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Posted: 7/20/2014 11:01:42 PM EDT
[#1]
I remembered this thread................so, I bought one for my son.
Aloha, Mark |
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Posted: 7/21/2014 8:48:36 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I remembered this thread................so, I bought one for my son. Aloha, Mark Hell yeah! 
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Posted: 7/21/2014 8:52:37 AM EDT
[#3]
I'm getting mine fixed this weekend! The pinion nut backed off and screwed shit up in the diff. Stronger 1.8 open diff going in!!! Btw, Honda sourced the rearend from Mazda for the s2k.
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Posted: 7/21/2014 9:05:15 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote Historylol yep 
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Posted: 7/21/2014 10:04:42 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have to take mine out and have tbem reupholstered anyway, so I am thinking about doing away with the adjustable frame altogether and bolting them flat on the floor all the way back -- should give me an extra inch or two in both directions, but might make getting in and out even more difficult as I get older. 
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
*shrug* just pull some padding out of the seat. No big deal. I have to take mine out and have tbem reupholstered anyway, so I am thinking about doing away with the adjustable frame altogether and bolting them flat on the floor all the way back -- should give me an extra inch or two in both directions, but might make getting in and out even more difficult as I get older.
Commonly done in racing. I can comfortably sit in a Spec Miata at a racetrack. Thin, racing buckets and the seat bolted to the floor. Getting around the roll cage is a whole different thing though |
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Posted: 7/21/2014 10:11:16 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryCouple of coal-rollin' cocksuckers come to shit in the Miata thread.. how quaint.  |
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Posted: 7/21/2014 6:05:23 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Couple of coal-rollin' cocksuckers come to shit in the Miata thread.. how quaint.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Couple of coal-rollin' cocksuckers come to shit in the Miata thread.. how quaint.
Well, we found out who the insecure ones are who need their imaginary "man-card". |
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Posted: 7/21/2014 6:17:21 PM EDT
[#8]
YEAH, YEAH...I GET IT. MIATAS ARE GAY. VERY FUNNY, NATURE.
Godammit. |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 11:19:49 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
YEAH, YEAH...I GET IT. MIATAS ARE GAY. VERY FUNNY, NATURE. http://i58.tinypic.com/14xrno.jpg Godammit. 
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Posted: 7/23/2014 1:08:36 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: YEAH, YEAH...I GET IT. MIATAS ARE GAY. VERY FUNNY, NATURE. http://i58.tinypic.com/14xrno.jpg Godammit. At least your top was up....  I left my top down the other day... and a pigeon roughly the size of the titanic took a shit right in the middle of the drivers seat... Thank God for Neoprene seat covers. Fucking winged rats. |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 1:09:51 PM EDT
[#11]
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Midlifewife crisis? |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 1:10:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, we found out who the insecure ones are who need their imaginary "man-card". Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Couple of coal-rollin' cocksuckers come to shit in the Miata thread.. how quaint. Well, we found out who the insecure ones are who need their imaginary "man-card". It's like I always say... just because you drive a pick up doesn't mean you won't take it in the ass. |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 1:43:32 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Last night, I broke the 2k mile mark. So far, so good. Today, I decided to change the manual transmission fluid. I lifted the car, got the fill plug broken loose, dropped the drain plug, drained the fluid, replaced the drain plug, pumped in the new fluid, and replaced the fill plug. When I slid the drain pan out and slid out from under my car, I looked in the drain pan and saw a washer that had to come from the drain plug. If this was regular motor oil or something, I'd drive it a little to flush out the internals and just change the fluid again. The thing is, I used the Motorcraft Synthetic stuff, and that stuff is like $21 a quart before taxes. I don't know if I'm ready to eat $45 to re-install a washer just in case. How important is that washer? I'm going to be putting the Motorcraft fluid in my car (2001 6-speed) next week. Has it lived up to it's magic elixer m.net reputation in your car?
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Posted: 7/23/2014 8:49:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm going to be putting the Motorcraft fluid in my car (2001 6-speed) next week. Has it lived up to it's magic elixer m.net reputation in your car? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Last night, I broke the 2k mile mark. So far, so good. Today, I decided to change the manual transmission fluid. I lifted the car, got the fill plug broken loose, dropped the drain plug, drained the fluid, replaced the drain plug, pumped in the new fluid, and replaced the fill plug. When I slid the drain pan out and slid out from under my car, I looked in the drain pan and saw a washer that had to come from the drain plug.
