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Sweet looking build, what barrel profile did you use? View Quote 20" 5.56mm M16 A2 A/R Barrel, 1:7 twist, is what they call it on Green Mountain Barrel Company I still need optics and stuff, but I'm going to take it to the range and test it to decide what I want. I was kinda worried about putting MBUS buis on it, especially the front sight. It might melt. |
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With that light of a profile I think I would try to put a JP heat sink on it.
Did you go with a Jard trigger or a Timney? I think MBUIS will be fine on the free float tube. Did you use any other parts specifically becausevit was a bump build?
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With that light of a profile I think I would try to put a JP heat sink on it. Did you go with a Jard trigger or a Timney? I think MBUIS will be fine on the free float tube. Did you use any other parts specifically becausevit was a bump build? View Quote It has the stock AR trigger still. From what I've read on this thread and yours in the tech section, is a 4.5lb-ish trigger is nice to have. I'll try stock at first and see how well it does (or doesnt) work. It's all pretty much regular AR parts. My first ever 20" build. The rail is a UTG pro, so we'll see how that holds up. |
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Well, here's mine. Just finished putting it together. SkilletsUSMC, you made me buy all these parts except the lower. http://www.bloodshotgamer.com/guns/sfar.jpg View Quote That's hawt... |
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So when are you going to get some video? I'm actually disappointed with the current inception of my gun. I think I'm going to go back to the 16" barrel with the M60 and use this 18" somewhere else.
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So when are you going to get some video? I'm actually disappointed with the current inception of my gun. I think I'm going to go back to the 16" barrel with the M60 and use this 18" somewhere else. View Quote I actually bought a camera mount just for you. It should arrive today. I'll probably get to the range tomorrow or the next day. |
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I'll be honest.
I've ignored this thread. I've considered bump-firing to be stupid and pointless. Your thread is changing my mind on the topic.
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I actually bought a camera mount just for you. It should arrive today. I'll probably get to the range tomorrow or the next day. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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So when are you going to get some video? I'm actually disappointed with the current inception of my gun. I think I'm going to go back to the 16" barrel with the M60 and use this 18" somewhere else. I actually bought a camera mount just for you. It should arrive today. I'll probably get to the range tomorrow or the next day. Thanks man! I'll pay the shipping since you're being so nice. |
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I should probably get one of those tripods. People are getting sick of holding my phone while I shoot.
How much was it? |
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I should probably get one of those tripods. People are getting sick of holding my phone while I shoot. How much was it? View Quote I'm not sure, I bought that about 10 years ago. The little phone holder-adapter thingie for the tripod was $25.00 link Thats for the XL one. There's the "normal" size available too, just depends on what size phone you have. |
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So when are you going to get some video? I'm actually disappointed with the current inception of my gun. I think I'm going to go back to the 16" barrel with the M60 and use this 18" somewhere else. What don't you like about the 18"? There is nothing wrong with the barrel itself, I just don't think it's right for this build. The gun is getting heavy. With the Fostech it's 12.25lbs as it sits, no mag. I think I will go back to a normal barrel for this upper and then do the 18" on a more "IAR" style build for Bump-SAW 2. |
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Or have a hot gal do the shooting while you hold the camera. People are getting sick of watching Skillets shoot - you've got no boobs, man. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: I should probably get one of those tripods. People are getting sick of holding my phone while I shoot.
How much was it? Or have a hot gal do the shooting while you hold the camera. People are getting sick of watching Skillets shoot - you've got no boobs, man. I'll second this suggestion! |
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My Bumpfire Systems came in. They may well be betting they can defeat Slidefire's patents in court, as many of the features Bumpfire claims to have invented were apparently features on the now-banned Atkins Accelerator, if I understand things correctly.
However, if anyone is wondering whether to buy a Bumpfire Systems stock, now is the time to FO, before Slidefire gets an injunction against them. It's pretty quick shipping - came Priority Mail. |
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My Bumpfire Systems came in. They may well be betting they can defeat Slidefire's patents in court, as many of the features Bumpfire claims to have invented were apparently features on the now-banned Atkins Accelerator, if I understand things correctly. However, if anyone is wondering whether to buy a Bumpfire Systems stock, now is the time to FO, before Slidefire gets an injunction against them. It's pretty quick shipping - came Priority Mail. View Quote This is what I am thinking. I remember something about how Fostech sued SFS because they owned Mr. Akins' patient. I may have that wrong since the thread is long in the archives. I wonder what came of that? I don't want to come off like I am bashing Slide Fire Solutions. Believe me, I have gotten much enjoyment from their product, but they are coming in way to high price-wise. Outside of the issue with the charging handle, the Bump Fire Systems stock is better than the Slide Fire in looks and price. They are about the same in quality. I will still suggest that anyone who is truly interested in the concept to get the Fostech. You'd have to have one and mess around with it to understand. But if someone just wants to rip a couple mags off and have fun, the BFS is the clear winner. |
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What trigger is everyone using? I installed my defendar15 on my ar today and couldn't get off more than 2 or 3 rounds.
