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Regardless of whether you are shooting full-auto or not, the shorter the barrel the faster you'll wear out a suppressor shooting 5.56mm. IMO, I would not go with titanium if I was going to be doing most of my shooting with a 14.5" or less. View Quote I've read about the theoretical issues with short barrels and Ti suppressors, but haven't seen much in the way of evidence. One of the reasons I chose the Trek-T is that its blast baffle is Iconel (not Ti) and it's "rated" for use on 10.5" barrels. I'm also willing to accept some tradeoff in longevity in exchange for the weight advantage. My goal is to have a suppressed SBR that's as short and light as reasonably possible while still performing as needed. While I don't consider a suppressor to be a "wear item" or disposable like a magazine, I also don't expect it to last forever. If its performance is diminished from erosion after 10K rounds, I've still gotten my moneys worth out of it. |
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Quoted: Wouldn't the baffles still be steel? The better heat conduction of Al. vs. Ti should also mean quicker cooling View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Why not hard anodized aluminum instead of titanium? Wouldn't the baffles still be steel? The better heat conduction of Al. vs. Ti should also mean quicker cooling I thought aluminum was for regular rimfire use only .....no? And Titanium will withstand higher heat than steels . Inconel even more . |
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this. . Buy the 30 caliber can so you can use it on both. I wish I'd have done that years ago when I had the money for a suppressor. got a 223 can instead because I didn't think about it. .. I just didn't know at the time. Hind sight is 20/20, so learn from my mistake Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If you're only buying one can get a .308 instead of a 5.56. this. . Buy the 30 caliber can so you can use it on both. I wish I'd have done that years ago when I had the money for a suppressor. got a 223 can instead because I didn't think about it. .. I just didn't know at the time. Hind sight is 20/20, so learn from my mistake Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I was told this also but I bought my Huntertown Arms in 5.56 because it comes apart for cleaning and I can use it on .22LR also. It is heavy but when it is on a SBR it won't be bad. |
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I've read about the theoretical issues with short barrels and Ti suppressors, but haven't seen much in the way of evidence. One of the reasons I chose the Trek-T is that its blast baffle is Iconel (not Ti) and it's "rated" for use on 10.5" barrels. I'm also willing to accept some tradeoff in longevity in exchange for the weight advantage. My goal is to have a suppressed SBR that's as short and light as reasonably possible while still performing as needed. While I don't consider a suppressor to be a "wear item" or disposable like a magazine, I also don't expect it to last forever. If its performance is diminished from erosion after 10K rounds, I've still gotten my moneys worth out of it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Regardless of whether you are shooting full-auto or not, the shorter the barrel the faster you'll wear out a suppressor shooting 5.56mm. IMO, I would not go with titanium if I was going to be doing most of my shooting with a 14.5" or less. I've read about the theoretical issues with short barrels and Ti suppressors, but haven't seen much in the way of evidence. One of the reasons I chose the Trek-T is that its blast baffle is Iconel (not Ti) and it's "rated" for use on 10.5" barrels. I'm also willing to accept some tradeoff in longevity in exchange for the weight advantage. My goal is to have a suppressed SBR that's as short and light as reasonably possible while still performing as needed. While I don't consider a suppressor to be a "wear item" or disposable like a magazine, I also don't expect it to last forever. If its performance is diminished from erosion after 10K rounds, I've still gotten my moneys worth out of it. I agree with what you're saying, and if it were only a matter of buying a new suppressor when the old one wears out, that would not be a big deal. The year wait on NFA approval to get a replacement is what concerns me. When I ordered my M4-2000, I called AAC to discuss the life expectancy of the unit. I was told by AAC that using their muzzle brake adapter would double the life of the suppressor vs. using their flash hider adapter. The tech told me to expect about an 8000 round life using the flash hider adapter and about 16,000 rounds if using the muzzle brake adapter. As a humorous note to this, the suppressor salesman at the LGS told me to expect 100,0000 round life under extreme full-auto fire and he went on to say he witnessed 20,000 rounds of full-auto fire being fired through a M4-2000 in one afternoon with zero wear on the unit. |
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this thread does not suck
lots of good info... have been buying hosts for suppresors for a while now still havent made the jump though |
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As someone who is still in the "one of these days" window shopping stage, I would suggest a) reading everything you can find online about the pros & cons of materials, brands, mounts, ect - be as educated a shopper as you can be, and b) get out and do some shooting with guys who have suppressors. On one hand it'll make you want one even more, and on the other hand you'll go into it with realistic expectations.
