The sillcock in my front yard is original to the house (1964) and does not have any anti-siphon or vacuum breaker, and it's not a freeze-proof model either. Last winter when I shut off the supply valve in the basement, it started leaking around the packing nut, so I repacked it and stopped the leak for the winter. Now this spring, I went to turn the supply valve back on, and it's leaking from the packing nut again. I've decided that I'm going to upgrade it to a ball valve with drain and a freeze-proof sillcock.

My current plan is to shut off the main water supply to the house and cut the pipe on the input side of the existing supply valve. I'll solder on a 1/2" copper to 1/2" PEX adapter and make the short run with 1/2" PEX with copper crimp rings. In the PEX run, I'll put in a 1/2" full-port ball with with drain. I'm going to then install a Woodford Model 17 freeze-proof sillcock, use low expansion foam to seal the hole, and screw it into the brick for a secure mounting. Is there anything I'm missing in this plan?

Does anyone know what wall thickness I should use for buying the Model 17 sillcock? The existing sill cock goes through the brick exterior and enters my basement through the rim joist. My best guess is a 5" wall thickness made up of 3.5" of brick, and 1.5" of rim joist. I'm planning to go with the 8" wall thickness Model 17 unless anyone has better suggestions.

Depends on how insulated you are. 8 will be fine I'm sure but if you have the room get a longer one to be safe.

Why run pex? Run copper.  Pex is hack if you can run copper.
You don't need to drain it either. Just shut the BV, open the faucet outside and leave it open.  But a full port with drain should be fine. You'll notice you won't touch the BV once you trust the silcok.

I have a silcok that goes into my basement, with no BV. And it hasn't froze or burst. We got down to -30* in CT this past winter.
Adding a BV is extra safety and a smart move since your starting from scratch. Also, install it BEFORE your whole house filter. You don't need to filter that water. AND if it was me doing this, I'd also run another pipe for another silcok and make it so you have HOT and COLD outside. But that's just me

It sounds like a good plan.  If possible, I usually like to install one long enough to get past the foundation wall so it's easier to put a wrench on it in the future.

I know you're an intelligent man, but just a reminder to check the slope towards the exterior before applying the foam

I don't know why these are not standard.  That's all I have.


Guy at work just had a leak in his megabucks remodel because he didn't realize he needed to cut the water off and drain the pipe.

I could run copper, but Pex is easier and cheaper. I don't plan to stay in this house long enough for either Pex or copper to reach the end of their lifespan. Luckily, I get pretty good water from the Detroit water system and don't have/need a whole house filter. I'd also love the hot and cold options, but this silcock is on the opposite side of the house from my water heater.

I looked last night, and the Woodford Model 17 that is installed for the backyard does not extend past the foundation wall. It is sweated on to 1/2" copper. I should measure to double check, but my guess is that it's probably an 8" or 10" sillcock.

I don't know about new construction and whether or not they've become standard, but my house was built in 1964. Did they even have these invented back then?

Does anyone have a good place to order a Woodford Model 17 and a repair kit for my existing Woodford Model 17? I can't seem to find either one locally.

You will have a half inch or so between the bricks and rim joist.  I wouldn't play it so tight with an 8 inch sillcock.