Using wolf ammo, with a colt 20" lightweight barrel a1 style. Lower was a spikes lower with DPMS lower parts kit. Maybe try a new trigger? The DPMS trigger does have a heavy pull on it. |
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What trigger is everyone using? I installed my defendar15 on my ar today and couldn't get off more than 2 or 3 rounds. Using wolf ammo, with a colt 20" lightweight barrel a1 style. Lower was a spikes lower with DPMS lower parts kit. Maybe try a new trigger? The DPMS trigger does have a heavy pull on it. View Quote What's happening to the trigger? Usually a mil spec should work. Is the hammer disconnecting? |
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What's happening to the trigger? Usually a mil spec should work. Is the hammer disconnecting? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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What trigger is everyone using? I installed my defendar15 on my ar today and couldn't get off more than 2 or 3 rounds. Using wolf ammo, with a colt 20" lightweight barrel a1 style. Lower was a spikes lower with DPMS lower parts kit. Maybe try a new trigger? The DPMS trigger does have a heavy pull on it. What's happening to the trigger? Usually a mil spec should work. Is the hammer disconnecting? I'll pull the rifle forward and it'll get one round off and not reset the trigger, I have to let go of the trigger for it to reset. Would this be because the trigger pull is too heavy? |
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Trigger reset is too long for the weight and recoil of your rifle.
As long as the stock is sliding smoothly I would put a JARD adjustable trigger in.
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Yeah it slides smoothly. I was thinking it was the trigger, between heavy trigger pull and long reset. What jard trigger pull withy l weight would you recommend? 2 or 3lb? I know nothing about geissele, hard, or cmc type triggers.
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Quoted: Yeah it slides smoothly. I was thinking it was the trigger, between heavy trigger pull and long reset. What jard trigger pull withy l weight would you recommend? 2 or 3lb? I know nothing about geissele, hard, or cmc type triggers. View Quote |
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Glad you had fun! Sorry to hear that your build was off somewhere. Your comment about the trigger is why I suggest people "snap in" before shooting one of these setups.
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One other thing I discovered. Using that magpul fore-grip/grip style is impossible without gloves. The whole thing gets waaaaaaaaay too hot.
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One of the problems I was just trying to sort out was my gun wasn't holding the bolt open.
It was then I realized what you said about the charging handle getting in the way of the BFS. That sure as shit was the problem. Guess I'm getting the dremel out. |
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One of the problems I was just trying to sort out was my gun wasn't holding the bolt open. It was then I realized what you said about the charging handle getting in the way of the BFS. That sure as shit was the problem. Guess I'm getting the dremel out. View Quote I just can't see how you could grip the gun and operate the CH properly and have the bolt lock back... I think it says something about how the folks who designed it shoot. |
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One other thing I discovered. Using that magpul fore-grip/grip style is impossible without gloves. The whole thing gets waaaaaaaaay too hot. View Quote So I was thinking about this recently, and I have a few thoughts to "change the barrel" as it were. As we know some light or medium machine guns today allow for relatively quick switching of the barrels in the field. Most AR-15/M-16's don't have this ability due to the way their barrel is attached to the receiver. That being said, there are a few products on the market allow relatively quick switching of barrels. Due to the modularity of the AR-15 you could simply change Upper receiver to another same receiver, but if you don't want to carry around the extra weight of a second handguard setup with attached accessores you could utilize the Fortis Switch to quickly remove your handguard with attached accessores, and then reattach to the new "less hot" upper! Now I know that the linked item is for AR-10's, but there should be a AR-15 platform version relatively soon... Now one thing to note would be that any optics or other items attached to the upper receiver itself would now be misaligned due to the removal and reattachment to a new gun. Now I suppose you could have an optic attached to both the "used" upper and the "new" upper but this could be expensive, add weight and be bulky. A simpler solution may be to simply use a quick detach mount for your optic and then figure out what the zero would be between uppers. Anyway, this is complicated and would only apply if you have lots of money anyway at which point you should just buy a real machine gun! So basically to recap, you would have your Fortis Swithc handguard with attached flashlight, bipod, and/or tactigear and remove it using the lever, and then switch the current upper with a newer, cooler upper receiver. At this point you would simply re-attach the Fortis Switch to the new upper and reconvene firing! Anyway, this seems like a simple way of solving the heat issue for longer strings of fire for a gun of this type of setup. Who knows, maybe this thread will morph into a discussion about which Form 1 MG setups work the best! (Hopeful thinking!!) |
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Quoted: So I was thinking about this recently, and I have a few thoughts to "change the barrel" as it were. As we know some light or medium machine guns today allow for relatively quick switching of the barrels in the field. Most AR-15/M-16's don't have this ability due to the way their barrel is attached to the receiver.