If this was regular motor oil or something, I'd drive it a little to flush out the internals and just change the fluid again. The thing is, I used the Motorcraft Synthetic stuff, and that stuff is like $21 a quart before taxes. I don't know if I'm ready to eat $45 to re-install a washer just in case. How important is that washer? I'm going to be putting the Motorcraft fluid in my car (2001 6-speed) next week. Has it lived up to it's magic elixer m.net reputation in your car? I'm not an expert on it, especially given that this is my first manual transmission car, and I have no idea what fluid was in there or for how long. It do think it's a bit smoother, but the one symptom I was hoping to fix is still present. I still sometimes feel a bit of a knock/crunch going into third. Another thing I found odd is that, even after pumping both quarts into the trans, I still couldn't feel any fluid in the fill hole. Either it was at a bad angle or it's low. |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 9:22:13 PM EDT
[#15]
Hey Bass, break free this weekend and come down to North Carolina. We have a huge miata meeting (the largest if not one of the largest gatherings in the USA) at Deal's Gap, N.C. The event is actually held at Fontana.
It starts tomorrow and runs through Sunday. We had a touch over 600 cars last year. It's one huge party, cookouts, beer tasting, hot women, bikini washes, aftermarket manufacturers, and chances to drink & party hard. .. and no, ACME fudge is not represented.
http://gapmiatas.com/ |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 9:23:56 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryIrony, hearing that from the Lotustalk/elisetalk boards.
Women love the car. For a guy that likes to get laid these little cars are a godsend. The only other vehicle that I own which has the same effect is my Ducati. Before I got married women tripped over themselves to be with me. As it stands now I have a jealous enough wife b/c I get hit on all of the time. Just saying.  
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Posted: 7/23/2014 9:35:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think I've decided suspension is next. It's pretty soft and sloppy as is, especially at the rear. Whatever is left of the bump stops is getting beat up on the back roads. I've never done anything with the suspension of a vehicle before, so I'm just starting to do homework. I'm not looking for anything extreme, and I don't really want to lower it. I'd like to keep it under $1k, probably closer to $700. Suggestions? With a car that old I would suggest that you replace the bushings. You can get them replaced for under 1k. Chances are good that your bushings are completely rotten at this point. New bushings can bring the whole car back to life especially considering that you said that it is sloppy. This will significantly fix that. Here are the ones I use: http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5676&parentid=0&stocknumber=13-98120 I have a '90 so by the time I purchased the car it was time for some major suspension work. The bushings made a HUGE difference. |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 9:36:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
From my limited knowledge, the Miata transmission is rather tough. I don't know if that is just because the car is under tired and under diffed which makes the trans the strongest of the 3. I wouldn't worry too much about it. As long as you have at least some financial safety margin you will be fine. A transmission is relatively dirt cheap. I'm in the process of burning up my clutch because I don't like it and it has shudder issues. I make the bad clutch go away.  Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
No, syncro should work if the vehicle is in motion. I was talking about trouble getting into 1st while stopped. I assume that isn't an issue for you? I definitely feel the occasional added resistance while driving. Is there a possible issue with the transmission? From my limited knowledge, the Miata transmission is rather tough. I don't know if that is just because the car is under tired and under diffed which makes the trans the strongest of the 3. I wouldn't worry too much about it. As long as you have at least some financial safety margin you will be fine. A transmission is relatively dirt cheap. I'm in the process of burning up my clutch because I don't like it and it has shudder issues. I make the bad clutch go away. You're right on. FWIW, the Miata has a diesel truck transmission and that's why it's such a tough MFer.
