxy garage floor at one house. It was slicker than snot when wet. I mean, it was dangerously slick when wet-- almost like ice. For that reason alone, I would never have another epoxy floor unless there's some way to texture or amend the epoxy to aid traction. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:26:34 PM EDT
[#36]
Planning a murder-room?
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:27:18 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
..... just spray bed liner on top of whatever is there and call it good. Lol, don't tempt me. |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 10:41:27 PM EDT
[#38]
HD sells a Rust-Oleum garage floor finish that sounds like what you're looking for. The tan color isn't too bad really.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-EpoxyShield-1-gal-Tan-Garage-Floor-Epoxy-2-Pack-251966/202745490?N=5yc1vZbd13 |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 4:40:30 AM EDT
[#39]
This thread just has "Dead Hookers" written all over it. |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 8:16:06 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's an awesome idea! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Install plastic deck flooring with a quarter inch spacing between the planks. Sweep and wash the dirt into the crawl space under the house. Move when the space fills, or remove the floor every 20 years for a clean out. An advanced installation leaves just one crack along one edge of the floor, with a trough under that track. The trough has a water line plumbed to the high end so it can be flushed outside the house foundation. That's an awesome idea! So far it's the only realistic design option in your thread. If you want to hose it out, you're going to need a drain, so you might as well wash everything into a trough, just like you'll see in a barn. |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 11:17:00 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it's chihuahua-tinkle proof, it's slave-fluid proof too! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I thought this thread would be for cleaning an S&M dungeon If it's chihuahua-tinkle proof, it's slave-fluid proof too! If your slave is dribbling fluids unintentionally, you're doing it wrong. |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 6:48:40 PM EDT
[#42]
They DO make a plastic interlocking Garage Flooring that is a floating floor similar to Pergo but stronger and better designed for Garages.
Racedeck, it is not cheap but it does come in many colors and is tough stuff. Give it a look, I believe Costco sells or did sell a similar product. http://www.racedeck.com/residentialgarageflooring.html?crtag=value&gclid=CPvJ2cPtw8ECFbRzMgodlEgAqQ 
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Posted: 10/23/2014 6:58:55 PM EDT
[#43]
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Posted: 10/23/2014 7:05:51 PM EDT
[#44]
I thought I read the words "seamed hose", and my mind went away for a bit....
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Posted: 10/23/2014 7:14:59 PM EDT
[#45]
get some more animals to clean up after the other ones.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 8:39:56 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryThat's what I referenced by "epoxy floor" in my previous post. The subfloor needs to be absolutely stable. Otherwise the flooring will separate from the substrate, and soon will start coming up in chunks. |
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Posted: 11/9/2014 11:43:42 AM EDT
[#47]
Linoleum, supports my head gives me something to believe
An ex-girlfriend of mine raised puppys, linoleum and those pee-pee pads were
lifesavers! |
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Posted: 11/9/2014 11:49:40 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am a project manager for a construction company and we have installed weldable vinyl flooring in hospital settings such as ER's and Operating rooms. It is manufactured by Armstrong Commercial Flooring. All seams are welded with vinyl to provide a watertight seal... This. Even the kick plate is welded. If you didn't have a door, it would be a short swimming pool |
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Posted: 11/9/2014 12:05:13 PM EDT
[#49]
My plumbing is having issues, and my electrical was more than anticipated. I may not be able to change anything.
I'm thinking a big pan type thing, to put the chihuahua pads in.
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Posted: 11/9/2014 12:28:07 PM EDT
[#50]
You can also do Armstrong VCT tiles like that in schools, grocery stores, and hospitals. After you lay it it is waxed which seals the joints and makes it water proof. It is extremely cheap to lay and will move with your subfloor. I put it in my kids rooms when I built my house and everything they have spilled so far has just wiped up.
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