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Posted: 9/16/2015 8:11:36 PM EDT
[#1]
Get some birch plywood and build a small bookshelf or step stool.
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Posted: 9/16/2015 8:34:14 PM EDT
[#2]
How about building a proper wood working bench as your first project.
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Posted: 9/16/2015 9:28:36 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How about building a proper wood working bench as your first project. Got any good knock down/portable options aside from the Moravian Workbench? |
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Posted: 9/16/2015 9:29:50 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Get some birch plywood and build a small bookshelf or step stool. I've got some cabinets in my garage I made when all I had was a circular saw, router, and straight edge. Same concept as using a TS with a dado stack....only it probably took 5x as long to do 1 cabinet  |
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Posted: 9/16/2015 9:38:27 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Got any good knock down/portable options aside from the Moravian Workbench? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: How about building a proper wood working bench as your first project. Got any good knock down/portable options aside from the Moravian Workbench? How portable? Pick up and move to different locations, or just be able to pack away in a corner of the garage? |
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Posted: 9/16/2015 11:39:53 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How portable? Pick up and move to different locations, or just be able to pack away in a corner of the garage? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: How about building a proper wood working bench as your first project. Got any good knock down/portable options aside from the Moravian Workbench? How portable? Pick up and move to different locations, or just be able to pack away in a corner of the garage? pick up and move. It'll probably move between basement and garage. Garage during the warm months and basement during the winter. Probably no longer than 6', and a top that is no wider than 30" (if a one piece slab). This is one option...http://www.closegrain.com/2010/08/portable-workbench.html <ETA> I'd prefer that it broke down in pieces rather than fold all together. It'll be easier for me to navigate through the house, move it, and store it if it comes apart. |
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Posted: 9/16/2015 11:42:20 PM EDT
[#7]
I built a collapsible gun rack with a neighbor as my first project. Let me see if I can find a pic... Also, fishing rod ceiling mounted holders are pretty slick.
ETA: Here it is. brass fittings and walnut stock. a bit of carpet and leather, and biggity bam. It was a really fun project. 
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Posted: 9/17/2015 5:47:13 AM EDT
[#8]
What kind of tools do you have?
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Posted: 9/17/2015 7:35:15 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: pick up and move. It'll probably move between basement and garage. Garage during the warm months and basement during the winter. Probably no longer than 6', and a top that is no wider than 30" (if a one piece slab). This is one option...http://www.closegrain.com/2010/08/portable-workbench.html <ETA> I'd prefer that it broke down in pieces rather than fold all together. It'll be easier for me to navigate through the house, move it, and store it if it comes apart. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: How about building a proper wood working bench as your first project. Got any good knock down/portable options aside from the Moravian Workbench? How portable? Pick up and move to different locations, or just be able to pack away in a corner of the garage? pick up and move. It'll probably move between basement and garage. Garage during the warm months and basement during the winter. Probably no longer than 6', and a top that is no wider than 30" (if a one piece slab). This is one option...http://www.closegrain.com/2010/08/portable-workbench.html <ETA> I'd prefer that it broke down in pieces rather than fold all together. It'll be easier for me to navigate through the house, move it, and store it if it comes apart. Making a stand that can be disassemble is relatively easy. You just have to decide how extreme you want to go. A simple post style that is bolted together wouldn't take much time at all. Creative wood joints would be more challenging of course. The real problem is building a top that won't be too heavy. You could come up with a design that makes a main top that is manageable, and then sections that can be added when a larger surface is needed. |
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Posted: 9/17/2015 9:32:47 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How about building a proper wood working bench as your first project. DING! Make it a knock-down type. Workbench = most important tool in the shop. |
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Posted: 9/17/2015 10:06:42 AM EDT
[#11]
Bench, storage and then start building some jigs.
