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Posted: 10/18/2015 8:01:44 PM EDT
Finally getting around to adding power to the barn.
Electric Co-op came out and confirmed they can do an overhead drop to the corner of the barn (pictured). I will be pulling a permit, but plan to do the work myself. I've done plenty of electrical work in homes but never a net-new service and never in a barn - so I'll have a lot of questions to keep it in code and best-practice. First question is regarding the service feed itself. Coop said they can provide it overhead to the left corner (pictured below). Simplicity would have the meter and riser/head on the left corner of the facing wall (red x location) rather that the opposite wall (inside the paddock). My concerns would be are there any codes regarding clearances from where the sliding door stops to where the meter box would be? Secondly, what is the maximum height for the meter box? The interior and exterior floor/ground levels differ by ~ 2' in that corner.  |
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Posted: 10/18/2015 9:27:59 PM EDT
[#1]
My coop has a construction guide. I was filling out the paperwork for a new barn last fall and the lady mentioned it. It had all their standards for just these types of situations.
See page 63 https://www.novec.com/Customer_Services/upload/Electricians-Guide-2013.pdf I have a sliding door near the meter base, and don't recall any concerns |
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Posted: 10/18/2015 10:59:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My coop has a construction guide. I was filling out the paperwork for a new barn last fall and the lady mentioned it. It had all their standards for just these types of situations. See page 63 https://www.novec.com/Customer_Services/upload/Electricians-Guide-2013.pdf I have a sliding door near the meter base, and don't recall any concerns Thanks for the doc - off to read now! |
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Posted: 10/21/2015 6:26:10 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the doc - off to read now! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My coop has a construction guide. I was filling out the paperwork for a new barn last fall and the lady mentioned it. It had all their standards for just these types of situations. See page 63 https://www.novec.com/Customer_Services/upload/Electricians-Guide-2013.pdf I have a sliding door near the meter base, and don't recall any concerns Thanks for the doc - off to read now! You really need to find the one for your coop. I helped a friend in S.C. last year and the standards were significantly different than IL. |
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Posted: 10/21/2015 10:34:14 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
<snip> You really need to find the one for your coop. I helped a friend in S.C. last year and the standards were significantly different than IL. No kidding. I have a very similar shed in Missouri and the power company over there forced me to run two services from one meter base--two 1/0 wires cramped into each lug of the meter base with one inevitably cramped around 180* like a hairpin. All this with 1/0 wires feeding both services. I pointed out the ampacity of 1/0 wire is only 150 amps and that setup wouldn't meet code, and he shot back "We don't have to follow code. If you want power to your shed this is how you will do it. You will never draw enough power to cause any problem." I guarantee that would never fly in Illinois--and with good reason. Illinois finally got something right over Missouri. 
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Posted: 10/21/2015 1:41:54 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No kidding. I have a very similar shed in Missouri and the power company over there forced me to run two services from one meter base--two 1/0 wires cramped into each lug of the meter base with one inevitably cramped around 180* like a hairpin. All this with 1/0 wires feeding both services. I pointed out the ampacity of 1/0 wire is only 150 amps and that setup wouldn't meet code, and he shot back "We don't have to follow code. If you want power to your shed this is how you will do it. You will never draw enough power to cause any problem." I guarantee that would never fly in Illinois--and with good reason. Illinois finally got something right over Missouri. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: <snip> You really need to find the one for your coop. I helped a friend in S.C. last year and the standards were significantly different than IL. No kidding. I have a very similar shed in Missouri and the power company over there forced me to run two services from one meter base--two 1/0 wires cramped into each lug of the meter base with one inevitably cramped around 180* like a hairpin. All this with 1/0 wires feeding both services. I pointed out the ampacity of 1/0 wire is only 150 amps and that setup wouldn't meet code, and he shot back "We don't have to follow code. If you want power to your shed this is how you will do it. You will never draw enough power to cause any problem." I guarantee that would never fly in Illinois--and with good