Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Site Notices
Posted: 1/5/2015 12:26:52 PM EDT
This is a 9mm vs .45 argument.  There are two camps:

1. tone wood matters
2. only the electronics matters

This argument is not about Acoustic or semi hollow body instruments just solid body electric guitars.

I've been looking at the evidence on "Youtube" and I'm leaning towards the "its all in the electronics" camp.  There is a guy who made a Strat body from press wood from a counted top.  The then put the neck and electronics etc from a real Strat and compared the two bodies wave signatures on a scope.

Begin...
Link Posted: 1/5/2015 12:29:37 PM EDT
[#1]
As all wood resonates, I would say it matters.  Piano's are in the same argument camp.  The same can be said of the acoustic guitar world (think Ovation models).  As far as electric guitars, yes, the pickups play the lead part, but there are some many other variables (neck woods, fretboard material, even frets) that you can't say it is the pickups alone.
Link Posted: 1/5/2015 12:32:42 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 1/6/2015 7:37:50 PM EDT
[#3]
hide glue vs titebond on Les Pauls.  or Indian RW vs Braz.  Maple vs Rosewood vs Ebony.  Nitro vs poly.  short tenon vs long tenon.
Link Posted: 1/6/2015 10:42:13 PM EDT
[#4]
It all matters I have an american Strat with a humbucker in the bridge
position that sounds nothing close to what my LesPaul sounds like which sounds

nothing like an SG with the same pickups.
Link Posted: 1/6/2015 10:54:51 PM EDT
[#5]
It matters, just not how you think it might.  Cheap sugar pine, cypress, basswood, poplar, or bigleaf maple are 1/10th the bulk cost of horduran mahogany or black limba but they sound great, sometimes better.  I make & repair guitars for a living, so I've seen it all. "Tonewood" is also code for "we picked what wasnt split or checked and we marked it up through the ceiling".

Properties like quartersawing, straightness and tightness of grain, moisture content are what makes or breaks a guitar.
Link Posted: 1/7/2015 1:26:15 AM EDT
[#6]
I'm with you. Every damned guitar player and his brother with whom I've worked that played a Teleblaster all had the same annoying tone.
Link Posted: 1/7/2015 12:53:21 PM EDT
[#7]
It matters, but not as much as scale length and pickups. Go to a guitar shop and look for two of the same model with different tone woods. It's fairly stark.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 4:50:00 PM EDT
[#8]
Of course it matters!

Put the same pickups in a big slab of mahogany (like an LP or Explorer) and a Strat made from poplar, ash, or basswood. BIG difference in tone, feel, response. And it's not because of the scale length. My 2001 LP Standard and my Tom Anderson Drop Top Classic are my favorite two axes right now, hands-down. They could not be more different. And it's not because of scale length or pickups.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 4:55:35 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
This is a 9mm vs .45 argument.  There are two camps:

1. tone wood matters
2. only the electronics matters

This argument is not about Acoustic or semi hollow body instruments just solid body electric guitars.

I've been looking at the evidence on "Youtube" and I'm leaning towards the "its all in the electronics" camp.  There is a guy who made a Strat body from press wood from a counted top.  The then put the neck and electronics etc from a real Strat and compared the two bodies wave signatures on a scope.

Begin...
View Quote



It's not all in the electronics, BUT...

I would say that one of the biggest differences in tone can be made with the AMPLIFIER. I used to own a pair of PRS Custom 24s back in the late 90s. I was so proud to own those guitars. But my tone really wasn't special, and I got bored with them. Fast-forward several years. My guitars were much more pedestrian, but I started buying boutique amps (Hughes & Kettner Triamp, Bogner Shiva & XTC, etc). My tone was awesome. I would rather play a fairly cheap guitar through a holy grail amp, than a holy grail guitar through a cheap amp. So you're statement regarding electronics does hold some water. Obviously, for the best tone you get the holy grail guitar and run it into the holy grail amp. But then again... I've known plenty of guys with big pocketbooks who STILL sound like ass. And that's because... 1) they can't play well, and/or 2) they have a tin ear and just keep dialing-up the same lame tone no matter what they're plugged-into.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 6:18:52 PM EDT
[#10]
I have a couple different Bass with the same pickups.  I get different tones from them on the same settings.  Not a ton, but noticeable.  None are unpleasant, just a bit different.  I will say, the sustain is better on my Rick than it is on the Shecter.
Link Posted: 1/9/2015 8:41:55 PM EDT
[#11]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
It's not all in the electronics, BUT...



