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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:14:22 AM EDT
[#1]
I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway.
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:15:40 AM EDT
[#2]
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:16:57 AM EDT
[#3]
I poured a 100' x 40 slab for my shop a few year back.
I went with the 3000psi with fiber and 1/2" rebar. I wanted to be able park a loaded dump truck on it if needed! It took 85 yards of concrete that cost $8,000 and another $8,000 for the labor. Hope this helps. ETA: I believe the floor is 4" thick and the footers are 48". Also This was done in 2008, I imagine the cost has gone up significantly! |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:17:34 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway. That has to be the understatement of the day. 
Tag for interest as I need to get a floor put down in my 30x50 building. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:17:57 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted: I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway. There goes my BOL cabin plan.  The other day I was talking to my brother who happens to be an architect, I told him that I would just mix some quick-crete, pour it in wholes on four corners of the plot and build a shed-roof cabin over it. He told me I was an imbecile.
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:19:16 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
I am figuring 30 cubic yards of concrete at 4". Don't really know about how to factor in the footers or if I even need them? The location has good iron-ore as foundation. Is it overkill if I go with 3500 psi concrete using 1/2" rebar at 24" centers? What about mesh or fiber, are the any advantages using these vs rebar or with rebar? This heaviest thing this slab might hold would be a tractor-trailer. Also, what price would this slab cost me? I just priced the 30 yards delivered at $3500 alone. That all sounds like too little. I'm about to have my entire parking lot re-poured. I'm using 6" I think the rebar is going to be 12". I know you are in Longview and I know a lot of people. IM and I'll give you a guy's number to use. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:21:31 AM EDT
[#7]
I come up with 29.62 yards at 4 inches. You'll end up a bit over 30 , concrete is mixed by weight not volume. If you want rebar you could go 3 ft on center and you'd be fine. Rebar doesn't prevent concrete from cracking, it's there to help hold it together after it cracks. Saw cuts help control cracking.
Is this a "pole barn"? As in square posts sunk in the ground, then purlined together on the horizontal and tin siding? If it is a pole barn, when I pour pole barns I saw cut across the floor from post to post, this is where your cracks will develop. Up here in MN we usually run a 6 bag mix or 4000PSI for concrete. Do you get frost in your area of Texas? |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:21:39 AM EDT
[#8]
i do rebar for a living on the estimating side.
what is the heaviest load in weight per sae that you will see on that slab. 4" is not thick enough. way too thin. this will crack and have issues. 6" would be the minimum i would recommend for a floor slab. most garage floors are 6" you could out mesh in it but that would not give you and weight support you could put in just one bay w/ rebar 12" by 12" grid pattern #4 rebar (1/2" dia), 2-1/2" clear from the top. this is what i would highly suggest, i do this for a living. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:23:14 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I come up with 29.62 yards at 4 inches. You'll end up a bit over 30 , concrete is mixed by weight not volume. If you want rebar you could go 3 ft on center and you'd be fine. Rebar doesn't prevent concrete from cracking, it's there to help hold it together after it cracks. Saw cuts help control cracking. Is this a "pole barn"? As in square posts sunk in the ground, then purlined together on the horizontal and tin siding? If it is a pole barn, when I pour pole barns I saw cut across the floor from post to post, this is where your cracks will develop. Up here in MN we usually run a 6 bag mix or 4000PSI for concrete. Do you get frost in your area of Texas? He is parking a TT on it. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:23:40 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted: Quoted: I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway. That has to be the understatement of the day. Tag for interest as I need to get a floor put down in my 30x50 building.  Who shit in your coffee today?
