I need a decent 110v machine. Are these hobarts the best value? I've never used a wire feed before, only stick, so I want something fairly cheap to get started on.
I'm well aware of the limitations using this voltage and I'm not interested in stepping up to a 220v. It will just be for small projects and I have friends with big machines if I need them, lol.

Can't go wrong with a Hobart. I have a Handler 190 and it's great. It is the best hobbiest/homeowner machine there is.

I've had the 190 for almost 10 years, has run flawlessly. Hobart is the same machine as Miller just cheaper and without the blue paint.

I got one because I needed a 110v machine. I like it well enough and it fits my needs as a portable MIG. 

Ok, I'm sold!

Is this the best deal?

I've had a 140 for several years. Welds 1/4 fairly easily and thicker with preheat and multi pass.
Good unit.

A lot of the smaller Millers are dual voltage.  I wouldn't get anything less than a 180.

Are they sub-$500 though?

I'm aware of the limitations of a 110 machine. I have bigger stuff available if I need to borrow it.

I've used a Handler 125 on straight CO2 for several years and never had any problems or regrets. It's a tough SOB,  too. It went totally under water for several hours in a flood last May and after drying out for a few months over the summer it still works.

Love my 140, got it at tsc.

Try an inverter based machine if you can.

I have a Hobart Handler 140 and it does good for light stuff around the garage. I suggest using solid wire and gas for better welds versus using flux core wire.

I'm gonna try running straight co2. I just bought an "instant air" CO2 rig for my Land Cruiser, so I have bottles.

I have had one for 4 or 5 years now. Havent used it a ton but it works great when i do. If you plan on using flux wire, you will need to buy the tip cover that is solid and tapered, for a few bucks.  The welder only comes with the gas tip.

Last year i bought an argon/co2 tank for it, it works good also with the supplied equipment.

Have you done reading on a Co2 only weld?  Runs hotter so you can burn through much easier. And a dirty weld. Requires a lot of clean up.  If you are getting a 140 for small jobs, I would be concerned about burn through.  
I bought the same welder with the blue paint.  Damned fine machine.  If I knew what I know now when I bought my machine, it would have been the Hobart.

I have a Hobart 175 but it just crapped out Saturday. But it's also about 20 years old so there is that. The 180 would be the modern equivalent to what I have.

I'm looking at going bigger, 211 Miller or 252i esab.

Had mine for many years. Done frame work, body work, engine mounts etc. Used the hell out of it building cars. Wont let you down.  I bought mine through Northern Tool. It was on sale and free shipping. I forget what it cost.

On it's own 30 amp breaker with gas to get the most out of the machine it works well. Steel prep is key

That's where I bought mine

If you find a used one on Craigs or Backpage, you have to be diligent and fast.  I practically stole my plasma cutter and the guy's phone was blowing up when I handed him cash.

I had a Hobart, purchased new, a large 170 (IIRC) on wheels.  It had to go back for warranty repair on day one.  They loaned me a larger 225 Hobart, free gas and wire.  I completed my project with it and had a virtually new 180 when it was returned 3 months later.  It never fed .024 wire worth a shit and I was happy to trade it for a pressure washer.  I then bought a Miller mini 180 and still use it to this day. I bought it just before they went over to dual voltages.   I had used larger Millers at jobs and knew the feeding mechanism was all metal and much more reliable.

Shop around on line.  If you can catch a special, you can find a great deal on a Miller box.  I would also look at Lincoln and Esab before ever going back to a Hobart.  

I need a new .024 liner again, and I am currently running .030 wire in a large liner.  If I get another resto that needs a lot of sheet metal work, I will go back to .024 wire. The over wrap clamp on wire cleaner/lube is a good thing to install.

I do a lot of frame/suspension work.  A 140 is not big enough.  There is a reason that place mentioned is selling refurbs.  Duty cycle is a motherfucker, and if you don't want to wait on your welder to cool to get the job done, you are going to burn up the transformer or the diode packs.  Even a 180 is a bit light, but it does everything on a single pass up to 1/4" and does it at a reasonable rate. I have never had the overload light come on using my box.

The straight CO2 was recommended on several weld forums I was looking at. I haven't played with it yet though.

I haven't had any problems with CO2. I don't see the dirty weld (I used flux core for a good while and THAT was a dirty weld) and I haven't had any problems with burn through, I just turn it down.

HH 140 is a great machine, IF you understand the limitations and keep material to 3/16" or less.

I've had one for years, coupled with a tank of C25 it is hard to beat.  
I have a Hobart 200A engine drive for the larger stuff, but rarely use it. The 140 meets 90% of my needs.

I bought mine reconditioned from Hobart as well. Could not tell it from new.

Cool, after I figure out what I owe the IRS, I'll buy one!

I have a Miller 211 and love it.  It gives you the flexibility of 110/220.
I think someone has a good sale on them. I'll see if I can dig up the info.

Hobart 140 is a good machine!  Sometimes you can buy refurbs from Hobart at discounted rates.

I almost bought a a Hobart, but got the Eastwood on Black Friday sale.  Hobart is better though!

They are great machines, but even with Miller's current rebate, it's more than double the price. I really don't need that much machine at the moment.

 

I got the Eastwood about 5 years ago for $199, with regulator, and $14.99 S&H. Still see it at that price from time to time.
Fine for what I use it for.

LOL, my stick welder is an OLD Sears Colormatic I scrounged for free.
Can you tell I'm cheap?