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Posted: 9/9/2011 12:50:27 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2011 12:55:15 PM EST by 57Strat]
I have a 12 year old National Security gun safe with an S&G mechanical combination lock. I have noticed lately that the combination dial is getting kinda stiff to turn. I called National Security/Liberty and spoke to tech support, and asked how to lube the lock assembly. They would not tell me anything except that I would need to have a locksmith lube it for me. They said if I tried to remove the panel off of the back of the door to lube the lock that it would reset the lock combination.

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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 12:53:59 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2011 12:54:26 PM EST by godrilla47]
Break free with a straw? I think if you sprayed around the edge of the dial it would get enough in there. NM
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 12:55:13 PM EST
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 12:55:32 PM EST
Don't use a liquid lube; it will gum it up.

Get some graphite (or white graphite) and squirt it in the lock.
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 12:56:09 PM EST
I wouldn't use anything other than powdered graphite to lube a lock. How to introduce it into your lock mechanisim....I haven't a clue.
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 12:56:32 PM EST
Originally Posted By usjet:
http://sglockhelp.com/troubleshoot/



I have already been to that page. They don't tell you how to lube the lock. They just tell you the type of lube to use.


Q. What kind of lubrication should I use in my lock?
A. Sargent and Greenleaf is currently using Aeroshell 22 in factory to lube mechanical locks. You can also use Verislube or Gn Metal Paste. All parts should be wipe thoroughly clean before applying lubicant. Use a thin invisible film for all lubicant points inside all S&G lock cases.

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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 12:57:19 PM EST
Originally Posted By AR4U:
Don't use a liquid lube; it will gum it up.

Get some graphite (or white graphite) and squirt it in the lock.



Just squirt it in the keyhole to lube the whole lock assembly and dial?


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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 1:01:51 PM EST
Good to know about the liquid lube. Could you use one of those ear wax removal bulbs with the graphite inside of it.
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 1:29:13 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2011 1:44:28 PM EST by usjet]
Originally Posted By godrilla47:
Good to know about the liquid lube. Could you use one of those ear wax removal bulbs with the graphite inside of it.


Graphite is for KEY-type locks- NOT combinationlock mechanisms- S&G recommends liquid lube.
Taking the interior panel off the door won't affect the locking mechanism at all. What you might do is take the panel off- use WD40 (Holding a towel under the lock box) and flushe the mechanism really good- then use a hair dryer set on low to dry it all out- you might find the lock works just fine after doing that, but you can then introduce lube into the lock mechanism. You do NOT want to manipulate the mechanism in any way while you do this- you should be then good to go. If you're concerned that you might inadvertently move something, causing the combo to be lost, before you do anything, order the "Re-setting Key"- I got mine from a local safe co., as I bought my safe used and wanted to re-set my combination- instructions are on the S&G site- Whatever you do, do NOT introduce graphite into a mechanism already gummed up with old lube.

EDIT TO ADD: After cleaning and lubing, before replacing interior door panel, test locking mechanism with door open (Set handle to lock position, spin dial- then follow usual procedure to un-lock) if it all goes well, you can then button it all up and you're done.

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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 1:30:57 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2011 1:31:57 PM EST by AR4U]
Originally Posted By 57Strat:
Originally Posted By AR4U:
Don't use a liquid lube; it will gum it up.

Get some graphite (or white graphite) and squirt it in the lock.



Just squirt it in the keyhole to lube the whole lock assembly and dial?



nevermind.
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 1:39:31 PM EST

Originally Posted By usjet:
Originally Posted By godrilla47:
Good to know about the liquid lube. Could you use one of those ear wax removal bulbs with the graphite inside of it.


Graphite is for KEY-type locks- NOT combinationlock mechanisms- S&G recommends liquid lube.
Taking the interior panel off the door won't affect the locking mechanism at all. What you might do is take the panel off- use WD40 (Holding a towel under the lock box) and flushe the mechanism really good- then use a hair dryer set on low to dry it all out- you might find the lock works just fine after doing that, but you can then introduce lube into the lock mechanism. You do NOT want to manipulate the mechanism in any way while you do this- you should be then good to go. If you're concerned that you might inadvertently move something, causing the combo to be lost, before you do anything, order the "Re-setting Key"- I got mine from a local safe co., as I bought my safe used and wanted to re-set my combination- instructions are on the S&G site- Whatever you do, do NOT introduce graphite into a mechanism already gummed up with old lube.


liquid? no no no Dry? no no no.....
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 1:46:09 PM EST
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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 1:51:44 PM EST
Originally Posted By godrilla47:

Originally Posted By usjet:
Originally Posted By godrilla47:
Good to know about the liquid lube. Could you use one of those ear wax removal bulbs with the graphite inside of it.