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:24:11 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted: Quoted: I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway. There goes my BOL cabin plan. The other day I was talking to my brother who happens to be an architect, I told him that I would just mix some quick-crete, pour it in wholes on four corners of the plot and build a shed-roof cabin over it. He told me I was an imbecile. Only way to find out is to DO IT... then post pics. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:25:26 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway. [img]
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:25:54 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway. There goes my BOL cabin plan. The other day I was talking to my brother who happens to be an architect, I told him that I would just mix some quick-crete, pour it in wholes on four corners of the plot and build a shed-roof cabin over it. He told me I was an imbecile. Only way to find out is to DO IT... then post pics. The only free help I have is my brother and he thinks that the plan is imbecilic. Yes that's a word, look it up.  |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:26:48 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
i do rebar for a living on the estimating side. what is the heaviest load in weight per sae that you will see on that slab. 4" is not thick enough. way too thin. this will crack and have issues. 6" would be the minimum i would recommend for a floor slab. most garage floors are 6" you could out mesh in it but that would not give you and weight support you could put in just one bay w/ rebar 12" by 12" grid pattern #4 rebar (1/2" dia), 2-1/2" clear from the top. this is what i would highly suggest, i do this for a living. Not a bad idea. I would spend the money to have it done in the whole building. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:27:49 AM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:29:11 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted: Quoted: ]I have nothing constructive to add, except that to say I knew a guy that simply poured shit tons of concrete down over the clay and then surfaced it with smooth concrete. Later that winter his barn slid into the highway. [url=http:// It was EPIC. The whole thing just slid 300 feet down onto the road. Fucker pulled it back onto his property before the Sheriff or CHP showed up. All they could do was laugh. He got in some kind of trouble, but I don't know what kind, I was pretty young. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:30:40 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I am figuring 30 cubic yards of concrete at 4". Don't really know about how to factor in the footers or if I even need them? The location has good iron-ore as foundation. Is it overkill if I go with 3500 psi concrete using 1/2" rebar at 24" centers? What about mesh or fiber, are the any advantages using these vs rebar or with rebar? This heaviest thing this slab might hold would be a tractor-trailer. Also, what price would this slab cost me? I just priced the 30 yards delivered at $3500 alone. That all sounds like too little. I'm about to have my entire parking lot re-poured. I'm using 6" I think the rebar is going to be 12". I know you are in Longview and I know a lot of people. IM and I'll give you a guy's number to use. Parking lot is a lot different than pole barn/pole shed. Depending on the traffic you get in your lot, 6 inches of concrete sounds about right, rebar 12 inches on center is is overkill unless you have unstable soil. And once again, rebar will not stop your concrete from cracking, it's only there to help hold it together after it cracks. There is a joke amongst concrete guys- Concrete has three guarantees: I guarantee it will get hard I guarantee it will turn white I guarantee it will crack I've been pouring concrete for 27 years, both commercial and residential, and we have to deal with frost that goes 4 feet deep and sometimes more up here. ;) |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:31:19 AM EDT
[#18]
taggage
got a 30x60 pole barn that I need some type of surface on. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:33:26 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I come up with 29.62 yards at 4 inches. You'll end up a bit over 30 , concrete is mixed by weight not volume. If you want rebar you could go 3 ft on center and you'd be fine. Rebar doesn't prevent concrete from cracking, it's there to help hold it together after it cracks. Saw cuts help control cracking. Is this a "pole barn"? As in square posts sunk in the ground, then purlined together on the horizontal and tin siding? If it is a pole barn, when I pour pole barns I saw cut across the floor from post to post, this is where your cracks will develop. Up here in MN we usually run a 6 bag mix or 4000PSI for concrete. Do you get frost in your area of Texas? He is parking a TT on it. Probably a dumb question, but what's a "TT"? |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:34:56 AM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I am figuring 30 cubic yards of concrete at 4". Don't really know about how to factor in the footers or if I even need them? The location has good iron-ore as foundation. Is it overkill if I go with 3500 psi concrete using 1/2" rebar at 24" centers? What about mesh or fiber, are the any advantages using these vs rebar or with rebar? This heaviest thing this slab might hold would be a tractor-trailer. Also, what price would this slab cost me? I just priced the 30 yards delivered at $3500 alone. That all sounds like too little. I'm about to have my entire parking lot re-poured. I'm using 6" I think the rebar is going to be 12". I know you are in Longview and I know a lot of people. IM and I'll give you a guy's number to use. Parking lot is a lot different than pole barn/pole shed. Depending on the traffic you get in your lot, 6 inches of concrete sounds about right, rebar 12 inches on center is is overkill unless you have unstable soil. And once again, rebar will not stop your concrete from cracking, it's only there to help hold it together after it cracks. There is a joke amongst concrete guys- Concrete has three guarantees: I guarantee it will get hard I guarantee it will turn white I guarantee it will crack I've been pouring concrete for 27 years, both commercial and residential, and we have to deal with frost that goes 4 feet deep and sometimes more up here. ;) I have to fight ground water. 
