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Posted: 4/23/2017 6:27:01 PM EDT
OK - another weird problem.
Make/Model: Payne Heating & Cooling, product PG8MAA048110ACJA, Model PG8MAA048110 from Jully 2005

Inducer motor is coming on for a few seconds, several times in a row, then pausing. It does this with the thermostat set for either Off or AC. The exhaust vent does not feel warm, and there is no fwump-woosh of the burners coming on.

I captured a blink code of 22 that, according to the labels, translates to "Abnormal Flame Proving Signal - Flame is provided while gas valve is de-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for: - Leaky gas valve - Stuck open gas valve"

Before we get too wrapped up in gas valve codes, here is a little background. We had a rusted out drip pan in the old AC unit. The water leaked down onto the control board and fried it. (fan would not start) The leak was not fixed and probably continued to drip on the new board. Then the AC coil was replaced and everything is now dry. My guess is some damage had already been done. 

Any thoughts on what to check next?
If I can figure out what wire/connector the Flame Proving Signal is on, and what voltages it should show, that seems like a logical place. 
Is a control board cheap enough to use as a diagnostic part install?
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 6:03:40 PM EDT
[#1]
Deleted...mod
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 6:06:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 6:11:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 6:25:43 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 6:51:29 PM EDT
[#5]
I have absolutely no idea how I managed to get this in the suppressor forum.... though it does explain the Dead Air or /something else/ recommendation that was in the first reply... 

Thanks for moving this to the right place Waylon.

Now, I guess I need to pull the cover and find a part number on the actual board. EDIT - ok, board numbers look to be CEBD431012-01A, SST-A, and CEPL131012-01. Hmm... looks like cheap one sided through-hole soldering. I'm tempted to pull it so I can see the back. Bad solder joints on a board mounted directly to a vibrating assembly. Sillier things have been known to cause problems. 

Since we're in the South and its Summer, I'm not worried about lack of heat for the near future. Any problem with temporarily disconnecting the inducer to make it shut up?
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 7:14:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You have a bad control board. No doubt about it.

<--- 20yr HVAC tech

Flame proving is accomplished by grounding out a milivolt signal through the burner flame. With no flame and the board saying you have one, it's a tell tale sign the board has fried.

ETA- How in the hell did you get this in the silencer forum?
View Quote
Would this be a board labeled "Blower Off-Delay"? It looks like the place all the wires go back to, and there were no other boards easily visible. 
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 7:24:04 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 7:47:20 PM EDT
[#8]
I think we're talking about the same thing. I just missed that Blower Off-Delay was a label for a jumper and not the assembly name.  $50 for used, and $100-$200 for new. I'm not sure I trust a used one...

What about disconnecting the inducer motor to stop the noise until the board gets replaced?

Link Posted: 4/23/2017 8:25:25 PM EDT
[#9]
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