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Posted: 7/21/2014 10:04:33 AM EDT
Been jonesin' for a Marlin 336 in thutty-thutty for years.  A while back I started this thread asking what people knew about 'em, and the response was pretty universally positive.  Good guns.

Wanted one without the stupid, ugly, unnecessary cross-receiver safety; Marlin made them for the better part of a century without them, and people managed not to kill each other.  Function-wise it doesn't matter, of course, but I just feel it was a victory for the lawyers, rather than the clamor of the users that one be added.  Just wanted one that harkened back to better, pre-lawyer days, with lawn darts, firecrackers, and no helmet or seat belt laws.

Also wanted the full barrel band so I could add one of these bad boys:



It comes with one of those tube-clamp QD mounts, but I want the stronger mount that completely surrounds the barrel & fore-end.

Problem was, I couldn't really justify it.    Already have two thutty-thutty levers, along with several other rifles, so there was no burning need for another gun.

However, had an event that called for a present for myself (OPSEC prevents me being specific), sooooooo off to GB I did scamper.  For $300 + $15 S&H + FFL fees, this shall soon reside in my sweating, grubby fingers:













Yay me!  Just a good, solid shooter, nothing special, just what I wanted.  Already has the front sight hood, and the bit of rust means I won't have to baby it.  Nice patina, really.

YAY ME!!!
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 10:07:50 AM EDT
[#1]
Good for you!

I hope you enjoy it in good health.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 10:13:47 AM EDT
[#2]
Fyi, subtract the 1st two numbers of the serial from 100, and you'll know the mfg date.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 12:34:07 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
Fyi, subtract the 1st two numbers of the serial from 100, and you'll know the mfg date.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
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Thanks, but are you sure about that?  My gun was made around 1970, and the first two are 69.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 12:40:49 PM EDT
[#4]
Those spots of rust shouldnt be too hatefull to remove OP. Get some scotchbrite and breakfree CLP, soak the scotchbrite and gently polish to remove. Some off it looks like you may have some mild pitting but that adds character. You may or may not want to get a cold blue pen to touch up the finish, just make sure to always keep that coated to keep from rusting again.

Nice rifle BTW
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 5:26:51 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Those spots of rust shouldnt be too hatefull to remove OP. Get some scotchbrite and breakfree CLP, soak the scotchbrite and gently polish to remove. Some off it looks like you may have some mild pitting but that adds character. You may or may not want to get a cold blue pen to touch up the finish, just make sure to always keep that coated to keep from rusting again.

Nice rifle BTW
View Quote


Thank you.  Yep, gonna spend some quality time with 0000 steel wool & Hoppe's when she gets here, making all that mean ol' rust go away.  And roger the pitting adding character.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 5:34:50 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:


Thanks, but are you sure about that?  My gun was made around 1970, and the first two are 69.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Fyi, subtract the 1st two numbers of the serial from 100, and you'll know the mfg date.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


Thanks, but are you sure about that?  My gun was made around 1970, and the first two are 69.

your new rifle was made in '69. From 1969 through 1972 the first two digits of the ser# are the year of manufacture, prior to '69 Marlin used a letter date code. From '73 on you subtract the first two numbers from 100 to get the year built.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 5:42:00 PM EDT
[#7]
Nice grab on a no safety Marlin . I love mine
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:04:19 PM EDT
[#8]
I've got a heirloom 1955 vintage iron sighted 336C (straight stock) in .35 Rem. My Mom bought it for Dad just after I was born for Christmas in 1955.

Lord only knows how many deer the old-man and myself killed with it. I killed my first deer with it.

It's never been dinked-with as in scoped or sling swivels installed. The straight stock also shaves around .25# off the weight compared to the pistol gripped stocks.

For those looking for a vintage 336 look for a blued trigger,no front sight ramp/hood, and real black walnut stock. Marlin started with the gold trigger in 1959.


Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:11:04 PM EDT
[#9]
And it doesn't have the guppy belly.


