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Posted: 7/11/2014 10:47:00 PM EDT
So, awhile back I made a thread about 3D printing warhammer stuff. Old thread: part 1 At the time, I was limited to models that other people had made. I decided to start making them on my own. I figured I'd share what I've made since then.
You'll have to excuse any shit paint jobs, cuz well, I cant paint worth a shit. If it's still a CG image, it's just because I haven't printed it out yet. Unlike half the shit on Thingiverse, I make sure my stuff is printable before sharing it. My favorite prints together: 
Space Marines Landraider: 
landspeeder: 
landspeeder conversion: 
Techmarine: 
Thunderfire Cannon: 
Caestus Assault Ram: - This is printed out, but my buddy is painting it. 
Bikers: I actually have tons of these printed, didnt feel like pulling them out for a picture though 
Imperial Guard Valkerye: 
Basilisk: 
Chimera: 
Manticore: 
Taurox: 
Baneblade: It's printing now... Orks Orks: 
Deffrolla 
Dakka Turrets 
Loota kit - basicly a "kit" that will let you loot anything 
Looted Imperial Guard Sentinal: 
Grot Tanks - pictured with fluttershy color scheme assault marine for scale and fuck you 
If you do want to print any of that stuff, here's the link to everything of mine on thingiverse:fail and aids |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 1:31:24 PM EDT
[#1]
This one is ready to go as well. There is actually more detail to it than show in that image, its just that's the only picture where I had all the parts together. I typically keep everything together at first to make sure the overall scale is correct, then I break it apart and add more detail to each printable section.
Actually, this would already be printed if it wasnt for my shit UBIS extruder/hotend... But that's a different story. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 1:33:09 PM EDT
[#2]
So are you saving vast amounts of money making that stuff yourself?
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Posted: 7/12/2014 1:36:14 PM EDT
[#3]
that is pure awesome.
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Posted: 7/12/2014 1:38:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So are you saving vast amounts of money making that stuff yourself? I do it mainly because I think it's neat to do it. I actually started so I could make costume parts better, because Halloween is best holiday. I've done alot of 40k stuff because if I can make that stuff, which has lots of detail, I can make whatever costume part with ease. But in terms of money? Hell yes. I've printed out stuff, that had I bought it from the local hobby/comic shop it would have probably cost me about 5 grand now. Instead it's only been about one or two Benjamins. Crazy cheaper. My buddy is painting up the Ork stuff right now, he's got crazy good model painting skills. I'm expecting them to look incredible once he's done, Ill post them up soon as he finishes. I do kinda have to poke him with a stick though, cuz he gets distracted. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 1:53:02 PM EDT
[#5]
Good deal. GW war gaming used to be a hobby of mine in high school. Both WH and WH 40k. I was the orc/goblin army for both, and had pretty much my entire armies painted.
I got kind of disgusted and quit because GW kept making new stuff for Marines, Eldar, pretty much everyone BUT orks for 2+ years. Also realizing spending 6-8 hours during a battle represented maybe a minute or two of game time. Too expensive in both time and money. I figured it'd be a great computer war game though.
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Posted: 7/12/2014 1:57:43 PM EDT
[#6]
I need to finish some Gundam models this summer. Have some Master Grade sitting around
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Posted: 7/12/2014 2:05:51 PM EDT
[#7]
That's pretty sweet.
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Posted: 7/12/2014 2:14:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Don't forget to make some terrain.
I absolutely hated modeling terrain, it always just looked like random shit I'd glued together and then painted. 
Kharn |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 2:19:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This one is ready to go as well. There is actually more detail to it than show in that image, its just that's the only picture where I had all the parts together. I typically keep everything together at first to make sure the overall scale is correct, then I break it apart and add more detail to each printable section. http://s18.postimg.org/cvwrjdhqx/baneblade.png Actually, this would already be printed if it wasnt for my shit UBIS extruder/hotend... But that's a different story. I can't wait to see that baneblade. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 4:10:52 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't forget to make some terrain. I absolutely hated modeling terrain, it always just looked like random shit I'd glued together and then painted.
Kharn I've actually already got terrain, didnt post because it not as "neat" as the vehicles. Ruins, bunkers, walls, barricades, sandbags, etc. Terrain is super easy. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 4:15:19 PM EDT
[#11]
Kinda wanna hook my xb360 up now and play some space marine
 Smash some orc face.
