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South_Side_Shooter
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Posted: 8/4/2012 9:18:55 AM
[Last Edit: 8/9/2012 7:22:54 PM by South_Side_Shooter]

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Thanks guys!

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_134/1351210_Issues_with_my_98_Accord__either_deals_with_the_hub_or_the_axle_nut_____.html
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hondaciv
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Posted: 8/4/2012 9:45:38 AM
Are you in the Dallas area? I can come take a look. Got nothing on the plate today.
If you would hIt, you must acquit. ~EvanWilliams
South_Side_Shooter
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Posted: 8/4/2012 9:49:25 AM
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Are you in the Dallas area? I can come take a look. Got nothing on the plate today.


Austin area
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Posted: 8/4/2012 10:20:25 AM
[Last Edit: 8/4/2012 10:21:58 AM by proheromk1]
Really all depends. If you grab the tire at 6 and 12 and get movement when you rock it back and forth it's a good chance it's your wheel bearings. Grab it at 3 and 9 and get wobbling your tie rod could be wrecked. That's kind of a quick check, I would guess with the resistance that your bearings went though.

Eta: you said rear so disregard.
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:13:08 AM
[Last Edit: 8/4/2012 11:13:40 AM by Maverick52]
Originally Posted By proheromk1:
Really all depends. If you grab the tire at 6 and 12 and get movement when you rock it back and forth it's a good chance it's your wheel bearings. Grab it at 3 and 9 and get wobbling your tie rod could be wrecked. That's kind of a quick check, I would guess with the resistance that your bearings went though.

Eta: you said rear so disregard.


Being on the rear it's probably a bearing and not suspension related. OP, when you wiggle the tire is it just the tire/wheel assembly moving or are is there movement in any of the suspension arms? If not, it's the wheel bearing, if so, you found the/another problem.

Can you see the drum/rotor shifting as you shake the wheel also? If so I'd say wheel bearing.

I am ASE certified for suspension & steering, and do suspension work daily, I would be thinking wheel bearing if you brought the vehicle to my shop and gave the description you did, first thing I'd check. Without being there it's hard to say for sure though.
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:16:05 AM
Pretty sure your muffler bearings are worn out, I'd get professional (ASE) help, the mechanic needs to know his way around the flux capacitor, sometimes those shady tree type mechanics don't know the difference between headlight fluid and differential fluid.
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:20:47 AM
Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Pretty easy fix.
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hondaciv
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:38:11 AM
Originally Posted By hobbsar:
Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Pretty easy fix.


Not on a honda.
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:43:11 AM
Not a mechanic but I own a few accords one of them being a 98 (5speed).

The suspension in the back is very basic, you'd think a visual would give you any clues if it was related to that.

I'd take it to a mechanic and just be done with it, wheel bearing issues can be catastrophic in some vehicles.
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:49:26 AM
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Originally Posted By hobbsar:
Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Pretty easy fix.


Not on a honda.


Ok, I just educated myself on the rear bearings.

Easy. The front ones are a PITA.
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:50:15 AM
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hondaciv
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Posted: 8/4/2012 11:50:49 AM
Watch these videos.

Easy peasy.



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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:29:37 PM
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Watch these videos.

Easy peasy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjFMq0OitXo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr-whebYgaE


Big help. but I forgot one step
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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:32:09 PM
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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:34:38 PM
Originally Posted By pilotman:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc


I got that, I just need to know what size bolt to replace it with.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:37:15 PM
Originally Posted By South_Side_Shooter:
Originally Posted By pilotman:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc


I got that, I just need to know what size bolt to replace it with.


Couldn't you call a dealership's service dept?
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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:37:22 PM
Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:40:04 PM
Looks like M6-1.0

check the parts stores in the "help" section. Lowes depot tends to suck when it comes to metric fasteners.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-8-pcs-M6-disc-brake-rotor-retaining-screw-for-Honda/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=68840
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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:56:57 PM
Originally Posted By m1awolf:
Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out.


Did the rear rotors on our Kia recently...had a bit of problem with the same screw.

Put a couple of adaptors on an impact wrench (until I could get a 1/4" socket mounted)...then put in a Phillips Head bit...came right out.

AFARR
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:00:03 PM
That looks like a rounded screw, not a stripped bolt.

You strip threads. You round heads.

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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:04:44 PM
Originally Posted By AFARR:
Originally Posted By m1awolf:
Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out.


Did the rear rotors on our Kia recently...had a bit of problem with the same screw.

Put a couple of adaptors on an impact wrench (until I could get a 1/4" socket mounted)...then put in a Phillips Head bit...came right out.

AFARR


So its not important? Good.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:06:38 PM
Originally Posted By South_Side_Shooter:
Originally Posted By AFARR:
Originally Posted By m1awolf:
Been doing this crap for 25 years bust it off if need be, it's not an important part considering you are replacing the bearing. All that screw is there for is to hold the rotor on during assembly. When I run into that situation I grab the smoke wrench and just cut them out.


Did the rear rotors on our Kia recently...had a bit of problem with the same screw.

Put a couple of adaptors on an impact wrench (until I could get a 1/4" socket mounted)...then put in a Phillips Head bit...came right out.

AFARR


So its not important? Good.


You can replace it easily enough, but the original ones went right back in place (I just tightened them enough with a regular phillips screw driver)...they weren't too buggered up (yours don't look too bad if you can get them out in that condition...the impact wrench helps a lot).