reason. Illinois finally got something right over Missouri. I talked briefly with the coop's engineer last year when I first kicked around the idea of doing this when he came on site to confirm the drop location. His replies were pretty much "follow code". Given that they do require a county electrical inspection prior to hook-up I'm not expecting anything funky from the coop. I couldn't find any details on their site respective to an overhead drop (which mine will be), but their brochure on buried is straightforward with nothing wonky. http://owenelectric.coopwebbuilder2.com/sites/owenelectric/files/PDF/Underground%20Electric%20Service%20Brochure.pdf My main concerns are mostly with the nuances of a barn install, like: - I recall seeing certain clearance requirements for the meter relative to doors/windows but didn't see anything specific regarding a track door. I have 30+" of clearance where I want to mount it but unsure if that is sat. - how best to mount the meter box on the ribbed metal siding - do folks use bushings/standoffs or mount through the ribs only or build up the low spot with some treated 1x, etc - When mounting the panel on the interior (surface mount), is 3/4" treated ply, screwed to the purlins (about a 33" span) satisfactory or do I need to add some framing - I have 2 x 8' grounding rods to sink - need to determine location/spacing - There is a hydrant in the barn about 15' from where I need to locate the panel - does that have any impact? I should be able to mount the meter and panel back to back and the branch circuit requirements are pretty straightforward - I just want to make sure I don't end up needing to relocate the meter. |
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Posted: 10/21/2015 1:51:29 PM EDT
[#6]
I've only seen the power company mount the meter on a pole, then you go out the bottom underground to the inside of the building. It makes for a nice clean install.
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Posted: 10/21/2015 2:56:49 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've only seen the power company mount the meter on a pole, then you go out the bottom underground to the inside of the building. It makes for a nice clean install. Would be a very attractive option if it weren't for the limestone shelf the barn sits on... but may still be a valid plan B. Thanks!
I'll give the inspector a ring regarding my meter location concerns and see what he says. |
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Posted: 10/21/2015 10:15:31 PM EDT
[#8]
Unistrut across ribs anchored to wood or another piece of strut inside the barn. Meter height no higher than 5'5" to center. If 200 Amp service use 2"rigid metal as riser and weather head. Nipple out of back of meter base to inside panel. 3/4" treated plywood braced to interior members with 2x6 or channel iron or tubing ,or deep strut. Easy half day project.
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Posted: 10/22/2015 6:12:01 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Unistrut across ribs anchored to wood or another piece of strut inside the barn. Meter height no higher than 5'5" to center. If 200 Amp service use 2"rigid metal as riser and weather head. Nipple out of back of meter base to inside panel. 3/4" treated plywood braced to interior members with 2x6 or channel iron or tubing ,or deep strut. Easy half day project. Sounds like good advice. The only thing I would add is a wood filler strip behind the ribs to prevent crushing of the ribs if the metal is thin. You probably already know to use stainless steel or hot dipped galvanized fasteners in ACQ wood. Have you had a chance to speak with the Building Dept.? Any concerns? Schedule 80 PVC is required above grade in my county but in surrounding counties they don't enforce it... |
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Posted: 10/24/2015 11:26:49 AM EDT
[#10]
Thanks all for the advice so far. Life intervened this week so it will be a bit before I can get back to hands-on with this.
The unistrut is a good idea. I have seen it used around here, both horizontally across the ribs as well as vertically in the lands. The riser for the mast head - the supply house said pvc is fine but someone above mentioned metal. Does code specify? Will be a 200 amp service. Riser will be ~10 feet. |
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Posted: 10/24/2015 11:53:58 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks all for the advice so far. Life intervened this week so it will be a bit before I can get back to hands-on with this. The unistrut is a good idea. I have seen it used around here, both horizontally across the ribs as well as vertically in the lands. The riser for the mast head - the supply house said pvc is fine but someone above mentioned metal. Does code specify? Will be a 200 amp service. Riser will be ~10 feet. PVC is fine, if the overhead cables are secured to the building and not the riser. If you nipple between the meter base and the panel, use PVC. If you use metal, you'll have to use a grounding bushing on it. |
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Posted: 10/24/2015 3:51:09 PM EDT
[#12]
The NEC does not apply to the POCO side of the meter.