French drains ect. I still want it done and not have anymore problems. Trash trucks and people using my parking lot to park to go to the store next door are the real problem.
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:35:53 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I come up with 29.62 yards at 4 inches. You'll end up a bit over 30 , concrete is mixed by weight not volume. If you want rebar you could go 3 ft on center and you'd be fine. Rebar doesn't prevent concrete from cracking, it's there to help hold it together after it cracks. Saw cuts help control cracking. Is this a "pole barn"? As in square posts sunk in the ground, then purlined together on the horizontal and tin siding? If it is a pole barn, when I pour pole barns I saw cut across the floor from post to post, this is where your cracks will develop. Up here in MN we usually run a 6 bag mix or 4000PSI for concrete. Do you get frost in your area of Texas? He is parking a TT on it. Probably a dumb question, but what's a "TT"? In the OP, a tractor trailer. Which can weigh 80K without a permit. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:37:13 AM EDT
[#22]
I am figuring 30 cubic yards of concrete at 4". Don't really know about how to factor in the footers or if I even need them? The location has good iron-ore as foundation.
as per before 4" is too this, 6" minimum is required. 2400*.333 /27= 29.26 cuyds 2400sf *.5 /27= 44.44 cuyds |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:40:28 AM EDT
[#23]
Will the truck be empty or weighing in at 100,000 pounds? I'd error on the thick side.
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:42:48 AM EDT
[#24]
Four inches won't cut it. It simply won't.
Five inches of 3,500psi is good. Adding #4 rebar in a five foot grid is better. Oh, and throw out your hand calculations for 29.something or other yards unless your grading was done with a Star Trek laser thingy. A good rule of thumb is to calculate yardage as close as you can and then add .5 yards for every ten you order. Why? Because it's not like you are having 2x4s delivered and if you run two short it's no big deal. If you run .5 yards short of concrete...it's a very big deal. Hope this helps. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:43:35 AM EDT
[#25]
As a somewhat 3rd Generation Concrete guy (I was doing it with my Dad at 13, I'm 29 now) I can tell you right now, your math is correct but you will come up short with concrete on the job. You need to figure in at least 10% waste because some concrete will get stuck in the trucks, washed out etc. You will need about 33 cubic yards. As for fiber, it was the wonder cure for rebar years ago, now its pretty much just used in areas with increased frost heave risk or unless specified. Concrete rebar or welded wire mesh are still what is used by the majority. When we pour driveways we don't used rebar that much. We use rebar more for structural purposes or for thicker slabs. If you have a good sub base I would venture to say without looking at it and with the the info provide that WWM would be ok. If I was parking a tractor trailer on it I would probably go rebar and maybe even a little thicker on the slab. If you are just gonna park the thing and leave it for an extended period of time, I'm my experience a 4" thick slab would be ok.. As for cost, that depends on if you get fiber, the cost per yard of concrete, delivery charges, additives, materials used and who is doing the work.
Thats all I can offer. Good Luck *Edited* Just noticed that we now might be talking 6" slab... 40x60=2400sf 2400sf x .5 feet thick = 1200 cu ft 1200 cu ft. / 27 = 44.44 cu yds. 44.44 cu. yds. x 10% (1.1) = 48.88 or 49 cubic yards |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:44:45 AM EDT
[#26]
Find a structural engineer. Do you have the anchor bolt reactions for the metal building? This will play into the foundation design. What you intend to store in it will play into the slab design. Around here, we have an engineer that charges roughly $700 for a design of this scope. Cheap insurance.
