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Posted: 6/17/2017 7:04:42 PM EDT
OK, the weather has finally become more appropriate to the time of year around here and the shed plans must go forward. I'm going with an 8'X10' garden shed built on a deck or skid style floor. It won't be extremely heavy, no riding mower, tire machine, or milling machines will be stored there. Just the push mower, garden tools, and a few cans of diesel.
The concrete floor was too cost prohibitive so I've decided to move ahead with either a skid style, sonotube, or deck blocks. The problem is the only good spot for a shed in the yard had a slope.  Attached File- I could bring the high corner down level with the low corner and build another retaining rock-wall (the yard is nothing but rock walls) to support the back left corner soil from eroding. - I could bring the high corner down a little and the low corner up, sort of a compromise. - I could leave the slope intact and have the shed sitting on the ground in the high corner and way above the ground in the low corner. Thoughts? What would be the best foundation to deal with this slope; skid, sonotube, or deck blocks? |
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Posted: 6/17/2017 8:10:50 PM EDT
[#1]
The type of grade will determine the best support/foundation for the floor system.
If you level it all out, then blocks would probably be best. If you are going to leave the high side high, then tubes would help bring up the lower end. I would probably just compromise by moving some of the higher side down, and then lvl the rest of the way with blocks. That would probably be the easiest and most economical option. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 6:03:05 AM EDT
[#2]
I think I'd vote for making the whole floor level with the highest point on the ground. If you dig in on the high side, any water that used to run down that slope in a rain is now going to try and get into your shed.
Or rent a guy with a Bobcat to come in and grade the whole area, building up for the shed and taking runoff into account. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 11:47:58 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think I'd vote for making the whole floor level with the highest point on the ground. If you dig in on the high side, any water that used to run down that slope in a rain is now going to try and get into your shed. If I dig out the high side to level with the low, I can put a retaining wall to give some space between the ground and the building. Still trying to decide whether to build on blocks, dig for sonotubes, or just lay skids. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 12:03:15 PM EDT
[#4]
You could dig corner post holes, drop in a footer, and concrete in some pressure treated 4x4s.
Once they're set, the post on the high corner gets cut to where you need it above grade and the others are cut to match. Another way is to cut those posts in advance (but a little long), build your floor frame, and carry the whole thing like a table over to the holes. Drop in, cut posts and adjust as needed, then concrete. That way you're not fighting misaligned posts when you're trying to build the deck. eta: You could then use soil or crushed stone to form a ramp. Doing so on the high side would be the easiest. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 12:17:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Just rent a regular garden Roto tiller and run it in the high side to break up the dirt then shovel/rake it to the low side.
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Posted: 6/18/2017 12:20:04 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That would be the easiest because it would involve the least amount of dirt moving. The problem is that if I use 2x6s for the floor then that puts the building up over 6" off the ground on the high side. That means the high side will be 6" off the deck, but the low side could be over a foot, and I want the building as low to the ground as possible for moving the mower in and out. If I dig out the high side to level with the low, I can put a retaining wall to give some space between the ground and the building. Still trying to decide whether to build on blocks, dig for sonotubes, or just lay skids. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I think I'd vote for making the whole floor level with the highest point on the ground. If you dig in on the high side, any water that used to run down that slope in a rain is now going to try and get into your shed. If I dig out the high side to level with the low, I can put a retaining wall to give some space between the ground and the building. Still trying to decide whether to build on blocks, dig for sonotubes, or just lay skids. 
If you do decide to dig in bring the floor level down, I'd think about maybe a French drain (basically a ditch with a perforated pipe in in it, surrounded by gravel) in the area between the shed and the retaining wall. The retaining wall is there to stop dirt from moving, not water. Eventually the water's gonna go where it wants to go... downhill. The drain will make sure it's carried away from the shed. Or, go ahead and build up level with the high corner, then have a load of topsoil brought in and build up a slope to the shed door. Still some dirtwork involved, but it'd also help ensure than any runoff from the shed itself goes on about its merry way instead of hanging out around the foundation of the shed. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 1:59:07 PM EDT
[#7]
Sonotubes. They really are easy to work with.