I hate the guppy belly.  I killed my first deer with a 336.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:13:03 PM EDT
[#10]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:





your new rifle was made in '69. From 1969 through 1972 the first two digits of the ser# are the year of manufacture, prior to '69 Marlin used a letter date code. From '73 on you subtract the first two numbers from 100 to get the year built.
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Quoted:



Quoted:



Quoted:

Fyi, subtract the 1st two numbers of the serial from 100, and you'll know the mfg date.



Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile




Thanks, but are you sure about that? My gun was made around 1970, and the first two are 69.


your new rifle was made in '69. From 1969 through 1972 the first two digits of the ser# are the year of manufacture, prior to '69 Marlin used a letter date code. From '73 on you subtract the first two numbers from 100 to get the year built.


My bad, I thought the switch was at least a decade earlier than that!

Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:15:18 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Thank you.  Yep, gonna spend some quality time with 0000 steel wool & Hoppe's when she gets here, making all that mean ol' rust go away.  And roger the pitting adding character.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Those spots of rust shouldnt be too hatefull to remove OP. Get some scotchbrite and breakfree CLP, soak the scotchbrite and gently polish to remove. Some off it looks like you may have some mild pitting but that adds character. You may or may not want to get a cold blue pen to touch up the finish, just make sure to always keep that coated to keep from rusting again.

Nice rifle BTW


Thank you.  Yep, gonna spend some quality time with 0000 steel wool & Hoppe's when she gets here, making all that mean ol' rust go away.  And roger the pitting adding character.



Steel wool will certainly work but at least for me seems to be a little more aggressive. I inherited some guns when my dad passed away and a couple had spots of rust. Not much but enough that it bugged the shit out of me. I couldnt find the steel wool so I tried some scotchbrite and was very happy with the results. I keep them oiled up with CLP and at some point plan to get a blue pen to touch them up but the main thing was to stop the rust and keep it from getting worse.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:18:14 PM EDT
[#12]
You bought a fine rifle.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:24:52 PM EDT
[#13]
Steel wool is a bit too abrasive. Find some copper wool at Ace Hardware.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:32:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Nice rifle.  I picked up an old 336 in .35 Rem a couple of years ago from a friend of mine.  The spring in the magazine tube was frigged up, and I just got it fixed.  Hopefully I can shoot it this weekend finally.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:33:49 PM EDT
[#15]
Looks pretty nice!
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 6:40:31 PM EDT
[#16]
Can you explain for me how a gun followed you home from gunbrokers? I mean it sounds near impossible.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 7:26:29 PM EDT
[#17]
Top one is how you address the rust issue on a 336...
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 10:27:52 AM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:
Can you explain for me how a gun followed you home from gunbrokers? I mean it sounds near impossible.
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It did!  I was paging thru GB, minding my own business, when bam!  This jumped into my cart!

And it's been bugging me: WTF is that in your avatar?  Looks like a burlap bag with eyes.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 10:29:27 AM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Steel wool will certainly work but at least for me seems to be a little more aggressive. I inherited some guns when my dad passed away and a couple had spots of rust. Not much but enough that it bugged the shit out of me. I couldnt find the steel wool so I tried some scotchbrite and was very happy with the results. I keep them oiled up with CLP and at some point plan to get a blue pen to touch them up but the main thing was to stop the rust and keep it from getting worse.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Those spots of rust shouldnt be too hatefull to remove OP. Get some scotchbrite and breakfree CLP, soak the scotchbrite and gently polish to remove. Some off it looks like you may have some mild pitting but that adds character. You may or may not want to get a cold blue pen to touch up the finish, just make sure to always keep that coated to keep from rusting again.

Nice rifle BTW


Thank you.  Yep, gonna spend some quality time with 0000 steel wool & Hoppe's when she gets here, making all that mean ol' rust go away.  And roger the pitting adding character.



Steel wool will certainly work but at least for me seems to be a little more aggressive. I inherited some guns when my dad passed away and a couple had spots of rust. Not much but enough that it bugged the shit out of me. I couldnt find the steel wool so I tried some scotchbrite and was very happy with the results. I keep them oiled up with CLP and at some point plan to get a blue pen to touch them up but the main thing was to stop the rust and keep it from getting worse.


Hmmm, new gun guy trick to try out.  Might try that on the sight hood rust.  If I don't like the result, that's easily replaceable.
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