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Posted: 7/12/2014 6:22:21 PM EDT
[#12]
what are you smoothing out all the ridges with? dremmel?
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Posted: 7/12/2014 7:00:10 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
what are you smoothing out all the ridges with? dremmel? Nothing in those pics has been smoothed. However if I do need to trim aberrant material or support material, I use an exacto. If I was printing in ABS i would do acetone vapor smoothing, which has awesome smoothing results. After I start printing in ABS ill vapor bath just about everything. The plastic I have been using is PLA, I could smooth it with sandpaper if I wanted. A dremel would work as well. But I dont bother. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 7:04:38 PM EDT
[#14]
how long does it/ would it take to sand/smooth the pieces down? looks like an hour+ job.
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Posted: 7/12/2014 7:25:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
how long does it/ would it take to sand/smooth the pieces down? looks like an hour+ job. No idea, never tried. An ABS vapor bath i believe is only 15 minutes or so? Which would make the part perfectly smooth. Simply priming and painting a part smooths it out a good deal. |
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Posted: 7/13/2014 5:05:08 PM EDT
[#16]
So interesting tidbit I found out about the other week and decided to try, looks like it's working as well...
I've been having extruder problems, the filament has been jamming up. I first didt temperature testing to make sure it wasnt just that I didnt have the temp right, then I added extra cooling above the extruder, tried different extruder feed parts, etc. On single part prints, I'm typically okay. But anything with lots of parts, or complex parts that require retraction over perimeters I was having problems. Even after fixing/adjusting all the above, it was still having issues. When clearing the jam, it looked as though the filament was simply being stressed (too much flexing gives a certain look in PLA) from retractions and feeds, which would logically occur if their is too much friction in the feed tube. I think my PTFE liner is simply worn out after printing a dozen rolls or so. I read that folks with pure metal hotends were oiling their filament. Even the smoothest polished metal will have way more friction than a PTFE liner. So they run the filament through a container with a sponge that has extra virgin olive oil on it. I gave it a shot and loaded up a part with a buttload of retractions/perimeters. Printed perfect. Now I'll see if I cant get that Baneblade printed out! |
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Posted: 7/13/2014 5:09:30 PM EDT
[#17]
I'd look at doing some of the out of print stuff like Warhammer Quest. Looks like the detail is ok for vehicles but still not there for individual infantry.
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Posted: 7/13/2014 5:12:17 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This one is ready to go as well. There is actually more detail to it than show in that image, its just that's the only picture where I had all the parts together. I typically keep everything together at first to make sure the overall scale is correct, then I break it apart and add more detail to each printable section. http://s18.postimg.org/cvwrjdhqx/baneblade.png Actually, this would already be printed if it wasnt for my shit UBIS extruder/hotend... But that's a different story. That piece, for example; How long will it take to print? |
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Posted: 7/13/2014 5:43:22 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd look at doing some of the out of print stuff like Warhammer Quest. Looks like the detail is ok for vehicles but still not there for individual infantry. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd look at doing some of the out of print stuff like Warhammer Quest. Looks like the detail is ok for vehicles but still not there for individual infantry. The detail can be there if I wanted. I typically print with a 0.40 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.25 mm. For vehicles, walkers, etc that's plenty. When painted the infantry sized stuff is passable. As in across the table you're not gonna know. However if I really wanted to print some detail peices, I've got a 0.15mm nozzle and would print at 0.05mm layer height. Problem with that, is a print will take forever. I should knock out acouple "glamour" shots like that. Pieces are all but identical with those settings. I just dont care that much about tactical marines or nobs enough to do that. They detail very easily could be there, I'm just not gonna wait 3 times as long for it to print. Maybe if I could paint worth a crap, that would also play into it. As it is, I can't. So those detailed pieces would just get hamfisted paint jobs 
How long for the baneblade print? Ugh... a long time. I just kicked off the print for the center section, that's gonna take about 5.5 hours. The tracks sides are about 4 hours each. The turret and the kinda bigger part under the turret are an hour each. Plate full of all the extra guns, exhaust, smaller turrets, etc will run 2-3 hours. So I'm guessing 18-20 hours for that big SOB. A leman russ takes about 6 hours for everything, same with Rhinos and Chimeras. A land raider is around 10 hours. The Baneblade is stupid big so it's gonna take awhile. A full plate of marines, about a dozen of them with all parts/accessories, takes about 2 hours. |
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Posted: 7/14/2014 10:37:47 PM EDT
[#20]
So very interesting side effect of lubing the PLA with virgin olive oil, it smells like im cooking/deep frying something instead of printing it.
