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Posted: 10/21/2014 7:57:34 PM EDT
[#1]
I used Behr deck over, the 10x has a very textured grippy feel.
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Posted: 10/21/2014 7:58:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Just sealed or do you want it colored like an epoxy?
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:00:09 PM EDT
[#3]
Shark grip is silica powder available at most paint stores.
I use one large bottle per 5 gallons of sealer for high gloss stamped work. Gives it sort of a sugar cookie look, makes it much safer to walk on. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:00:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just sealed or do you want it colored like an epoxy? I'm ambivalent about it being colored. I've got about 3500 sq ft to seal, so I don't want to get stupid expensive. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:00:53 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shark grip is silica powder available at most paint stores. I use one large bottle per 5 gallons of sealer for high gloss stamped work. Gives it sort of a sugar cookie look, makes it much safer to walk on. How do you apply the powder? |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:03:23 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm ambivalent about it being colored. I've got about 3500 sq ft to seal, so I don't want to get stupid expensive. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just sealed or do you want it colored like an epoxy? I'm ambivalent about it being colored. I've got about 3500 sq ft to seal, so I don't want to get stupid expensive. I would go the shark grip route then with regular cure and seal. You can get 5 gallons from most concrete suppliers or masonry suppliers. I pay about $150 per can. As far as filling the cracks, I usually don't unless it's going to be epoxied (which I won't do anymore). You can get self leveling filler from the same place you get the sealer, cut the tip small and be prepared for a sore back. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:04:36 PM EDT
[#7]
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How do you apply the powder? Open the lid and dump it in, then mix it up with a paint mixer and a drill. I made a special mixer out of threaded rod and weed whacker line that I can put right into the spout, saves having to take the whole top off the can. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:25:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Open the lid and dump it in, then mix it up with a paint mixer and a drill. I made a special mixer out of threaded rod and weed whacker line that I can put right into the spout, saves having to take the whole top off the can. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
How do you apply the powder? Open the lid and dump it in, then mix it up with a paint mixer and a drill. I made a special mixer out of threaded rod and weed whacker line that I can put right into the spout, saves having to take the whole top off the can. How much are you mixing into bucket? |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:31:28 PM EDT
[#9]
OP, if I remeber correctly, aren't you opening up a winery? If so, is this new slab going to be used in a production area? You may want to consider a quality urethane sealer if that is the case, it will offer good chemical resistance. I have seen what the acids can do to concrete in wine production areas, and it is not pretty. A skid resistant additive like shark grip can be mixed in to it as well.
I did this floor for a winery last month. It is heavier duty then what you are asking about, but it will stand up to the abuse. This floor is 2 coats of epoxy with silica sand broadcasted in with a urethane topcoat. This is a great application for wineries, may be something to consider. 
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:32:48 PM EDT
[#10]
If you must fill the control joints use SL-1. It is a self leveling urethane caulk with an expansion coefficient of 35%. As for the sealant, it all depends on what you think you are going to spill on it. In most of the machine rooms I have been in they just use the wax you use on VCT. In auto repair shops they use chemical resistant stuff.
Be careful, some of the coatings insulate and static electricity becomes a real problem. We had a production floor done with Stone Hard and the employees were afraid of the door knobs because of the lighting bolts coming off of their finger tips. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:34:07 PM EDT
[#11]
Sikaflex makes excellent joint sealants for sawcut concrete slabs.