That being said, there are a few products on the market allow relatively quick switching of barrels. Due to the modularity of the AR-15 you could simply change Upper receiver to another same receiver, but if you don't want to carry around the extra weight of a second handguard setup with attached accessores you could utilize the Fortis Switch to quickly remove your handguard with attached accessores, and then reattach to the new "less hot" upper! Now I know that the linked item is for AR-10's, but there should be a AR-15 platform version relatively soon... Now one thing to note would be that any optics or other items attached to the upper receiver itself would now be misaligned due to the removal and reattachment to a new gun. Now I suppose you could have an optic attached to both the "used" upper and the "new" upper but this could be expensive, add weight and be bulky. A simpler solution may be to simply use a quick detach mount for your optic and then figure out what the zero would be between uppers. Anyway, this is complicated and would only apply if you have lots of money anyway at which point you should just buy a real machine gun! So basically to recap, you would have your Fortis Swithc handguard with attached flashlight, bipod, and/or tactigear and remove it using the lever, and then switch the current upper with a newer, cooler upper receiver. At this point you would simply re-attach the Fortis Switch to the new upper and reconvene firing! Anyway, this seems like a simple way of solving the heat issue for longer strings of fire for a gun of this type of setup. Who knows, maybe this thread will morph into a discussion about which Form 1 MG setups work the best! (Hopeful thinking!!) View Quote I keep thinking these cheap 16" uppers may be the ticket, w/ cheap red dots, solving the different bbl W&E issue, and swap magnifiers btwn uppers - and probably bolt carriers. Only problem w/ spare uppers is I hear they tend to breed. Heaven forbid you lock one up in a safe w/ a Mosin. |
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I keep thinking these cheap 16" uppers may be the ticket, w/ cheap red dots, solving the different bbl W&E issue, and swap magnifiers btwn uppers - and probably bolt carriers. Only problem w/ spare uppers is I hear they tend to breed. Heaven forbid you lock one up in a safe w/ a Mosin. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: So I was thinking about this recently, and I have a few thoughts to "change the barrel" as it were. As we know some light or medium machine guns today allow for relatively quick switching of the barrels in the field. Most AR-15/M-16's don't have this ability due to the way their barrel is attached to the receiver.
That being said, there are a few products on the market allow relatively quick switching of barrels. Due to the modularity of the AR-15 you could simply change Upper receiver to another same receiver, but if you don't want to carry around the extra weight of a second handguard setup with attached accessores you could utilize the Fortis Switch to quickly remove your handguard with attached accessores, and then reattach to the new "less hot" upper! Now I know that the linked item is for AR-10's, but there should be a AR-15 platform version relatively soon... Now one thing to note would be that any optics or other items attached to the upper receiver itself would now be misaligned due to the removal and reattachment to a new gun. Now I suppose you could have an optic attached to both the "used" upper and the "new" upper but this could be expensive, add weight and be bulky. A simpler solution may be to simply use a quick detach mount for your optic and then figure out what the zero would be between uppers. Anyway, this is complicated and would only apply if you have lots of money anyway at which point you should just buy a real machine gun! So basically to recap, you would have your Fortis Swithc handguard with attached flashlight, bipod, and/or tactigear and remove it using the lever, and then switch the current upper with a newer, cooler upper receiver. At this point you would simply re-attach the Fortis Switch to the new upper and reconvene firing! Anyway, this seems like a simple way of solving the heat issue for longer strings of fire for a gun of this type of setup. Who knows, maybe this thread will morph into a discussion about which Form 1 MG setups work the best! (Hopeful thinking!!) I keep thinking these cheap 16" uppers may be the ticket, w/ cheap red dots, solving the different bbl W&E issue, and swap magnifiers btwn uppers - and probably bolt carriers. Only problem w/ spare uppers is I hear they tend to breed. Heaven forbid you lock one up in a safe w/ a Mosin. Two Bump-SAWs with two shooters. Talking guns at the sustained rate. |
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Well the only problem I see is that removing the bipod if it's attached to the upper at all would be awkward tedious and possibly a dangerous time consuming task in a firefight. (Because we're all taking our bumpfires out and getting into firefights right? ) But then you would also need to change to a cooler upper. I think the Fortis Switch is something that would at least allow for switching to a cooler "new" barrel so that your "used" one can cool down a bit. Of course the handguards probably wouldn't be all that cool, but as long as they don't melt who cares right?
