DIY Kayak Trailer

Posted: 5/31/2017 2:13:23 PM EDT

I'm debating buying this Harbor Frieght trailer kit and replacing the included tow bar with a longer tow bar made from 2" square tubing. Then building racks to mount kayaks on.

Any reason this wouldn't be advisable? Any ideas, suggestions for other options?

Posted: 5/31/2017 2:29:32 PM EDT

[#1]

My friend bought one. We put a solid floor so it was no longer foldable. He hauled his lawn mower once and parked it. It was very wiggly over 45mph. I would guess putting two sails on it in the form of kayaks would make it worse.

Posted: 5/31/2017 2:56:22 PM EDT

[#2]

I've got one of those 5x9 trailers with the mesh bottom and tailgate ramp that I want to convert to a kayak trailer. Just need to figure out how I want to do it.

Posted: 5/31/2017 3:12:38 PM EDT

[#3]

Quote History

Quoted:
I've got one of those 5x9 trailers with the mesh bottom and tailgate ramp that I want to convert to a kayak trailer. Just need to figure out how I want to do it.

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Something like this might work for you. Then you could also still use the trailer as it was intended. I'd use wood instead of PVC to save some money.

Posted: 5/31/2017 3:26:29 PM EDT

[#4]

Quote History

Quoted:
My friend bought one. We put a solid floor so it was no longer foldable. He hauled his lawn mower once and parked it. It was very wiggly over 45mph. I would guess putting two sails on it in the form of kayaks would make it worse.

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The one I linked isn't the foldable one and has pretty good reviews. Kayaks don't weigh much and don't create as much drag as you might think. It would basically be the smallest load imaginable for a trailer. The leaf springs might actually be too stiff so I might have to remove one to keep it from bouncing.

Posted: 6/1/2017 10:27:55 PM EDT

[#5]

what kind of kayaks are we talking about? I'm guessing rec/flatwater boats since you're wanting to have them on a trailer vs on a roof.

Posted: 6/1/2017 10:37:37 PM EDT

[#6]

I'm thinking the PVC Pipes rack with a bit of foam padding would be a good solution to mounting them in the trailer.

Why would you need to extend the tongue? If you mid mount the kayaks, you should not need to be worried about hitting your tow vehicle

If you are concerned about kayaks hanging over back or front, I'd spend a few bucks more and get the 8' long trailer.

I owned one of those a few years back and it was very easy to tow - tracked straight even with a heavy load and crosswinds. (I build up tall wooden sideboards, front & rear too.)

Posted: 6/1/2017 11:07:02 PM EDT

[#7]

I used a 4x6 mesh floor utility trailer before, the lack of weight on the trailer makes it bounce a lot.

Posted: 6/2/2017 5:56:10 AM EDT

[#8]

A friend of mine builds hitch mounted racks that hold 2 kayaks vertically. Works great on his jeep.

Posted: 6/2/2017 7:21:34 AM EDT

[#9]

I've heard of a few using the harbor freight trailers with no issues. Not sure if it's this same model though.

I hope it works. I'm planning on buying a kayak for fishing in the near future.

Posted: 6/2/2017 12:13:36 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
what kind of kayaks are we talking about? I'm guessing rec/flatwater boats since you're wanting to have them on a trailer vs on a roof.

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Quote History

Quoted:
what kind of kayaks are we talking about? I'm guessing rec/flatwater boats since you're wanting to have them on a trailer vs on a roof.

I need the option to haul a SOT fishing kayak, a recreational touring kayak, a small SOT for the kids and a canoe and potentially a couple Sunfish type sailboats. Not all once of course but I need a flexible means of transport, hence the need for the trailer. Typically I'm either going solo and I don't need a trailer or all four of us are going and I need options.

Quoted:
I'm thinking the PVC Pipes rack with a bit of foam padding would be a good solution to mounting them in the trailer.

Why would you need to extend the tongue? If you mid mount the kayaks, you should not need to be worried about hitting your tow vehicle

If you are concerned about kayaks hanging over back or front, I'd spend a few bucks more and get the 8' long trailer.

I owned one of those a few years back and it was very easy to tow - tracked straight even with a heavy load and crosswinds. (I build up tall wooden sideboards, front & rear too.)

I may not need to extend the tongue but just looking at it a 16' canoe or yak looks like it would be very close to the end of the tongue when you center the "boat" over the axle. If it worked as is then so be it. But either way I have the option if it's needed.

Posted: 6/2/2017 12:15:47 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:
I used a 4x6 mesh floor utility trailer before, the lack of weight on the trailer makes it bounce a lot.

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I thought about going that route just for the sake of versatility but decided against it for that reason alone. I've heard of people leaving out a leaf spring to soften the ride but I'm not sure if it would work and/or be safe to do on a heavier trailer.

Posted: 6/2/2017 9:09:15 PM EDT

[#12]

I did this last year. Built a solid wood deck on the next size larger trailer. It's perfect. I have truck racks mounted to the deck for the kayaks and can remove them for other use. I tow with a Jeep and have 14' boats.

Posted: 6/3/2017 3:09:53 AM EDT

[#13]

Wow you're really trying to carry a wide variety of things. I'll have to mull it over some but you could easily get away with that trailer so long as you extend the tongue a few feet and take the time to make sure it's dead level with your tow vehicle. If it's got any nose up attitude it's going to want to bottom out or drag your gear.

Simplest way I can think of doing this is to have bolt-on/bolt-of racks built out of dimensional lumber that will bolt through the deck (preferably the frame). You'll want to make sure your joints are SOLID and "interlocking" so to speak so you're not just relying on adhesives and fastners to do the job.

Posted: 6/6/2017 2:36:07 PM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:
Wow you're really trying to carry a wide variety of things. I'll have to mull it over some but you could easily get away with that trailer so long as you extend the tongue a few feet and take the time to make sure it's dead level with your tow vehicle. If it's got any nose up attitude it's going to want to bottom out or drag your gear.

Simplest way I can think of doing this is to have bolt-on/bolt-of racks built out of dimensional lumber that will bolt through the deck (preferably the frame). You'll want to make sure your joints are SOLID and "interlocking" so to speak so you're not just relying on adhesives and fastners to do the job.

View Quote

I'm thinking something like this held on with U-bolts that I can take on and off. I would leave out the center horizontal bars to give more room for larger items like Sunfish hulls.

Posted: 6/6/2017 2:49:56 PM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:
I've got one of those 5x9 trailers with the mesh bottom and tailgate ramp that I want to convert to a kayak trailer. Just need to figure out how I want to do it.

View Quote

We have a 5x8 trailer of the same type and I haul our kayaks on it.

I put two 2x4s across on the top rails width-wise and bolted them down with eye-bolts and nylon lock nuts/washers. In the center of each piece of wood, I put another eye bolt on. The kayaks lay across the boards (parallel to direction of travel) and I strap them down through the eye bolts (through the scupper holes). Works really well, but I want/need to get PVC to lay length-wise to put the kayaks on. Two PVC pipes per kayak is my plan.

We bought a 3rd kayak the other night for our kids to use. Right now it just gets strapped down on top of the other two kayaks. Not ideal, but it works for now.

ETA: Kayaks are a 13' and two 10' models. Prior to getting the 3rd kayak I would put one bag of tube sand on the trailer for added weight.

Posted: 6/6/2017 8:52:10 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:

I'm thinking something like this held on with U-bolts that I can take on and off. I would leave out the center horizontal bars to give more room for larger items like Sunfish hulls.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/d7/6a/0d/d76a0de8c542da07bae08b25681b05b2.jpg

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FWIW I used to be a guide doing everything from whitewater trips to river adventures. We used trailers like that. They work quite well for kayaks and canoes. Just make sure you really tighten down your cam straps.

I built onw trailer and it needed the horizontals running from front to rear. There was to much flex/racking otherwise.

Posted: 6/6/2017 10:57:56 PM EDT

[#17]

Sorry, I meant the center horizontal rack, not the brace. I think it will absolutely need the brace, even if it's just one piece at the top from front to back instead of an X type brace.

Posted: 6/7/2017 6:49:57 AM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
Sorry, I meant the center horizontal rack, not the brace. I think it will absolutely need the brace, even if it's just one piece at the top from front to back instead of an X type brace.

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Nope, you need a diagonal brace. Doesn't need to be a full X. Could be like the picture above where the diagonals meet at the midpoint on the floor. A single horizontal piece across the top will still leave you with lots of racking.

Posted: 6/7/2017 11:07:31 AM EDT

[#19]

I've seen the HF trailers before,some with a box built on them to hold stuff and kayaks on top of that. The reviews are mixed overall on that trailer overall so I'm staying away since I haul a ways sometimes.

I'm looking for a used utility trailer or an older boat trailer to modify now. There's tons, some with non running boats on them, out there on CL and Facebook. I think the quality would be better and better road manners. We haul 6 hours sometimes to the cabin in SD.

Posted: 6/7/2017 12:50:36 PM EDT

[#20]

If I were to attempt a project like the one OP proposes, I think I'd probably start with the HF trailer and a bunch of unistrut. It's inexpensive, strong, and there are shitloads of different brackets and braces that'll make assembly (and disassembly) easy.

Posted: 6/7/2017 1:05:14 PM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
If I were to attempt a project like the one OP proposes, I think I'd probably start with the HF trailer and a bunch of unistrut. It's inexpensive, strong, and there are shitloads of different brackets and braces that'll make assembly (and disassembly) easy.

View Quote

That seems to be popular option but since pops has a welder and likes to demonstrate his abilities I'll probably use square tubing instead. Unistrut would certainly work but some of those brackets are pricey.

Posted: 6/8/2017 5:47:13 PM EDT

[#22]

I built this on the harbor freight 4x8

Posted: 6/11/2017 9:58:38 PM EDT

[#23]

We got an old single jet ski trailer and ran Unistruthe across the wood bunks. Zip tie foam boat wedges and done. No muss, no fuss, already galvanized and sealed bearings. It glides along our Corolla and we don't even notice it being there.

Posted: 6/11/2017 10:18:01 PM EDT

[#24]

I use the HF folding trailer. I put a two-piece floor (3/4" plywood) so it still folds and fits in the garage. I have padded 2x4 racks that I bolt into the stake holes. I have a 14' Native Slayer and don't have any problems. A lot easier than heaving the 70# beast over my head to mount on the roof rack of my truck.

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