Watch some Youtube videos from The Marc Spagnuolo, Steve Ramsey, Jay Bates for lots of "easy" projects. My first project was a bench supported between 2 planter boxes for my back porch. Jay Bates' videos are a little more interesting as a beginner because he makes some decent looking furniture out of Lowes/HD framing lumber and it's cheap if when you screw up. |
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Posted: 9/17/2015 1:09:29 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What kind of tools do you have? DW715 chop/miter saw DW7490X table saw (jobsite) Bosch palm router Bosch JS269 Jigsaw Ridgid 7 1/4 circular saw Ridgid 18V impact and drill set Irwin chisel set Wood carving chisels
Handsaws (carpenters, hack, coping. Planning on getting a dovetail or Japanese backsaw) Assortment of clamps (probably 12-18, mix of a few different kinds...no pipe or F body clamps.) Two 90 deg clamps A few kinds of squares and straight edges. Hammers/mallets (claw, dead blow, rubber, 18oz carving mallet) |
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Posted: 9/17/2015 4:44:38 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
DW715 chop/miter saw DW7490X table saw (jobsite) Bosch palm router Bosch JS269 Jigsaw Ridgid 7 1/4 circular saw Ridgid 18V impact and drill set Irwin chisel setWood carving chisels Handsaws (carpenters, hack, coping. Planning on getting a dovetail or Japanese backsaw) Assortment of clamps (probably 12-18, mix of a few different kinds...no pipe or F body clamps.) Two 90 deg clamps A few kinds of squares and straight edges. Hammers/mallets (claw, dead blow, rubber, 18oz carving mallet) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What kind of tools do you have? DW715 chop/miter saw DW7490X table saw (jobsite) Bosch palm router Bosch JS269 Jigsaw Ridgid 7 1/4 circular saw Ridgid 18V impact and drill set Irwin chisel setWood carving chisels Handsaws (carpenters, hack, coping. Planning on getting a dovetail or Japanese backsaw) Assortment of clamps (probably 12-18, mix of a few different kinds...no pipe or F body clamps.) Two 90 deg clamps A few kinds of squares and straight edges. Hammers/mallets (claw, dead blow, rubber, 18oz carving mallet) Based on the above, I'd recommend your next project be a router table. Will be a good practice project and will graduate you into a new world of woodworking capabilities. Doesn't have to be all that fancy. Just need to have a good flat top and an accurate fence. If you can't find plans let me know and I'll track some down for you. Here's a good place to start: Free Woodworking Plans |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 10:34:49 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Based on the above, I'd recommend your next project be a router table. Will be a good practice project and will graduate you into a new world of woodworking capabilities. Doesn't have to be all that fancy. Just need to have a good flat top and an accurate fence. If you can't find plans let me know and I'll track some down for you. Here's a good place to start: Free Woodworking Plans Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
What kind of tools do you have? DW715 chop/miter saw DW7490X table saw (jobsite) Bosch palm router Bosch JS269 Jigsaw Ridgid 7 1/4 circular saw Ridgid 18V impact and drill set Irwin chisel setWood carving chisels Handsaws (carpenters, hack, coping. Planning on getting a dovetail or Japanese backsaw) Assortment of clamps (probably 12-18, mix of a few different kinds...no pipe or F body clamps.) Two 90 deg clamps A few kinds of squares and straight edges. Hammers/mallets (claw, dead blow, rubber, 18oz carving mallet) Based on the above, I'd recommend your next project be a router table. Will be a good practice project and will graduate you into a new world of woodworking capabilities. Doesn't have to be all that fancy. Just need to have a good flat top and an accurate fence. If you can't find plans let me know and I'll track some down for you. Here's a good place to start: Free Woodworking Plans Not a bad idea, but a band saw and/or scroll saw is mighty handy to have around the shop as well. |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 1:41:41 PM EDT
[#15]
I didn't think that a trim/Palm/compact router would be worth while to mount in a table...turns out I was wrong. Rockler sells one for about $60....which I'm not gonna buy since I can replicate the same thing with the MDF scrap and other MISC stuff I have around.
I think I might be able to find some T track alternatives at the hardware store
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Posted: 9/18/2015 1:44:56 PM EDT
[#16]
I made this with a skill saw and a nail gun.