The baneblade print is going to take awhile. I made some changes to the sides/treads. Pushed each side up to an 8 hour print. 
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Posted: 7/18/2014 2:44:22 PM EDT
[#21]
man, that was a long print. had to do acouple revisions and reprints too. I still need to make a revision or two, but here's some good enough pictures for the time being.
I also made the variant "top" for the tanks like the banehammer, stormlord, etc. Simply haven't printed out another chassis to do one of those yet. 
The Russ is actually abit too big. That particual print is ~5% bigger than it should have been. Landraider and Baneblade are scaled correctly though. 
I changed the rear to be beefier, because the "stock" Baneblade rear just looks wussy for a big tank like that. 
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Posted: 7/18/2014 2:52:28 PM EDT
[#22]
Very interesting.
Been doing research on investing in a similar setup for costuming/props, but the fear of huge initial investment and vapor baths to make things look decent has been keeping me from taking the leap. Your work looks pretty damn snazzy. Is your printer open for hire? |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:00:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Very interesting. Been doing research on investing in a similar setup for costuming/props, but the fear of huge initial investment and vapor baths to make things look decent has been keeping me from taking the leap. Your work looks pretty damn snazzy. Is your printer open for hire? Something to keep in mind, these are all very close shots and none of them have been printed at "high res." The only way you're going to be seeing the layer lines is if you hold it up to your face. That's why I like to include the Russ in the various shots. That's a printed model, but painted up. You cant see any print lines. My onus for getting into this was costuming/props and I can tell you without a doubt the capability is more than there. Sanding PLA is very easy to do and very quick, I've done it on non-warhammer parts plenty of times. An alternative to the acetone vapor bath with ABS, is just put some on a cotton ball and "polish" the piece. For example, if you were gonna print out an Ironman or Halo helmet, just hit it with a light sand - then all the rest is paint. A nice automotive paint with a clear coat on top, that helmet is going to look amazing. |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:01:34 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I read that folks with pure metal hotends were oiling their filament. Even the smoothest polished metal will have way more friction than a PTFE liner. So they run the filament through a container with a sponge that has extra virgin olive oil on it. I gave it a shot and loaded up a part with a buttload of retractions/perimeters. Printed perfect. You need the new E3Dv6 all metal hotend. I left the PTFE liner in and also did the oil "seasoning". Been running non-stop for two weeks :-) |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:02:39 PM EDT
[#25]
OP, do you do any work for order? I have a new product I'm working on and am looking at having a sample made. I have the model in the appropriate print formats. The custom printing service online quoted ~$150 for each sample piece.
ETA - I'm not looking for free work or a handout. I also wouldn't need any fine finishing work as I can do that on my end. If the samples go well, I'm looking at buying a makerbot to get more samples in use. |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:04:24 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You need the new E3Dv6 all metal hotend. I left the PTFE liner in and also did the oil "seasoning". Been running non-stop for two weeks :-) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I read that folks with pure metal hotends were oiling their filament. Even the smoothest polished metal will have way more friction than a PTFE liner. So they run the filament through a container with a sponge that has extra virgin olive oil on it. I gave it a shot and loaded up a part with a buttload of retractions/perimeters. Printed perfect. You need the new E3Dv6 all metal hotend. I left the PTFE liner in and also did the oil "seasoning". Been running non-stop for two weeks :-) My new printer, which I'm a lazy sack of crap and still havent finished putting together, has a hexagon hotend. I've been loving the oil seasoning though, my extruder stepper isnt even heating up anymore, it's so nice and smooth in there. |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:08:45 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Something to keep in mind, these are all very close shots and none of them have been printed at "high res." The only way you're going to be seeing the layer lines is if you hold it up to your face. That's why I like to include the Russ in the various shots. That's a printed model, but painted up. You cant see any print lines. My onus for getting into this was costuming/props and I can tell you without a doubt the capability is more than there. Sanding PLA is very easy to do and very quick, I've done it on non-warhammer parts plenty of times. An alternative to the acetone vapor bath with ABS, is just put some on a cotton ball and "polish" the piece. For example, if you were gonna print out an Ironman or Halo helmet, just hit it with a light sand - then all the rest is paint. A nice automotive paint with a clear coat on top, that helmet is going to look amazing. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Very interesting. Been doing research on investing in a similar setup for costuming/props, but the fear of huge initial investment and vapor baths to make things look decent has been keeping me from taking the leap. Your work looks pretty damn snazzy. Is your printer open for hire? Something to keep in mind, these are all very close shots and none of them have been printed at "high res." The only way you're going to be seeing the layer lines is if you hold it up to your face. That's why I like to include the Russ in the various shots. That's a printed model, but painted up. You cant see any print lines. My onus for getting into this was costuming/props and I can tell you without a doubt the capability is more than there. Sanding PLA is very easy to do and very quick, I've done it on non-warhammer parts plenty of times. An alternative to the acetone vapor bath with ABS, is just put some on a cotton ball and "polish" the piece. For example, if you were gonna print out an Ironman or Halo helmet, just hit it with a light sand - then all the rest is paint. A nice automotive paint with a clear coat on top, that helmet is going to look amazing. I'm even more intrigued. I'll hop into Part 1 of this thread for more searching. Though you should probably expect a bit of IM harassment as to the make/model/location I can find more info on this stuff.