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You guy’s complaining about the weight of a M4-2000 need to put down the twinkies and hit the gym.
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Quoted: Heat resistance would still be an issue. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Why not hard anodized aluminum instead of titanium? Unless you have a full auto, or you are doing multiple mag dumps out of an pistol, you'll be hard pressed to overheat a .22lr suppressor. I have a prodigy, and even though it's 100% AL, it's still full auto rated. |
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don't buy a threaded one unless you're running a bolt gun. I have had it back off. I have caught it though before bad things happened.
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don't buy a threaded one unless you're running a bolt gun. I have had it back off. I have caught it though before bad things happened. View Quote I'm glad this thread came up! So if I was going to buy a .22 LR suppressor to use on a Buckmark and a couple of CZ 452's (Military Trainer and Lux, not the American), what would be the best thing to do for mounting? |
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Quoted: I'm glad this thread came up! So if I was going to buy a .22 LR suppressor to use on a Buckmark and a couple of CZ 452's (Military Trainer and Lux, not the American), what would be the best thing to do for mounting? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: don't buy a threaded one unless you're running a bolt gun. I have had it back off. I have caught it though before bad things happened. I'm glad this thread came up! So if I was going to buy a .22 LR suppressor to use on a Buckmark and a couple of CZ 452's (Military Trainer and Lux, not the American), what would be the best thing to do for mounting? IMO, it's not an issue with .22lr, there is simply not enough violence in play to unscrew a properly tightened suppressor. Mine has never started to back out, though my screw on 9mm has... |
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Interesting way to carry a cleaning rod... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If you're only buying one can get a SureFire .308 instead of a 5.56. Correct, with a slight addition. This thread needs more pics. <a href="http://s400.photobucket.com/user/223556762308/media/IMG_1393_zpscff8d005.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp84/223556762308/IMG_1393_zpscff8d005.jpg</a> Interesting way to carry a cleaning rod... Ever have someone have a stuck (wolf/Tula) case? |
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IMO, it's not an issue with .22lr, there is simply not enough violence in play to unscrew a properly tightened suppressor. Mine has never started to back out, though my screw on 9mm has... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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don't buy a threaded one unless you're running a bolt gun. I have had it back off. I have caught it though before bad things happened. I'm glad this thread came up! So if I was going to buy a .22 LR suppressor to use on a Buckmark and a couple of CZ 452's (Military Trainer and Lux, not the American), what would be the best thing to do for mounting? IMO, it's not an issue with .22lr, there is simply not enough violence in play to unscrew a properly tightened suppressor. Mine has never started to back out, though my screw on 9mm has... this is correct. .22 is a non issue. I have one as well. Tons of fun, they are. |
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You want a short can and a light one. When in doubt get a longer barrel and shorter can. 30 caliber bores are fine but full sized 30 caliber cans are a bear to swing. In some cases they are as long as the barrel they are mounted to.
There are various attributes you can choose from but you can't have it all. POI shift weight length attachment method price dB reduction I value POI shift and attachment method over dB reduction and lower price, so I have a couple of Surefires. |
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Quoted: this thread does not suck lots of good info... have been buying hosts for suppresors for a while now still havent made the jump though View Quote Your order is out of whack! Get suppressors in the pipeline ASAP and buy your hosts in the waiting period. Get your paperwork in NOW NOW NOW.
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Lots of good advice in here so far.
My suggestion: Research all of your options first, and then prioritize based on features. There are trade offs with everything, so consider what features are most important to you and then decide from there. Don't just buy something because a friend or fellow forum member recommended it. 7.62 cans can also be used for 5.56 effectively, but they're larger and heavier (which is why I prefer a dedicated 5.56 can). QD mounts are quick and easy, but buying several mounts add up. Titanium is nice for the weight, but it's more expensive and many TI cans aren't rated for full auto use (although some are). And I agree with the poster who said cans are not really a life-long purchase. The process to buy them is long, and they will last a very long time, if you buy a quality model. But they're like buying a home or a car. Eventually, you will upgrade, decide to buy more, or even just wear the suppressor out. Take the time to make a smart decision, but don't feel like you're committed to a silencer for the rest of your life. Even if you can't/don't resell it, you can always upgrade or buy new. Stretched over the lifetime of the can, the wait time and the purchase price are not that bad. |
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I love my Gemtech G5 w/ the quick-mount.
