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Posted: 9/16/2014 2:38:07 AM EDT
I think the .45 super sounds like an awesome woods/hiking gun.  What is the best host gun for building a super?  1911? 3rd gen S&W? XD?  What all is involved in the conversion?  Just a new barrel and springs?  This wouldn't be for shooting a lot of supers through, just a few hundred to test reliability and then I would probably only carry the supers while in the woods.  I know revolvers in .44 and .45lc also make a good choice but I kinda want an auto.  10mm is also an option but I already load for .45acp and being able to switch back to them for plinking would be nice.  I currently have an M&P in .45acp but since that's my main go to pistol for home defense and what not I think I would rather buy a new host gun.

Educate me on the .45 super
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 2:46:47 AM EDT
[#1]
Pick the gun you want to use with it and go from there.  I havn't looked into it in years, but replace recoil spring and in some guns the firing pin spring as well with higher rate springs.

Pretty good write up on it.

http://www.realguns.com/archives/020.htm
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 9:35:06 AM EDT
[#2]
Bump for day crew
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 9:41:08 AM EDT
[#3]
Glock21
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 9:42:25 AM EDT
[#4]
Thuper

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 9:43:26 AM EDT
[#5]
I believe the mark 23 can fire it unmodified.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 9:45:18 AM EDT
[#6]
1911 makes a great platform for that round but do it in a 5.5 or 6 inch barrel
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 9:50:11 AM EDT
[#7]
It NEEDS a fully supported chamber, this means a ramped barrel in a 1911.  Clark/Para or Nowlin/Wilson, the former is somewhat stronger.  Glock?  It would be best to section a sample of brass and check for support.  Case blowouts are bad enough in a 1911, dreadful in a plastic frame.  With  that said, rubber grips with steel insert panels are a good idea in a 1911, as is testing new loads with magazine removed in any platform.  Any case showing bulging is a bad sign, do no more testing with that load as it is far too hot.



Steel frame only.  No aluminum.



Super brass for super loads, always.



Yes, a stronger recoil spring is a good thing along with a spring type buffer rod.  Sure, you could use a buffer but some don't allow for full slide movement.  Whenever you replace the recoil spring with a higher rate type, a higher rate firing pin spring must be used.



For reloading, good choices are Power Pistol, Blue Dot, VV N350 and AA 9 are all good.  

       
 
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:01:36 AM EDT
[#8]
S&W 625 performance center
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:14:05 AM EDT
[#9]
third gen smith would be a good choice, they have excellent chamber support and are built well

LOLXD gonna blow the fuck up
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:34:04 AM EDT
[#10]
This thread is relevant to my interests.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:35:00 AM EDT
[#11]
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Glock21
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Sarcasm?
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:36:46 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:


Sarcasm?
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Quoted:
Glock21


Sarcasm?



Yup


I would use a 1911 or S&W 625
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:38:57 AM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 5:56:57 PM EDT
[#14]
You can also go with the square bottom firing pin stop to help slow the slide down, the firing pin stop was radiused by Saint JMB after the US Army wanted it to be easier to cycle with the hammer down.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 6:08:17 PM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
I believe the mark 23 can fire it unmodified.
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USP as well last I heard. Heavier recoil spring being the only modification.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 11:54:31 PM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:
You can also go with the square bottom firing pin stop to help slow the slide down, the firing pin stop was radiused by Saint JMB after the US Army wanted it to be easier to cycle with the hammer down.
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I'm thinking this would be an extremely minor consideration. I'm sure it would offer some academic benefit, but the smoothness of function it offers should outweigh any theoretical increase in lock time it might add. The proper springs should more than compensate for that.

Ammirite?

Thinking about doing this soon.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 11:58:44 PM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:


I'm thinking this would be an extremely minor consideration. I'm sure it would offer some academic benefit, but the smoothness of function it offers should outweigh any theoretical increase in lock time it might add. The proper springs should more than compensate for that.

Ammirite?

Thinking about doing this soon.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
You can also go with the square bottom firing pin stop to help slow the slide down, the firing pin stop was radiused by Saint JMB after the US Army wanted it to be easier to cycle with the hammer down.


I'm thinking this would be an extremely minor consideration. I'm sure it would offer some academic benefit, but the smoothness of function it offers should outweigh any theoretical increase in lock time it might add. The proper springs should more than compensate for that.

Ammirite?

Thinking about doing this soon.
It's not theoretical, it's physics. There is a significant difference in the amount of effort it takes to pull the slide back on a 1911 with a flat firing pin stop.  This effort would also absorb energy from the slide when the gun is fired.  A heavier recoil spring pushes in both directions, against the slide and against the frame.  
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 11:07:35 PM EDT
[#18]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'm thinking this would be an extremely minor consideration. I'm sure it would offer some academic benefit, but the smoothness of function it offers should outweigh any theoretical increase in lock time it might add. The proper springs should more than compensate for that.



Ammirite?



Thinking about doing this soon.
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Quoted:



Quoted:

You can also go with the square bottom firing pin stop to help slow the slide down, the firing pin stop was radiused by Saint JMB after the US Army wanted it to be easier to cycle with the hammer down.




I'm thinking this would be an extremely minor consideration. I'm sure it would offer some academic benefit, but the smoothness of function it offers should outweigh any theoretical increase in lock time it might add. The proper springs should more than compensate for that.



Ammirite?



Thinking about doing this soon.
It isn't about lock time, that is the duration from when the sear breaks to when the bullet leaves the barrel, in hammer and long striker actions, it is quite long.  In modern bolt actions, it is minimal.



The advantage of a square bottom firing pin stop is that is forces the hammer to full cock sooner, meaning LESS mechanical advantage of the slide's momentum in doing that, thereby decreasing slide velocity and battering.  You don't need a 24 pound recoil spring for full power loads, 18 to 20 pound will work.



Also, you don't need to change recoil springs to run standard  .45 ACP.  In fact, even CCI shotshells run fine in mine.  That is 140 grains of shot and wad moving at 1200 ft/sec.  My standard Super load is a 200 grain XTP moving at 1250 ft/sec.  It is a great hunting load.



 
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 11:32:25 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:



Yup


I would use a 1911 or S&W 625
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Glock21


Sarcasm?



Yup


I would use a 1911 or S&W 625


I read somewhere of a G21 used for .45 Super.
A steel frame would be a better choice.
It was ...
G21 KKM barrel. 21 or 24 lb recoil spring. Starline .45 Super brass. Work up slowly.  
Keep an eye on the frame for issues.



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