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:49:31 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Me too, 27 years and counting, in the field.
i do rebar for a living on the estimating side. No offense, but how are you paid? Salary or commision/percentage of job cost? what is the heaviest load in weight per sae that you will see on that slab. 4" is not thick enough. way too thin. this will crack and have issues. Horse hockey. 4 inches is the standard for floors, save for certain commercial or special situations. 6" would be the minimum i would recommend for a floor slab. most garage floors are 6" Nope, see above. I'm in the same frost belt as you. you could out mesh in it but that would not give you and weight support If the subgrade can't support the concrete and the load it is intended to bear, rebar isn't going to save it. you could put in just one bay w/ rebar 12" by 12" grid pattern #4 rebar (1/2" dia), 2-1/2" clear from the top. Serious over kill, and rebar goes in the bottom third of the concrete. So for a 6 inch slab that would be roughly 2 inches above grade, on chairs with bases if you want to be sure it stays there during the pour. this is what i would highly suggest, i do this for a living. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:51:13 AM EDT
[#28]
4" is not thick enough for a tractor & trailer (especially if loaded)
40' x 60' x 0.5' = 1200 cu ft 1200 / 27 = 44.44 cu yds 44.44 * 1.15 = 51.11 cu yds ==================assume 51 cu yds for the slab we typically use 6" slabs around buildings for garbage trucks and delivery trucks I would consider thicker slab for a tractor and trailer and some minimal mesh reinforcing or bar reinforcing for crack control (not strength) in the upper third of the slab if the reinforcing can't be in the upper third don't bother putting it in - cut more control joints provide control joints should be able to pour the whole slab in one pour so no construction joints allow expansion at the perimeter footings will be required to resist uplift and lateral loads coming form the building. typically the uplift & lateral loads will control over the vertical down loads in your neck of the woods there may be other designs (other than pad footings) to resist the loads from the building |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:52:25 AM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
I come up with 29.62 yards at 4 inches. You'll end up a bit over 30 , concrete is mixed by weight not volume. If you want rebar you could go 3 ft on center and you'd be fine. Rebar doesn't prevent concrete from cracking, it's there to help hold it together after it cracks. Saw cuts help control cracking. Is this a "pole barn"? As in square posts sunk in the ground, then purlined together on the horizontal and tin siding? If it is a pole barn, when I pour pole barns I saw cut across the floor from post to post, this is where your cracks will develop. Up here in MN we usually run a 6 bag mix or 4000PSI for concrete. Do you get frost in your area of Texas? It's not going to be a pole barn; I'm probably going to go with Mueller. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:55:10 AM EDT
[#30]
OK my apologies, I missed the tractor trailer part. I would go with at least 6 inches, rebar 2 ft on center.
I did the neighbors pole barn (40x80) and 40 x50 apron/drive way. He drives a low boy for a living and hauls heavy equipment. I have driven by and seen his rig parked on the slab with a huge Cat (D8?) on the trailer. Approx 10 years old no cracks except in the sawcuts. 6 bag/4000 PSI mix. Sand soil in our area. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:56:24 AM EDT
[#31]
i wish i was paid on commission. i would love it. but no salaried here.
yah i know over kill on the 1'x1' pattern ildot specs are just about 3" clear from the top for paving roadways for less than 8" of thickness for reinforced pavement and mesh in roadways and sidewalks. i was using dot specs for this job. 4" for sidewalks, but no one in the northern midwest puts 4" driveways in. the min i see is 6" and that is pretty typical for this area. i estimate quite a bit of pavement for the midwest. in term of estimating $ i do over XX million a year if not more than that. ( thats in tens of millions) he did not give subsoil specs, so it just a ball park |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:57:56 AM EDT
[#32]
Do you intend to dolly the trailer?
Thicken slab to 12" where the feet for the trailer are located. Metal building I read as a pre-engineered metal building. Footings will be required |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:59:23 AM EDT
[#33]
footing uplift controls the sizing of footings on 99% of metal buildings, especially ones this size.