That is 'distribution wiring' and POCOs have completely (and varying) standards. |
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Posted: 10/24/2015 5:23:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks all for the advice so far. Life intervened this week so it will be a bit before I can get back to hands-on with this. The unistrut is a good idea. I have seen it used around here, both horizontally across the ribs as well as vertically in the lands. The riser for the mast head - the supply house said pvc is fine but someone above mentioned metal. Does code specify? Will be a 200 amp service. Riser will be ~10 feet. I only used 2" rigid for the mast. Edited for spelling. |
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Posted: 10/25/2015 12:57:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I only used 2" ridged for the mast. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thanks all for the advice so far. Life intervened this week so it will be a bit before I can get back to hands-on with this. The unistrut is a good idea. I have seen it used around here, both horizontally across the ribs as well as vertically in the lands. The riser for the mast head - the supply house said pvc is fine but someone above mentioned metal. Does code specify? Will be a 200 amp service. Riser will be ~10 feet. I only used 2" ridged for the mast. Length from final pole to mast head and weather (ice and wind) loads. |
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Posted: 11/11/2015 7:32:24 PM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 11/15/2015 5:19:56 PM EDT
[#19]
Dude, where the hell did you find that weatherhead?!?!?! It's huge! I often find bee/wasp nests in weatherheads, your's is going to be a racoon hangout!
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Posted: 11/16/2015 7:13:44 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dude, where the hell did you find that weatherhead?!?!?! It's huge! I often find bee/wasp nests in weatherheads, your's is going to be a racoon hangout! lol. It's what the supply house here carries for a 2.5" mast. I don't mind if the racoons wanna hang-out in it - as long as they lick a primary.  Have the inspector coming by today for a consult/look-see - want to make sure he's ok with the install so far and get his take on the branch circuit requirements. |
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Posted: 11/16/2015 7:53:58 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dude, where the hell did you find that weatherhead?!?!?! It's huge! I often find bee/wasp nests in weatherheads, your's is going to be a racoon hangout! Looks good OP |
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Posted: 11/16/2015 7:21:25 PM EDT
[#22]
Had the visit by the inspector today - work so far checks out fine.
He wants the branch circuits run with MC - glad I asked! |
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Posted: 11/17/2015 12:13:45 AM EDT
[#23]
Does "MC" mean "metal conduit?" If so, that is normal, as you don't want to use Romex in sheds/barns/out buildings, due to rodent damage. Your hands sweat while installing it and they like the salt.
Be sure to NOT run Romex inside of conduit--use the rolls of wire ("THHN"?)--as heat builds up to a dangerous level. I'm glad the work was approved.
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Posted: 11/17/2015 12:36:07 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does "MC" mean "metal conduit?" If so, that is normal, as you don't want to use Romex in sheds/barns/out buildings, due to rodent damage. Your hands sweat while installing it and they like the salt. Be sure to NOT run Romex inside of conduit--use the rolls of wire ("THHN"?)--as heat builds up to a dangerous level. I'm glad the work was approved. "MC" is metal clad, think of romex with a metal flex jacket. |
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Posted: 11/17/2015 12:43:24 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
"MC" is metal clad, think of romex with a metal flex jacket. https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQxfByTF7bnNzoQ30FCEJaSVxS4_x_kxPNED6FkPYgiZNgQmwCfGA Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Does "MC" mean "metal conduit?" If so, that is normal, as you don't want to use Romex in sheds/barns/out buildings, due to rodent damage. Your hands sweat while installing it and they like the salt. Be sure to NOT run Romex inside of conduit--use the rolls of wire ("THHN"?)--as heat builds up to a dangerous level. I'm glad the work was approved. "MC" is metal clad, think of romex with a metal flex jacket. https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQxfByTF7bnNzoQ30FCEJaSVxS4_x_kxPNED6FkPYgiZNgQmwCfGA Ah, thanks. Isn't that stuff much more expensive than EMT and wires? |
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Posted: 11/17/2015 1:01:25 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ah, thanks. Isn't that stuff much more expensive than EMT and wires? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Does "MC" mean "metal conduit?" If so, that is normal, as you don't want to use Romex in sheds/barns/out buildings, due to rodent damage. Your hands sweat while installing it and they like the salt. Be sure to NOT run Romex inside of conduit--use the rolls of wire ("THHN"?)--as heat builds up to a dangerous level. I'm glad the work was approved. "MC" is metal clad, think of romex with a metal flex jacket. https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQxfByTF7bnNzoQ30FCEJaSVxS4_x_kxPNED6FkPYgiZNgQmwCfGA Ah, thanks. Isn't that stuff much more expensive than EMT and wires? Not at all, plus install time is much faster. But if it was my barn I would run emt, to me it looks better and is way more durable. |
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Posted: 11/17/2015 1:04:29 AM EDT
[#27]
Thanks for the info. As you can tell, I know "just enough to be dangerous" so I appreciate good information.
