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I can see what looks like beryllium copper grease, so that tells me it's pretty new. IMHO Glocks are best with Glock parts. If you have the stock parts, put them back in.
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What they said. What type of failures are you having? Weak range ammo and Gen4's don't always get along when the recoil spring is new. Especially if it's an early Gen4 with the heavier recoil spring assembly Glock replaced with the lighter one. What numbers are on the recoil spring assembly(RSA)?
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Pretty much this. stock parts tend to be the most reliable. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I can see what looks like beryllium grease, so that tells me it's pretty new. IMHO Glocks are best with Glock parts. If you have the stock parts, put them back in. Pretty much this. stock parts tend to be the most reliable. 3x |
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I'd be wary of a "trigger job" done by some nobody. You don't really know for sure what's been done.
I'd be inclined to replace everything with factory parts and not look back. Is "FTF" supposed to mean "Failure To Feed" or "Failure To Fire"? If it's failure to feed, it could be a bad magazine (replace the whole mag) or you may not have the current recoil spring assembly. If it's failure to fire, the previous owner may have monkeyed with the striker spring. Replace it. |
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If that is the factory copper grease stuff, I would thoroughly clean the pistol and reoil it with your preferred lubricant. My experience with Glocks is that this initial step will seemingly make it operate more smoothly.
The trigger job is likely not an issue, but I personally like the stock components - at least we know these are reliable. It is sorta difficult to trust someone else's trigger job. |
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I think all the original parts are included with the aftermarket packages. So I will try and get part numbers when I am back home tonight.
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Your problem is the spring kit -- never put a reduced-power firing pin (striker) spring in a Glock if you want reliable ignition.
You need to install a factory firing pin spring. It will add about 1/2 pound to the trigger pull weight, but will take you back to the reliability you want/need. |
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First change the ammo and mag. If it still does it, put the Glock parts back in. Lube it. Shoot a few hundred rounds to break it in, and see if it clears up.
If you want to mod the gun, add the parts back in one by one and shoot it to see if any one is causing the issues. I have stock and modified Glocks. All of them run great when lubed. I like Ghost connectors. |
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I can see what looks like beryllium copper grease, so that tells me it's pretty new. IMHO Glocks are best with Glock parts. If you have the stock parts, put them back in. Yep, take that shit out. No, just add a bit of lube. the copper anti-seize prevents galling on the rails during break-in. |
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I have a 19 and 21SF. Both have ghost connectors and night sights. Both have ran 100% flawless with probably @ 1000 rounds through each one. Both are Gen 3 BTW.
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I'm no expert, but I have never had a FTF in my 19 in over 10k rounds. All kinds of ammo, steel and aluminum as well. Can't tell about the trigger, cause mine is a gen3. Internals look clean though.
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Looks pretty much brand new to me. I'd take the advice above and go back to factory parts. Who knows what kind of Bubba trigger job was done. Use factory mags too.
I just installed a Bill Springfield trigger on an AR and switched to another AR as my go to HD AR until I can verify the new trigger is reliable. Just FYI, as I'd want to be sure my gun is reliable before I rely on it. I'm sure it will be fine, as he does great work, but I want to verify. |
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Your problem is the spring kit -- never put a reduced-power firing pin (striker) spring in a Glock if you want reliable ignition. You need to install a factory firing pin spring. It will add about 1/2 pound to the trigger pull weight, but will take you back to the reliability you want/need. View Quote I'd start with this. I wouldn't worry about the anti seize grease. |
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I can see what looks like beryllium grease, so that tells me it's pretty new. IMHO Glocks are best with Glock parts. If you have the stock parts, put them back in. Pretty much this. stock parts tend to be the most reliable. 3x x4 if it's got the gold grease, it's likely hardly fired if at all. How does the finish look, does it have any evidence of the action being used around the breech/locking lugs? If it's not a stock Glock part, I'd ditch it. |
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You have a gen4, what is their to dremmel (short of making the undercut at the triggerguard slightly bigger) ? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Dremel? Yes You have a gen4, what is their to dremmel (short of making the undercut at the triggerguard slightly bigger) ? Making the undercut at the triggerguard bigger so my fat middle finger can fit underneath it more comfortable lol. So what vendors the best for glock parts? |
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Making the undercut at the triggerguard bigger so my fat middle finger can fit underneath it more comfortable lol. So what vendors the best for glock parts? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Dremel? Yes You have a gen4, what is their to dremmel (short of making the undercut at the triggerguard slightly bigger) ? Making the undercut at the triggerguard bigger so my fat middle finger can fit underneath it more comfortable lol. So what vendors the best for glock parts? Ok...just making sure you weren't fixing to go full retard with the dremmel. I make the undercut slightly bigger also. The best vendor for Glock parts is Glock. There isn't much need for crazy aftermarket parts IMO. I use the Glock extended slide catch and Trijicon HD night sights. Short of that the Gen4s don't really need any other mods. Seriously, don't monkey with it. |
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Glocks can run fine with reduced power striker springs. I run 4lb springs in my G17 and have never had a light strike with reloads or factory.