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Posted: 7/23/2014 9:42:27 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm not an expert on it, especially given that this is my first manual transmission car, and I have no idea what fluid was in there or for how long. It do think it's a bit smoother, but the one symptom I was hoping to fix is still present. I still sometimes feel a bit of a knock/crunch going into third. Another thing I found odd is that, even after pumping both quarts into the trans, I still couldn't feel any fluid in the fill hole. Either it was at a bad angle or it's low. You might as well replace all of the fluids if you get a chance. Do you know where things stand with the engine belts? it might be time to change those also and while you are at it get the timing advanced a bit (it'll make the car much peppier). |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 9:49:24 PM EDT
[#20]
I was never really into Miatas, but after attending a few autocross events, they look like fun(nohomo.) I'd drive one
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Posted: 7/23/2014 11:14:50 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
With a car that old I would suggest that you replace the bushings. You can get them replaced for under 1k. Chances are good that your bushings are completely rotten at this point. New bushings can bring the whole car back to life especially considering that you said that it is sloppy. This will significantly fix that. Here are the ones I use: http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5676&parentid=0&stocknumber=13-98120 I have a '90 so by the time I purchased the car it was time for some major suspension work. The bushings made a HUGE difference. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I think I've decided suspension is next. It's pretty soft and sloppy as is, especially at the rear. Whatever is left of the bump stops is getting beat up on the back roads. I've never done anything with the suspension of a vehicle before, so I'm just starting to do homework. I'm not looking for anything extreme, and I don't really want to lower it. I'd like to keep it under $1k, probably closer to $700. Suggestions? With a car that old I would suggest that you replace the bushings. You can get them replaced for under 1k. Chances are good that your bushings are completely rotten at this point. New bushings can bring the whole car back to life especially considering that you said that it is sloppy. This will significantly fix that. Here are the ones I use: http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5676&parentid=0&stocknumber=13-98120 I have a '90 so by the time I purchased the car it was time for some major suspension work. The bushings made a HUGE difference. It's looking like most of the larger line items I'd like to tackle would be better if saved for the winter months. Are those bushings in DIY range, or do they involve tools and knowledge I most likely don't have? |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 11:22:12 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's looking like most of the larger line items I'd like to tackle would be better if saved for the winter months. Are those bushings in DIY range, or do they involve tools and knowledge I most likely don't have? It's something you can do yourself but you're going to need a lift and a lot of time. There are a couple of ways you can get them out. You can use a torch and simply melt the fuckers out, or you can get a harbor freight ball joint tool. I'd melt them out because its a lot more fun. You'll need a lot of grease both on and around the bushing. Rubber ones are tougher to put in than the poly ones, but on the upside they squeak a hell of a lot less (you have to lube the poly ones regularly) and are not as sloppy. While we're on this subject. Look over the nuts and bolts underneath. If they are rusted you might consider replacing them while you are at it. If you are going to put in a new suspension you might as well rebuild the whole thing at this point. ~20 years is a long time, especially if the car is from the North. The upside to all of this extra work is that the car will handle like an Elise and you'll be good for another 20 years worth of intense driving. Watch these: 
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Posted: 7/23/2014 11:33:10 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You might as well replace all of the fluids if you get a chance. Do you know where things stand with the engine belts? it might be time to change those also and while you are at it get the timing advanced a bit (it'll make the car much peppier). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm not an expert on it, especially given that this is my first manual transmission car, and I have no idea what fluid was in there or for how long. It do think it's a bit smoother, but the one symptom I was hoping to fix is still present. I still sometimes feel a bit of a knock/crunch going into third. Another thing I found odd is that, even after pumping both quarts into the trans, I still couldn't feel any fluid in the fill hole. Either it was at a bad angle or it's low. You might as well replace all of the fluids if you get a chance. Do you know where things stand with the engine belts? it might be time to change those also and while you are at it get the timing advanced a bit (it'll make the car much peppier). At this point, I've changed the oil and the transmission fluid. I'd like to think the clutch fluid was changed with the clutch. The coolant and the brake fluid both look good. I haven't really looked at the belts yet. Timing is on my list of things to check. The car has a bit of a misfire at idle, but I've already changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I'm guessing it's either timing or the coil pack. I've never done anything with the timing on a vehicle before, so that should be fun. |
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Posted: 7/23/2014 11:37:28 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
At this point, I've changed the oil and the transmission fluid. I'd like to think the clutch fluid was changed with the clutch. The coolant and the brake fluid both look good. I haven't really looked at the belts yet. Timing is on my list of things to check. The car has a bit of a misfire at idle, but I've already changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I'm guessing it's either timing or the coil pack. I've never done anything with the timing on a vehicle before, so that should be fun. Nice - setting the timing on a Miata is easy, there is lots of room in the engine bay. 10 bucks on the culprit being your coil pack. My problem with the miata is that its like BRD, once you start buying black rifles and working on them you can't stop.
