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Posted: 8/7/2012 11:23:43 AM
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By sab308:
Originally Posted By mean_sartin:
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By Dog1:
I just picked up Duplicolor's spray on bed liner, at AutoZone- http://www.autobarn.net/duplicolor-truck-bed-liner-spray.html?site=google_base I'm thinking of a coat of that, kevlar, coat, kevlar, etc. Then sew up a pocket of kevlar to hold it all together.
That will work great man I thought that was the same stuff off Amazon that got shot down early in the thread. It didn't get very good reviews IIRC. Correct. I am thinking that as long as the kevlar takes the main hits, the spray on stuff will just add to it. I wouldn't use it for a primary protection, like cattle did with herc. That's my plan. I want the kevlar to take the hits, the spray stuff to attenuate any strikes. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 12:40:43 PM
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 12:58:33 PM
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. Worked well on mine as well. It comes off easily. Tinfoil does not. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:37:47 PM
Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By BushBoar: Originally Posted By xmission: I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. In the pictures, the herc looks heavy enough that the tape wouldn't contain it. Interesting. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:40:11 PM
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. In the pictures, the herc looks heavy enough that the tape wouldn't contain it. Interesting. It's really thinner, and more watery than I expected. I was thinking roofing tar before I opened the can. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:42:37 PM
Originally Posted By xmission:
It's really thinner, and more watery than I expected. I was thinking roofing tar before I opened the can. Do you pour it on, then move it around or brush/roll it on? |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:43:05 PM
Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By bcauz3y: Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By bcauz3y: Originally Posted By stutzcattle: I think you've got me beat. Mine may be more durable, but your method has more utility and will work better for more people. 14# vs 18#. It starts to add up pretty quick. Yours is slightly more expensive but way faster and much easier. I'm glad you did this test. Well, I would counter that the herc method is more widely available and easily just as effective, if not more. (hard to judge) Lets face it, most guys don't have kevlar lying around. And we still don't know if a 1/4" of herc works, correct? Working on it now my friend. Got a flat plate on its second coat. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f308/justsomeguylookin/Layer2.jpg If you think about it, weigh it before you start drilling it. I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is there a layer of Kevlar below the coating? Or will you be putting a layer of Kevlar on top of the coating? |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:44:36 PM
Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By BushBoar: Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By BushBoar: Originally Posted By xmission: I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. In the pictures, the herc looks heavy enough that the tape wouldn't contain it. Interesting. It's really thinner, and more watery than I expected. I was thinking roofing tar before I opened the can. That's what it looks like (to me) in the photos. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:47:55 PM
Originally Posted By BushBoar: It is more like thick syrup.Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By BushBoar: Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By BushBoar: Originally Posted By xmission: I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. In the pictures, the herc looks heavy enough that the tape wouldn't contain it. Interesting. It's really thinner, and more watery than I expected. I was thinking roofing tar before I opened the can. That's what it looks like (to me) in the photos. Any resistance at all will stop it's flow. On the one that took 30 rounds, I just made a mold out of sheet metal I had lying around and poured it on. the problem with that method is that it won't dry evenly and more will pool on the edges. Your best bet is to use a brush and brush on thick layers, allowing each to cure overnight. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:53:16 PM
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
It is more like thick syrup.
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. In the pictures, the herc looks heavy enough that the tape wouldn't contain it. Interesting. It's really thinner, and more watery than I expected. I was thinking roofing tar before I opened the can. That's what it looks like (to me) in the photos. Any resistance at all will stop it's flow. On the one that took 30 rounds, I just made a mold out of sheet metal I had lying around and poured it on. the problem with that method is that it won't dry evenly and more will pool on the edges. Your best bet is to use a brush and brush on thick layers, allowing each to cure overnight. I poured the last layer on the 6x6 panels just to see how they'd do. The rest are brushed on. On the curved plates, the herc wants to run down to the lower edges, and I fought it at first, but thought about it, and decided that it's ok with me if I wind up with a flat surface, and it's a bit thicker on the sides. Maybe it'll help keep close to the edge stuff inside. No kevlar in any of these panels. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:54:54 PM
Kevlar tape around the edges probably wouldn't do anything, would it?
