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Posted: 4/11/2017 6:34:11 AM EDT
Guys,,,When we built our last home I had two large pieces of Cypress left over ( appx 6"x24"x72") that I elected to use as a "bar" that sits outside under the back porch. It is exposed to some sun and when it rains it will get wet. I need to stain it and then seal it so that it looks nice and is durable. I would prefer NOT to have to ever refinish it. Suggestions????
Link Posted: 4/11/2017 9:16:32 AM EDT
[#1]
Spar urethane? Maybe wax the endgrain first if that part gets wet.

Pretty much everything needs refinished eventually, assuming it isn't a naturally resistant material. Cypress is generally pretty good for exterior applications, lots of boat docks and such built from it if I recall correctly.

Ultimately it depends on the look and style you're going for, the urethane won't really let it "weather" and get the patina you may or may not like. I personally haven't worked cypress myself, so I can comment on how it takes up oil type preservatives and such. Maybe someone will come along with more info than me. If you want it to stay "new" looking though I'd just sand it up really nice, spar urethane a coat, steel wool/sand that coat smooth then a nice second coat and call it a day.
Link Posted: 4/13/2017 9:06:49 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Spar urethane? Maybe wax the endgrain first if that part gets wet.

Pretty much everything needs refinished eventually, assuming it isn't a naturally resistant material. Cypress is generally pretty good for exterior applications, lots of boat docks and such built from it if I recall correctly.

Ultimately it depends on the look and style you're going for, the urethane won't really let it "weather" and get the patina you may or may not like. I personally haven't worked cypress myself, so I can comment on how it takes up oil type preservatives and such. Maybe someone will come along with more info than me. If you want it to stay "new" looking though I'd just sand it up really nice, spar urethane a coat, steel wool/sand that coat smooth then a nice second coat and call it a day.
View Quote
Spar varnish is the softest and most flexible if the varnish style finishes.

The high oil contents create a soft film that can move with the substrate.

It still reacquires one or two year renewals.

Mother nature is a real bitch.

While harder finishes might appear better, the inevitable movement blows then off the subsurface.
Link Posted: 4/14/2017 5:47:17 AM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Spar varnish is the softest and most flexible if the varnish style finishes.

The high oil contents create a soft film that can move with the substrate.

It still reacquires one or two year renewals.

Mother nature is a real bitch.

While harder finishes might appear better, the inevitable movement blows then off the subsurface.
View Quote
Can vouch for that.  I use spar varnish on cypress beehives, and they could use a new coat in a year, mandatory in two.

Given cypress is naturally rot/insect resistant, I'm wondering if just some kind oil applied thick and heavy, allowed to absorb, then buffed out to a shine might be the best solution.
Link Posted: 4/14/2017 5:53:12 AM EDT
[#4]
Maybe try teak oil on a sample piece.  Every few months you would have to touch it up with a rag dipped in oil, but it will never peel or come loose from the surface.

How dry is the wood?
Link Posted: 4/14/2017 7:42:08 AM EDT
[#5]
I would not recommend boiled linseed oil.

I made a cross bolt latch for a shed door out of cypress and put a couple coats of BLO on it.

Was hoping it would just add some protection but it's been less than a year and looks like crap.

Going to have to do something different eventually.

Attachment Attached File


Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/14/2017 12:47:59 PM EDT
[#6]
Use clear epoxy like on a ship's handrails and counters.
Link Posted: 4/17/2017 9:45:13 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I would not recommend boiled linseed oil.

I made a cross bolt latch for a shed door out of cypress and put a couple coats of BLO on it.

Was hoping it would just add some protection but it's been less than a year and looks like crap.

Going to have to do something different eventually.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/35314/IMG-7026-186973.JPG

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/35314/IMG-7027-186974.JPG
View Quote
This what my cypress looks like
Link Posted: 4/17/2017 1:17:26 PM EDT
[#8]
https://www.promarinesupplies.com/crystal-clear-bar-table-top-epoxy-resin-coating-for-wood-tabletop-1-gallon-kit/
Link Posted: 4/17/2017 6:08:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Maybe try teak oil on a sample piece.  Every few months you would have to touch it up with a rag dipped in oil, but it will never peel or come loose from the surface.

How dry is the wood?
View Quote
This or Cedar Oil is what I would use.
Link Posted: 4/19/2017 4:36:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
https://www.promarinesupplies.com/crystal-clear-bar-table-top-epoxy-resin-coating-for-wood-tabletop-1-gallon-kit/
View Quote
Will eventually crack from wood movement.  And UV is hard on epoxy.  Removing it is a real PITA also.

Plain old Spar Varnish.

Flexes plenty.

Easily removed to re-coat.  And it WILL need periodic maintenance.

The more 'complicated' spar varnishes set up harder and crack faster.

Spar Varnish is a noticeably soft surface.
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