It is still loud but it completely alters and diffuses the sound signature to the point where it may not be recognizable as gunfire from a distance or through heavy brush. One quick pull and twist and I have an 11.5" SBR ready to go. |
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I have a gemtech trek that I like a lot,I have had it for two years with no problems;I use it for .556 and a 22lr upper.It is very quiet and accurate.It is the basic, low cost model.
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I wish I would have spent the extra ~$200 for a titanium can... Stainless steel is HEAVY on the end of a 16" rifle. Granted, I love my suppressor, but lighter would have been better. Also, don't breathe through your nose while shooting suppressed...with an AR View Quote Fixed it for ya. |
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Quoted: A dab of threadlock is your friend. So are nail polish witness marks where the can meets the barrel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: don't buy a threaded one unless you're running a bolt gun. I have had it back off. I have caught it though before bad things happened. A dab of threadlock is your friend. So are nail polish witness marks where the can meets the barrel. |
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I want to make a comment on the "it's not quiet" remarks. A 556 certainly isn't like on TV with a can, but it is a hell of a lot quieter with a can than not. I feel like my 556 can is about like shooting a 22Mag and really not that bad of a crack. Even guys like TGR and DPeacher who are used to shooting with cans a lot think my YHM 556 can is pretty damned quiet. It makes it to where you can shoot in the open without ear pro, which is the whole idea behind owning a can IMO. The only problem is it is too damned heavy. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/krpind/image_zps0dcb86f4.jpg I need to replace the UBR, I want to dimple the barrel, but can't get anyone to call me back about doing it. I might SBR it and go with a 12.5, with the dedicated can. Does anyone know what the net result of a 12.5 with a dedicated can is compared to a 14.5" velocity loss wise with a 75 gr TAP 223? View Quote I have an SDN6, which IMO is a good jack of all trades can. On my 556 guns it sounds like about a 22 rim fire. Technically not hearing safe, but I can shoot it with no hearing protection and it isn't painful or uncomfortable at all. I use it on a couple precision guns as well, one of the mounts locked up tight off the bat and the other needed just a touch of polishing to get that last click. I know that isnt reccomended, but it seemed to help consistency. I've found it seems to have a pretty consistent .6 mil shift down in POI on both. I soak the mount, teeth, threads, and ratchet pretty liberally in fireclean when mounting it, that seems to help keep it from locking up from carbon. BTW, has anyone else burned the paint off their can? The middle of mine is a nice bronze color... |
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Quoted: And spend the extra cash on titanium, stainless is too heavy for 3 gun matches Free View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: And spend the extra cash on titanium, stainless is too heavy for 3 gun matches Free Quoted: If you're only buying one can get a .308 instead of a 5.56. Did you ever have a problem with a shot timer using a can?
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When I ordered my M4-2000, I called AAC to discuss the life expectancy of the unit. I was told by AAC that using their muzzle brake adapter would double the life of the suppressor vs. using their flash hider adapter. The tech told me to expect about an 8000 round life using the flash hider adapter and about 16,000 rounds if using the muzzle brake adapter. As a humorous note to this, the suppressor salesman at the LGS told me to expect 100,0000 round life under extreme full-auto fire and he went on to say he witnessed 20,000 rounds of full-auto fire being fired through a M4-2000 in one afternoon with zero wear on the unit. View Quote These are from another member (WI57, in this thread: here) Few hundred rounds: Over 6000: These are what made me get the brake for my 10.5" 5.56 SBR to run with my 762SDN6. |
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I got into the NFA game late and am still kicking myself in the ass over it don't be me and have regrets, the sooner the better!! (i'm playing a pretty good game of catch-up though) <a href="http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/texrdnec/media/970ED00C-FCE7-4265-8FF4-7AEE5E27F72A-735-00000103EC7E4D51_zps9756b284.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s482/texrdnec/970ED00C-FCE7-4265-8FF4-7AEE5E27F72A-735-00000103EC7E4D51_zps9756b284.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1054.photobucket.com/user/texrdnec/media/B1C7FF5F-C186-4CE3-8969-84DE28C159B6-17116-0000158613820CB3_zpsae4a34af.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s482/texrdnec/B1C7FF5F-C186-4CE3-8969-84DE28C159B6-17116-0000158613820CB3_zpsae4a34af.jpg</a> View Quote Nice family portrait , I recently got that same Savage .22 with a Nikon Pro-Staff (3-9x40), and really, really like it a lot. Been shooting it everyday. |
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BTW, has anyone else burned the paint off their can? The middle of mine is a nice bronze color... View Quote It happens. Rapid fire will cause it to discolor even faster. I have a Gemtech Halo that was painted with high-temp FDE paint, and has been used on an 11.5" under full auto fire. It now ranges from dark brown to light pink, and the paint is cracking near the endcap. But it still sounds good. |