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Posted: 11/17/2015 9:13:08 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does "MC" mean "metal conduit?" If so, that is normal, as you don't want to use Romex in sheds/barns/out buildings, due to rodent damage. Your hands sweat while installing it and they like the salt. Be sure to NOT run Romex inside of conduit--use the rolls of wire ("THHN"?)--as heat builds up to a dangerous level. I'm glad the work was approved. Thanks - me too! Since I only need three branch circuits for the inspection (2 lights: one over the panel and one over the entrance door, and one GFCI outlet by the panel) I'll do them in MC since it's what he asked, it's easy, relatively cheap and won't be exposed to animal or machine traffic. If/when I run power elsewhere - especially if it's to the pens or stalls - I'll go EMT - at least for the lower 8' if not the whole run. |
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Posted: 11/17/2015 11:13:13 AM EDT
[#29]
EMT is better in an exposed location than MC or non-metallic, but if you have horses around you might want to consider rigid or intermediate. Also, I'm pretty sure EMT needs to have liquid tight fittings if you intend to hose down the area. Just a thought...
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Posted: 11/17/2015 5:27:38 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks - me too! Since I only need three branch circuits for the inspection (2 lights: one over the panel and one over the entrance door, and one GFCI outlet by the panel) I'll do them in MC since it's what he asked, it's easy, relatively cheap and won't be exposed to animal or machine traffic. If/when I run power elsewhere - especially if it's to the pens or stalls - I'll go EMT - at least for the lower 8' if not the whole run. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Does "MC" mean "metal conduit?" If so, that is normal, as you don't want to use Romex in sheds/barns/out buildings, due to rodent damage. Your hands sweat while installing it and they like the salt. Be sure to NOT run Romex inside of conduit--use the rolls of wire ("THHN"?)--as heat builds up to a dangerous level. I'm glad the work was approved. Thanks - me too! Since I only need three branch circuits for the inspection (2 lights: one over the panel and one over the entrance door, and one GFCI outlet by the panel) I'll do them in MC since it's what he asked, it's easy, relatively cheap and won't be exposed to animal or machine traffic. If/when I run power elsewhere - especially if it's to the pens or stalls - I'll go EMT - at least for the lower 8' if not the whole run. 'Metal Clad.' Often spiral armor. Unlike AC (Armor Clad) MC always has a run ground wire. It is still not all that damage resistant though. EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing) is better but not as good as Rigid Conduit or Intermediate Conduit. In a barn you have to watch out about aluminum use also. Steel with at least enamel paint is a decent starting point. |
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Posted: 11/20/2015 2:40:35 PM EDT
[#31]
Could use another round of advice.
All I have left to wire for the inspection is the exterior entrance light. Trying to figure out what is the best method given the challenges of the ribbed metal exterior. Here is where I want the light:  Interior shot:  Ribs:  There are two sets of low ribs (~4" apart and ~3/8" high) between the higher ~.75" main . I have a basic metal gooseneck exterior fixture. It would normally mount to a standard 4" octagon box. What would be the easiest and code compliant means? An (exterior rated) box mounted on the exterior with a stub of conduit for the cable to pass through or an interior mounted box with the a 4" hole cut in the siding or ??? Best practice? Googling turned up a lot of "First ya get 4 tubes of caulk and hacksaw..." |
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Posted: 11/20/2015 3:41:34 PM EDT
[#32]
What's the make and model of the fixture?