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Posted: 8/7/2012 2:55:20 PM
Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By bcauz3y: Originally Posted By BushBoar: It is more like thick syrup.Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By BushBoar: Originally Posted By xmission: Originally Posted By BushBoar: Originally Posted By xmission: I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. In the pictures, the herc looks heavy enough that the tape wouldn't contain it. Interesting. It's really thinner, and more watery than I expected. I was thinking roofing tar before I opened the can. That's what it looks like (to me) in the photos. Any resistance at all will stop it's flow. On the one that took 30 rounds, I just made a mold out of sheet metal I had lying around and poured it on. the problem with that method is that it won't dry evenly and more will pool on the edges. Your best bet is to use a brush and brush on thick layers, allowing each to cure overnight. I poured the last layer on the 6x6 panels just to see how they'd do. The rest are brushed on. On the curved plates, the herc wants to run down to the lower edges, and I fought it at first, but thought about it, and decided that it's ok with me if I wind up with a flat surface, and it's a bit thicker on the sides. Maybe it'll help keep close to the edge stuff inside. No kevlar in any of these panels. Yea, and you really need more on the edges anyway, given that the frag ends up there. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 3:07:16 PM
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Kevlar tape around the edges probably wouldn't do anything, would it? it would so long as it was bonded to the other layers. that is more or less what i did using strips between the layers on the edges. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 6:05:49 PM
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
It is more like thick syrup.
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By BushBoar:
Originally Posted By xmission:
I have some 6"x6" plates downstairs with about 1/8" inch on them. If I get them done, and wait 20 days before you get to it, I'll let you know. Is that just painter's tape containing the herc? Yep. In the pictures, the herc looks heavy enough that the tape wouldn't contain it. Interesting. It's really thinner, and more watery than I expected. I was thinking roofing tar before I opened the can. That's what it looks like (to me) in the photos. Any resistance at all will stop it's flow. On the one that took 30 rounds, I just made a mold out of sheet metal I had lying around and poured it on. the problem with that method is that it won't dry evenly and more will pool on the edges. Your best bet is to use a brush and brush on thick layers, allowing each to cure overnight. This is my opinion as well. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 6:36:55 PM
You guys have any trouble getting any of the herc cans open?
The second one required ripping it off with channel locks. It would not come up with a screwdriver. I was worried that it'd be a solid block inside, but it was fine. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 7:05:04 PM
thats normal. the stuff pressurizes under heat so they really crank them down
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Posted: 8/7/2012 7:09:43 PM
Originally Posted By xmission: Yea it was A SONOFABITCH.You guys have any trouble getting any of the herc cans open? The second one required ripping it off with channel locks. It would not come up with a screwdriver. I was worried that it'd be a solid block inside, but it was fine. After you've opened it twice, the can is so screwed you better use it all. |
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Posted: 8/7/2012 10:09:29 PM
Originally Posted By TylerB42:
Tried to thermo-form 1/4" UHMW around a plate last night.....did not go well I think it's going to take a longer heat cycle, higher temp., and inner/outer molds to make it work. From a logistics/simplicity perspective, looks like Herc is the winner here, not that that will stop me from trying to make UHMW feasible
What about making the UHMW a little smaller than the plate, like 1/4" all the way around, and then encasing the whole thing in herc? Would that be lighter than the full 1/2" of herc? |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 7:39:17 AM
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Yea it was A SONOFABITCH.
You guys have any trouble getting any of the herc cans open? The second one required ripping it off with channel locks. It would not come up with a screwdriver. I was worried that it'd be a solid block inside, but it was fine. After you've opened it twice, the can is so screwed you better use it all. shake can and let it sit about 5-10 min. lid pops off easy. |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 10:56:57 AM
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer: Originally Posted By bcauz3y: Originally Posted By xmission: Yea it was A SONOFABITCH.You guys have any trouble getting any of the herc cans open? The second one required ripping it off with channel locks. It would not come up with a screwdriver. I was worried that it'd be a solid block inside, but it was fine. After you've opened it twice, the can is so screwed you better use it all. shake can and let it sit about 5-10 min. lid pops off easy. ![]() It cannot be that easy. |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 10:59:32 AM
How many rolls of duct tape to cover entire front 1/2 inch thick? I wonder if only tape would work.
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Posted: 8/8/2012 11:03:54 AM
Originally Posted By alphajaguars:
Originally Posted By TylerB42:
Tried to thermo-form 1/4" UHMW around a plate last night.....did not go well I think it's going to take a longer heat cycle, higher temp., and inner/outer molds to make it work. From a logistics/simplicity perspective, looks like Herc is the winner here, not that that will stop me from trying to make UHMW feasible
What about making the UHMW a little smaller than the plate, like 1/4" all the way around, and then encasing the whole thing in herc? Would that be lighter than the full 1/2" of herc? Its about 1.25lbs/sq foot so the weight would be nearly the same. Significantly cheaper though, .25 uhmw is about $7 sq ft. + however much encasing Herc would be required. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 11:38:09 AM
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Yea it was A SONOFABITCH.