AFARR
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:09:35 PM
That machine screw isn't needed. It is only to hold the rotors on with the wheel removed. Take the old one out and size it up if you think you absolutely need it. Most hardware aisles have metric thread checkers.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:11:51 PM
Just drill the head off, then tackle it with vice grips.

Seriously I never replace that screw.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:12:33 PM
No need to replace it. Mainly used to keep the rotor on the hub during assembly. Once the tires are installed they keep the rotor on not that little screw.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:15:04 PM
I would have reverse drilled off the head and removed the rotor, then removed the remainder of the screw with vice grips.

Anytime you bang two hammers together, you could lose an eye. Note that actor in video has safety glasses.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:16:47 PM
The damn hum is stuck to the axle.

Now what do i do?
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:28:28 PM


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Socialism is to Communism as HIV is to AIDS.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:31:39 PM


If the hub nut is off, then keep applying liberal amounts of hammer strikes till it comes loose.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:36:29 PM
Originally Posted By millfire517:


If the hub nut is off, then keep applying liberal amounts of hammer strikes till it comes loose.


Pretty much this.

Does it spin freely? The inner race *may* be mechanically welded to the spindle. It might take some effort to get it off.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:37:12 PM
Originally Posted By South_Side_Shooter:
The damn hum is stuck to the axle.

Now what do i do?


Go to Autozone and borrow a puller. Buy it, use it, return it, they return your money.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:46:01 PM
Tap around the edge of the rotor with a hammer and see if you can walk it off.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:49:08 PM
Do the words "pressed on" mean anything to you, because they should.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 5:55:42 PM
heat, beat, & Repeat
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Posted: 8/9/2012 6:03:23 PM
[Last Edit: 8/9/2012 6:05:09 PM by Atomic_Ferret]
put axle nut back on loose, put wheel back on, drop car on ground. Push it back and forth a bit (don't drive it like that obviously).

Try rear axle bearings on a toyota truck. Now that is a fun job (requires a press and either buying a really expensive tool or fabricating one).

ETA: Don't know shit about Hondas. Are these sealed bearings or regular tapered style wheel bearings?
If sealed, disregard previous advice, you are gonna need moar tools.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 6:55:15 PM
Originally Posted By fxntime:
Originally Posted By South_Side_Shooter:
The damn hum is stuck to the axle.

Now what do i do?


Go to Autozone and borrow a puller. Buy it, use it, return it, they return your money.


This should work, but you may leave the inner race stuck on the spindle. If that happens you are in for a lot more fun.

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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:00:04 PM
I love my 4lb hammer and brass rod when things need to be sweet talked.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:02:02 PM

Originally Posted By fxntime:
Originally Posted By South_Side_Shooter:
The damn hum is stuck to the axle.

Now what do i do?


Go to Autozone and borrow a puller. Buy it, use it, return it, they return your money.

Yep.

Or $10 at Harbor Freight.

Pullers FTMFW!!!
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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:07:39 PM
Originally Posted By SUPER_SIX_ONE:
Do the words "pressed on" mean anything to you, because they should.


That would make sense if the cups were stuck in the hub, but the cones shouldn't be stuck to the axle (assuming traditional bearing design).

Last time I ran into this myself, the bearing had seized, and the cone inner race was seized to the axle. I had to get a new stub axle since it was too rough to clean up (it was a bitch to get the bearing off, also; it was really seized on).
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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:07:41 PM
Lots of good advice so far.

The easiest way is probably using a puller. You might get it off with a hammer though if you can't get a puller.

If the race is seized to the spindle, best method of getting it off is with a torch, or a cut-off wheel.

If you think the job is now beyond your capability, see if you can pull that whole spindle off and take it to a shop. They shouldn't charge too much to fix it at that point.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:21:19 PM
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Watch these videos.

Easy peasy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjFMq0OitXo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr-whebYgaE


After carefully torque wrenching every unnecessary thing under that car, he buzzes the lug nuts on with an impact... Is he serious???
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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:25:24 PM
Originally Posted By rangermonroe:
heat, beat, & Repeat


This... Don't be a pussy, hit it like it owes you money.
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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:37:04 PM
Originally Posted By Elijah1:
Originally Posted By hondaciv:
Watch these videos.

Easy peasy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjFMq0OitXo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr-whebYgaE


After carefully torque wrenching every unnecessary thing under that car, he buzzes the lug nuts on with an impact... Is he serious???


Torque stik?
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Posted: 8/9/2012 7:59:26 PM
Well....?

How did you get it off?

Working better?

Wanna come to PA and help with my output bearings in my differential (they have a hum)?....

AFARR
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Posted: 8/9/2012 8:07:25 PM
Originally Posted By AFARR:
Well....?

How did you get it off?

Working better?

Wanna come to PA and help with my output bearings in my differential (they have a hum)?....

AFARR


I got it done, The were two ball bearings shattered as well as the final piece at the head of the axle was slpit in half.

New one went on without any issues and just got back from the road test
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hondaciv
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Posted: 8/9/2012 8:09:25 PM
Originally Posted By South_Side_Shooter:
Originally Posted By AFARR:
Well....?

How did you get it off?

Working better?

Wanna come to PA and help with my output bearings in my differential (they have a hum)?....

AFARR


I got it done, The were two ball bearings shattered as well as the final piece at the head of the axle was slpit in half.

New one went on without any issues and just got back from the road test


I prolly should have mentioned it, but did you double check the spindle to make sure it wasn't scored/scratched/roughed up? If it is, your new bearings might not last very long.

And did you use axle grease anywhere?
If you would hIt, you must acquit. ~EvanWilliams