Is a flood with a photocell and motion sensor visually acceptable to you? |
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Posted: 11/20/2015 4:11:41 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What's the make and model of the fixture? Is a flood with a photocell and motion sensor visually acceptable to you?  http://www.lowes.com/pd_337508-43501-FS130125-30_1z0wb7j__?productId=50106276&pl=1 Above is what I have. Are you thinking something along the lines of:  On an appropriate exterior mounted box, like:  ? I'm not opposed to it - would be quickest - just not plan A(aesthetically). |
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Posted: 11/20/2015 6:16:44 PM EDT
[#34]
Yes, that's what I was thinking. Similar to the flood that you posted but with a motion sensor. Either surface mounted with an approved transition to the MC or recessing a weather proof box so it only sticks out beyond the face of the siding just enough so that the gasket of the fixture can seal properly. If recessed standard MC can connect directly to the box without concern about the connection being in a "wet location". More lumens too but I don't know what you need.
Since speaking up earlier today I remembered a nice detail that I saw in the past. Someone took a piece of 3/4" thick PVC or Azek and cut it so it was a little larger than the mounting base of a wall sconce. They routed out the back of the trim with the same profile as the siding ribs and applied some caulk between the two prior to putting the two together. It created a nice seal and the caulk wasn't exposed visually or to the sun. They then cut a hole for a standard mounting box and the sconce gasket sealed nicely against that smooth surface of the PVC to protect the wire splice. The sconce that you have looks nice, can see why you prefer it. |
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Posted: 11/21/2015 7:32:07 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes, that's what I was thinking. Similar to the flood that you posted but with a motion sensor. Either surface mounted with an approved transition to the MC or recessing a weather proof box so it only sticks out beyond the face of the siding just enough so that the gasket of the fixture can seal properly. If recessed standard MC can connect directly to the box without concern about the connection being in a "wet location". More lumens too but I don't know what you need. Since speaking up earlier today I remembered a nice detail that I saw in the past. Someone took a piece of 3/4" thick PVC or Azek and cut it so it was a little larger than the mounting base of a wall sconce. They routed out the back of the trim with the same profile as the siding ribs and applied some caulk between the two prior to putting the two together. It created a nice seal and the caulk wasn't exposed visually or to the sun. They then cut a hole for a standard mounting box and the sconce gasket sealed nicely against that smooth surface of the PVC to protect the wire splice. The sconce that you have looks nice, can see why you prefer it. The more I've thought about it, the more the idea of a standard motion/flood light over the door appeals to me. The door does face our long drive and having a light trip if someone is coming up would act as both a courtesy and an alarm of sorts. I can always "upgrade" later if the Mrs. decides form over function - and this approach would involve minimal effort upfront. If I went this route, what would be the approved transition for the MC to the exterior weatherproof box? Conversely - if I stuck with the gooseneck lamp and mount a box recessed on the interior - what can of box would be appropriate? A standard steel hex still OK or would I need to switch to plastic or ? And thanks for the input! |
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Posted: 11/21/2015 10:50:49 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The more I've thought about it, the more the idea of a standard motion/flood light over the door appeals to me. The door does face our long drive and having a light trip if someone is coming up would act as both a courtesy and an alarm of sorts. I can always "upgrade" later if the Mrs. decides form over function - and this approach would involve minimal effort upfront. If I went this route, what would be the approved transition for the MC to the exterior weatherproof box? There are two ways of looking at this... What satisfies the NEC code and what actually keeps moisture out of the switch box etc over the long term to help prevent oxidation. If going with a surface mounted weather proof box and flood I would just use a short rigid nipple and coupling to get to the interior of the building then use a standard mc r/a connector on the other end of the rigid coupling. Conversely - if I stuck with the gooseneck lamp and mount a box recessed on the interior - what can of box would be appropriate? A standard steel hex still OK or would I need to switch to plastic or ? A steel octagon box is fine. What's problematic is that the sconce base is too large and is intended to seal to the surrounding surface, not the octagon box. That concern and the siding ribs are a problem and is why I suggested a smooth face filler between the siding and the sconce but it is more work. The inspector may not comment but moisture in a system scares the heck out of me even if the conductors are rated for wet locations. Out of curiosity, is that roll of MC that you purchased rated for wet locations? And thanks for the input! You're welcome Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yes, that's what I was thinking. Similar to the flood that you posted but