You guys have any trouble getting any of the herc cans open? The second one required ripping it off with channel locks. It would not come up with a screwdriver. I was worried that it'd be a solid block inside, but it was fine. After you've opened it twice, the can is so screwed you better use it all. shake can and let it sit about 5-10 min. lid pops off easy. Thanks. Will try that. |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 1:26:33 PM
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Yea it was A SONOFABITCH.
You guys have any trouble getting any of the herc cans open? The second one required ripping it off with channel locks. It would not come up with a screwdriver. I was worried that it'd be a solid block inside, but it was fine. After you've opened it twice, the can is so screwed you better use it all. shake can and let it sit about 5-10 min. lid pops off easy. Thanks. Will try that. I seem to remember a warning on the can about "do not shake can or contents". it may build up pressure and spray out when you open it. I need to find my can, haven't seen it in months. it was mangled really bad trying to get the lid off. |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 1:38:35 PM
Originally Posted By phideaux:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By xmission:
Yea it was A SONOFABITCH.
You guys have any trouble getting any of the herc cans open? The second one required ripping it off with channel locks. It would not come up with a screwdriver. I was worried that it'd be a solid block inside, but it was fine. After you've opened it twice, the can is so screwed you better use it all. shake can and let it sit about 5-10 min. lid pops off easy. Thanks. Will try that. I seem to remember a warning on the can about "do not shake can or contents". it may build up pressure and spray out when you open it. I need to find my can, haven't seen it in months. it was mangled really bad trying to get the lid off.yup. but it works ![]() |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 5:59:32 PM
Here is the info. on the Rhino-Liner Paxcon product. They suggest spraying 240 mil thick (about 1/4"). It would cost $75 per rifle plate, mine are the size of an XL SAPI plate. If you have a metal fabrication place nearby, you might want to look into having them cut locally. I got my plates cut (plasma) out of 3/8" AR500 to the size of an XL SAPI (larger than the 10"x12" plates). There were 4 sheets of AR500 available, I got to see the spec sheets (DTMRs?) and found a sheet with a Brinnel hardness of 514 (there was also a 507 and two high 400s)!!!! Front plates were curved on a press brake.
A good friend cut and bent them for free, he charged me cost on the steel...$20 per plate. I know using the Paxcon isn't exactly the solution the OP was looking for (ability to do at home with common products) but $95 for a Paxcon coated plate is impossible to beat. My fabricating friend thinks the HDPE, thermoformed around a plate, might work very well and be easy to do. He is looking into ordering some HDPE sheets to cut and give it a try. I'm not going to shoot these plates up, but I can get some AR500 scrap pieces and I will have them Paxconed as well to shoot at. Oh, FWIW I asked Rhino-Liner about doing some of my steel silhouette targets in Paxcon so I can shoot them up close, they will do a 12"x24" target for $125. |
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Posted: 8/8/2012 8:16:09 PM
rhino or line-x?
i have about 40 in covering my plates and that cost is enough material to cover 2.5 plates. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 12:45:43 AM
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
rhino or line-x? i have about 40 in covering my plates and that cost is enough material to cover 2.5 plates. you just put 1/2" of the front of each plate and it just took one can of Herculiner...right? |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 8:26:44 AM
Originally Posted By phideaux:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
rhino or line-x? i have about 40 in covering my plates and that cost is enough material to cover 2.5 plates. you just put 1/2" of the front of each plate and it just took one can of Herculiner...right? A gallon of herc would probably do 5-6 plates at .5" thick. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 8:36:30 AM
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By shinoi:
Originally Posted By mcantu:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
for cheap i am wandering how well just a quality latex paint between the kevlar layers would work. thick layers are flexible and pretty tear resistent especially when mixed with the fabric. cheap latex paint is everywhere. ballistic aramids (like kevlar) work best when the layers are in direct contact with each other. this is because the energy of an impact is directed outwards along the fibers and into the fibers of next progressive layers. what might work well is the 1st kevlar layer glued to the plate with 7 more layers (all in direct contact with each other) wrapped around the plate and strapped down with tape. this could be done with one $16 sheet of kevlar km-2 from ebay You do not want to constrain the ends of the fiber. It halves the tensile strength of the fibers. The ends need to be free to move. based on our testing here that is not what our testing shows. the re-enforcement added significant longevity and structural strength to the containment vs kevlar alone. keep in mind capturing fragmentation is different than capturing a bullet. I agree to the extent that you are reinforcing by dipping in some rubber coating which, theoretically, will add a damping and resistance to impede the travel of fragments. My comment, however, was pointed at the part mentioned about wrapping kevlar around the plate and taping it down (see above). Essentially, this pins the ends of the fibers making the transverse strain wave reflect back upon itself. I would posit one caveat that this transverse strain wave is speaking to the behavior of kevlar alone stopping a bullet, and not the behavior of kevlar in conjunction with a armored plate in which case you are expecting the plate to absorb the impact and the kevlar to impede travel of the fragments. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 1:29:35 PM
