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Posted: 8/5/2017 11:09:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Harbor Freight hammer drill should last for six or a dozen holes. Beyond that maybe not. Could always rent one at local hardware store. Although would probably be more than the Harbor Freight one.
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Posted: 8/5/2017 11:13:26 PM EDT
[#2]
You might but having done it, it sucks.
It takes forever and sometimes doesn't work at all. You can get a cheaper one for under $100 or a good one for under $200.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/5/2017 11:33:32 PM EDT
[#3]
Drilling holes for anchors, like red heads or plastic anchors?
First thought go rent an SDS drill you can drill 1/2 dozen holes in minutes... If you have access to cordless hammer drill 1/2" chuck like Milwaukee or Dewalt buy a SDS drill bit, it will work better and will last longer than a cheap masonry bit |
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Posted: 8/5/2017 11:40:33 PM EDT
[#4]
NO.
NO. YES. |
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Posted: 8/5/2017 11:48:43 PM EDT
[#5]
I spent 80 on the big hf sds hammer drill and it has held up VERY well making long 3/8 holes in concrete.. I would take the risk on the small one.
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Posted: 8/6/2017 12:14:15 AM EDT
[#6]
Harbor Freight carries a hammer drill located away from their normal power tool displays. Look over in their concrete mixer tool section, there is a concrete hammer drill that uses SDS bits. Buy that one.
I have been using that one, purchased at around $110, for drilling 5/8 inch diameter holes in numerous concrete slabs...setting moisture testing probes. It hammers in and makes quick work. I recently upgraded to a battery powered Milwaukee, at over $800, that gets the job done with less effort. The cheaper Harbor Freight drill is still working, just as back up status now. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 1:07:00 AM EDT
[#7]
100+ holes in block and slab with my $25 HF hammer drill. Also used it for wood as a regular drill for another hundred holes. It's still going strong. Don't waste money on professional tools unless you're going to use them regularly.
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Posted: 8/6/2017 5:44:49 AM EDT
[#8]
For what your doin any will do. Want the best? Hilti.
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Posted: 8/6/2017 7:17:25 AM EDT
[#9]
I have the medium size HF SDS hammer drill. I think it's about $80. It is well worth it. I used it with a scraper bit to remove tiles from a fireplace hearth, and am using it now to drill through 12" of solid base block (bit from Bosch). It works very well. I would get that one.
Hammer Drill This is the updated version of what I have, which is no longer made. I wanted to use it with a clay spade, but the bigger attachments only come is SDS MAX, which has a much larger bit diameter and is incompatible with SDS and SDS PLUS. I had the bigger HF SDS MAX on the checkout counter with my 20% off coupon. The downside of all the HF "branding" like Bauer and Predator is that it makes it easy for them to restrict the coupon to stuff you don't want. When the coupon didn't work, I told them to keep it. For just a few small holes, any hammer drill will be fine. The hammer function really does make a difference, and you don't want to use water. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 10:29:36 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I'll be needing to drill a half dozen or so 3/8" holes in a concrete slab for anchors. I have a good corded electric drill, but it's not a hammer drill. Can I get by with that? Should I be running water over the bit while I drill? Should I buy a $40 Harbor Freight hammer drill and hope it holds out? No water. Milwaukee 5378-20 1/2 inch will last and works well. Make sure you have a spare drill bit. They must communicate somehow. If you only have one it WILL break. If you have two they never seem to break. If it gets stopped you need a drill-hammer for whatever you are drilling into. Make sure the bits are designed for a hammer-drill. Air to blow the hole out is a good idea. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 10:51:12 AM EDT
[#11]
I've used a regular drill to put holes in concrete. If your willing to spend half a day on the holes go for it. I've also used a combo drill with a hammer drill setting. The difference was eye opening. Spend a few dollars and save time for more productive things.
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Posted: 8/6/2017 10:52:48 AM EDT
[#12]
Thanks everybody!