If you did the strictly spare uppers part you would indeed have to restrain yourself from building, yet another, bumpfire gun! Are your mosin's getting froggy or something? Just keep them separated from your "good" guns! |
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Well the only problem I see is that removing the bipod if it's attached to the upper at all would be awkward tedious and possibly a dangerous time consuming task in a firefight. (Because we're all taking our bumpfires out and getting into firefights right? ) But then you would also need to change to a cooler upper. I think the Fortis Switch is something that would at least allow for switching to a cooler "new" barrel so that your "used" one can cool down a bit. Of course the handguards probably wouldn't be all that cool, but as long as they don't melt who cares right? If you did the strictly spare uppers part you would indeed have to restrain yourself from building, yet another, bumpfire gun! Are your mosin's getting froggy or something? Just keep them separated from your "good" guns! View Quote Have a '17 Remmy w/ a fare thee well trigger - it IS a good gun. |
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Heres the video I took today. Stupid ios 8 wont let me upload in HD for some reason. So here's the crappy version. I was having trouble. I couldn't get more than a couple shots to fire when trying to hold on top of the buffer tube and pushing forward on the charging handle. As you can see in the vid, when I grabbed the rail (which was hot ) then the reciever and pulled it forward, it ran perfectly. Also you'll see me run into the charging handle interference, which I will fix for good tonight. Lots of fun. Best $100.00 I ever spent. Well, if you include all the parts for the new gun, more like 6-700 http://youtu.be/3Ah73q1U7zA View Quote Very cool. What is likely happening is that you are pushing down on the stock tube and binding it up without realizing it. That causes friction. You can lube the stock up or switch your grip a bit to compensate. One you know it's a no-go to push down, you'll be money. It's almost like the bump fire stock is the real gun, and the rest of it is sorta hanging off the end. Try putting your left thumb under the stock for a while. It's not necessary, but it will help you not bear down on it so much. Edit: Do you want me to put this video in the OP? |
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One more thing: I have yet to bind up the Fostech when it's lubed up. It will slow down, but never bind up.
For that alone, It was worth the money. |
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Very cool. What is likely happening is that you are pushing down on the stock tube and binding it up without realizing it. That causes friction. You can lube the stock up or switch your grip a bit to compensate. One you know it's a no-go to push down, you'll be money. It's almost like the bump fire stock is the real gun, and the rest of it is sorta hanging off the end. Try putting your left thumb under the stock for a while. It's not necessary, but it will help you not bear down on it so much. Edit: Do you want me to put this video in the OP? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Heres the video I took today. Stupid ios 8 wont let me upload in HD for some reason. So here's the crappy version. I was having trouble. I couldn't get more than a couple shots to fire when trying to hold on top of the buffer tube and pushing forward on the charging handle. As you can see in the vid, when I grabbed the rail (which was hot ) then the reciever and pulled it forward, it ran perfectly. Also you'll see me run into the charging handle interference, which I will fix for good tonight. Lots of fun. Best $100.00 I ever spent. Well, if you include all the parts for the new gun, more like 6-700 http://youtu.be/3Ah73q1U7zA Very cool. What is likely happening is that you are pushing down on the stock tube and binding it up without realizing it. That causes friction. You can lube the stock up or switch your grip a bit to compensate. One you know it's a no-go to push down, you'll be money. It's almost like the bump fire stock is the real gun, and the rest of it is sorta hanging off the end. Try putting your left thumb under the stock for a while. It's not necessary, but it will help you not bear down on it so much. Edit: Do you want me to put this video in the OP? Sure, that's fine. |
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One more thing: I have yet to bind up the Fostech when it's lubed up. It will slow down, but never bind up. For that alone, It was worth the money. View Quote One thing I did notice on the BFS. When my gun is sitting there in the ground, on its bipod, and you grab the grip, you can "twist" it, or bend it side to side. It doesn't feel stable. Did you notice this, or know what I'm talking about? Does the Fostech feel more secure? Does it mount the same way, with the little rail piece where the grip goes and the stock slides back and forth on it? |