That isn't much concrete so the price shouldn't be too high. Heck, I prefer to hire concrete guys for flatwork but for just a shed that size, I would even give it a shot. Form it up and order a load of concrete. But if you aren't going to do that, with the slope you have, I'd do sonotubes. You can even mix that much by hand in a wheel barrow. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 6:32:43 PM EDT
[#8]
I asked about getting the concrete floor, which I would prefer. I filled out the request form on two of the local concrete companies websites, only one bothered to answer:
Can you please give me a ballpark number on pouring a concrete slab for a garden shed? Anticipating an 8'x10' shed that will not be used for anything heavier than a push lawnmower. I will rough prep the spot- dig it out to relatively level. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 6:36:48 PM EDT
[#9]
OK, how about another question.
If I use 2X6s to build the floor, will it be strong enough to be supported only at the four corners (with sonotubes or blocks)? |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 7:34:10 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I asked about getting the concrete floor, which I would prefer. I filled out the request form on two of the local concrete companies websites, only one bothered to answer: That seems way high to me, and it's at least double what I would want to spend for a small shed. Not sure what kind of a shed you are building but $375 to build a shed is very low unless you are getting some of the materials for free. With a wood framed floor I don't see any way you can come close to that price. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 7:36:22 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, how about another question. If I use 2X6s to build the floor, will it be strong enough to be supported only at the four corners (with sonotubes or blocks)? |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 9:20:09 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure what kind of a shed you are building but $375 to build a shed is very low unless you are getting some of the materials for free. With a wood framed floor I don't see any way you can come close to that price. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 10:30:14 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, I meant for the foundation all by itself. They quoted $750 but I wouldn't want to go higher than about $400 for the slab. Above that and the wood floor seems like a more economical choice. The concrete will be more solid and long term you'll have less problems IMO. For $350 difference I think the concrete would be totally worth it. |
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Posted: 6/20/2017 1:33:38 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, how about another question. If I use 2X6s to build the floor, will it be strong enough to be supported only at the four corners (with sonotubes or blocks)? As for your slope, a friend of mine has a very large shed on a similar type of slope. The bottom of the shed has 3 runners that go the length of the shed and it's up on cinder blocks (doubled up) spaced every 3 or 4 feet. If he didn't live so far away, I'd take a picture. It works quite well. |
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Posted: 6/20/2017 2:01:41 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As someone who built their shed (10x16) I can strongly recommend not using 2x6 for the floor. There are calculators out there where you can put in your span and board spacing and it'll recommend the correct size. As the other person said, 2x8 minimum. Quote HistoryQuoted:
As someone who built their shed (10x16) I can strongly recommend not using 2x6 for the floor. There are calculators out there where you can put in your span and board spacing and it'll recommend the correct size. As the other person said, 2x8 minimum. As for your slope, a friend of mine has a very large shed on a similar type of slope. The bottom of the shed has 3 runners that go the length of the shed and it's up on cinder blocks (doubled up) spaced every 3 or 4 feet. If he didn't live so far away, I'd take a picture. It works quite well. If the slope was in the back instead of the front I would have no problem. One of my goals (from having built a shed before) was to get it as low to the ground as possible to make getting the mower and other things in and out easier. With the low-side facing the house and the door on the front, a 2x8 would put the door sill about 10" off the ground- way too high (and no, I don't want a ramp). So if I have to shore up the low side, say 8", that makes the door sill 18" off the ground at least. So now I'm back to considering a concrete foundation. The cost of materials isn't bad, but having a pro do the work was too much. I might do the floor in sections by determining how much I can mix at one time, then forming up a section for that amount. Pour that section and start again on the other side. Wait for them to firm up enough to remove the forms, then repeat until they meet in the middle. We don't freeze here so I don't need to worry about that, which is REALLY nice. |
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Posted: 6/20/2017 6:47:01 PM EDT
[#16]
OP...if you go with a wood/pier block design below is a sketch of one I put together with my BIL last weekend.