It's good to hear HF stuff works; you can't beat their prices. For me it's a 50 min drive each way along with a toll bridge to get to the big city. Locally I can get this Ryobi Model # D620H for $50 - it has one poor review on amazon and one good review on youtube. Or I'll just rent one at home depot and later get the HF one for future use the next time I'm in Tacoma- can't be much for an hour of use. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 11:56:20 AM EDT
[#13]
I have a couple Ryobi tools. I've been happy with them.
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Posted: 8/6/2017 2:35:04 PM EDT
[#14]
4 options:
I think harbor freight will hold up fine Buy cheap $20 black and decker from walmart with hammer feature Rent from home depot Buy reconditioned hitachi from big sky tools There is no comparison between a cheap drill with a hammer feature and a real hammer drill I have done 2,3, and 4. Do not to 2. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 7:15:49 PM EDT
[#15]
If you don't want to buy one just to do couple holes, go rent one at Home Depot if they have a tool rental by you. They rent all different sizes. We are issued Hilti hammer drills at work although if they break our boss tells us to go buy the cheap ones at harbor freight. I've been using the same Hilti for the past 18.5 years
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Posted: 8/7/2017 6:28:22 AM EDT
[#16]
I bought a cheaper dewalt 4 years ago and its still going strong. Ive drilled countless holes, mixed concrete, thinset, drywall mud. Im pretty sure it was under $100
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Posted: 8/7/2017 7:38:25 AM EDT
[#17]
get a dewalt cordless hammer drill. It works great and you need a good cordless drill/screw gun
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Posted: 8/7/2017 8:55:52 AM EDT
[#18]
You can get by without the hammer drill; BTDT. With a purpose built carbide bit designed for a non-hammer drill, it will take longer to drill the holes, but you will get them done. You may have to stop in between holes to let the bit cool, it will get very hot.
I drilled 4 1/2" holes into concrete porch for railing. Took maybe 5-10 minutes per hole and while the bit was cooling I set the anchor in the hole I just drilled. I also drilled 4 deep 1/2" holes along the side of a pad to attach a new pad (epoxy rebar into the holes), that took a bit longer because it was harder to get enough pressure on the drill. For half-dozen holes I say don't waste the money on hammer drills. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 2:45:00 PM EDT
[#19]
With a purpose built carbide bit designed for a non-hammer drill, it will take longer to drill the holes, but you will get them done. And then you can try and move the hole. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 2:50:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Jobs are so much easier (usually) when you simply use the right tool.
Even purpose built cheap tools will typically last much longer than you'll use it if you are an occasional DIY'er. Otherwise even midgrade tools will last longer than you'd expect and may never need to replace. Use it as an excuse to pick up a new tool. Who doesn't like buying new tools? |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 4:13:07 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jobs are so much easier (usually) when you simply use the right tool. Even purpose built cheap tools will typically last much longer than you'll use it if you are an occasional DIY'er. Otherwise even midgrade tools will last longer than you'd expect and may never need to replace. Use it as an excuse to pick up a new tool. Who doesn't like buying new tools? Also we're not kidding either. That numbers of holes with a rotary hammer will take you mere minutes to complete. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 5:54:33 PM EDT
[#22]
IME, a regular drill will wander as it gets pushed all over by the rocks in the aggregate. A rotary hammer takes a much straighter path.
Make a starter hole with a smaller bit, then go to final size. Air or vacuum from your shop vac to clean out the dust... or water if you can wait for it to dry. Make a small nozzle (from tubing and duct tape) that fits inside the final hole. IME - don't buy that small RYOBI. I hate to say it,... I'd buy the Harbor Freight (BAUER), instead of that Ryobi. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 6:12:40 PM EDT
[#23]
I have the rotary hammer HF drill. It came with bits. I haven't dulled or broken a bit. I used the tool for several projects and now loan it out to just about anyone.
It is still running ten years later. I think you will be OK with it. 