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One thing I did notice on the BFS. When my gun is sitting there in the ground, on its bipod, and you grab the grip, you can "twist" it, or bend it side to side. It doesn't feel stable. Did you notice this, or know what I'm talking about? Does the Fostech feel more secure? Does it mount the same way, with the little rail piece where the grip goes and the stock slides back and forth on it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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One more thing: I have yet to bind up the Fostech when it's lubed up. It will slow down, but never bind up. For that alone, It was worth the money. One thing I did notice on the BFS. When my gun is sitting there in the ground, on its bipod, and you grab the grip, you can "twist" it, or bend it side to side. It doesn't feel stable. Did you notice this, or know what I'm talking about? Does the Fostech feel more secure? Does it mount the same way, with the little rail piece where the grip goes and the stock slides back and forth on it? I know exactly what you're talking about, and I have noticed that it is more pronounced if the stock tube has any twist to it. Outside of a little play (similar to the fit between some receivers) the Fostech is SOLID. Like stronger than an A2 stock. I suppose you could break it, but it's like saying you could break your lower. |
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I know exactly what you're talking about, and I have noticed that it is more pronounced if the stock tube has any twist to it. Outside of a little play (similar to the fit between some receivers) the Fostech is SOLID. Like stronger than an A2 stock. I suppose you could break it, but it's like saying you could break your lower. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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One more thing: I have yet to bind up the Fostech when it's lubed up. It will slow down, but never bind up. For that alone, It was worth the money. One thing I did notice on the BFS. When my gun is sitting there in the ground, on its bipod, and you grab the grip, you can "twist" it, or bend it side to side. It doesn't feel stable. Did you notice this, or know what I'm talking about? Does the Fostech feel more secure? Does it mount the same way, with the little rail piece where the grip goes and the stock slides back and forth on it? I know exactly what you're talking about, and I have noticed that it is more pronounced if the stock tube has any twist to it. Outside of a little play (similar to the fit between some receivers) the Fostech is SOLID. Like stronger than an A2 stock. I suppose you could break it, but it's like saying you could break your lower. You're a wizard. That's twice you mentioned something about a loose buffer tube being a problem. I just checked my rife. The buffer tube nut is spinning freely. I guess I'll need to fix that too and head to the range for a third trial run. |
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I have no idea how I could miss a 30 plus page thread of total badassery.
So...badass. I'm always shocked at people who hate on any gun. I love them all, but I will admit, I never thought of using a bump fire stock for anything that I couldn't do by bumping it by just using a stock gun. Adding a bipod puts it into a whole different category of fun. |
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One other thing I've learned.
Stuff you previously thought you didn't need to loctite, needs loctite when bumpfiring. So far I've lot my Midwest Industries free floating rail (it pulled off the end when I was adding forward pressure ) My bipod fell off in two places. The sling mount keymod adapter came off, and then the bipod fell off the sling mount adapter. |
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Quoted: One other thing I've learned. Stuff you previously thought you didn't need to loctite, needs loctite when bumpfiring. So far I've lot my Midwest Industries free floating rail (it pulled off the end when I was adding forward pressure ) My bipod fell off in two places. The sling mount keymod adapter came off, and then the bipod fell off the sling mount adapter. View Quote FA beats the dogshit out of guns. |
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I know exactly what you're talking about, and I have noticed that it is more pronounced if the stock tube has any twist to it. Outside of a little play (similar to the fit between some receivers) the Fostech is SOLID. Like stronger than an A2 stock. I suppose you could break it, but it's like saying you could break your lower. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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One more thing: I have yet to bind up the Fostech when it's lubed up. It will slow down, but never bind up. For that alone, It was worth the money. One thing I did notice on the BFS. When my gun is sitting there in the ground, on its bipod, and you grab the grip, you can "twist" it, or bend it side to side. It doesn't feel stable. Did you notice this, or know what I'm talking about? Does the Fostech feel more secure? Does it mount the same way, with the little rail piece where the grip goes and the stock slides back and forth on it? I know exactly what you're talking about, and I have noticed that it is more pronounced if the stock tube has any twist to it. Outside of a little play (similar to the fit between some receivers) the Fostech is SOLID. Like stronger than an A2 stock. I suppose you could break it, but it's like saying you could break your lower. I can second this. I'm still waiting on a lower for my bumpSAW, but your lower will break before the Fostech will. It is 4 chunks of thick, milled aluminum that bolt together rock-solid like. (Well maybe a couple more if you count the cheekriser/rest & small parts.) You could use it as a bludgeon. It's worth the price. |
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