It's a Box over Box design. We added truss hangers and corner brackets. Really fast to make and strudy. Note: I sketched this 8' x 12' but the dimensions I put on are for a 8' x 10' shed...that's why it looks "long".  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/26/2017 10:47:05 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As someone who built their shed (10x16) I can strongly recommend not using 2x6 for the floor. There are calculators out there where you can put in your span and board spacing and it'll recommend the correct size. As the other person said, 2x8 minimum. As for your slope, a friend of mine has a very large shed on a similar type of slope. The bottom of the shed has 3 runners that go the length of the shed and it's up on cinder blocks (doubled up) spaced every 3 or 4 feet. If he didn't live so far away, I'd take a picture. It works quite well. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OK, how about another question. If I use 2X6s to build the floor, will it be strong enough to be supported only at the four corners (with sonotubes or blocks)? As for your slope, a friend of mine has a very large shed on a similar type of slope. The bottom of the shed has 3 runners that go the length of the shed and it's up on cinder blocks (doubled up) spaced every 3 or 4 feet. If he didn't live so far away, I'd take a picture. It works quite well. |
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Posted: 6/26/2017 11:09:48 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What sort of shed foundation did you use that did not work well with the 2x6s? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
OK, how about another question. If I use 2X6s to build the floor, will it be strong enough to be supported only at the four corners (with sonotubes or blocks)? As for your slope, a friend of mine has a very large shed on a similar type of slope. The bottom of the shed has 3 runners that go the length of the shed and it's up on cinder blocks (doubled up) spaced every 3 or 4 feet. If he didn't live so far away, I'd take a picture. It works quite well. |
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Posted: 6/27/2017 4:31:20 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
- I could bring the high corner down a little and the low corner up, sort of a compromise. you will need to thoroughly vibrate/compact the area that you build up, or your shed will be off level in a month or two. Quoted:
- I could bring the high corner down level with the low corner and build another retaining rock-wall (the yard is nothing but rock walls) to support the back left corner soil from eroding. this. the shed will be level, and the rock retaining wall will mitigate further erosion. a simple french drain behind the rock wall will prevent a lot of water/moisture/rot/insect problems in your new shed. below, i'm going to post some pictures of a project i did, i am 100% aware that this isn't your stated price range but the basic idea ("shed on a slight grade with a retaining wall") is the same... ar-jedi 
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Posted: 6/27/2017 4:46:54 PM EDT
[#20]
Damn, I love your shed. Every time it comes up in a thread, I want to build it. I don't trust my block work yet.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you will need to thoroughly vibrate/compact the area that you build up, or your shed will be off level in a month or two. this. the shed will be level, and the rock retaining wall will mitigate further erosion. a simple french drain behind the rock wall will prevent a lot of water/moisture/rot/insect problems in your new shed. below, i'm going to post some pictures of a project i did, i am 100% aware that this isn't your stated price range but the basic idea ("shed on a slight grade with a retaining wall") is the same... ar-jedi |
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Posted: 6/27/2017 4:56:37 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Damn, I love your shed. Every time it comes up in a thread, I want to build it. I don't trust my block work yet.
eta one thing i want to add: the apron is a really nice feature. i didn't know how nice it would be 6 years ago when i designed it in, but it is REALLY useful. the ability to work on a project out on the apron instead of standing in mud (or similar) fundamentally increases the available space. when you want to paint/stain something, grease something, construct something etc, it's a built-in semi-flat semi-clean work area. 
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Posted: 6/27/2017 5:22:40 PM EDT
[#22]
I agree with the apron. I had a slab poured beside my 14x24 shop so I could work on things out of the dirt.
OP, if you are going to pour your own slab, just make it larger than your footprint out the front and maybe even the side. |
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Posted: 6/27/2017 5:47:24 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What sort of shed foundation did you use that did not work well with the 2x6s?  The floor is fine now, but there are a lot of things I'd do different. I knew from doing the calculations for my shed that I should have used 2x8 lumber, but I thought I'd cheat reality and save a few $$. 