I would say that one of the biggest differences in tone can be made with the AMPLIFIER. I used to own a pair of PRS Custom 24s back in the late 90s. I was so proud to own those guitars. But my tone really wasn't special, and I got bored with them. Fast-forward several years. My guitars were much more pedestrian, but I started buying boutique amps (Hughes & Kettner Triamp, Bogner Shiva & XTC, etc). My tone was awesome. I would rather play a fairly cheap guitar through a holy grail amp, than a holy grail guitar through a cheap amp. So you're statement regarding electronics does hold some water. Obviously, for the best tone you get the holy grail guitar and run it into the holy grail amp. But then again... I've known plenty of guys with big pocketbooks who STILL sound like ass. And that's because... 1) they can't play well, and/or 2) they have a tin ear and just keep dialing-up the same lame tone no matter what they're plugged-into.

View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Quoted:

This is a 9mm vs .45 argument.  There are two camps:



1. tone wood matters

2. only the electronics matters



This argument is not about Acoustic or semi hollow body instruments just solid body electric guitars.



I've been looking at the evidence on "Youtube" and I'm leaning towards the "its all in the electronics" camp.  There is a guy who made a Strat body from press wood from a counted top.  The then put the neck and electronics etc from a real Strat and compared the two bodies wave signatures on a scope.



Begin...






It's not all in the electronics, BUT...



I would say that one of the biggest differences in tone can be made with the AMPLIFIER. I used to own a pair of PRS Custom 24s back in the late 90s. I was so proud to own those guitars. But my tone really wasn't special, and I got bored with them. Fast-forward several years. My guitars were much more pedestrian, but I started buying boutique amps (Hughes & Kettner Triamp, Bogner Shiva & XTC, etc). My tone was awesome. I would rather play a fairly cheap guitar through a holy grail amp, than a holy grail guitar through a cheap amp. So you're statement regarding electronics does hold some water. Obviously, for the best tone you get the holy grail guitar and run it into the holy grail amp. But then again... I've known plenty of guys with big pocketbooks who STILL sound like ass. And that's because... 1) they can't play well, and/or 2) they have a tin ear and just keep dialing-up the same lame tone no matter what they're plugged-into.




I'd say for guitar that this is 100% the case. Every guitar I own, despite having unique characteristics and sounds, all end up being about the same in the mix. Or, close enough.



I can't say the same about bass. Although amp matters, I've found that 'holy grail' bass that has an extremely unique tone. Even identical factory counter parts don't sound the same. In this one example I have, I have to say that my bass is more important than my amplifier.



Although, if I'm not playing through something that allows for sparkling clean highs, it's redundant as fuck.
Link Posted: 1/11/2015 4:11:20 PM EDT
[#12]
Both matter. Every type of wood has general characteristics, and every piece of wood within a wood type is unique. For instance, I have three MIJ Jackson DK2 Dinkys, all of them have a Seymour Duncan JB in the bridge with Alder bodies, bolt on Maple necks, and Rosewood fretboards. Each one sounds a little different.












Warmoth.com has a page on their site that describes each wood type. They did a pretty good job with the descriptions and it's worth reading.










When it comes to pickups, it depends on the wood, the construction, and the body shape.










