EDIT:

All of my pics got messed up somehow. I've created an imugr album with all of them, but I'm not going back and fixing every post. I did toss 'appropriate' pictures in this post for 'my' stuff that got screwed up. The vendors pic is screwed up, too...

http://imgur.com/a/qFWAU

ORIGINAL POST

I've been looking for some time for an M416 (or M101) trailer to pull behind my Jeep. Every one I've found has either been $$$$ or a Rustbucket. For some reason, they're harder to find around here than in some other chunks of the country.

So instead of keeping up my pursuit, I've decided to build an M-series Dinnot. This is a fiberglass tub kit that goes on either an M416 frame or a homebuilt frame.

In the end, I hope to have something that looks kinda like this, but the same color as my Jeep:



More to come...

ETA 7/6:

It's not done but it's rolling...



ETA: 9/1:

Back from my initial voyage...

In my case, the frame began life as a 4x8 Harbor Freight trailer, the 1720# 'Heavy Duty' model.

I chose this because (A) the axle bolt pattern matches that of my Jeep; and (B) it was cheap. (<$300 - taxed out - on Easter)

The first step is to cut down the metal, because the HF trailer is too long and too wide (my trailer will be 40.5" x 72, just like an M416):



Drilling new holes - I quickly stopped using the Drill press, hand drill worked better.



Once I had it bolted up (don't worry, center isn't bolted in yet) I had to reposition the spring hangers:



Then I used the leftover metal to build a spine for the trailer. Once bolted together, it's pretty stout.



All done building the frame...



Don't worry about that thing at the bottom. We'll get to that.

The standard M416 military trailer doesn't have a tailgate, it's just a tub to put your stuff in. That's something I don't like about it, so this trailer is going to have a tailgate.

I scored a Crown Automotive replacement tailgate for a CJ-7 pretty cheap. You use a CJ tailgate, not a Wrangler tailgate, so that it drops down, not swings to the side.

It came with a very nice black finish. Unfortunately, my Jeep isn't Black.



I first used some el-cheapo Rustoleum Auto Primer:



Then I decided to try some Duplicolor 'perfect match' automotive rattle-can paint. I figure if it doesn't work, I'll get it professionally painted. But this stuff is $30/6pack on Amazon, so it was worth the $8 to buy a can.



I had a slight incident with the first coat (Operator error - the can has a weird nozzle), and most of it came back off. So I ran out a little early. But it's pretty close:



Close enough for me to order a case (this was last weekend). I still haven't polished it or put on clearcoat, but the color is pretty much dead on.

So, someone out there is saying to themselves:

'A guy named ASUsax can't possibly have a Blue and Red Trailer'

Don't worry, I'm way ahead of you, and today that heavy fucker got dragged into my back yard and painted:









And that's where it sits.

Literally. It's in my backyard until someone comes and helps me move it back to the front.

I seem to remember a thread a long time ago about a guy on here who made on out of a samuri that he picked up for cheap that looked similar to that trailer.

Look at GL sales in Barstow DRMO. Lots of HMMWV trailers being sold now, usually around $200.



I need to buy a few, just for the tires and wheels for a 4x4 project I've got, but they would be a terrific start for a serious trailer build. Also damned cheap for what they are.

The 'J-series' dinoot is supposed to look like a trailer made out of the back of a Jeep tub. But I like the M416 look.

I read a thread on another forum the other day about a guy who built one out of the back end of a Cherokee, to tow behind his Cherokee.

Too late, I'm balls deep in this thing.

Mine is the bed from an old Ford Courier. upgraded axle with wheels and tires the same as my Jeep.

16 gallog fuel tank for the Jeep, 20 gallons water, on board propane for stove. 2 deep cycle batteries to run the fuel and water pumps, as well as LED lighting.
Eventually it will have sliding drawers for food, hard mount stove, and a Maggiolina on top. Then an awning off the left side. I'll have the entire area between wheel wells  for junk like folding chairs, kid tent, and such.

It's a couple years in the making, and a steady but slow project.

