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Posted: 4/28/2016 7:55:52 PM EDT
I have a 12 year old Kenmore HE5 front-loader dryer. Tonight it started fine but the drum will not turn and a burning rubber smell is evident. Yes, it was shut down to determine the issue, no fault codes/lights are evident but the drum will turn by hand with some resistance so it's unlikely the belt. Ideas?

Update: Ok, I finally got around to fixing my issue. As mentioned by fx below, it was the drum tension pulley that had seized, well not completely but was on it's way.  Since I was pretty confident one or more of the pulleys was the problem, I ordered the 'Maintenance kit" from Repair Clinic and expedited shipping. Last night I pulled the thing apart, (surprisingly easy to be honest,) removed the drum and quickly found the culprit. I decided to replace all the pulleys and belts while "I was in there" so once I got everything back together it worked fine. Now if it continues to work fine then I will mark it fixed.

Now, another problem. This time it's my French Door GE Profile Fridge (PFSS6PKX.) The ice-maker has been putting out less and less ice for a little while now and this weekend it just stopped. I figured it was due to me not replacing the filter, I was about 4 mos past due but pressure seemed fine. Last night (mostly due to my wife bitching,) I ran out and paid $50 for a GE filter so we could have ice. Replaced the filter, rand water through it as directed to get the air out of the lines and it's still not making much ice (a few cubes in a 12 hour period.) My model doesn't have a hard power button on the ice-maker and it seems that model is prone to going tits up (actually made by Samsung.) Any suggestions at trouble-shooting? I can find the ice-maker online for under $100 and assuming there's not a blockage this is the only thing I see that can be an issue.

Ideas?
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 10:12:37 PM EDT
[#1]

the friction required to turn the drum is exceeding the available torque from the belt/pulley (friction), so the belt is slipping/overheating.


something is causing the drum to seize up, or at least not turn easily.


Link Posted: 4/28/2016 10:19:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Bearings are fucked.
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 10:33:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Are you sure the belt hasnt broken? Pull the top and back covers off. UNPLUG IT FIRST!

You should be able to see more then..

Oh and don't report back, no one ever does!!
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 5:16:06 AM EDT
[#4]
Believe it or not, I just went through this with the same make/age of dryer.

My problem turned out to be the pulley on the motor that drives the belt was worn out.  Replacing it yourself isn't too bad if you're handy at all.  Disassemble the dryer as per the youtube videos, and look at the way the drum belt drive system works.  It's very straightforward, and only a few things that can cause the symptoms you have.

- drive belt is broken/stretched (I don't think this is it because of the burned rubber smell)
- idler pulley is worn/stuck so not enough tension on belt
- drive pulley on motor is stripped out or worn, letting motor spin on belt (I think it's this one, again because of the smell)

ETA:  While you've got the dryer all torn apart, do yourself a favor and inspect the roller wheels the drum rides on (look like skateboard wheels stuck here and there).  Order replacements for any that are wobbly or hard to turn.  These are another common failure point in a dryer of that vintage.


Link Posted: 4/29/2016 5:44:42 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Believe it or not, I just went through this with the same make/age of dryer.

My problem turned out to be the pulley on the motor that drives the belt was worn out.  Replacing it yourself isn't too bad if you're handy at all.  Disassemble the dryer as per the youtube videos, and look at the way the drum belt drive system works.  It's very straightforward, and only a few things that can cause the symptoms you have.

- drive belt is broken/stretched (I don't think this is it because of the burned rubber smell)
- idler pulley is worn/stuck so not enough tension on belt
- drive pulley on motor is stripped out or worn, letting motor spin on belt (I think it's this one, again because of the smell)

ETA:  While you've got the dryer all torn apart, do yourself a favor and inspect the roller wheels the drum rides on (look like skateboard wheels stuck here and there).  Order replacements for any that are wobbly or hard to turn.  These are another common failure point in a dryer of that vintage.


View Quote


Same here. Belt and pulley was cheap from Amazon.

Do not be tempted to lube anything in the dryer. Not even the drum wheels.