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Posted: 7/23/2014 11:47:13 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice - setting the timing on a Miata is easy, there is lots of room in the engine bay. 10 bucks on the culprit being your coil pack. My problem with the miata is that its like BRD, once you start buying black rifles and working on them you can't stop. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
At this point, I've changed the oil and the transmission fluid. I'd like to think the clutch fluid was changed with the clutch. The coolant and the brake fluid both look good. I haven't really looked at the belts yet. Timing is on my list of things to check. The car has a bit of a misfire at idle, but I've already changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I'm guessing it's either timing or the coil pack. I've never done anything with the timing on a vehicle before, so that should be fun. Nice - setting the timing on a Miata is easy, there is lots of room in the engine bay. 10 bucks on the culprit being your coil pack. My problem with the miata is that its like BRD, once you start buying black rifles and working on them you can't stop. But I don't want it to be the coil pack. Those things are $250, and it's not even a fun add-on.
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Posted: 7/28/2014 8:08:53 PM EDT
[#26]
Today was the first time I drove the car since Wednesday.
When I started it, I was met with some rather loud valve/lifter tapping noise. I checked the oil level, and it's dead on. I let it idle while I dropped the top and installed the boot, and then began driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it quieted down, and the sound ultimately disappeared. Is this common? |
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Posted: 7/28/2014 8:16:26 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Today was the first time I drove the car since Wednesday.
When I started it, I was met with some rather loud valve/lifter tapping noise. I checked the oil level, and it's dead on. I let it idle while I dropped the top and installed the boot, and then began driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it quieted down, and the sound ultimately disappeared. Is this common? On an older motor (NA) it is very common. Don't freak out
You can either put up with it, or experiment with different oil weights and types until you find one that will quiet the lifter noise. It is not a sign of trouble - just old age. More info: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=161148 |
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Posted: 7/28/2014 8:40:49 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Today was the first time I drove the car since Wednesday.
When I started it, I was met with some rather loud valve/lifter tapping noise. I checked the oil level, and it's dead on. I let it idle while I dropped the top and installed the boot, and then began driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it quieted down, and the sound ultimately disappeared. Is this common? Lifter tick is pretty common in Miatas. It's not something you can really get around. Change the oil, and eventually the noise will come back. |
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Posted: 7/29/2014 11:12:58 AM EDT
[#29]
Some use the noise as a oil life indicator. Mechanical, but effective I'm sure.
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Posted: 7/29/2014 11:30:54 AM EDT
[#30]
I just replaced the left rear bearing on mine. It was LOUD.
Pray you have the money to just pay somebody to do this.
What a royal pain in the fucking ass. |
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Posted: 8/3/2014 10:09:46 PM EDT
[#31]
The valve tapping hasn't happened again since. I'm guessing they were just a bit dry or something.
The pop-up headlights make for one hell of a flyswatter.
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Posted: 8/4/2014 3:28:10 AM EDT
[#32]
Nobody in DFW has an affordable manual NB with decent mileage
Tempted to just get another NA but I really, really want an NB...
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Posted: 8/4/2014 7:56:23 AM EDT
[#33]
I have a '00 I bought in '08 from a elderly gentleman with 24K miles. He babied it. Still had the OEM Pilots with decent tread. The car was a Calif. C.A.R.B. car with the upper CAT in the exhaust manifold. My first mod was to relocate the O2 sensors and install headers. Next was a CAI cold air intake. Next I fabbed a oil filter relocation system to move the filter to behind the passenger side headlight. It uses a huge V-8 1515 filter that holds almost a quart so I increased my oil capacity with the filter and braided lines to almost 5 quarts. The OEM gauges are a joke. The OEM oil pressure gauge reads right in the middle with 5 or 50 lbs of pressure. The temp gauge reads in the middle around 10 minutes before the oil and water are truly up to operating temp. And won't show a hot condition until the engine is already in a catastrophic overheated state. I discarded the cassette player and lowered the head unit into it's place and fabbed a three gauge cluster of Auto Meter Oil pressure, Oil temp a coolant temp gauges there. I hated the OEM Green gauge illumination so I pulled the cluster removed the green tint and with a change of bulbs It's now red. I also installed a front shock tower brace to help minimize cowl shake and a free flow exhaust from the CAT back.