Whatever you do, don't go look at expeditionportal.com


It's the arfcom of the expo world.

you dont want one of thoose trailers anyway.
they are quite large, too big in fact.
weigh too much, are too wide.  Not at all suited for an off road trailer towed behind anything less than a humvee.

You've gotta throw some pics up.

I've looked around a bit, and while I'm probably not going to put under-bed fuel/water tanks, I am thinking about putting mounts on the side for 3x Jerry cans and a 20# Propane tank. (The Jeep already has JC holders on the swingout, so that would give me 25 gallons of fuel or water)

Yeah, I stopped and looked at a trailer like that about a year ago.

It was parked a bit back from the road. Looked about right from a distance, and kept getting bigger... and bigger... and bigger...

Guess who just scored a pair of NOS M416 fenders on E-bay?





ETA: That's an Ebay pic, so it'll probably red-x when they sell the last set they have...

It is threads like this that make me realize how pathetic I am.
Give me a pile of wood and I can build you something but metal I am all thumbs.

Meh, different strokes. I use a suburban with a cummins, don't even notice trailers behind it.  But yeah, for a jeep might be a bit much.



IAC, OP is well along in his build.



 

I'll try to get some pics up later.

The fuel is under the rear of the bed. Water is 2 10 gallon tanks, one each in front of the wheel wells. While the 160lbs of waterr isnt offset by 75lbs of fuel, the fuel tank being as far back as possible helps keep the weight balanced over the axle. Off road you really need the 60/40 weight.

I've had my trailer in some pretty hairy spots, it performs nicely. No issues towing it with the jeep

Awesome, awesome, awesome!!!



Love it, 05 TJ owner here.  Subscribed.

Found some older pics i posted on ExPo
from the tailgate. You can see the water tanks on left and right sides in front of the wheel wells. Batteries are seen on top of each wheel well.
I have thin sheet metal closing the center area, The hose in this picture is from the propane cylinder. It has since been routed along the side with water lines so it's no longer in the cargo area.


my control center. I have a Mater switch to disconnect the batteries from any power consumers. You'd hate to leave something on and have dead batteries. water pump and fuel pump have seperate switches of course. I used a water pump for an RV, so it will shut off at 60 psi. That way i dont have to hit the switch to kill flow, just turn the valve at the output like normal, the water then shuts off, and pressure is ready for when i want it. next.The blue flex line is water output. There is a 3/8" ID hose running though it. The flex line keeps it rigid enough to keep the output where it put it. Usually off the left side of the trailer, away from electrical.


propane tank.standard 20 lb on it now, but can easily accept a 30 lb for longer trips. It is plumbed to the rear where the stove will eventually be hard mounted. The smal area infront of the tank is perfect for firewood. I think I'll put a basket of expanded metal there to keep it in on rought stuff, and increse the amount i can carry here.


Fuel cell. Mine is mounted where the spare tire was. I found a 16 gallon tank that fits the area perfectly. It's protected by the axle and body panels. I used the factory filler location. the pump is mounted at the top of the tank, out of the way of anything. I have the output lines running to the left front, where i coiled 10' of hose in a contaier.This set up reaches my Jeep filler nicely, while still long enough to fuel you if need be.


Tires and wheels are the same as on my Jeep. Same gas cap also. Few different parts is always a good thing.




Dont forget one of the MOST IMPORTANT itmes of an off road trailer. The hitch. A standard ball mount will NOT work.Many people use the pintle hook, i dont like them my self. I used a Lock N Roll i found on ExPo for almost nothing. https://locknroll.com/
Most popular seems to be MaxCoupler

You must have a 3 axis hitch, or you will lose the trailer.

Mine is pulled behind a 2000 TJ, 4.0L 5 speed. Black Magic brakes. The trailer is a few inches narrower than the Jeep, which is important. I can't find a picture of them toget, so I'll hook  it up later a take one. I have the tan tarp until i can afford the tent for on top.

too many hobbies.