-if you had perfectly compacted soil, you could do it with 1" of concrete and no rebar. since there is no such thing as perfect compaction, there is a need for thicker reinforced slabs. if your building is only 60' long, are you going to be able to park your truck on it? aren't most vans 50-59' by themselves? are you permitting it? most counties require a permit for something that size. kind of a headache, but if the building inspector knows his stuff, it may save you a headache and lots of money down the road. i had a monolithic turndown slab poured about this time last year. 30'x50' with thickened edges measuring 12" widex16" deep. Ran three runs of #5 in the turndown, and 6x6-10/10 in the 4" slab. Had lots of joints cut, such that the slab is more or less jointed into 10'x10' squares. After all was said and done, i have only 1 crack that is not contained to a joint. Total slab pour was just a little over 30 yards, and cost $6.5K, including finishing. eta: no heavy equipment on my slab, which is 4" thick. also, rebar placement depends on the forces in the slab. if you had grade beams, you'd actually want reinforcing near the top of the slab over the grade beams and near the bottom between them. for a slab like this, i'd center them in the slab, and not exceed a spacing of about 18" o.c. much further than that, and they're too far apart to give good reinforcing characteristics. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 9:59:35 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I come up with 29.62 yards at 4 inches. You'll end up a bit over 30 , concrete is mixed by weight not volume. If you want rebar you could go 3 ft on center and you'd be fine. Rebar doesn't prevent concrete from cracking, it's there to help hold it together after it cracks. Saw cuts help control cracking. Is this a "pole barn"? As in square posts sunk in the ground, then purlined together on the horizontal and tin siding? If it is a pole barn, when I pour pole barns I saw cut across the floor from post to post, this is where your cracks will develop. Up here in MN we usually run a 6 bag mix or 4000PSI for concrete. Do you get frost in your area of Texas? It's not going to be a pole barn; I'm probably going to go with Mueller. a year and a half ago I put in a wood framed pole barn with Mueller metal on the outside. Since its a pole barn construction the concrete floor isn't structural. I did 3000 PSI with 1/2" rebar on 24's. 4 inch thick. I don't park anything heavier than my truck on it though. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 10:02:48 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Will the truck be empty or weighing in at 100,000 pounds? I'd error on the thick side. Truck would be empty and it would not be carrying the trailer. 28,000 lbs max |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 10:04:45 AM EDT
[#36]
Hmm also gonna add that we have always used 3000 lbs mix on slabs, only time I every used higher then that was working on a bridge and they were using 4k lb concrete. In reality even if you have a 6" slab if the sub-base below isn't compacted well its gonna crack just as easy as a 4" slab would. And not trying to start another shit storm here but unless my physics is flawed rebar goes about 2-3" from the bottom of a slab because concrete has no tensile strength and the tensile forces are being exerted on the bottom of the slab, hence the steel rebar is inserted to offset this (steel has excellent tensile strength)
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Posted: 4/2/2012 10:08:50 AM EDT
[#37]
Quoted:
i wish i was paid on commission. i would love it. but no salaried here. yah i know over kill on the 1'x1' pattern ildot specs are just about 3" clear from the top for paving roadways for less than 8" of thickness for reinforced pavement and mesh in roadways and sidewalks. i was using dot specs for this job. 4" for sidewalks, but no one in the northern midwest puts 4" driveways in. the min i see is 6" and that is pretty typical for this area. i estimate quite a bit of pavement for the midwest. in term of estimating $ i do over XX million a year if not more than that. ( thats in tens of millions) he did not give subsoil specs, so it just a ball park OK, Now I understand your numbers, they really load up those highway pours. I would defer from my bottom third of concrete for rebar placement if speced otherwise by an engineer. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 10:11:39 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
