Ok arfcom I need ideas here...

We had a big freeze a few weeks back and it just so happened my spa pump died at the same time... You guessed it, broken pipes etc.

I'm in the process of installing a new filter housing and the outlet (threaded for 2" pipe) has a piece of 2' PVC pipe broke off inside of the threaded area. I guess I put too much force on it!! NO part of the PVC pipe extends outside of the threaded outlet.  I have nothing to hold onto - to twist the section back out. It won't budge. None of my various pliers allow me to get enough force outward to get traction and spin the PVC pipe section. (The section is about 1" long and all threads)

My options?

Dremel the PVC part out and risk damaging the threads on the filter housing.

Find some sort of reverse plier tool that may push enough against the PVC pipe to allow me to twist it out?

Give me some ideas please!!!

Propane torch maybe

Hacksaw blade it into 3 even pieces without touching threads then twist/chip a 1/3 piece out  the other two will fall out.
Could try two cuts instead of three.

PVC nipple extractor.
I know they have them at Home Depot, not sure if they have one that goes up to 2 inches though.
Search google for one.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/extractors.html

Check this out


The youtubeembed doesn't save the link on my phone

Check this out


The youtubeembed doesn't save the link on my phone

Try to wedge something like this log splitting wedge in there and use a wrench to turn it

If the filter housing is metal, use a plastic cutting tip on a soldering gun and cut the inside of the pipe right down to the threads

Eta; OR, measure the ID very carefully and go down to the big box store and measure the OD of *every* PVC piece, including fittings. I've had situations where the OD of a straight coupling for, say, a 1"pipe, also happened to match the ID of a 1¼ fitting, so I could use it as a bushing. It really depends on the manufacturer, but you might get lucky and be able to solvent cement something to the ID of the busted fitting.

Ditto.  Sometimes it's easier to add a fourth cut about 3/4" from one of the others and try to remove that first so the remainder will flex easier.

Something like a #1 screwdriver for the lever tool is best because it's not sharp.

Saw a vid where a guy took an old hole saw that just fit the ID of the pipe.  He gripped it with locking pliers and heated it with a propane torch for 90 sec.  He put the hot hole saw into the ID of the pipe.  The pliers kept the hole saw at the right depth.  After about a minute, the stub of the pipe was very soft.  Use the pliers to remove the hold saw, and use a screwdriver to create a tunnel between the stub and the fitting, and then use needle nose pliers like a can opener to twist the softened stub out.  You can also coat the inside of the stub with PVC glue and light it, but that seems a bit riskier.

I'm thinking I may try to glue a piece of pipe into the pvc part that's broke and use that for some twisting leverage...  just gotta keep it off the filter housing...which is some type of resin plastic.

My way takes ten minutes or less and no chance of breaking anything off.  Even if you fuck up some threads a little it's not a deal breaker.
Wrap some tape around the hacksaw blade for a handle.
Done it plenty of times.

Got it out... used a dremel, chisel and a flat blade screw driver.  Damaged the threads slightly, but they still function correctly!!!

Thought I messed up a $450 filter housing.

Got the entire filter housing plumbed into the system today... Tested all 2"PVC connections, new spa pump, heater working......*&%%&&%@@!!!!  I have a pin hole leak in the Hayward filter housing. Yeah a brand new $450 filter housing unit with a pin hole leak in the side wall. 

Agreed. This is what I was going to post as well...

There are a number of ways of repairing even plastic threads that get buggered up.

For less severe damage even the old school powders used for metal threads will work.

LOL- I bet you said a few bad words.

Glad you have everything else working.