I've got a 1969 M101A1 I keep firewood in. Wayyyyy too big for my Wrangler, but a 1/2 ton fullsize pickup will tow it just fine.



 

Yepper , this is getting tagged .



And ditto to what was mentioned regarding Expo Portal ...that place is to truck porn like our tech forums are to bang-sticks .

Tag

You did a good job OP.  

Yeah, I'm either going to buy a Lock-n-roll or build one of those Tractor Supply 3-axis units.

It's going to get a ball coupler to start out, but that's just so I can get it on the road and use it to haul some of the other stuff I need. And get it registered, which I'll do before I put the tub on it. I also want to mock it up, I'm not sure exactly which Lock-n-roll setup I'd need.

Here's the TSC coupler, which allegedly costs about $50. I don't have welding gear, but I've got a buddy who just put a nice welding room in his new house, and I can probably talk him into it.  (My Neighbor will be doing  little welding on this thing, but with a coupler, I trust my buddy more, even though he's in Texas now and I'll have to ship it...)

Nicely done. I like what you've done with the water line, I'd never have thought of using something like that.

Welcome to the addiction OP.  Expedition portal is worse than this place in terms of costing you money.  


Here's a link my trailer build thread

I remember seeing that. It's amazing to me how many of us are on the same boards. There's a local guy to me that is here, expo, and a few motorcycle websites i'm on.

if you're ever near DFW and want to take the trailers out to some trails, i'm in. we hhave parks in Bridgeport and Barnwell mountain in Gilmer.

I live in Irving, but unfortunately,  I'm moving to Nashville at the end of the month.   Otherwise,  I'd gladly go wheeling with you.

Thanks a lot OP. Every time I say to myself I'm going to use this money for a boat somebody like you comes along and squashes that. However, I'd still be able to haul my fishing kayaks with one of these so I guess I'm not completely out.

Subscribed.

Looks nice!

Didn't do much today, just cut off the old spring hangers (since I narrowed the frame, they need to be moved) and mocked up the axle. I need my Neighbor to reweld the axle, so I'm going to leave it like this until we can get around to it.

I've seen some people build racks to go over the top of these, precisely to carry a Kayak or Canoe. I'm not sure I'm going to do that, though I do have a Canoe.

You could look for a boat used, if you look in my last picture there's a 12-foot '64 Starcraft under that tarp, I got it and the trailer for $300, and then a 2.5HP 2-stroke Nissan outboard for $75. The Boat looked like shit (Aluminum, someone painted it Baby Blue, then someone painted it white, and it had all started to chip off), the trailer didn't look much better, and the motor had a cracked tank and the impeller was shot. The Boat is now Forest Green Krylon Camo, I repainted the trailer, and fixed the boat. I've probably got <$600 in it, and it's a good little boat for the small lakes up on the Rim, or the bigger lakes in the winter when the Skiboats aren't out there. (I've also got a Porta-bote and an 6HP 4-stroke Nissan, as well as a 15' Coleman Canoe, so I've got a little flotilla in the back yard...)

Can't wait to see it all put together!

Well, project is going to slow down a little. I had a pretty nasty bike crash the other day, and I've got a busted wing. (Hopefully just sprained my shoulder, haven't seen a doc yet, hoping it gets better without one...)

But my NOS (New Old Stock) M416 fenders came in:



If anyone has access to a 416 and can tell me how these are supposed to bolt on, I'd appreciate it.

I also found a set of Jeep Steelies off a Cherokee for cheap. The tires still have decent tread, so that'll keep me from having to buy rubber right away:

Tag

There are L shaped tabs welded onto the trailer tub and frame.  The tabs are pulled out enough at the top so that the lip of the fenders fits behind them.......if that makes any sense.    

Perfect sense, and that's sorta what I was thinking I would have to do

Made some more progress this weekend, despite having messed my shoulder up.

Yesterday I rewelded the weld tabs on my axle (or rather, my Neighbor did; I have welded in the past, but don't have the equipment).