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Posted: 8/8/2017 11:16:29 PM EDT
[#24]
You want a rotary hammer, not a hammer drill and definitely not a cordless hammer drill.
Buy a cheap one from HF, with a coupon if possible. It'll work fine for 10 holes, just get a good bit like the Bosch Bulldog X5L series. The rotary hammers have SDS plus or SDS max (and less commonly Spline) shank bits. If it isn't one of those, it's just a hammer drill and not as effective as a rotary hammer. I don't care what anyone says. |
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Posted: 8/9/2017 1:04:17 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You want a rotary hammer, not a hammer drill and definitely not a cordless hammer drill. Buy a cheap one from HF, with a coupon if possible. It'll work fine for 10 holes, just get a good bit like the Bosch Bulldog X5L series. The rotary hammers have SDS plus or SDS max (and less commonly Spline) shank bits. If it isn't one of those, it's just a hammer drill and not as effective as a rotary hammer. I don't care what anyone says. OP wants a ROTARY HAMMER not hammer drill. They are very different. |
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Posted: 8/9/2017 1:28:52 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, thanks for that correction. I also misused the terms but have corrected my post. OP wants a ROTARY HAMMER not hammer drill. They are very different. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You want a rotary hammer, not a hammer drill and definitely not a cordless hammer drill. Buy a cheap one from HF, with a coupon if possible. It'll work fine for 10 holes, just get a good bit like the Bosch Bulldog X5L series. The rotary hammers have SDS plus or SDS max (and less commonly Spline) shank bits. If it isn't one of those, it's just a hammer drill and not as effective as a rotary hammer. I don't care what anyone says. OP wants a ROTARY HAMMER not hammer drill. They are very different. |
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Posted: 8/9/2017 12:23:35 PM EDT
[#27]
No problem, you were 100% correct. Look even at the OP's title, "Hammer Drill", he's got it wrong, too. Yours was an important clarification.
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Posted: 8/9/2017 9:50:56 PM EDT
[#28]
This is getting to be an expensive half-dozen or so holes...
Then how about we discuss alternative methods for securing a shed wall bottom plate to a concrete slab? What are some other options and the pros & cons of using them? |
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Posted: 8/9/2017 11:00:42 PM EDT
[#29]
If your anchor bolts where set into the concrete pad/footing/foundation, that would be the best way. They aren't, so scratch that. You can rent a powder actuated nailer and shoot nails through your PT board into the concrete, but that isn't exactly ideal even for a shed. Tapcons are not much better.
A hammer drill will work, it just won't be as fast or as good as a rotary hammer. The bits are 5-10 bucks (amazon or big box store) for a good one. You can rent a small RH, or buy the Ryobi hammer drill and make do with that. Really if it's a few holes the hammer drill will work. Me, personally, I'd use this as an excuse to buy a rotary hammer if I didn't already have one. If you don't think you'll use it again any time soon or ever again, buy the cheap hammer drill or rent a rotary hammer. Wedge anchors, given your current situation, are the best way to attach the sill plates to the concrete. The other methods mentioned above would be more for interior walls in a basement, for example. Really the half ass shit way to attach sill plates for a shed. @Mainsail |
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Posted: 8/9/2017 11:18:15 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your anchor bolts where set into the concrete pad/footing/foundation, that would be the best way. Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your anchor bolts where set into the concrete pad/footing/foundation, that would be the best way. A hammer drill will work, it just won't be as fast or as good as a rotary hammer. The bits are 5-10 bucks (amazon or big box store) for a good one. You can rent a small RH, or buy the Ryobi hammer drill and make do with that.