I like working on this little go cart and in the upcoming years plan on installing a intercooled turbo, oil cooler, bigger radiator, comp clutch, ladder frame support and coil overs. Once you get the bug, it never stops. |
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Posted: 8/6/2014 8:53:59 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nobody in DFW has an affordable manual NB with decent mileage Tempted to just get another NA but I really, really want an NB...If you buy a 94-97, you get the benefits of the 1.8 with the lighter weight of the NA... |
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Posted: 8/6/2014 10:07:36 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you buy a 94-97, you get the benefits of the 1.8 with the lighter weight of the NA... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Nobody in DFW has an affordable manual NB with decent mileage Tempted to just get another NA but I really, really want an NB...If you buy a 94-97, you get the benefits of the 1.8 with the lighter weight of the NA... I like the looks of the NB 
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Posted: 9/5/2014 3:06:42 PM EDT
[#36]
It happened...
I was driving my Civic up to a stop sign when I tried to push my non-existent clutch. I always thought those comments were BS.
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Posted: 9/5/2014 3:16:47 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It happened... I was driving my Civic up to a stop sign when I tried to push my non-existent clutch. I always thought those comments were BS. I would ask if anyone of you guys is getting a new Miata, but this is arfcom and there are never any excuses for an ND... |
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Posted: 9/5/2014 5:28:34 PM EDT
[#38]
Yeah, I'm buying one.
I just need a larger garage. 
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Posted: 10/10/2014 9:57:15 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah, I'm buying one. I just need a larger garage. And?
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Posted: 10/12/2014 8:09:52 PM EDT
[#40]
After having this thing for 6 months, I think the biggest complaint I can come up with is the placement of the oil filter. I just changed the oil for the second time today, and getting that filter out sucked. I had to go buy a cap style oil filter wrench. (I usually use the strap style.) The part that baffles me the most about it is that I was able to remove the filter that was in it when I bought it by hand, and I installed the last one by hand, but the wrench was the only way I could get it back out. I have it if I need it in the future, and I'll remember to keep the right side of the car open for future oil changes.
I guess if that's the worst of my troubles, I'm in pretty good shape. |
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Posted: 10/12/2014 9:58:57 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The valve tapping hasn't happened again since. I'm guessing they were just a bit dry or something. The pop-up headlights make for one hell of a flyswatter.
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k620/Bassgasm1/Miata/Miatabugs1_zpsa4931015.jpg http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k620/Bassgasm1/Miata/Miataheadlightbugs_zpsc6070db2.jpg It's a pretty well documented issue. If I remember correctly, the oil passages in the rocker arms are to small. I don't think it causes any damage, it's just annoying. I run a quart of 0-40 mobile one with 10-30 gtx, and it seems to help |
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Posted: 10/13/2014 8:29:17 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a pretty well documented issue. If I remember correctly, the oil passages in the rocker arms are to small. I don't think it causes any damage, it's just annoying. I run a quart of 0-40 mobile one with 10-30 gtx, and it seems to help Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The valve tapping hasn't happened again since. I'm guessing they were just a bit dry or something. The pop-up headlights make for one hell of a flyswatter.
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k620/Bassgasm1/Miata/Miatabugs1_zpsa4931015.jpg http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k620/Bassgasm1/Miata/Miataheadlightbugs_zpsc6070db2.jpg It's a pretty well documented issue. If I remember correctly, the oil passages in the rocker arms are to small. I don't think it causes any damage, it's just annoying. I run a quart of 0-40 mobile one with 10-30 gtx, and it seems to help Even after not having an opportunity to drive it for an unfortunately long time (letting it sit for a week+), I still haven't heard it since. After ~3,500 miles, I decided to end my first oil change interval. One of AutoZone's combo sales was Mobile 1 synthetic with a Bosch filter for $33, so that's what went in. I think I'll probably run this oil for 5k. |
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Posted: 10/13/2014 9:44:34 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It happened... I was driving my Civic up to a stop sign when I tried to push my non-existent clutch. I always thought those comments were BS. After a weekend of driving my Porsche or my RX7, it takes about half a day on Mondays for me to stop reaching for the clutch pedal. 