I have run a 2lb striker spring, without the extended striker, in my G35 and have not had a ftf or light strike yet. These are both competition guns and I would not run those springs for a carry gun, if I could in fact carry. |
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Anybody can put grease on some parts to make it "look new" . And shit...have glocks since 94, the fuck is this bullshit break in period???
Use stock parts only. |
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I have the Zev competition kit in my gen 4 23. With the heavier of the two striker springs. It has been perfect through a couple thousand rounds so far. And it's my work/carry gun.
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Quoted: Your problem is the spring kit -- never put a reduced-power firing pin (striker) spring in a Glock if you want reliable ignition. You need to install a factory firing pin spring. It will add about 1/2 pound to the trigger pull weight, but will take you back to the reliability you want/need. View Quote Yup. I'd try it with factory springs. I'd probably keep the 3.5# connector unless you still have issues.
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View Quote Please define FTF. Fail to fire? Fail to feed? It sounds like you have the correct recoil spring already. |
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We can't know unless you define FTF. Fail to fire? Fail to feed? Sorry if I missed you post it. Failure to feed, exactly like this. http://i47.tinypic.com/210ztkx.png needs more stock recoil spring. |
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We can't know unless you define FTF. Fail to fire? Fail to feed? Sorry if I missed you post it. Failure to feed, exactly like this. http://i47.tinypic.com/210ztkx.png needs more stock recoil spring. Bother replacing the guide rod? Or just recoil spring? Here is what is in there now. |
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We can't know unless you define FTF. Fail to fire? Fail to feed? Sorry if I missed you post it. Failure to feed, exactly like this. http://i47.tinypic.com/210ztkx.png Then it's got nothing to do with striker springs. |
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I'd replace the whole guide-rod/recoil spring with the proper thing from your favorite vender. As I remember, some of the early Gen-4's had some issue with them...IIRC
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Gen4 9mm Glocks have issues with ejection. (This is the same issue that was giving guys the infamous brass to face.)
I'm not sure if Glock has finally admitted to this problem. I know guys were sending their pistols back to Glock and the issues were never resolved. Some guys were chasing their tails trying to fix this. Replacing the ejector with a Gen4 .40 ejector, replacing the extractor, replacing the extractor plunger assembly. Apex finally came out with their "failure resistant extractor". I hadn't really read up on how well they work. |
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Well I am going to try some more ammo and a new mag tomorrow.
Unfortunately I am in MA so I have to buy preban 15 round mags @ 60 a piece. |
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Night sights are the only upgrade needed for a Glock. Once you start monkeying around with the internals is when the trouble starts.
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I can see what looks like beryllium grease, so that tells me it's pretty new. IMHO Glocks are best with Glock parts. If you have the stock parts, put them back in. Pretty much this. stock parts tend to be the most reliable. 3x I'm voting for this also |
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Pretty much this. stock parts tend to be the most reliable. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I can see what looks like beryllium grease, so that tells me it's pretty new. IMHO Glocks are best with Glock parts. If you have the stock parts, put them back in. Pretty much this. stock parts tend to be the most reliable. Yet another +1 to this. |
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I'd be wary of a "trigger job" done by some nobody. You don't really know for sure what's been done. I'd be inclined to replace everything with factory parts and not look back. Is "FTF" supposed to mean "Failure To Feed" or "Failure To Fire"? If it's failure to feed, it could be a bad magazine (replace the whole mag) or you may not have the current recoil spring assembly. If it's failure to fire, the previous owner may have monkeyed with the striker spring. Replace it. View Quote I have never seen FTF mean "Fail to Fire" in any context. |
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I have never seen FTF mean "Fail to Fire" in any context. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I'd be wary of a "trigger job" done by some nobody. You don't really know for sure what's been done. I'd be inclined to replace everything with factory parts and not look back. Is "FTF" supposed to mean "Failure To Feed" or "Failure To Fire"? If it's failure to feed, it could be a bad magazine (replace the whole mag) or you may not have the current recoil spring assembly. If it's failure to fire, the previous owner may have monkeyed with the striker spring. Replace it. I have never seen FTF mean "Fail to Fire" in any context. I have had fail to fire from a light striker spring. Went back to stock and it has been flawless. Lesson learned over the years, you can replace any spring in a Glock you want except the striker spring, don't mess with that, ever. So far as feeding, use a pissed off death grip, different mag and ammo, and shoot the heck out of it. Then get back to us. |
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Spring kits lighten the firing pin spring to give better trigger feel. The downside is reduced reliability and FTF problems . It is a common problem . The grease is not a definite that the gun is low mileage . I have a can of the stuff and will sometimes add it to guns I service .
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Spring kits lighten the firing pin spring to give better trigger feel. The downside is reduced reliability and FTF problems . It is a common problem . The grease is not a definite that the gun is low mileage . I have a can of the stuff and will sometimes add it to guns I service . View Quote So just buy a stock spring kit and swap it out? |
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