I finally have most of the stuff to start kegging.

20lb co2 tank
4 ball lock kegs
4 perlick taps
4 SS shanks
4 gas in connectors w/ gas line
gas regulator
chest freezer w/ temp regulator

Need a 4 way splitter and beverage line

Questions:
What internal/external diameter line for the beer (& length).

Anything else that I am missing that you see?

Do you have the liquid out connectors? do you have the fittings and clamps that go with the conenctors?
having 4 kegs served at the same PSI might not work well, unless they are similar styles of beer.

I like the shanks that use MFL fittings an not barbs. Makes cleaning so much easier.

I have 3/8 and 1/4 lines (internal size) in my setup. the 3/8 pours much better than the 1/4 for me. and my 1/4 is much much longer. I should swap it over to 3/8


Here is a product you cant live without.
Keg Lube.

Works wonders for helping seal up stubborn kegs and helps the disconnects slide on and off easier.

Aaand, I dont have liquit out connectors. Damn!

Ok, those are on order from Amazon.

I keep hearing that 3/16 is the prefered ID for beer line. I was planning on getting it from lowes or homedepot.

I will add Keg Lube to the list.

How do you go about different pressures for different beers?

Ok, just found 4 way secondary gas regulators on Amazon. Ugh, another $170.

Link? I'm looking into a kegging setup as well.

Linky

TL:DR answer: Get 6-10 feet of 3/16 line for each tap, and just serve at one pressure. Most beer styles have a range of carbonation level, and unless you are going for perfection, it will work fine for you. I only have two pressures in my 6 tap kegarator, one for most beers and one slightly higher for wheats / Belgians / etc.
Long answer: First, you need to decide what volume of CO2 you want in a particular keg. Once you know that, you can determine the pressure and line length. You'll find it's a whole lot easier to pick an average and work with that, otherwise you'll be changing line length for every beer style, and that will get annoying.
Choose a temperature you wish to serve at, then choose a volume of CO2 you want in your beer. This chart will then tell you how much pressure you should set your regulator at.
This and this will help you with calculating the line lengths based on that serving pressure. After lots of math, you'll find almost everything you want to serve will fall into the above short answer, although there's nothing wrong with having 4 different serving pressures and line length.





Hope this helps.



ETA: Also, like one of the links says, make sure the lines are as close to the same temp all the way from keg to faucet as much as you can. This alone will screw up serving more than anything else. If you built a keezer, put a computer fan blowing air from bottom to top to help keep it circulated. When I first built mine, I had 10 degree temp differences from the keg to the faucet, and just moving the air around fixed it.





 

Great response! That did help immensely. Thank you.

You don't need 4 regulators unless you plan on serving vastly different styles of beer which require different dispensing pressures.

Get one regulator like this and a manifold like this.

So, got my Keezer built and kegged 3 beers (well, 2 beers and 1 hard cider) last night. I have one more beer to keg and then I will put them all on pressure and get them carbed up. Very satisfying to finally see all of this come together.

One small kink in the works is that the gas manifold that I got came with barbs where as I bought MFL gas hoses. Is there any kind of adapter to convert the barbs to MFL?

May seem like a stupid question but the barbed connections welded/soldered in so I cant simply unscrew them and switch them out.

It's not finished until there's pictures...



For the fittings, if you can't replace the ball valves with mfl style, and you don't want to return it, then the only option is to cut the FFL fitting off of the hose, and slide the hose onto the valve and clamp.

       
 

Yea, I need to get the pics hosted somewhere when I get home and will post.

I have decided to have a short (6") section of hose connected to the barbed connectors, then put male mfl on the end of that and female on the length going to the keg. That way I can easily disconnect when I need to.

I don't know that I would worry too much about it. In the past three years, I could give several examples of wanting to change the end that was on my gas line, but I couldn't give you a single time I wanted to remove my gas line totally. Could save a little money by not adding them, and one less place for a leak.



 

Yea, true. Ok. Non-issue. Carry on!

Pics will be uploaded tonight.

You will want to use thick walled 3/16 beverage line and oetiker clamps after your first leak, so plan accordingly.

That is actually what I bought from word go.

Pics as promised.

I have two labs. Had to put the cabinet around the taps to prevent them licking the taps while no one was home.

Yea, I wondered about that. Everything I bought was from homebrewing places as beer line. I see the same looking stuff at lowes for much cheaper. Wish I knew for sure.

Since you have a fancy new keezer, you could always buy some of said cheaper line, split a batch into 2 kegs, and run a side-by-side comparison for us.

I could actually do that. I just need another keg. Only have 4 and all of them are filled. I do need a couple extra.