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Posted: 6/27/2017 10:18:28 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I agree with the apron. I had a slab poured beside my 14x24 shop so I could work on things out of the dirt. OP, if you are going to pour your own slab, just make it larger than your footprint out the front and maybe even the side. the incremental cost for the added flatwork is usually pretty minimal, as typically you are overpaying for a "short load" of ready-mix anyway. the forms and so on to make an added section are not going to add appreciably to the total. that said, you don't need nor want a parking lot of concrete in your backyard. keep it reasonably sized. btw i didn't think the $750 quote for your flatwork was all that bad, but there are always a couple of factors with any concrete job that we are not seeing. for example: can they park the ready-mix truck right next to the pour? yes = lower cost job. no = wheelbarrows (manual or powered) and labor and time and effort = more expensive job. this is no different than an electrician or a plumber: they quote "standup jobs" a lot differently than "crawlspace jobs". could be the exact same task, but the latter is a PITA. ar-jedi |
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Posted: 6/27/2017 10:55:26 PM EDT
[#25]
Since this got drug back to the top I'll post an update.
I've decided to pour the foundation myself; I really want this at ground level. So the first picture is the hole roughed in, the second is mostly leveled. I need to address that right near corner because it's too built up with sandy soil. Underneath that however is a honking big rock sitting on virgin solid soil, so I need to find another one the right size on top of it to help support that corner. EDIT to add: As you can tell looking at the left far corner, the shed will have a concrete wall about 20" high, stepping down as needed, along the left and rear. I'll probably order some crushed rock tomorrow. By the way, is it possible to mix enough concrete for an 8'X10' pad using a rental mixer, fast enough? I'm a little worried that it'll be setting up while I'm still cutting open sacks of mix.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 1:46:07 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since this got drug back to the top I'll post an update. I've decided to pour the foundation myself; I really want this at ground level. So the first picture is the hole roughed in, the second is mostly leveled. I need to address that right near corner because it's too built up with sandy soil. Underneath that however is a honking big rock sitting on virgin solid soil, so I need to find another one the right size on top of it to help support that corner. EDIT to add: As you can tell looking at the left far corner, the shed will have a concrete wall about 20" high, stepping down as needed, along the left and rear. I'll probably order some crushed rock tomorrow. By the way, is it possible to mix enough concrete for an 8'X10' pad using a rental mixer, fast enough? I'm a little worried that it'll be setting up while I'm still cutting open sacks of mix. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Prep-240280.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Prep2-240281.JPG Highly recommend delivery. Shouldn't be but $4-500 and they will pour for you. |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 9:59:53 AM EDT
[#27]
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You are looking at mixing about 3600-4000lbs of concrete a few bags at a time. Don't under estimate the amount of time it will take, not to mention the physical labor of moving and hauling the concrete, then staging it if you want to access it quickly. Highly recommend delivery. Shouldn't be but $4-500 and they will pour for you. 
EDIT to attempt to draw my backyard profile.....wish me luck....  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 12:06:31 PM EDT
[#28]
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I figured 3000# using 2X4s for forms (3½" thick) but yeah, delivery would be really nice. There's no way to get a truck back there though. I could knock some fence boards out on the side but that would put the truck about 6' lower than the hole. I don't know how high the truck's dumping hole is off the ground. There's always a problem!
EDIT to attempt to draw my backyard profile.....wish me luck.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Levels-240428.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You are looking at mixing about 3600-4000lbs of concrete a few bags at a time. Don't under estimate the amount of time it will take, not to mention the physical labor of moving and hauling the concrete, then staging it if you want to access it quickly. Highly recommend delivery. Shouldn't be but $4-500 and they will pour for you.
EDIT to attempt to draw my backyard profile.....wish me luck.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Levels-240428.JPG |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 3:39:59 PM EDT
[#29]
Just had a patio pumped...guy showed up in a pickup with pump. Ran about 150' of hose back and away they went.