Thank you very much for sharing. |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:14:55 PM EDT
[#28]
Also try to find the big 3D printing thread in GD as well. Unfortunately the main folks involved in it havent really posted anything in a long time and it kinda died out. So it might take a google search -> ar15.com:"3d printing" or something along those lines for syntax. Lots of good info in there nonetheless.
In that thread I'm like "i think I might try printing some warhammer stuff."
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:16:00 PM EDT
[#29]
Ho Lee Fuk!!
Nice. I've played pretty much every 40k army at some point or other. I sold and traded away all my GW stuff. Their prices were just getting crazy. I still have some Warmachine stuff laying around the house but I just dont have time to paint or play anymore. |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 3:50:31 PM EDT
[#30]
Cool!
whats the Dims on the model? look like up close shots.. |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 4:22:55 PM EDT
[#31]
22cm long, 18cm wide, 7.5cm tall. It's a big SOB. I can take a picture of it with various guns, as I think that's a scale most of us on this board are abit better with.
I havent uploaded it yet to thingiverse, as I need to fix some problem print areas 1st. It will be up sometime this weekend though. |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 12:19:31 AM EDT
[#32]
Hey, this looks like the Buk SA-11 system that shot down MH17  |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 1:26:38 PM EDT
[#33]
Most imperial guard and space marine stuff is based heavily on real life armor.
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Posted: 7/22/2014 9:48:05 PM EDT
[#34]
If you want to print the baneblade, here it is: baneblade I put the files up.
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Posted: 7/22/2014 9:50:48 PM EDT
[#35]
You mentioned you started 3d printing to improve your prop making, got any pics of your other projects?
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Posted: 7/22/2014 9:54:31 PM EDT
[#36]
i want to get into printing my own miniatures. i'm very interested in SLA printers. They seem to be able to produce very hires components.
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Posted: 7/25/2014 5:34:15 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You mentioned you started 3d printing to improve your prop making, got any pics of your other projects? Unfortunately no. I've given them all to the people who wanted them. Acouple lightsabers, some thermal detonators, beltbuckle for a deadpool costume, etc etc. Whenever I start printing the "big" costume, I'll post pics. But I need the gf to figure out what exactly it is that she wants first
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Posted: 8/6/2014 11:10:38 PM EDT
[#38]
So I finally got around to finishing my 2nd printer. Was kinda busy lately, plus I was making mods to it along the way during build. All the stuff I knew I would need to do based on my experiences with my other printer.
