I'm specifically looking for a distribution block that has only one input and at least four outputs.  It must be insulated to handle 120v and each output should have provisions for a fast blow fuse (each output needs a 10a fuse).  Input and output terminals must be either a threaded post or a set screw type designed for 12-14 gauge wire.  And finally, I would really prefer for it to have a cover for safety.

I can find these rated up to 32v for automotive applications, but I don't trust these at higher voltages.  Some of the car audio stuff looks like it would be fine at a higher voltage, but they're all designed for 0-6ish gauge wire.

Can any of you guys point me in the right direction?

Check out Blue Sea Systems marine panels, a lot of boats run AC systems, and it'll be sealed.

You can't fuse the outputs individually?

Volts shouldn't matter, the wire is rating for the load. 12ga wire doesn't care if it's 12 or 120.

Well, I would prefer that the block have one fuse per output.  I could run a terminal strip then a fuse after each output, but I'm trying to go for a cleaner look.

I'm not concerned about the wire, but the block and fuse design.  Its possible that a block and fuses made for low voltage may not have the insulation to stop a higher voltage from arching over after a fuse blows.  It's possible I'm just being too paranoid, but with pets and a pregnant GF, I can't risk it.  I used to play it fast and loose with this stuff, but not anymore.

Use a fast blow fuse holder (2 side by side) and skip the terminal strip and it'll be clean. Fuses are different for voltage but depending on the load, the distribution block should be fine. Same cheap plastic and metal.

This fuse block, x2

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/54011275?src=pla&008=-99&007=Search&pcrid=15557577904&006=15557577904&005=21882504424&004=4409695744&002=2167139&mkwid=sJXegN7a0%7Cdt&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_sJXegN7a0_PLA__15557577904_t_S&026=-99&025=t

Cool.  Perfect.  I could just "daisy chain" the feed side instead of splitting the single input wire to four pig tails with a wire nut.

Please don't tell me you are planning on using a wire nut on anything automotive? Those are worse than plain vinyl butt connectors, and scotchlocks in an automotive application.


Solder or crimp is my suggestion.

Solder/Crimp/Heatshrink terminals are available, they will run you about $0.50 per but it is well worth it.

lol, no.  Not an automotive or outdoor application.   I have plenty of crimp "ring" style connectors at my disposal.

That would be fine too, assuming the total load is less than the supply. You can neatly mount this in a plastic panel to keep little hands out..

Lol, wut!? While they don't really "belong" in an automotive application, they're not worse.

Wire nuts are worse then pretty much anything in an automotive environment. You've done it, haven't you? HAVEN'T YOU?!? (Former MECP First Class certified)

They are designed for a solid core wire, ala home wiring free from vibration. Not stranded GXL/SXL wiring, as found in an automotive application.

As a wire nut is tightened further on a stranded wire application it further increases the strain on all of the small strands and leads to a higher probability of failure over time. Plus they look like garbage.

If you must have that same look/application, simply use a crimp cap.

I can't say how many times I've had wiring trouble because a po used wire nuts. If I find a wire nut it comes out straight away.

You build this?