Paid him $325 for pumping...18' x 20' patio. |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 3:54:47 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You are looking at mixing about 3600-4000lbs of concrete a few bags at a time. Don't under estimate the amount of time it will take, not to mention the physical labor of moving and hauling the concrete, then staging it if you want to access it quickly. Highly recommend delivery. Shouldn't be but $4-500 and they will pour for you. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Since this got drug back to the top I'll post an update. I've decided to pour the foundation myself; I really want this at ground level. So the first picture is the hole roughed in, the second is mostly leveled. I need to address that right near corner because it's too built up with sandy soil. Underneath that however is a honking big rock sitting on virgin solid soil, so I need to find another one the right size on top of it to help support that corner. EDIT to add: As you can tell looking at the left far corner, the shed will have a concrete wall about 20" high, stepping down as needed, along the left and rear. I'll probably order some crushed rock tomorrow. By the way, is it possible to mix enough concrete for an 8'X10' pad using a rental mixer, fast enough? I'm a little worried that it'll be setting up while I'm still cutting open sacks of mix. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Prep-240280.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Prep2-240281.JPG Highly recommend delivery. Shouldn't be but $4-500 and they will pour for you. |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 7:32:14 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Damn, I love your shed. Every time it comes up in a thread, I want to build it. I don't trust my block work yet. |
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Posted: 6/29/2017 6:39:04 AM EDT
[#32]
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I actually don't have a foundation. The shed sits on a pair of 6"x12" steel box beams (lengthwise), so the span is about 8'. There's a bit of a give in the middle of the floor which forced me to put a 3rd, smaller beam, down the center since soft floors irritate me The floor is fine now, but there are a lot of things I'd do different. I knew from doing the calculations for my shed that I should have used 2x8 lumber, but I thought I'd cheat reality and save a few $. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What sort of shed foundation did you use that did not work well with the 2x6s? The floor is fine now, but there are a lot of things I'd do different. I knew from doing the calculations for my shed that I should have used 2x8 lumber, but I thought I'd cheat reality and save a few $. |
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Posted: 6/29/2017 10:43:01 PM EDT
[#33]
Went over and got 3/4 yard of clean gravel; $28. A lot cheaper when you go get it yourself, as they wanted over $300 delivered. This milsurp trailer has almost paid for itself.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 6/29/2017 11:30:24 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Went over and got 3/4 yard of clean gravel; $28. A lot cheaper when you go get it yourself, as they wanted over $300 delivered. This milsurp trailer has almost paid for itself. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Gravel-241730.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Gravel2-241731.JPG Gravel is all about the haul bill. 
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Posted: 6/30/2017 5:16:53 PM EDT
[#35]
Got outside early before the heat to get the trailer unloaded. The latch design on the M1101 makes it difficult to drop the tailgate when there's a load pushing against it.
Then I discovered a major error on my part- with the tailgate down a 2" gap opens between the tailgate and the trailer body, which means every time I rake gravel into the cart it's spilling through the gap onto the ground. I thought ahead enough to have a tarp under the gravel but it didn't occur to me to have it up the inside of the tailgate. I pulled the saw out to cut a 2X4 to fill the gap when I realized I could just take the tailgate off. Love the versatility of these trailers! About the time I took the first picture I realized it might be a good idea to put the landing gear down in the back, just in case. I also discovered another MAJOR advantage to going to get the gravel myself; I can rake it right off the trailer and let gravity fill the cart. If I had gotten it delivered I would have had to shovel it up into the cart.  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 7/1/2017 8:15:26 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got outside early before the heat to get the trailer unloaded. The latch design on the M1101 makes it difficult to drop the tailgate when there's a load pushing against it. Then I discovered a major error on my part- with the tailgate down a 2" gap opens between the tailgate and the trailer body, which means every time I rake gravel into the cart it's spilling through the gap onto the ground. I thought ahead enough to have a tarp under the gravel but it didn't occur to me to have it up the inside of the tailgate. I pulled the saw out to cut a 2X4 to fill the gap when I realized I could just take the tailgate off. Love the versatility of these trailers! About the time I took the first picture I realized it might be a good idea to put the landing gear down in the back, just in case. I also discovered another MAJOR advantage to going to get the gravel myself; I can rake it right off the trailer and let gravity fill the cart. If I had gotten it delivered I would have had to shovel it up into the cart. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Gravel4-242389.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Gravel3-242391.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Prep3-242392.JPG 
That's a lot of work. It's going to be an awesome shed! |
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Posted: 7/2/2017 11:28:27 PM EDT
[#37]
Between the two shed threads running right now some of you guys have built some seriously impressive sheds!