Make sure you use a backer rod to avoid a 3 sided joint. Search their website for the product recommended for best performance in your region. For sealers I prefer a penetration type sealer but that may not work with a slip resistant additive as was mentioned above. Penetrating sealers won't de-laminate like a coating can but you may have to re-apply every few years. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:37:14 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How much are you mixing into bucket? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How do you apply the powder? Open the lid and dump it in, then mix it up with a paint mixer and a drill. I made a special mixer out of threaded rod and weed whacker line that I can put right into the spout, saves having to take the whole top off the can. How much are you mixing into bucket? All of it. When it's completely mixed it will look milky and stays in suspension for a good amount of time. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:40:05 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, if I remeber correctly, aren't you opening up a winery? If so, is this new slab going to be used in a production area? You may want to consider a quality urethane sealer if that is the case, it will offer good chemical resistance. I have seen what the acids can do to concrete in wine production areas, and it is not pretty. A skid resistant additive like shark grip can be mixed in to it as well. I did this floor for a winery last month. It is heavier duty then what you are asking about, but it will stand up to the abuse. This floor is 2 coats of epoxy with silica sand broadcasted in with a urethane topcoat. This is a great application for wineries, may be something to consider. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac247/Pdepippo/Mobile%20Uploads/FE3DC60A-CEBB-40AA-A15F-B0AD41AA7A34_zpsayunwuqs.jpg Is that the 100% solids two part epoxy? I have seen some nightmares with it, batching too much or not quick enough, dust blowing into the finish. I saw one entire bucket of the stuff start smoking like it was about to explode because it wasn't put down fast enough. I don't dare touch it after seeing that debacle. Tough as nails though, I still have some in my truck bed from like 5 years ago. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:40:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Tagged
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:42:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Just keep in mind, what you are going to park on your floor. I sealed mine, can't remember with what, but when I store my rafts and any other urathane products on it they stick. I'm talking 13 years later! I have some Marivia rafts, they can not be left on the concrete. Same with my Aire rafts. They will glue theirselve together with in a day!
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:45:48 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is that the 100% solids two part epoxy? I have seen some nightmares with it, batching too much or not quick enough, dust blowing into the finish. I saw one entire bucket of the stuff start smoking like it was about to explode because it wasn't put down fast enough. I don't dare touch it after seeing that debacle. Tough as nails though, I still have some in my truck bed from like 5 years ago. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OP, if I remeber correctly, aren't you opening up a winery? If so, is this new slab going to be used in a production area? You may want to consider a quality urethane sealer if that is the case, it will offer good chemical resistance. I have seen what the acids can do to concrete in wine production areas, and it is not pretty. A skid resistant additive like shark grip can be mixed in to it as well. I did this floor for a winery last month. It is heavier duty then what you are asking about, but it will stand up to the abuse. This floor is 2 coats of epoxy with silica sand broadcasted in with a urethane topcoat. This is a great application for wineries, may be something to consider. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac247/Pdepippo/Mobile%20Uploads/FE3DC60A-CEBB-40AA-A15F-B0AD41AA7A34_zpsayunwuqs.jpg Is that the 100% solids two part epoxy? I have seen some nightmares with it, batching too much or not quick enough, dust blowing into the finish. I saw one entire bucket of the stuff start smoking like it was about to explode because it wasn't put down fast enough. I don't dare touch it after seeing that debacle. Tough as nails though, I still have some in my truck bed from like 5 years ago. Yeah. All of the epoxies i work with for flooring applications are 100% solids. I've been doing epoxy, urethane mortar, and methyl methacrylate floors professionally for almost 10 years now. They are really easy to screw up if you don't know what you're doing. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 8:59:49 PM EDT
[#17]
For the cracks, a two part epoxy caulk gun. The nozzles are replaceable, with a little spiral contraption inside them that mixes the two parts together inside the nozzle.