Really if it's a few holes the hammer drill will work. Me, personally, I'd use this as an excuse to buy a rotary hammer if I didn't already have one. If you don't think you'll use it again any time soon or ever again, buy the cheap hammer drill or rent a rotary hammer. Wedge anchors, given your current situation, are the best way to attach the sill plates to the concrete. The other methods mentioned above would be more for interior walls in a basement, for example. Really the half ass shit way to attach sill plates for a shed. @Mainsail |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 6:51:50 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Until you find the stone in the concrete that is harder than carbide. And then you can try and move the hole. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Until you find the stone in the concrete that is harder than carbide. And then you can try and move the hole. Yes, you may hit a hard stone that takes a bit to get through, but it will go through. Quoted:
IME, a regular drill will wander as it gets pushed all over by the rocks in the aggregate. A rotary hammer takes a much straighter path. OP, if you have future uses for an SDS rotary hammer then by all means get it, it will definitely save you time. If you're looking for an excuse to add a tool to your collection that may or may not get much use then by all means, get it. OTOH, if you just want the holes take a reality check. These guys telling you it can't be done (or done right) with a regular drill are lying to you. They have no skin in the game, they are telling you the best way to do it, without regard for cost etc. I've done many more holes than you intend to do with a plain drill and I've NEVER considered buying a rotary hammer just for the occasional anchor hole in concrete, the regular drill has performed well-enough. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 6:57:48 AM EDT
[#32]
I bought that ryobi do install my safe OP. I did so after attempted to drill into the slab with a regular drill. The ryobi with a new masonary bit went through like butter.
Not a contractor grade tool but will easily do what you need OP |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 3:16:41 PM EDT
[#33]
Stone harder than carbide? It is a composite material and there is plenty of stuff in concrete that will abrade carbide. I have worn out plenty of carbide drills, saw blades, and cutting tools. While the individual grains of carbide are tough the matrix that holds them is not. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 6:01:39 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Carbide is available in numerous grades. It is a composite material and there is plenty of stuff in concrete that will abrade carbide. I have worn out plenty of carbide drills, saw blades, and cutting tools. While the individual grains of carbide are tough the matrix that holds them is not. Yes, carbide will abrade (I won't get into the semantics of abrasion vs microscopic chipping), yes, there are different grades of carbide, and the only things harder than tungsten carbide are exotics (mostly other carbides) and diamond... that's why your statement was confusing. Buy a bit made for a normal drill (they will actually state NOT to use in a hammer drill or rotary hammer right on the packaging) and it will be a highly abrasion resistant grade. The reason it states NOT to use a hammer drill is because they are not as shock/impact resistant as purpose-made hammer bits. It will still do the job unless your concrete has exotic materials in it. IE, UL listed composite burglary safes often include tungsten-carbide nuggets in the concrete mix to defeat carbide bits & cutting tools. I find it VERY EXTREMELY IMPROBABLE that the OP's concrete pad for his shed includes such materials. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 6:34:01 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stone harder than carbide? What precious stones are you silly Virginians mixing into your concrete that are harder than carbide? Even quartz is several steps down the Mohs scale from carbide. Yes, you may hit a hard stone that takes a bit to get through, but it will go through. The OP is bolting a shed to a concrete slab, not boring precision locating holes for metrology equipment. Drill wander is going to happen no matter what he uses, the extent of the drill wander is irrelevant to this issue. He will break a bit from drill wander before the amount of wander exceeds the necessary accuracy for bolting a shed to a slab. OP, if you have future uses for an SDS rotary hammer then by all means get it, it will definitely save you time. If you're looking for an excuse to add a tool to your collection that may or may not get much use then by all means, get it. OTOH, if you just want the holes take a reality check. These guys telling you it can't be done (or done right) with a regular drill are lying to you. They have no skin in the game, they are telling you the best way to do it, without regard for cost etc. I've done many more holes than you intend to do with a plain drill and I've NEVER considered buying a rotary hammer just for the occasional anchor hole in concrete, the regular drill has performed well-enough. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Until you find the stone in the concrete that is harder than carbide. And then you can try and move the hole. Yes, you may hit a hard stone that takes a bit to get through, but it will go through. Quoted:
IME, a regular drill will wander as it gets pushed all over by the rocks in the aggregate. A rotary hammer takes a much straighter path. OP, if you have future uses for an SDS rotary hammer then by all means get it, it will definitely save you time. If you're looking for an excuse to add a tool to your collection that may or may not get much use then by all means, get it. OTOH, if you just want the holes take a reality check. These guys telling you it can't be done (or done right) with a regular drill are lying to you. They have no skin in the game, they are telling you the best way to do it, without regard for cost etc. I've done many more holes than you intend to do with a plain drill and I've NEVER considered buying a rotary hammer just for the occasional anchor hole in concrete, the regular drill has performed well-enough. Also, it will take forever to drill a dozen 3/8" holes 3" deep into concrete with a regular drill and masonry bit, unless the concrete was very poorly mixed and poured (like my fucking driveway  ). Even a hammer drill will be much faster, a rotary hammer being an order of magnitude faster and more accurate.
