Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Site Notices
Posted: 11/21/2014 10:42:09 AM EDT
I found a "speed lagering" how-to on the old interwebs, and decided to try it.
Don't laugh, but I make an Amber Bock type beer that is absolutely fantastic. Truthfully, by style it is neither an amber, or a traditional Bock.

Here's the method I used.  I was actually drinking this beer in about 24 days.

  • Chill wort to pitching temp (48°-53°F), pitch adequately sized starter (decanted), set regulator to initial fermentation temp (50°-55°F), and leave beer to ferment 5 days.

  • On the morning of the 5th day (beer should be over 50% attenuated), remove probe from side of fermentor so it measures ambient temp inside chamber and bump regulator up 3°-5°F; continue raising ambient temp 3°-5°F every 12 hours until you reach 65°F then leave it for 2-3 days to finish fermenting and cleaning up.

  • On day 11, start ramping the ambient temp of the chamber down 5°F every 12 hours until it reaches 30°F and let it cold crash/lager for 3-4 more days.


I kegged it on day 21.



10/10 will keep using this method.  

Link Posted: 11/22/2014 11:36:02 AM EDT
[#1]
I saw the same article you did I believe.

I don't have the ability at the moment to be so precise.

What is your set up for temp control and lagering?
Link Posted: 11/22/2014 1:19:07 PM EDT
[#2]
I use the eBay temperature controller in a $75 chest freezer I bought off Craigslist for lagering.  I have a full sized fridge with same eBay controller for ales (which I brew most).
Link Posted: 11/29/2014 8:36:26 PM EDT
[#3]
I am going to try my first lager soon, so I might have to try this method, thanks!

Also, if you want to upgrade the STC-1000, there is a guy over on HBT that made a new firmware that gives temp set points that you can program in to change at certain times.  Sounds like the reflash would be perfect for this.

I have not used it, but I am thinking about reflashing one of my STC-1000s.
Link Posted: 11/30/2014 12:26:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Wow. That is cool. I don't know how I missed that thread.
Now to go back and read all 37 pages of it.
Link Posted: 12/1/2014 1:23:16 PM EDT
[#5]
This isn't how everyone does it?  Hell they are about done fermenting at 5 days already anyway if you pitch the correct amount of yeast--this is basically a d-rest.  Key word "if you pitch enough yeast" with lagers...most folks underpitch I imagine...

Yeah, its pretty good, and very drinkable early that way, I still think its a bit better about a month later though :)
Link Posted: 12/5/2014 3:14:55 AM EDT
[#6]
Looks delicious.  What yeast did you use?
Link Posted: 12/5/2014 9:32:42 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Looks delicious.  What yeast did you use?
View Quote


Yeah, which one and how did it work?  Personal favorite so far has been 830, tried 833 and 860, both OK but 830 was better...They say really good things about the Mexican Lager yeast (940) as a general use one, too.


BTW, a process/technique for you to attempt next time:  When done fermenting and D-rest (60 deg or so, whatever you are at), purge a keg with co2 and transfer into that.  Now do your cold steps in the keg (not trying to carbonate it yet) and if you want it even clearer, add gelatin/finings after its cold.  I want to let it settle a few days like that first and then hit the gas to purge that yeast out of the bottom (without moving it to disturb it).  Now carb it up or lager it.

This keeps you from ingesting O2 thru the airlock during the chilling phase in the fermenter (I am assuming that you aren't so advanced as to have it in a conical that can take pressure and you have CO2 hooked up at low PSI so oxygen can never get in there).  On darker ales, this won't be real noticable, but it might on any lighter, delicate lagers.  Sealed kegs really are the perfect vessel for beer making.
Link Posted: 12/5/2014 12:22:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Yeah, which one and how did it work?  Personal favorite so far has been 830, tried 833 and 860, both OK but 830 was better...They say really good things about the Mexican Lager yeast (940) as a general use one, too.


BTW, a process/technique for you to attempt next time:  When done fermenting and D-rest (60 deg or so, whatever you are at), purge a keg with co2 and transfer into that.  Now do your cold steps in the keg (not trying to carbonate it yet) and if you want it even clearer, add gelatin/finings after its cold.  I want to let it settle a few days like that first and then hit the gas to purge that yeast out of the bottom (without moving it to disturb it).  Now carb it up or lager it.