Find a structural engineer. Do you have the anchor bolt reactions for the metal building? This will play into the foundation design. What you intend to store in it will play into the slab design. Around here, we have an engineer that charges roughly $700 for a design of this scope. Cheap insurance. This is the best advice yet. When we start a,new design the first thing the engineer needs is the reactions and a soil report It's money well spent. If you don't have the bolt foundations designed correctly the building could potentially blow over on your slab. If you don't get an engineer and depending on the PI of the soil your on. You need minimum 6" thick with #4's on 16" each way 12"x12"or18" grade beam on the perimeter with a 2-#4 top and bottom of the grade beam continuous stirrups at 12"-16" centers. Spread footings at column locations 2'-0"x2-0"x18" #4's top and bottom doulble mat 16" centers. Assuming 20'-0" bay spacing you'll need 57.6yds of concrete order 60 if you have extra poor a door entrance. Saw cut within 24hrs 20'x20' or 10'x10' cut should be 3/4" deep. If you are in a high PI soil disregard and get an engineer |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 10:25:03 AM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
Metal building I read as a pre-engineered metal building. Footings will be required Yes, pre-engineered metal bldg. I'll call Mueller to see what info. they have on my design re: footers etc. |
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Posted: 4/2/2012 10:30:02 AM EDT
[#40]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I am figuring 30 cubic yards of concrete at 4". Don't really know about how to factor in the footers or if I even need them? The location has good iron-ore as foundation. Is it overkill if I go with 3500 psi concrete using 1/2" rebar at 24" centers? What about mesh or fiber, are the any advantages using these vs rebar or with rebar? This heaviest thing this slab might hold would be a tractor-trailer. Also, what price would this slab cost me? I just priced the 30 yards delivered at $3500 alone. That all sounds like too little. I'm about to have my entire parking lot re-poured. I'm using 6" I think the rebar is going to be 12". I know you are in Longview and I know a lot of people. IM and I'll give you a guy's number to use. Parking lot is a lot different than pole barn/pole shed. Depending on the traffic you get in your lot, 6 inches of concrete sounds about right, rebar 12 inches on center is is overkill unless you have unstable soil. And once again, rebar will not stop your concrete from cracking, it's only there to help hold it together after it cracks. There is a joke amongst concrete guys- Concrete has three guarantees: I guarantee it will get hard I guarantee it will turn white I guarantee it will crack I've been pouring concrete for 27 years, both commercial and residential, and we have to deal with frost that goes 4 feet deep and sometimes more up here. ;) One of my best friends is a concrete guy. He also guarantees that his concrete will not be stolen.
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Posted: 4/2/2012 11:01:45 AM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
I am figuring 30 cubic yards of concrete at 4". Don't really know about how to factor in the footers or if I even need them? The location has good iron-ore as foundation. Is it overkill if I go with 3500 psi concrete using 1/2" rebar at 24" centers? What about mesh or fiber, are the any advantages using these vs rebar or with rebar? This heaviest thing this slab might hold would be a tractor-trailer. Also, what price would this slab cost me? I just priced the 30 yards delivered at $3500 alone. For my 40x 60 building 16 foot eve, it took 90 cubic yards of 4000ib concrete with fiber. I used rebar in the footers and wire mesh on the main pad. The pad is about 8" thick, and the rest of the concrete went into the footer and the corners to suppot the vertical corner post of the building from hurricne force winds. I t was a monolithic pour, and took everybit of a crew of 6 to accomplish the task, and it still almost got away from them, because it was setting up so fast. The pad cost me $17,000 , and about $10,000 of it was it material . I got three quotes for the job, and everybody was about the same on price, this was about 10 years ago. If my friends and I had try to work that pour it, it would have been a $10,000 fuckup, I am glad I subbed it out. My building cost me abot $45,000 when completed, and that is with electrical, fully insulated, skylights,windows, and 16' automatic door. My advice to you, is if you do a monlithic pour, hire it out. if you and your brother do it, I would divide the surface area into 4 or 6 sections, and pour one individaul section at a time. I have seen a pad done like this for a metal building, and looked fine. You will just have a lot of joints. Good Luck!!!!! |
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Posted: 4/4/2012 7:30:53 AM EDT
[#42]
Awesome! This is exactly what mine is! I thought the footers were deeper, but it has been a while since they poured them. |
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