Can it be done? Sure it can. Is a small investment the wise thing to do to avoid aggravation and do the job faster and more accurately? I think it is. Others may not agree, of course. |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 7:04:10 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The problem with a regular drill and masonry bit is that the bit will wobble/wander and often times make a hole larger than you want. For drilling into stucco or brick and using lag shields that's not a big problem. For drilling in concrete using wedge anchors, it is a problem. This has been my experience. Others may differ. I understand where you're coming from. Rotary hammer is absolutely the best tool for the job, but it's not the only tool as many have implied. FWIW, I have run rotary hammers (Hilti and Dewalt) for work-related purposes before and I know that they can make life easier, but they are not a miracle device. Unless the OP's concrete has some unusually hard aggregate a regular drill will function fine with a $7 drill-bit from the big-box store. |
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Posted: 8/12/2017 2:17:12 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So you miss-spoke about the "stone harder than carbide" or you just now learned all of the above from google? I was making a quick reply and did not have to review ANY of this. If YOU understood how carbide is made and operates you likely would have understood. |
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Posted: 8/12/2017 8:53:32 PM EDT
[#38]
Update to the drilling. I drilled seven holes with my regular corded drill and sunk anchors in all of them. I had one spot where the drill bit stopped and spun like it wasn't going anywhere, and since I'm the one that poured the slab I'm pretty sure there was rebar in that spot. I moved the hole over the width of the rebar and it was good.
Thanks for all the helpful advice! 
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Posted: 8/13/2017 10:15:51 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The stone is indeed harder than ANY carbide you can obtain. I was making a quick reply and did not have to review ANY of this. If YOU understood how carbide is made and operates you likely would have understood. Yes, I know that the binding substrate that holds the carbide together is softer, but the carbide itself is absolutely harder. The "angle" you're trying to argue this from is founded on a complete misunderstanding of how carbide works and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that. Unlike you, I actually DO know how carbide is made, it's actually part of my job to know... how it's made doesn't change how it functions (in the way you're trying to argue). Just like diamond particles held in a soft substrate easily abrades carbide and other extremely hard materials (including diamond), carbide held in a soft substrate equally abrades hard materials as hard as the carbide. This isn't a typical case of "weakest link in a chain"... For further reference, view the post below your last, the OP had NO problem drilling his holes with a normal drill. |
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Posted: 8/14/2017 2:41:41 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Update to the drilling. I drilled seven holes with my regular corded drill and sunk anchors in all of them. I had one spot where the drill bit stopped and spun like it wasn't going anywhere, and since I'm the one that poured the slab I'm pretty sure there was rebar in that spot. I moved the hole over the width of the rebar and it was good. Thanks for all the helpful advice! However, and it must be said, you have failed the test completely. Here at ARFCOM, it is required that you buy the tool. If you do not buy the tool, you cannot pass. 
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Posted: 8/14/2017 3:47:14 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gratz! However, and it must be said, you have failed the test completely. Here at ARFCOM, it is required that you buy the tool. If you do not buy the tool, you cannot pass. |
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Posted: 8/16/2017 9:37:23 PM EDT
[#42]
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