A good example of how construction makes a difference is when you compare a Jackson Dinky (they all have bolt on necks) and a Jackson Soloist (same shape as a Dinky, but with Neck Thru construction). My Soloist has a JB just like my Dinkys do, but when you A/B them, the Soloist is muddy compared to the Dinkys. Why, they both have Alder bodies? Construction. Even though the Soloist has a Maple top and an Ebony fretboard (both of which brighten a guitar's tone) the neck through construction does darken the tone. Whereas the bolt on construction of the Dinkys adds a brightness and extra snap to the tone, most commonly referred to attack. So you have to take all of that into consideration, along with pickup selection, woods, strings, picks, ect.










Here's a few examples of what I prefer for different guitars:










A traditional Les Paul type? I'm probably going to want a hot rodded PAF type pickup, a traditional PAF, or something along the lines of an old school Gibson Dirty Fingers set.










A Mahogany Explorer? A Duncan Screamin' Demon in the bridge and a Full Shred Neck or the afore mentioned Dirty Fingers set.










Strat or Super Strat? Duncan JB in the bridge with whatever I feel like throwing in the other two slots at the moment.










Neck through with an Alder body? That one's still up in the air for me. I have an extra Screamin' Demon that's probably going to go into my Soloist. But I also have been wanting to try a Duncan Jason Becker Perpetual Burn, so I'll probably put it in my KV2 King V (Neck Thru with Alder wings).










Ibanez RG with a Basswood body? What is now known ad the Dimebag Darrel set, a Dimebucker in the bridge and a '59 Bridge in the neck slot. The Dimebucker is too scooped out in other guitars for my tastes, but in a Basswood body with a bolt on Maple neck, its great. The Basswood's warmth and lack of a top end works well with the Dimebucker and the '59 Bridge is just about the perfect pickup to pair with the Dime.










ect.......









 
Link Posted: 1/11/2015 8:40:16 PM EDT
[#13]
I have enough experiences to say that wood does matter. Type of wood that is but the most important thing is sustain. One piece Mahogany body and one piece Maple neck bolted on (my Harper) has more sustain and resonance than my Carvin DC127 which is a Maple neckthru with Alder wings. I did a lot of pup swaps on both guitars til I found the tone best suited to a guitar. What sounded bad on my Carvin sounded good on my Harper and vice versa.

IMO the best construction is one piece body with a bolted on one piece neck. Also premium cuts of wood matters.
Link Posted: 1/12/2015 7:36:07 PM EDT
[#14]
I have 3 Jackson Superstats....A soloist & 2 Dinkys.


All 3 have Dimarzio X2N's in the bridge and Dimarzio Super 2's in the neck.


All 3 have a Jackson 580LP Bridge.


A 3 have a different tone....noticeably different.





I don't remember which body is which type wood, but each is more pronounced in different areas of the frequency spectrum.

 
Link Posted: 1/12/2015 10:52:26 PM EDT
[#15]
I've been playing for 50+ years and have owned dozens of guitars. The good ones (made from the right wood) are a breeze to play and they have superior response and tone. This responsiveness and tone clearly comes through even when playing the guitar without an amp. The bad ones with tone soaking wood are like trudging through wet sand - they work the hell out of you to play them whether you're plugged into an amp or not. No electronics will fix this for the player, although to the typical listener the guitars will sound about the same. Most listeners never consciously notice the subtleties even though they are there in the sound.

Generally speaking I prefer a bolt-on neck, alder wood for the body and a maple neck. This combination for my style of heavy handed playing gives the best tone, sustain and response, and also has superb harmonic overtones. I'll add I have two identical model Strats both made the same year and one has slightly better tone and response than the other. They have both been set up identical with pickup height measured with a micrometer. Clearly one has a little more magic in the wood than the other.
Link Posted: 1/15/2015 10:30:23 PM EDT
[#16]
Wood absolutely matters...

At one point I owned two Alembic Series  basses.  The electronics were exactly the same in both of them...One bass had a maple body, the other bass had a coco-bolo body.  

The difference in tone was absolutely astounding..literally night and die.  The maple was bright, tight, and clear.  The coco-bolo was very dark and woody sounding.
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top