Graphite is for KEY-type locks- NOT combinationlock mechanisms- S&G recommends liquid lube.
Taking the interior panel off the door won't affect the locking mechanism at all. What you might do is take the panel off- use WD40 (Holding a towel under the lock box) and flushe the mechanism really good- then use a hair dryer set on low to dry it all out- you might find the lock works just fine after doing that, but you can then introduce lube into the lock mechanism. You do NOT want to manipulate the mechanism in any way while you do this- you should be then good to go. If you're concerned that you might inadvertently move something, causing the combo to be lost, before you do anything, order the "Re-setting Key"- I got mine from a local safe co., as I bought my safe used and wanted to re-set my combination- instructions are on the S&G site- Whatever you do, do NOT introduce graphite into a mechanism already gummed up with old lube.


liquid? no no no Dry? no no no.....

Si Si!––––-note my edit above regarding leaving door OPEN until you're sure the damn thing works...

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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 1:59:20 PM EST
Pay a locksmith. Pay him now, or pay him a lot later.

Combination locks like that depend on a predictable friction quality inside of the disc assembly. Fuck that up with the wrong lube, and it will not open with the combination.

Maybe not the day you lube & test it either. Perhaps a month later you will just have a solid steel box full of shit you can't reach any longer. Then you pay the locksmith to open your safe...

.

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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 2:10:40 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2011 2:10:54 PM EST by 57Strat]
Originally Posted By 45ColtBisley:
.gov version of lock maintenance



Great. It appears I need a PHD in combination locks to lube a lock. Thanks though.

I'm calling a locksmith.

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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 2:21:29 PM EST

Originally Posted By Lem:
Pay a locksmith. Pay him now, or pay him a lot later.

Combination locks like that depend on a predictable friction quality inside of the disc assembly. Fuck that up with the wrong lube, and it will not open with the combination.

Maybe not the day you lube & test it either. Perhaps a month later you will just have a solid steel box full of shit you can't reach any longer. Then you pay the locksmith to open your safe...

.



This!


Dont fuck with your safe lock.

I have a beautiful safe I got at a scrap yard. Did the body work to it, painted it, looks like new.

I lubed the lock with WD-40 and put it in the cellar all ready to be used.

Now the lock wont budge!


Anyone want a med sized floor safe? I have the combo.


.


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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 2:33:47 PM EST
Pull the liner out of the inside of the door. This will not "reset the combination." The person who told you that is an idiot.

Some liners have to be lifted, then pushed in at the bottom so they can be lifted out by the top. Others just drop far enough to come out. If there is a plastic plug in the middle of the liner, pull it out. The hole is there to give you a place to grab to lift the liner out of the frame.

You'll see a brass box at the back of the combination dial. It has a screw in each corner and a small hole that looks like a keyhole. Here is the problem. A good safe has a mechanism called a relocker. This mechanism will release a pin to jam the locking bolts in place if a thief tries to hammer the lock out of place. Sometimes these attach to a plate that attaches the lock to the inside of the door. Sometimes they are attached to the lock by one of the four screws in the corners.

IF THERE IS A RELOCKER MECHANISM BLOCKING THE BACK PLATE ON THE LOCK, STOP
. Take pictures of it and post them.

If there is nothing blocking the backplate on the lock mechanism, remove the four screws and there's the lock. Don't unscrew the nut in the middle of it. The tumblers are the round plates. Spray some lube into them and blow it out with a can of air to clean them. Then use graphite or silicone lube to slick it up. For some real fun, dial the combination and watch how the lock operates while you open it. It's a pretty simple machine, but very interesting.

S&G locks also have an internal relocker, which is a part bent at a 90 degree angle. A spring pushes it outwards, so that if the back of the lock comes off, the relocker drops into a hole in the latch and the latch can't retract. Make sure that this pin is in place, cleaned, oiled, and free to move. When you put the plate back on, it pushes the pin out of the way so the latch can move.

After you put the plate back on, leave the door open and open the bolts, then spin the lock so it's locked. There may be a small, metal tab somewhere around the door frame that prevents you from turning the locking bolts unless the door is closed. If there is one, you can usually push on it with your finger and close the locking bolts. Now try your combination again to make sure that the lock is in proper working order.

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Link Posted: 9/9/2011 2:35:08 PM EST
Originally Posted By RaisedByWolves:

Originally Posted By Lem:
Pay a locksmith. Pay him now, or pay him a lot later.

Combination locks like that depend on a predictable friction quality inside of the disc assembly. Fuck that up with the wrong lube, and it will not open with the combination.

Maybe not the day you lube & test it either. Perhaps a month later you will just have a solid steel box full of shit you can't reach any longer. Then you pay the locksmith to open your safe...

.



This!


Dont fuck with your safe lock.

I have a beautiful safe I got at a scrap yard. Did the body work to it, painted it, looks like new.

I lubed the lock with WD-40 and put it in the cellar all ready to be used.

Now the lock wont budge!


Anyone want a med sized floor safe? I have the combo.


.



What won't budge, the dial on the lock or the handle for the locking bolts?
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
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