It would have been way better with better tools. |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 6:11:26 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I didn't think that a trim/Palm/compact router would be worth while to mount in a table...turns out I was wrong. Rockler sells one for about $60....which I'm not gonna buy since I can replicate the same thing with the MDF scrap and other MISC stuff I have around. I think I might be able to find some T track alternatives at the hardware store A normal 1/4 HP router will handle a lot of tasks mounted in a table. Mine's a 3 HP but I've been doing this for a long time. Still, for inspiration sake for your design: 
also Covert's thread on jigs fixtures and shop furniture |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 9:15:47 PM EDT
[#18]
A GOOD woodworking bench is not a breakdown and easily movable bench. If you want to ultimately do hand tool wood working, it needs to be as stout and sturdy as you can make. It doesn't need to be extremely long or wide. You don't want something that will rack and sway as you cut with a handsaw or chop out waste on a dovetail or mortise with chisels.
For ideas on workbenches, get chris Schwarz's books on design of and building of workbenches http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/workbenches-from-design-theory-to-construction-use-revised-edition You don't need to spend big on relatively expensive hard maple for the top. Ash is an excellent bend surface, and has better spanwise performance for deflection under its own load than maple or red oak. And it may still be reasonably inexpensive oer bd ft due to so many being cut down because of the destruction from the emerald ash borer beetle And some like this guy's workbench design that uses common dimensional lumber http://www.popularwoodworking.com/workbenches/schwarz-workbenches/a-new-lesson-from-an-old-workbench A bandsaw would be a whole lot more useful and practical that a scroll saw if what you want to make is furniture. (Assuming you don't mean a saber or jig-saw). |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 9:25:03 PM EDT
[#19]
I'd recommend a visit to Paul Sellers' YouTube channel, and if you are really into it, his pay channel.
He is down-to-earth, pragmatic, frugal and prolific with regard to content. He has a bench series on the free site. |
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Posted: 9/18/2015 9:26:07 PM EDT
[#20]
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Posted: 9/19/2015 11:27:32 PM EDT
[#21]
Just realized I have a part of my basement that's a "dead" area that we do not use. Any reason I shouldn't tie a bench into the studs ?
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Posted: 9/20/2015 7:48:12 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just realized I have a part of my basement that's a "dead" area that we do not use. Any reason I shouldn't tie a bench into the studs ? No and there is a stickied work bench thread up top here for ideas. |
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Posted: 9/20/2015 3:14:53 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just realized I have a part of my basement that's a "dead" area that we do not use. Any reason I shouldn't tie a bench into the studs ? Depends on what you are building. I prefer a freestanding bench as larger projects can hang over all sides of the bench without hitting the wall. Attaching a bench to a wall is instant stability, I'd take a stable wall mounted bench over a rickety freestanding bench any day, though. Woodworkers are creative, and any workspace restrictions can be surmounted. You can do good work on a door stretched over sawhorses if you know what you're doing. |
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Posted: 9/20/2015 9:19:51 PM EDT
[#24]
Position against the wall if space is at a premium, , but I would not fasten it to the wall. Maybe wait for this issue to hit the newstands?