BTW, I am hearing some rumors of a new RX7 based on the same platform as the new MX5s. Back to being a lightweight. Gonna keep up with the story. |
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Posted: 10/13/2014 9:46:15 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Even after not having an opportunity to drive it for an unfortunately long time (letting it sit for a week+), I still haven't heard it since. After ~3,500 miles, I decided to end my first oil change interval. One of AutoZone's combo sales was Mobile 1 synthetic with a Bosch filter for $33, so that's what went in. I think I'll probably run this oil for 5k. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The valve tapping hasn't happened again since. I'm guessing they were just a bit dry or something. The pop-up headlights make for one hell of a flyswatter.
http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k620/Bassgasm1/Miata/Miatabugs1_zpsa4931015.jpg http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k620/Bassgasm1/Miata/Miataheadlightbugs_zpsc6070db2.jpg It's a pretty well documented issue. If I remember correctly, the oil passages in the rocker arms are to small. I don't think it causes any damage, it's just annoying. I run a quart of 0-40 mobile one with 10-30 gtx, and it seems to help Even after not having an opportunity to drive it for an unfortunately long time (letting it sit for a week+), I still haven't heard it since. After ~3,500 miles, I decided to end my first oil change interval. One of AutoZone's combo sales was Mobile 1 synthetic with a Bosch filter for $33, so that's what went in. I think I'll probably run this oil for 5k. My 929 (Mazda sedan) with the 3 liter V6 will do that from time to time. It's the HLAs (hydraulic lash adjusters) and it doesn't really hurt anything. |
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Posted: 11/2/2014 6:44:17 PM EDT
[#45]
I took it out for what might be the last top-down drive of the year. The weather has been mostly good in the last month or so, but I've been so busy, I haven't been able to take advantage of it.
I was planning to spend a good chunk of October through March upgrading it, but I can't seem to stop buying guns and ammo.
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Posted: 11/28/2014 9:54:20 PM EDT
[#46]
Either I have a problem with parasitic draw, or I have a battery going south.
I've let the car sit a little too long as I have been busy and the weather has been unusually cold. I tried to start it tonight just for the hell of it, and it didn't have enough juice to crank. |
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Posted: 11/28/2014 11:10:37 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Either I have a problem with parasitic draw, or I have a battery going south. I've let the car sit a little too long as I have been busy and the weather has been unusually cold. I tried to start it tonight just for the hell of it, and it didn't have enough juice to crank. Does it have a security system? Does the radio draw current for station and clock memory? How long did it sit? Old battery? |
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Posted: 12/28/2014 1:29:09 PM EDT
[#48]
Excellent thread!! Just got done reading through all 8 pages. Gives me a lot of things to look at/for/consider. Personally I want a 94-97 NA for the larger engine but cheaper cost to play.
I can easily work on American and Subaru vehicles. However, some of the engine and clutch work I'm reading about in here I'm not sure what all is involved/needed. Need to educate myself more there and that doesn't mean I'll be able to do the work. It would just let me know what I'd be potentially paying someone else for or looking for when buying the vehicle. -Emt1581 |
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Posted: 12/28/2014 8:56:00 PM EDT
[#49]
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Just barely! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
In before Subnet <Don Adams voice> "Missed it by THAT MUCH." |
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Posted: 1/16/2015 9:45:16 PM EDT
[#50]
The weather is unusually good for the weekend, so I decided to take it out.
The car had been sitting over a month since the last time I started it. It obviously didn't start on it's own. I let it idle for ~15-20 minutes, and it didn't restart on its own. I drove it 14 miles, parked it for 4hrs, and it didn't restart. I think I'm going to grab a trickle charger and see how that goes. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does it have a security system? Does the radio draw current for station and clock memory? How long did it sit? Old battery? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Either I have a problem with parasitic draw, or I have a battery going south. I've let the car sit a little too long as I have been busy and the weather has been unusually cold. I tried to start it tonight just for the hell of it, and it didn't have enough juice to crank. Does it have a security system? Does the radio draw current for station and clock memory? How long did it sit? Old battery? There's no security system. I think the radio must draw something, but it's a single-DIN Pioneer system from the early 2000s, so I can't imagine it'd be too much. I have no idea how old this battery is, but I'm reading that it's an AGM that won't just recharge with a bit of driving like the usual lead acid batteries. |
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