Originally Posted By the_naked_prophet:
How many rolls of duct tape to cover entire front 1/2 inch thick? I wonder if only tape would work. It might but duct tape deteriorates pretty quickly. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:09:44 PM
how about prepping 4 or 5 layers of kevlar by using contact cement ( comes in different strength, from the general purpose to the kind use to lay down tile/wood floors). brush or pour on a sheet and squeegy around to get it coated then layer the second kevlar sheet on top, at 45* or 90* weave alignment to the first sheet. Keep layering and staggering the weave until finsh with 5 layers. I think the bonded layer is stronger than just loose sheets, and also the staggered and pliable combo helps absorb the rounds better too. Then rough up the armor plate surface, apply a layer or two of herc and let it dry, then apply some herc on the plate and back of kevlar to act as glue and press onto armor plate and wrap loose kevlar edge around back of plate and cement onto back of plate. Can put duct tape over top to cover as well. As final step brush on layer of herc on top of kevlar to cover it up. Think this will work?
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Posted: 8/9/2012 3:19:30 PM
Originally Posted By v6pwr:
how about prepping 4 or 5 layers of kevlar by using contact cement ( comes in different strength, from the general purpose to the kind use to lay down tile/wood floors). brush or pour on a sheet and squeegy around to get it coated then layer the second kevlar sheet on top, at 45* or 90* weave alignment to the first sheet. Keep layering and staggering the weave until finsh with 5 layers. I think the bonded layer is stronger than just loose sheets, and also the staggered and pliable combo helps absorb the rounds better too. Then rough up the armor plate surface, apply a layer or two of herc and let it dry, then apply some herc on the plate and back of kevlar to act as glue and press onto armor plate and wrap loose kevlar edge around back of plate and cement onto back of plate. Can put duct tape over top to cover as well. As final step brush on layer of herc on top of kevlar to cover it up. Think this will work? Only one way to find out. |
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Posted: 8/9/2012 4:35:21 PM
no need to rotate the layers with km2, it is not a directional weave.
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Posted: 8/12/2012 11:39:26 AM
KM2 here, herculiner here, just waiting on the plates.
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Posted: 8/12/2012 11:56:33 AM
Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread.
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Posted: 8/12/2012 12:50:57 PM
Originally Posted By MSC182: Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I don't think we've done that one yet, but it's on the list. Show of hands how many guys got their plates already? |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 5:14:24 PM
Originally Posted By MSC182:
Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I'm going to scuff the plates and have a single sprayed layer of line x applied. It sticks to bare metal better than the herc. Then I'll add the herc for thickness on the front. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 5:46:24 PM
Originally Posted By bcauz3y:
Originally Posted By MSC182:
Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I don't think we've done that one yet, but it's on the list. Show of hands how many guys got their plates already? I've received 1 set. Still waiting on another. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 5:49:39 PM
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Originally Posted By MSC182:
Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I'm going to scuff the plates and have a single sprayed layer of line x applied. It sticks to bare metal better than the herc. Then I'll add the herc for thickness on the front. i am not real sure what the point of that is? the herc alone is proven. i am sure the linex would perform the same. what is the purpose of laying down linex first? i guess i just don't see the need or the point on that. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 5:54:28 PM
Originally Posted By mototard:
KM2 here, herculiner here, just waiting on the plates. How long have you been waiting! Going on over a month here for my first set of plates and no plates and no response to phone or emails. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 5:56:37 PM
Originally Posted By bcauz3y: Originally Posted By MSC182: Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I don't think we've done that one yet, but it's on the list. Show of hands how many guys got their plates already? Still waiting on mine, here. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 6:00:08 PM
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Originally Posted By MSC182:
Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I'm going to scuff the plates and have a single sprayed layer of line x applied. It sticks to bare metal better than the herc. Then I'll add the herc for thickness on the front. i am not real sure what the point of that is? the herc alone is proven. i am sure the linex would perform the same. what is the purpose of laying down linex first? i guess i just don't see the need or the point on that. I have herc'd, line-x'd, and rhino-lined MULTIPLE interiors, truck beds, etc. over about 5 years in the race car industry. Herc SUCKS for long term adhesion compared to actual LineX. The LineX layer insures the plate stays protected and rust-free and gives the herc a layer to adhere to. Don't believe me fine. That's how I'm doing it though. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 6:05:17 PM