Link Posted: 4/29/2016 6:13:06 AM EDT
[#6]
Tensioner pulley siezed. Replace pulley assy, belt and while you are in there, the drum support rollers. At the very least pull and clean them and lube them with turbine oil. However, the real issue will likely be he tension pulley.

On SOME models, you can buy a rebuild kit that comes with the tensioner pulley assy, belt, rollers [wheels] and needed clips. The maintenance kit is far cheaper to buy then all the parts seperately if it's available.

Repairclinic.com is a good place to order, have the entire model number and serial number on hand. They can also be called which sometimes works better and the call gals are pretty good. Phone number is on the web site.
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 1:21:44 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Bearings are fucked.
View Quote


Doing some reading online and this seems to be correct. Trying to find the parts and procedure but it *may* be time to replace.

Edit....Unfortantly I'm traveling this weekend so I haven't had a chance to do much but an hour or so later my wife tries it again and the drum turns. Sounds like bearings or the bearing rod, when I get back I'll pull the cover and look.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 5/5/2016 4:06:46 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Tensioner pulley siezed. Replace pulley assy, belt and while you are in there, the drum support rollers. At the very least pull and clean them and lube them with turbine oil. However, the real issue will likely be he tension pulley.

On SOME models, you can buy a rebuild kit that comes with the tensioner pulley assy, belt, rollers [wheels] and needed clips. The maintenance kit is far cheaper to buy then all the parts seperately if it's available.

Repairclinic.com is a good place to order, have the entire model number and serial number on hand. They can also be called which sometimes works better and the call gals are pretty good. Phone number is on the web site.
View Quote


Dude you must be a wizard.....Update in the OP>>>
Link Posted: 5/5/2016 4:25:11 PM EDT
[#9]
On the ice maker...
Depending on how hard it is to pull, it might be worth removing it and letting it sit overnight to make sure ice hasn't built up somewhere that is gumming up the works.  I've had that happen a time or two with ours.
Link Posted: 5/5/2016 5:03:11 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
On the ice maker...
Depending on how hard it is to pull, it might be worth removing it and letting it sit overnight to make sure ice hasn't built up somewhere that is gumming up the works.  I've had that happen a time or two with ours.
View Quote


Yeah thought about doing that tonight actually. It doesn't look to hard to remove, more or less snaps in but I can't believe the lack of ice and filter are not related.
Link Posted: 5/5/2016 10:55:25 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Yeah thought about doing that tonight actually. It doesn't look to hard to remove, more or less snaps in but I can't believe the lack of ice and filter are not related.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
On the ice maker...
Depending on how hard it is to pull, it might be worth removing it and letting it sit overnight to make sure ice hasn't built up somewhere that is gumming up the works.  I've had that happen a time or two with ours.


Yeah thought about doing that tonight actually. It doesn't look to hard to remove, more or less snaps in but I can't believe the lack of ice and filter are not related.


Ok, slight update.....Pulled the ice maker this afternoon and the unit had 7 pieces of ice in the unit. I removed those and used a hair dryer to thaw anything in the unit then I let it sit on the counter for a few hours. Re-installed the maker and will judge where I'm at in the morning. It may be working given it had a full load of cubes (7 piece maker.)
Link Posted: 5/5/2016 11:00:17 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 5/6/2016 12:57:10 PM EDT
[#13]
My parent's GE Profile side-by-side had the ice maker mold crack at one point. It stopped making ice because all of the water was leaking out.
Link Posted: 5/6/2016 2:35:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
My parent's GE Profile side-by-side had the ice maker mold crack at one point. It stopped making ice because all of the water was leaking out.
View Quote



Damn, this morning I had a single cube of ice so shit. I've re-seated the water-filter and purged the lines of air....again. Tomorrow I'll pull the fridge out and check the lines in the back but I'm sure the problem is water starvation to the unit. The water supply to the ice maker is all the way in the rear with no way to verify I have a blockage but I can get my pinky finger 1-digit deep without feeling any ice.

I'm slumming it with a bag of ice I picked up so I can enjoy my beverages while I figure this out but shit I may have to break down and call out a tech.
Link Posted: 5/6/2016 2:36:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
View Quote



Thanks, I owe you a beer. What I was glad to see was that everything else looked good but I had the part so figured what the hell....
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