Having some dryer issues.  First the load wasn't drying last week and figured out the belt broke.  In my quest to finish the last load, it was still putting out heat so i figured i would run it with the wetter clothes for a bit even though the tumbler wasn't tumbling.  Bad idea.  Think all that heat without the tumbling action shorted out the thermal fuse.

So I get a new belt in, get it installed and turn it on.  Tumbler spins now but no heat.  Think back to my bad idea and guess I toasted the thermal fuse.  Thought I could rule out if it was a bad fuse or not by jumping the terminals.  That allowed the tumbler to still run but still no heat.  Thinking maybe it's not the thermal fuse.  Turn off the dryer and go to disconnect my jumped connection and arced one side against the dryer and that shut everything down.  

Forgot to unplug the dryer



Now it won't tumble or do anything.

Checked the outside breaker and it didn't trip.  Looked at the terminal block, things still look good there.  No melted or arced points.  Don't have a multimeter to test the outlet but since it was working and the breaker didn't trip, assume it's still good.

So what now?  What should I be looking at?

Or is it time to look for a new dryer?  This one had a good 15 year run.

Did a little reading and it looks like i may have shorted out the electronic power supply or control board.  If that's the case, not worth throwing money at a 15 year old dryer.  Was hoping there was a simple fuse or something but looking at the parts list, I don't think there is one.

Here's the wiring diagram

time to find one at the scratch n dent.

<edit>

You do know there  is a safety on the right side of the element housing [kinda buried] about 1/3 way down, right? Unplug, remove inch .long screw on top between element connectors, remove fuse and housing, test [Ohm, either good or bad, no in between. Buy T stat kit [comes with t fuse a working stat] install.

Doesn't look like you checked this one.

NEVER EVER THIS WORD

If you able to pull panel box I would disconnect dryer and check breaker on each leg

Good Luck

Pick up on of theses

I would call around the used and private repair shops, they sometimes have spare parts galore, for a lot less than new.

15 years?  Honestly, time for a new one.

What's it labeled on the diagram?

So the fact that I jumped the thermal fuse and it still wasn't putting out heat means there is another issue right?  

If it was the thermal fuse, jumping it should have has the elements come on right?

Pop top, the screw you see between the element wires holds a thermal fuse/high limit in place on the right side of the element housing. That needs to be OHM'ed out, if it's open it kills power. It's a bit tricky but you don't have to remove the element to test or replace it. It's about the size of a nickel, or just a bit smaller. You do have to cut power and remove at least one wire to OHM it out.

ok found that t-stat in the side housing.  so i've got these on my parts list:

http://www.partselect.com/Models/PYE2300AYW/Parts/PS2162282-Whirlpool-LA-1053-High-Limit-Kit.htm?SourceCode=20&SearchTerm=PYE2300AYW&ModelNum=PYE2300AYW&fSearchTerm=HEATER&ModelID=149696&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=35793&Position=5&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=5

what am i missing in this scenario?

high limit t-stat by itself is $38 but $17 in the kit above w/ the 2 other thermal fuses.
http://www.partselect.com/Models/PYE2300AYW/Parts/PS2047800-Whirlpool-53-0771-High-Limit-Thermostat-Limit-258-80.htm?SourceCode=20&SearchTerm=PYE2300AYW&ModelNum=PYE2300AYW&fSearchTerm=HEATER&ModelID=149696&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=35793&Position=5&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=5

so i'll replace the high limit t-stat on top, and the one on the side of the housing.  

prior to the short, the drum was tumbling but i still wasn't getting heat.  should i replace this one too for good measure?

http://www.partselect.com/Models/PYE2300AYW/Parts/PS2030863-Whirlpool-31001192-Control-Thermostat.htm?SourceCode=20&SearchTerm=PYE2300AYW&ModelNum=PYE2300AYW&fSearchTerm=MOTOR-AND-DRIVE&ModelID=151187&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=52480&Position=6&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=6

Did you OHM it out? Was it bad? ALWAYS buy the kits. They are far cheaper to buy that way and since you're already in there, one might as well change them all out. Sometimes the kits are as cheap or cheaper then just one stat.

No need to replace the working stat if you had no issues with drying times and the vent isn't clogged or partially clogged. They should always be closed at rest.

got the kit in today.  replaced both fuses in the high thermal kit, still no power.  checked the breakers and everything looks good.  terminal block looks clean.  

the stat wouldn't keep the unit completely off would it?

Working stat? No, Would run but not heat, should be normally closed at rest.

ok, what should i look at next?  i plan on going to home depot in the morning to get a tester to see if it's putting out 220 at the outlet and if it's getting power at the terminal block.  assuming it is, where should i be looking next.

got the voltage tester today, nothing at the outlet.  should be getting 220 by testing the 2 outside prongs or 110 with either side and the common at the bottom but nothing.  main breaker box outside isn't labeled but there is one that doesn't give a very positive click to on.  it has some resistance and any pressure on it will flip it to off.  so i think if i change out the breaker, that should restore power and then we can see if those fuse replacements fixed the dryer.

went to lowes and home depot and my breaker is a weird one they don't carry


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-30-Amp-40-Amp-Double-Pole-BR-Quad-Circuit-Breaker-BQC230240/100573848

i don't have any room on my breaker box for additional breakers so i can't split it up.  

is there anything i can use in the meantime while i wait for the replacement to arrive?

Do you live in a modular home by any chance?

nope, standard single family home built in 2006.

Got a photo of your panel  ?


Should not be anything special about a 2 pole breaker

Can you tell us what eachl breaker controls? I'm curious why you have so many 2-pole breakers. I see seven (7) 2-pole breakers in there. There's only two 20A 120V circuits in there.

The breaker in question is a Cutler Hammer BQC230240. It combines a 30A and 40A 2-pole breaker into a single 2-pole breaker unit. There's nothing you can replace it with since there's no room left in your panel. Unless you know what those two circuits are and can give up one to make the dryer work in the mean time. You could replace it with an appropriately sized 2-pole breaker for the dryer and nut the wires for the second circuit and leave them dead in the box temporarily until the replacement arrives.

ETA: Sorry, I read it previously, but forgot you already identified the breaker type. I'm still curious how your home is powered. Is there another panel somewhere with your 120V circuits?

yeah this is my main panel outside.  there's a subpanel in the garage with most of the house.

breaker replaced.  power back at outlets.  

high limit tstat and thermal fuse replaced but still no heat.

unit powers on and tumbles, just no heat.

should i replace the stat down at the bottom?