Holy fucking jesus this isnt even in the same damn league as my first printer. I would compare it to thinking you're hot shit playing airsoft, then experiencing a select fire M4 out on the range. If you're thinking of getting a printer, get a vslot railed style prusa I3. This thing is so much better. |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:24:21 PM EDT
[#39]
The Baneblade variants are almost finished
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:34:30 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I finally got around to finishing my 2nd printer. Was kinda busy lately, plus I was making mods to it along the way during build. All the stuff I knew I would need to do based on my experiences with my other printer. Holy fucking jesus this isnt even in the same damn league as my first printer. I would compare it to thinking you're hot shit playing airsoft, then experiencing a select fire M4 out on the range. If you're thinking of getting a printer, get a vslot railed style prusa I3. This thing is so much better. no more banding? what were you using before? |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:37:24 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good deal. GW war gaming used to be a hobby of mine in high school. Both WH and WH 40k. I was the orc/goblin army for both, and had pretty much my entire armies painted. I got kind of disgusted and quit because GW kept making new stuff for Marines, Eldar, pretty much everyone BUT orks for 2+ years. Also realizing spending 6-8 hours during a battle represented maybe a minute or two of game time. Too expensive in both time and money. I figured it'd be a great computer war game though. They tried that and it famously crashed and burned. GW actually came to my company to off their IP for us to make another game on. We turned them down as we want to make original content and not fluff some other company. |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:43:40 PM EDT
[#42]
I got the banding "kinda" in control using: http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/ it was on a heavily modified Printrbot Simple. The problem is that the Z feed rod is 1/4-16 Acme, so putting in mm Z stepping heights doesnt translate exactly right. I also swapped to a hard coupler between the Z stepper and the rod. It helped, using the calc and the hard mount, but it didnt completely fix the problem. I think it's an inherent flaw of a gantry system, along with limited speed and accuracy from moving all that unsupported mass on what is essentially a moment arm. I was able to mitigate it, not eliminate it. However, we're talking something that is essentially a cosmetic issue that you only see close up. If I was using ABS and vaporing, it would be a non-issue.
I havent seen any banding with the Prusa style I have now. Plus its LIGHTNING fast. I can finish parts literately hours faster. Such smoothness, much fast, so wow!
What would you recommend I build with my buttloads of steppers and smooth rod and linear bearings? I could easily do a linear rod Prusa, but I'd like to try some other alternates just to see. Just about the only thing I would need is a board and an a hotend. Well.... Id have to reorganize my "print room" again. |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:50:18 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I got the banding "kinda" in control using: http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/ it was on a heavily modified Printrbot Simple. The problem is that the Z feed rod is 1/4-16 Acme, so putting in mm Z stepping heights doesnt translate exactly right. I also swapped to a hard coupler between the Z stepper and the rod. It helped, using the calc and the hard mount, but it didnt completely fix the problem. I think it's an inherent flaw of a gantry system, along with limited speed and accuracy from moving all that unsupported mass on what is essentially a moment arm. I was able to mitigate it, not eliminate it. However, we're talking something that is essentially a cosmetic issue that you only see close up. If I was using ABS and vaporing, it would be a non-issue. I havent seen any banding with the Prusa style I have now. Plus its LIGHTNING fast. I can finish parts literately hours faster. Such smoothness, much fast, so wow!
What would you recommend I build with my buttloads of steppers and smooth rod and linear bearings? I could easily do a linear rod Prusa, but I'd like to try some other alternates just to see. Just about the only thing I would need is a board and an a hotend. Well.... Id have to reorganize my "print room" again. a stretch mendlemax 1.5  ya teh SAE to MM conversion dont work quite too well. best to go with all SAE or all MM.
i think next week ill be healed enough to start tearing into mine for its rebuild.. |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 3:30:18 PM EDT
[#44]
looking at the printed parts on the mendel 1.5... it looks like I can chose whatever size extrusions as I want, because the geometry will be the same. Mendel's page "scaling" the max seems to confirm this as well. So I guess this begs the question... You think the beefy 76 oz-in steppers can handle a 500x500mm build plate, or would I need to step up even more? Cuz thats what I've got extras of. well, I supposed 300x500 would be better. Doesnt need to be 500 in both dimensions.
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Posted: 10/17/2014 1:22:15 AM EDT
[#45]
Finishing up a battlewagon.
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Posted: 10/17/2014 1:43:17 AM EDT
[#46]
Would an SLS or SLA printer be able to print miniatures in a resolution that is on par with the injection molded stuff from Citadel?
The one I really want is this |
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Posted: 10/17/2014 1:53:40 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Would an SLS or SLA printer be able to print miniatures in a resolution that is on par with the injection molded stuff from Citadel? The one I really want is this At the same resolution, yes. SLS/SLA has some crazy good resolution. The resolutions noted in the link, mine can also go down to 50 micron in the Z. Not 25... However... That build volume is minuscule. The printer you linked to, 125mm... That is ridiculously small. It would have no hope of ever printing half of the stuff on this page. The material is also much more expensive than the FDM style printers. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 10:20:57 PM EDT
[#48]
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