I worked on the construction of a meat processing plant years ago. In parts of the plant where it would be the coldest and the wettest, IIRC, they somehow spread out an even layer of marble chips. The marble chips came in 50 pound bags. The flooring guys had these wooden blocks strapped to their feet. There were nails driven through the blocks, so only the points of the nails made contact with the floor. I am pretty sure it was an epoxy they put down first...somehow sprinkled or broadcast the marble chips into or onto the still wet epoxy. And again IIRC, they applied another layer of epoxy, over the marble chips after the first had sufficiently cured. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:00:11 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
All of it. When it's completely mixed it will look milky and stays in suspension for a good amount of time. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
How do you apply the powder? Open the lid and dump it in, then mix it up with a paint mixer and a drill. I made a special mixer out of threaded rod and weed whacker line that I can put right into the spout, saves having to take the whole top off the can. How much are you mixing into bucket? All of it. When it's completely mixed it will look milky and stays in suspension for a good amount of time. Are you just pouring it out and rolling it on? I don't think it'd go through a hand sprayer, would it? |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:04:56 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you just pouring it out and rolling it on? I don't think it'd go through a hand sprayer, would it? They make hand sprayers that work great, but they are expensive. The old school method is just to get a medium nap roller, pop the lid off the bucket then "dunk and pull". Basically just soak the roller head and pull one direction as you come off the floor, it doesn't look as nice as a sprayer though, and usually uses more. Did the guy that poured it not want to seal it for you? Or do you just want to do it yourself to save the cash? |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:08:29 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They make hand sprayers that work great, but they are expensive. The old school method is just to get a medium nap roller, pop the lid off the bucket then "dunk and pull". Basically just soak the roller head and pull one direction as you come off the floor, it doesn't look as nice as a sprayer though, and usually uses more. Did the guy that poured it not want to seal it for you? Or do you just want to do it yourself to save the cash? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Are you just pouring it out and rolling it on? I don't think it'd go through a hand sprayer, would it? They make hand sprayers that work great, but they are expensive. The old school method is just to get a medium nap roller, pop the lid off the bucket then "dunk and pull". Basically just soak the roller head and pull one direction as you come off the floor, it doesn't look as nice as a sprayer though, and usually uses more. Did the guy that poured it not want to seal it for you? Or do you just want to do it yourself to save the cash? I'm just trying to save some cash. I'm doing as much of this as I can. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:11:24 PM EDT
[#21]
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I'm just trying to save some cash. I'm doing as much of this as I can. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Are you just pouring it out and rolling it on? I don't think it'd go through a hand sprayer, would it? They make hand sprayers that work great, but they are expensive. The old school method is just to get a medium nap roller, pop the lid off the bucket then "dunk and pull". Basically just soak the roller head and pull one direction as you come off the floor, it doesn't look as nice as a sprayer though, and usually uses more. Did the guy that poured it not want to seal it for you? Or do you just want to do it yourself to save the cash? I'm just trying to save some cash. I'm doing as much of this as I can. If I was close by I would probably be willing to swing by and seal a floor that size for about $400. Including the sealer and silica. Cost a little more, but it would be done in less than an hour if it wasn't filthy in there. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:19:13 PM EDT
[#22]
What is the space being used for? Use dictates products and process.
<- Polish concrete, seal, stain, micro topping, epoxy, bead blast, and diamond grind guy. 
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:23:12 PM EDT
[#23]
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What is the space being used for? Use dictates products and process. <- Polish concrete, seal, stain, micro topping, epoxy, bead blast, and diamond grind guy. Listen to this guy. I just slap the stuff down pretty like, he makes it super special after the fact. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:26:21 PM EDT
[#24]
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What is the space being used for? Use dictates products and process. <- Polish concrete, seal, stain, micro topping, epoxy, bead blast, and diamond grind guy. It's a Farm Winery/Microbrewery. It will be wet for a couple weeks out of the year. Most of the year it's basically a warehouse. There will probably be a small forklift on it sometime in the future, but it won't be lifting anything real heavy. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:27:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Crack sealant? Just put a diamond ring on it. Itll never open again.
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:29:47 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a Farm Winery/Microbrewery. It will be wet for a couple weeks out of the year. Most of the year it's basically a warehouse. There will probably be a small forklift on it sometime in the future, but it won't be lifting anything real heavy. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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What is the space being used for? Use dictates products and process. <- Polish concrete, seal, stain, micro topping, epoxy, bead blast, and diamond grind guy. It's a Farm Winery/Microbrewery. It will be wet for a couple weeks out of the year. Most of the year it's basically a warehouse. There will probably be a small forklift on it sometime in the future, but it won't be lifting anything real heavy. Do you have any customers in there for show, or just employees for work? I'm 2 hours from Napa. I work on a quite a few wineries. I like those jobs. I'll work a deal to get a tasting with my wife, and a case of whatever she likes. 
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:32:31 PM EDT
[#27]
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Do you have any customers in there for show, or just employees for work? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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What is the space being used for? Use dictates products and process. <- Polish concrete, seal, stain, micro topping, epoxy, bead blast, and diamond grind guy. It's a Farm Winery/Microbrewery. It will be wet for a couple weeks out of the year. Most of the year it's basically a warehouse. There will probably be a small forklift on it sometime in the future, but it won't be lifting anything real heavy. Do you have any customers in there for show, or just employees for work? There will be some random tours through the facility, but nothing set. The tasting room is also concrete floor and we're planning on staining it and sealing it. |
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