Originally Posted By NUcadet07:
Originally Posted By mototard:
KM2 here, herculiner here, just waiting on the plates. How long have you been waiting! Going on over a month here for my first set of plates and no plates and no response to phone or emails. This needs to be addressed. If he's not responding to you at all, that needs to be made an issue. I'll assume that we've sold a shitload of plates for him here in this thread. If he won't provide any customer service, it needs to be brought up. Probably in another thread. We don't want to get this one locked. I'd start a thread and go from there. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 6:06:00 PM
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Originally Posted By MSC182:
Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I'm going to scuff the plates and have a single sprayed layer of line x applied. It sticks to bare metal better than the herc. Then I'll add the herc for thickness on the front. i am not real sure what the point of that is? the herc alone is proven. i am sure the linex would perform the same. what is the purpose of laying down linex first? i guess i just don't see the need or the point on that. I have herc'd, line-x'd, and rhino-lined MULTIPLE interiors, truck beds, etc. over about 5 years in the race car industry. Herc SUCKS for long term adhesion compared to actual LineX. The LineX layer insures the plate stays protected and rust-free and gives the herc a layer to adhere to. Don't believe me fine. That's how I'm doing it though. no that's fine i was just trying to figure out what exactly you were trying to accomplish. for corrosion protection i understand. just didn't make much sense in the fragmentation discussion. seemed like unnecessary expense for that. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 6:23:51 PM
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By DevilPig:
Originally Posted By MSC182:
Has anybody tested a plate sprayed by a LineX dealer with their standard liner product? I have a quote from a local dealer thats reasonable and was thinking about just having them spray my plates. I've said it before but you guys rock! Thanks a ton for all the testing and all the info posted in this thread. ![]() I'm going to scuff the plates and have a single sprayed layer of line x applied. It sticks to bare metal better than the herc. Then I'll add the herc for thickness on the front. i am not real sure what the point of that is? the herc alone is proven. i am sure the linex would perform the same. what is the purpose of laying down linex first? i guess i just don't see the need or the point on that. I have herc'd, line-x'd, and rhino-lined MULTIPLE interiors, truck beds, etc. over about 5 years in the race car industry. Herc SUCKS for long term adhesion compared to actual LineX. The LineX layer insures the plate stays protected and rust-free and gives the herc a layer to adhere to. Don't believe me fine. That's how I'm doing it though. no that's fine i was just trying to figure out what exactly you were trying to accomplish. for corrosion protection i understand. just didn't make much sense in the fragmentation discussion. seemed like unnecessary expense for that. LineX is mostly polyurethane and once it's on there damn near impossible to get off without grinding. It will give a great base layer that will last, is corrosion resistant, and will be a decent thermal barrier. Herc is ok, but it doesn't adhere as well to bare or painted metal IMO. I do think the herc, being more spongy than the LineX, will work better for spall. So I'll use it to build up the thickness on the front. It should be the best of both worlds. And a local LineX place told me they would do a single layer on the plates for $30 (just a quick spray as they were doing a larger job). So it's not going to cost as much as if they built up the layers, which I believe is why the quote was higher for some folks. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 6:31:00 PM
The line-x will probably adhere better, but may not fit the SHTF premise.
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Posted: 8/12/2012 11:15:34 PM
Well, since I didn't get to get in on the "Omega" plates early, the ones that shipped immediately before the rush, I'm gonna hold off until there is an update from them. Elsewhere on the net he's being called out for major backorders and possible bad service. Not the ebay seller, but the other one. Anyway, just a heads up to those thinking of making a purchase...
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Posted: 8/12/2012 11:34:24 PM
Originally Posted By Bizill:
Well, since I didn't get to get in on the "Omega" plates early, the ones that shipped immediately before the rush, I'm gonna hold off until there is an update from them. Elsewhere on the net he's being called out for major backorders and possible bad service. Not the ebay seller, but the other one. Anyway, just a heads up to those thinking of making a purchase... We are a fairly substantial group. I'd guess his backorders started here. He needs to address it and make shit right though. |
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Posted: 8/12/2012 11:36:50 PM
Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
The line-x will probably adhere better, but may not fit the SHTF premise. What do you mean about shtf premise? |
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