with a motion sensor. Either surface mounted with an approved transition to the MC or recessing a weather proof box so it only sticks out beyond the face of the siding just enough so that the gasket of the fixture can seal properly. If recessed standard MC can connect directly to the box without concern about the connection being in a "wet location". More lumens too but I don't know what you need. Since speaking up earlier today I remembered a nice detail that I saw in the past. Someone took a piece of 3/4" thick PVC or Azek and cut it so it was a little larger than the mounting base of a wall sconce. They routed out the back of the trim with the same profile as the siding ribs and applied some caulk between the two prior to putting the two together. It created a nice seal and the caulk wasn't exposed visually or to the sun. They then cut a hole for a standard mounting box and the sconce gasket sealed nicely against that smooth surface of the PVC to protect the wire splice. The sconce that you have looks nice, can see why you prefer it. The more I've thought about it, the more the idea of a standard motion/flood light over the door appeals to me. The door does face our long drive and having a light trip if someone is coming up would act as both a courtesy and an alarm of sorts. I can always "upgrade" later if the Mrs. decides form over function - and this approach would involve minimal effort upfront. If I went this route, what would be the approved transition for the MC to the exterior weatherproof box? There are two ways of looking at this... What satisfies the NEC code and what actually keeps moisture out of the switch box etc over the long term to help prevent oxidation. If going with a surface mounted weather proof box and flood I would just use a short rigid nipple and coupling to get to the interior of the building then use a standard mc r/a connector on the other end of the rigid coupling. Conversely - if I stuck with the gooseneck lamp and mount a box recessed on the interior - what can of box would be appropriate? A standard steel hex still OK or would I need to switch to plastic or ? A steel octagon box is fine. What's problematic is that the sconce base is too large and is intended to seal to the surrounding surface, not the octagon box. That concern and the siding ribs are a problem and is why I suggested a smooth face filler between the siding and the sconce but it is more work. The inspector may not comment but moisture in a system scares the heck out of me even if the conductors are rated for wet locations. Out of curiosity, is that roll of MC that you purchased rated for wet locations? And thanks for the input! You're welcome |
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Posted: 11/21/2015 3:16:07 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yes, that's what I was thinking. Similar to the flood that you posted but with a motion sensor. Either surface mounted with an approved transition to the MC or recessing a weather proof box so it only sticks out beyond the face of the siding just enough so that the gasket of the fixture can seal properly. If recessed standard MC can connect directly to the box without concern about the connection being in a "wet location". More lumens too but I don't know what you need. Since speaking up earlier today I remembered a nice detail that I saw in the past. Someone took a piece of 3/4" thick PVC or Azek and cut it so it was a little larger than the mounting base of a wall sconce. They routed out the back of the trim with the same profile as the siding ribs and applied some caulk between the two prior to putting the two together. It created a nice seal and the caulk wasn't exposed visually or to the sun. They then cut a hole for a standard mounting box and the sconce gasket sealed nicely against that smooth surface of the PVC to protect the wire splice. The sconce that you have looks nice, can see why you prefer it. The more I've thought about it, the more the idea of a standard motion/flood light over the door appeals to me. The door does face our long drive and having a light trip if someone is coming up would act as both a courtesy and an alarm of sorts. I can always "upgrade" later if the Mrs. decides form over function - and this approach would involve minimal effort upfront. If I went this route, what would be the approved transition for the MC to the exterior weatherproof box? There are two ways of looking at this... What satisfies the NEC code and what actually keeps moisture out of the switch box etc over the long term to help prevent oxidation. If going with a surface mounted weather proof box and flood I would just use a short rigid nipple and coupling to get to the interior of the building then use a standard mc r/a connector on the other end of the rigid coupling. Conversely - if I stuck with the gooseneck lamp and mount a box recessed on the interior - what can of box would be appropriate? A standard steel hex still OK or would I need to switch to plastic or ? A steel octagon box is fine. What's problematic is that the sconce base is too large and is intended to seal to the surrounding surface, not the octagon box. That concern and the siding ribs are a problem and is why I suggested a smooth face filler between the siding and the sconce but it is more work. The inspector may not comment but moisture in a system scares the heck out of me even if the conductors are rated for wet locations. Out of curiosity, is that roll of MC that you purchased rated for wet locations? And thanks for the input! You're welcome Yes. The mc I have is wet rated. Thanks again. |
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