Some prep work first:



After that, I got to do my least favorite thing in the whole world.... Pack bearings. Had a little trouble with that, one of the dust caps was rubbing on something (probably the cotter pin) on one hub, so I had to mess with that, but it's not rubbing anymore. Got the wheels on the axle and struggled a little to flip the trailer, bum shoulder wasn't helping me there. Fortunately, I have one good shoulder, and I'm a pretty strong guy, so it got done.

Then we got it into the Garage for some work. (This was more trouble than you'd think, because it was behind my other trailer, and the trailer dolly got stolen, so I went to buy a new one)

Took a run over to Harbor Freight, picked up a tongue jack while I was there. (Real reason was to replace the trailer dolly - with the shoulder, I just can't manhandle the boat around, it's too heavy for me to one arm it.)

Got everything level and decided to check my clearance:



18 inches to the lowest edge of the frame. Those tires are 235/70R15's off a Cherokee, so they're about 28x9.3. Since I'm Planning on running 33's on this trailer eventually, I should have at least 20" of clearance on the frame, and 16.5" over the axle when all is said and done. I don't know when I'll actually get to those tires - these ones have a ton of tread left, and I've got some 31x10.50's that have some life left, too. I may play cheap for a bit.

Then I wired up the lights, and got the trailer out to test them.



Don't worry about the ball hitch. It's what it came with, and I'm going to use it to get this baby registered before I put on a Lock-n-roll.

where you going to get the tub in the 1st pic? God job wish I had that skill set.

never mind I should have clicked the link....

It's a piece of cake, man. Just a little elbow grease and some basic tools (I really didn't use the drill press in the first set of pics very much at all, the hand drill was easier).

There's really nothing here that people should be afraid of tackling.

Sweet. I would really like to build something like this eventually.

that's kool as all get out..... was going to post about needing a hitch that will articulate, but you have it covered......

I've always used a pintle hitch, that either the hitch or eye would swivel, but that looks even better.......  

Not much progress. And I'm in Vegas next weekend, so nothing for a couple weeks after this.

Had to hit 2 Home Depots this AM, the one by my house had a busted saw, and I didn't want to rip this myself.



Put some eye bolts on the top, these will probably stay when I install the tub, I intend to use them as tiedowns.



Tomorrow I'm going to lower the trailer and put the stock HF fenders & tires on it, so I can get it registered.

That way when I need to haul this crap, I don't have to do it on the roll bars of the Jeep.

Tagged, I'll be wanting to see how this goes.

Yeah, I really am thinking about that. I don't own a welder, and my welding is a little rusty. My Neighbor did the axle, and quite frankly, I don't want him welding on the frame, those two little spring hangers took him long enough to get acceptable.

But I'm thinking about ponying up for a little flux-core wire feed unit and doing some welding.

As for timing, that floor is coming off AT LEAST twice. I've actually got a wrench stuck in there (not enough clearance between two bolts to get it out) and just zip tied it in, figuring I'll get it out. Right now I want to get it registered so I can use it to move some stuff. But once I get the tub, the floor will come off, it'll get mocked up on the frame (so I can drill the holes in the tub), pulled back off, and then painted and put back on.

So I've got some time to do that, still.

One of the guys at work bought a Harbor Freight Mig welder, but just uses flux core wire (I don't think he ever got around to buying a tank and regulator).  It worked much better after he gave up on the Harbor Freight flux core wire and bought some better flux core wire at Lowes.

When we had to modify an engine hoist to clear the crates that Continental and Lycoming use, he brought the welder in for that job.  Even with heavier tubing than we probably needed (I think it was 1/4" wall thickness), it did a good job once the feed rate and amperage was set.  Only hickups were a couple times it overheated and the protection circuit shut it down.

Definitely not something to buy for a business, but should be fine for projects.

All progress is good progress. I'm working on the drawers for the right side. Build drawer slider for top drawer, then build the drawers. Next I'm mounting the stove.  I've decided to bite the bullet at the end of June and order the tent. Maggiolina Airtop, medium will work perfect.

Stolen from google: