So my wife and I have finally decided on redoing the kitchen. Started stripping and steaming the old wallpaper off last night.  That jobs sucks.  I'm a pretty serious cook and have always wanted a wolf 6 burner "range top".  Were still toying with the idea of just the range top or the whole oven/rangetop assembly.  I already have a wall mounted oven so I don't NEED the oven part, but it may make the installation easier and whats not to like about an extra oven in the kitchen (aside from cost...).  The rangetop only assembly is some 6-8 inches high and creates some mounting problems for me like separate counter tops on each side, and when I remove existing dishwasher/cabinets to make room for it I don't have matching flooring.

The real question though is one of ventilation.  A serious BTU output of a unit like that means I'll have to improve my ventilation.  I hate downdraft units so I'll be forced to install a new hood with exterior exhaust.  Existing cabinet locations means that I have to move them around and depending on exactly where I decide to locate the rangetop/oven I'll probably have to use a rooftop mounted unit.  I MAY be able to get a wall mounted/exhaust unit (depends upon exact location).  My question is how much ventilation do I really have to provide.  I've heard that too much can cause problems with pilot lights, and other HVAC concerns.  How do I calculate whats actually needed to get adequate ventilation that wont cause other problems?

I'm afraid I've opened a pandoras box of problems with this and like I said I've already started stripping wallpaper so at a minimum the kitchens going to get a new coat of paint!!

Vent-a-hood.

DCS  (dynamic cooking systems)

I use these.

As far as HVAC, check your building codes.  You may be required to have a make-up air device installed.  The Vent-a-hood and others move a lot of air.  600 cfm of air requires a 9" duct according to the manufacturer.  I used 8".  In the winter, I cannot use my vent if a fire is going in the fireplace.  It can also cause concerns with pulling CO out of your heater if you don't have make up air or leave a window cracked or door slightly open.  

I think there is a way to install a make up air duct behind your stove, but I was not doing that level of remodel at the time.

An external roof blower is much quieter than a hood with blowers inside.

There will still be some air noise on higher speed setting but far less noise from the fan itself.

Make sure you get a blower with variable speed.

You can then use it on lower speeds for removing smells and stuff but crank it up to do a steak on the stove top with all the resultant smoke from searing it.

Make up air may be required under the mechanical code in your location and for safety.

A larger blower WILL depressurize the house and back-draft anything that is not already forced draft (and could overcome some of them).

The whole thing is relatively wasteful no matter how you handle it.

Conditioned air is going out through the hood.

Outside air needs to come in and be heated or cooled (maybe less cooling in NY).

I open an outside door and lower the storm glass.

My kitchen has a door into the rest of the house so with that closed it pulls from the exterior.

I just try to avoid making a lot of smoke when it is either very hot or cold out.

I use the grill and charcoal most of the time.

Make sure any 'commercial style' unit you get has good low flame control.

I also prefer open burners.  I had a sealed burner Viking at one house and it was a PITA to clean.

It is much easier to take the pieces of an open burner unit top  to the sink and clean them instead of the clean in place of sealed burners.

Had Vikings at three previous houses (all dual fuel) and a Capital at present house.

Never went past 4 burners though (30 inch wide).  Never had enough space.

The big units we installed required 1200cfm & make-up air.

How about one of the pop ups?  I have the Bosch.  It does pull some heat from the stove. I usually have to turn it up a little and the back side of the pan gets hotter.

Simple CFM calculation

And then make sure you get a variable speed that is larger than the number.

It is easy to turn the speed down slightly.

Getting it higher will not happen without rework.

Thank you all for the replies.  I think were going with a 950 CFM rooftop unit with variable speed.

Good luck.

Do not cheap out on the duct size.

Baffle type filters work better at slightly higher speeds than the screen (expanded aluminum usually) type filters.

Be aware that stronger detergents can be very hard on the aluminum filters.

Another advantage of external blowers is that air leaks INTO the duct-work and not OUT.