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These are from another member (WI57, in this thread: here) Few hundred rounds: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/P4131805.jpg Over 6000: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152023.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152022.jpg These are what made me get the brake for my 10.5" 5.56 SBR to run with my 762SDN6. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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When I ordered my M4-2000, I called AAC to discuss the life expectancy of the unit. I was told by AAC that using their muzzle brake adapter would double the life of the suppressor vs. using their flash hider adapter. The tech told me to expect about an 8000 round life using the flash hider adapter and about 16,000 rounds if using the muzzle brake adapter. As a humorous note to this, the suppressor salesman at the LGS told me to expect 100,0000 round life under extreme full-auto fire and he went on to say he witnessed 20,000 rounds of full-auto fire being fired through a M4-2000 in one afternoon with zero wear on the unit. These are from another member (WI57, in this thread: here) Few hundred rounds: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/P4131805.jpg Over 6000: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152023.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152022.jpg These are what made me get the brake for my 10.5" 5.56 SBR to run with my 762SDN6. Yep....my AAC Brake on a 12.5" looks about like this pic and I have put about 400 rounds thru it |
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Quoted: Yep....my AAC Brake on a 12.5" looks about like this pic and I have put about 400 rounds thru it http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/P4131805.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: When I ordered my M4-2000, I called AAC to discuss the life expectancy of the unit. I was told by AAC that using their muzzle brake adapter would double the life of the suppressor vs. using their flash hider adapter. The tech told me to expect about an 8000 round life using the flash hider adapter and about 16,000 rounds if using the muzzle brake adapter. As a humorous note to this, the suppressor salesman at the LGS told me to expect 100,0000 round life under extreme full-auto fire and he went on to say he witnessed 20,000 rounds of full-auto fire being fired through a M4-2000 in one afternoon with zero wear on the unit. These are from another member (WI57, in this thread: here) Few hundred rounds: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/P4131805.jpg Over 6000: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152023.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152022.jpg These are what made me get the brake for my 10.5" 5.56 SBR to run with my 762SDN6. Yep....my AAC Brake on a 12.5" looks about like this pic and I have put about 400 rounds thru it http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/P4131805.jpg Doesn't the warranty stipulate a barrel length? |
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My only experience with them is a couple mags through a buddy's work gun (Colt Commando) with an AAC can. I got bukakked with gas in the face. I would think some sort of 'gas buster' charging handle would be beneficial. All rounds fired were in F/A. Maybe semi isnt as bad. I dunno. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote I have no problems at all with my 11.5"... BCM upper and barrel with a SWR Specwar 556. Plain-old CH too, not a gas buster or anything. |
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Doesn't the warranty stipulate a barrel length? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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When I ordered my M4-2000, I called AAC to discuss the life expectancy of the unit. I was told by AAC that using their muzzle brake adapter would double the life of the suppressor vs. using their flash hider adapter. The tech told me to expect about an 8000 round life using the flash hider adapter and about 16,000 rounds if using the muzzle brake adapter. As a humorous note to this, the suppressor salesman at the LGS told me to expect 100,0000 round life under extreme full-auto fire and he went on to say he witnessed 20,000 rounds of full-auto fire being fired through a M4-2000 in one afternoon with zero wear on the unit. These are from another member (WI57, in this thread: here) Few hundred rounds: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/P4131805.jpg Over 6000: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152023.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/PA152022.jpg These are what made me get the brake for my 10.5" 5.56 SBR to run with my 762SDN6. Yep....my AAC Brake on a 12.5" looks about like this pic and I have put about 400 rounds thru it http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gi57/M4-2000/P4131805.jpg Doesn't the warranty stipulate a barrel length? I believe AAC warranties the M4-2000 only if the barrel is 10" or more. |
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Did you ever have a problem with a shot timer using a can? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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And spend the extra cash on titanium, stainless is too heavy for 3 gun matches Free Quoted:
If you're only buying one can get a .308 instead of a 5.56. Did you ever have a problem with a shot timer using a can? I've run people using suppressors and it they pick up 5.56 just fine. One guy decided to use a plastic barrel as a rest about 60 rounds into a stage and it melted right around the can. Only time I had trouble picking up shots was a few years ago a guy was running a suppressor on a Skorpion type carbine, I think in 32 ACP. I couldn't pick up the shots unless I had the timer a foot or less from his bolt. I resorted to just tapping the side of the case as he shot so I wouldn't get in the shooters way. His equipment wasn't legal under the rules anyway, it was just a local match and he wanted to shoot it so we let him. |
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Doesn't the warranty stipulate a barrel length? View Quote IIRC, the SDN6 min barrel length for 5.56 is down around 7.5", but I can't find the reference right now. I seem to recall discussion that the larger bore allowed a shorter barrel than the M4-2K. The brochure states 12.5" for .308 and 7" for .300blk. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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My 30 cal Ti YHM is about half of my stainless YHM 5.56 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Just looking learn from others experience. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile How much lighter and corrosion resistant titanium is over stainless steel? Lighter? A freaking ton when it is on the end of a rifle. My 30 cal Ti YHM is about half of my stainless YHM 5.56 That sounds about right. The recently discontinued YHM stainless .30 Phantom was 28 oz and the new M2 revision is 25 oz. The YHM titanium .30 Phantom is 15 oz. The new Phantom .30 LT is all stainless and inconel like the regular Phantom. It splits the difference at 20 oz and supposedly offers better sound reduction. That is what I bought. All those weights are for the QD versions. |
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Quoted: I got into the NFA game late and am still kicking myself in the ass over it don't be me and have regrets, the sooner the better!! (i'm playing a pretty good game of catch-up though) http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s482/texrdnec/970ED00C-FCE7-4265-8FF4-7AEE5E27F72A-735-00000103EC7E4D51_zps9756b284.jpg http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/s482/texrdnec/B1C7FF5F-C186-4CE3-8969-84DE28C159B6-17116-0000158613820CB3_zpsae4a34af.jpg View Quote Yeah, you done good.
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Great thread. My 2 cents.
1. Cans are heavy. The lighter the better. Don't forget that on top of a 16-20oz+ can you also have to run a mount that weighs 3-4ozs, a meaningful increase over an A2 FH. 2. Because of this, running a full size can on a 16"+ barrel sucks if you mostly shoot offhand. Get an SBR if you can. 3. Once you get an SBR, you'll realize that your blasting your can with tons of unburned powder. A brake fixes this, but shooting your SBR without the can now sucks. 4. Running a can introduces a lot of back pressure into your operating system and now your gun is overgassed. Consider a small gas port barrel or an adjustable gas block. 5. A solid mounting system is important. It helps mitigate POI shift, makes the can easier to take off after some carbon build up, etc. 6. Don't get hung up on dB differences. They are all "loud" and sound similar at the shooters ear. Focus on size, weight, and mounting system. 7. Cans get hot fast. Don't get a thread on can thinking you'll be able to just tighten it down between magazines. And yes, get a .22 can to start. |
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My only experience with them is a couple mags through a buddy's work gun (Colt Commando) with an AAC can. I got bukakked with gas in the face. I would think some sort of 'gas buster' charging handle would be beneficial. All rounds fired were in F/A. Maybe semi isnt as bad. I dunno. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote Gas Buster and all those gimmick solutions don't work. Charging handles, forward assists, holes, whatever, none of it works, save your $100 and don't fund snake oil salesmen. RTV gasket maker trick. It's the only solution. |
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That there are always better deals to be had.
My first can was a Surefire 556-212. Local NFA dealer had it in stock, so I bought it. Apparently at full retail. Second 5.56 can I got through a different guy, OPS-INC 12th model. Could have bought 2 of them for what I paid for the Surefire. |
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I use the BCM CH, and I've never had a problem with gas to the face.
I had a PRI GB on my OBR, but couldn't stand it and replaced it with the Rainier Raptor and have had zero problems there as well . |
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Anyone seen this yet:
http://oss-online.com/the-system/ It's major performance claim is elimination of back blast into the rifle bore. |
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Hey guys, for all the experience supporessor owners here. I deliberately got a 16" barrel so I wouldn't have to pin the flash hider and could just unscrew the flash hider and screw on the suppressor. I heard that alot of the QD suppressors out there aren't very good, in that many of them will wiggle around or something, and not stay completely solidly fixed to the barrel.
Was that a good choice? If so, do they have threaded .308 suppressors that will fit on my .750 5.56 barrel? And if you recoommend I still go with a QD flash hider + suppressor, what are the best ones? |
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