This keeps you from ingesting O2 thru the airlock during the chilling phase in the fermenter (I am assuming that you aren't so advanced as to have it in a conical that can take pressure and you have CO2 hooked up at low PSI so oxygen can never get in there).  On darker ales, this won't be real noticable, but it might on any lighter, delicate lagers.  Sealed kegs really are the perfect vessel for beer making.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Looks delicious.  What yeast did you use?


Yeah, which one and how did it work?  Personal favorite so far has been 830, tried 833 and 860, both OK but 830 was better...They say really good things about the Mexican Lager yeast (940) as a general use one, too.


BTW, a process/technique for you to attempt next time:  When done fermenting and D-rest (60 deg or so, whatever you are at), purge a keg with co2 and transfer into that.  Now do your cold steps in the keg (not trying to carbonate it yet) and if you want it even clearer, add gelatin/finings after its cold.  I want to let it settle a few days like that first and then hit the gas to purge that yeast out of the bottom (without moving it to disturb it).  Now carb it up or lager it.

This keeps you from ingesting O2 thru the airlock during the chilling phase in the fermenter (I am assuming that you aren't so advanced as to have it in a conical that can take pressure and you have CO2 hooked up at low PSI so oxygen can never get in there).  On darker ales, this won't be real noticable, but it might on any lighter, delicate lagers.  Sealed kegs really are the perfect vessel for beer making.



Here are the ingredients for the recipe (6 gallon batch):
I grew the yeast at room temp to 2 Liters over a few days before brew day. Refrigerated, decanted and poured in fermenter.


Skin, I'm going to do exactly that next couple of lagers.  I only have 3 corny's right now, and they were all 3 being used when I was fermenting this one.
My CL freezer shit the bed last week, so i am getting ready to build a 7.0 CF, 4 tap GE keezer here when I get some free time.
Link Posted: 12/8/2014 7:58:28 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Here are the ingredients for the recipe (6 gallon batch):
I grew the yeast at room temp to 2 Liters over a few days before brew day. Refrigerated, decanted and poured in fermenter.
http://i.imgur.com/TZ379cy.jpg

Skin, I'm going to do exactly that next couple of lagers.  I only have 3 corny's right now, and they were all 3 being used when I was fermenting this one.
My CL freezer shit the bed last week, so i am getting ready to build a 7.0 CF, 4 tap GE keezer here when I get some free time.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Looks delicious.  What yeast did you use?


Yeah, which one and how did it work?  Personal favorite so far has been 830, tried 833 and 860, both OK but 830 was better...They say really good things about the Mexican Lager yeast (940) as a general use one, too.


BTW, a process/technique for you to attempt next time:  When done fermenting and D-rest (60 deg or so, whatever you are at), purge a keg with co2 and transfer into that.  Now do your cold steps in the keg (not trying to carbonate it yet) and if you want it even clearer, add gelatin/finings after its cold.  I want to let it settle a few days like that first and then hit the gas to purge that yeast out of the bottom (without moving it to disturb it).  Now carb it up or lager it.

This keeps you from ingesting O2 thru the airlock during the chilling phase in the fermenter (I am assuming that you aren't so advanced as to have it in a conical that can take pressure and you have CO2 hooked up at low PSI so oxygen can never get in there).  On darker ales, this won't be real noticable, but it might on any lighter, delicate lagers.  Sealed kegs really are the perfect vessel for beer making.



Here are the ingredients for the recipe (6 gallon batch):
I grew the yeast at room temp to 2 Liters over a few days before brew day. Refrigerated, decanted and poured in fermenter.
http://i.imgur.com/TZ379cy.jpg

Skin, I'm going to do exactly that next couple of lagers.  I only have 3 corny's right now, and they were all 3 being used when I was fermenting this one.
My CL freezer shit the bed last week, so i am getting ready to build a 7.0 CF, 4 tap GE keezer here when I get some free time.


Yep, that happens :)  My old CL freezer bit it this year too, that is also a big pain!
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top