I slightly miscalculated the amount of gravel I'd need- I used the shed dimensions of 8X10' but didn't factor in that the stone needed to extend beyond the footprint. Plus I dug a small trench around the three sides to fill with gravel to keep any water flowing away from the building. So it was back to pick up another 1/4 yard of clean stone ($10). This is where I am now. The whole thing is level and tamped. I filled in some valleys and raked a few highs down and it's ready for the forms. I have all the 2X4s I'll be using sitting on the garage floor under sacks of stone and clamped together to make sure they're as straight as possible. If I decide to call a truck, and I'd like to, the closest the truck can get to the pour site is 30' away, and 8' below the level of the shed floor. Will that require pumping? If so, and if it's expensive, I may have to pour it by hand and do it in sections.  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/2/2017 11:46:19 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Between the two shed threads running right now some of you guys have built some seriously impressive sheds! I slightly miscalculated the amount of gravel I'd need- I used the shed dimensions of 8X10' but didn't factor in that the stone needed to extend beyond the footprint. Plus I dug a small trench around the three sides to fill with gravel to keep any water flowing away from the building. So it was back to pick up another 1/4 yard of clean stone ($10). This is where I am now. The whole thing is level and tamped. I filled in some valleys and raked a few highs down and it's ready for the forms. I have all the 2X4s I'll be using sitting on the garage floor under sacks of stone and clamped together to make sure they're as straight as possible. If I decide to call a truck, and I'd like to, the closest the truck can get to the pour site is 30' away, and 8' below the level of the shed floor. Will that require pumping? If so, and if it's expensive, I may have to pour it by hand and do it in sections. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/171243/Prep4-244652.JPG Show them your setup and how they can get in (make sure they're not rolling over your septic, if you have that) and how far they will be from the pour. Ask how long their chutes are. I've had people tell me they had only about 15' of chute, and I've seen a lot more than that on a pour before. It may depend on the specific company and what they have available on their trucks. I don't know the capabilities. I do know you will need some help that day, especially if you have not done a pour before. Even if they can get to the edge of your pour, you will need to move some wet concrete to the edges, and you will need to do it quickly. Having a second hand there with a rake to help move the mix will be of great benefit to you. There is always teh option of using wheelbarrows to carry the wet mix to the slab area and dump it. A couple of people running wheelbarrows, while one spreads the mix, will make it work. Recruit your friends. Promise beer. LOTS of beer. Just sayin.
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Posted: 7/3/2017 3:00:11 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If I decide to call a truck, and I'd like to, the closest the truck can get to the pour site is 30' away, and 8' below the level of the shed floor. Will that require pumping? If so, and if it's expensive, I may have to pour it by hand and do it in sections. 
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Posted: 7/3/2017 1:55:21 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote History^^^ You don't need the added cost of a pump truck. A buggy works well, just don't let the driver fill it to near the top. If it is filled near the top you'll dump/splash some concrete on the ground and have to spend time cleaning the mess.
I would avoid hand mixing if possible. It's a lot of bags and you'll likely have cold joints. You didn't mention the use of anchor bolts for the framing at the perimeter... It's a good idea to thicken the slab there to hold the anchor bolts. You can cure the concrete by covering it with a tarp for three days after the surface of the slab is firm. Sweating makes a good slab. |
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