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/cheap-simple-portable-yes-another-workbench?utm_source=email&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=pww-cgb-nl-150920&et_mid=784653&rid=237530991 PWW also has their "I can do that" series of projects especially for beginners. A couple years ago I built a "Roubo" type workbench to replace the first one I had built. That first bench lasted about 17 years, but wasn't up to the task of hand planing boards. I pretty much pulled the top free of the base by all the lateral forces of planing. This thing should last a lifetime plus a couple, as long as it stays dry and taken care of by whoever gets it next. The top is through doevtailed and mortised to the leg posts. The leg posts and stretchers are drawbore tenoned together, plus glued up with West Systems epoxy. Since I rook the photo, it got its leg vise, a shelf between the stretchers, and a sliding dead,and to help support hand jointing long boards. The tope is ash, 4" thick and glued up, the legs are from red oak tree I cut down matbe eight years ago. They are about 4x5". The top is about 22" wide, and that is really plenty, unless your arms are 5' long. I made it 8' long, but shorter is fine too. It has a tail vise plus dog holes drilled along one edge. I also built a Moxon twin screw vise/auxiliary work surface to hold boards when sawing dovetails. It sits and is clamped to the bench top. I will try to get a current photo soon and post it in the workbench thread.  " />
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Posted: 9/20/2015 11:06:00 PM EDT
[#25]
This is probably a silly question but is there any reason why shouldn't use 1/2 ply for a tablesaw crosscut sled? Or any other shop jigs for that matter? Most seem to use 3/4 ply for this sort of thing. Is that for added weight/stiffness?
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Posted: 9/20/2015 11:08:06 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is probably a silly question but is there any reason why shouldn't use 1/2 ply for a tablesaw crosscut sled? Or any other shop jigs for that matter? Most seem to use 3/4 ply for this sort of thing. Is that for added weight/stiffness? From what I know, it would be better to do this with Baltic birch because it is extremely stable. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will be along shortly to confirm or deny that though. http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/tips-tricks/your-ultimate-guide-to-baltic-birch-plywood-why-its-better-when-to-use-it/ |
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Posted: 9/20/2015 11:26:40 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Position against the wall if space is at a premium, , but I would not fasten it to the wall. Maybe wait for this issue to hit the newstands? http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/cheap-simple-portable-yes-another-workbench?utm_source=email&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=pww-cgb-nl-150920&et_mid=784653&rid=237530991 PWW also has their "I can do that" series of projects especially for beginners. A couple years ago I built a "Roubo" type workbench to replace the first one I had built. That first bench lasted about 17 years, but wasn't up to the task of hand planing boards. I pretty much pulled the top free of the base by all the lateral forces of planing. This thing should last a lifetime plus a couple, as long as it stays dry and taken care of by whoever gets it next. The top is through doevtailed and mortised to the leg posts. The leg posts and stretchers are drawbore tenoned together, plus glued up with West Systems epoxy. Since I rook the photo, it got its leg vise, a shelf between the stretchers, and a sliding dead,and to help support hand jointing long boards. The tope is ash, 4" thick and glued up, the legs are from red oak tree I cut down matbe eight years ago. They are about 4x5". The top is about 22" wide, and that is really plenty, unless your arms are 5' long. I made it 8' long, but shorter is fine too. It has a tail vise plus dog holes drilled along one edge. I also built a Moxon twin screw vise/auxiliary work surface to hold boards when sawing dovetails. It sits and is clamped to the bench top. I will try to get a current photo soon and post it in the workbench thread. http://<a href=http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n219/jonquinn66/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps3beb71d9.jpg</a>" /> What is the thinking on the cross grain end pieces on the bench top? Looks like a potential spot for failure do to wood movement. Is there a hidden breadboard end? Very nice Roubo. |
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Posted: 9/21/2015 7:27:05 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is probably a silly question but is there any reason why shouldn't use 1/2 ply for a tablesaw crosscut sled? Or any other shop jigs for that matter? Most seem to use 3/4 ply for this sort of thing. Is that for added weight/stiffness? I'd use 3/4" Baltic Birch ply for a crosscut sled. As for other jigs, it depends on what they are. I use 3/4" MDF, phenolic ply, UHMW, and hardwood for a variety of jigs. This is UHMW btw 
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Posted: 9/21/2015 8:39:56 PM EDT
[#29]
Yes go with 3/4" Baltic birch if you can get it.
You want the most stable material you can get. |
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Posted: 9/22/2015 10:35:37 AM EDT
[#30]
The thickness of a crosscut sled isn't critical, as long as it stays flat. The fences will keep it flat side to side and the runners tend to keep it flat front to back, unless you are starting with a potato chip. The advantage of going thinner is preserving depth of cut and lightening the appliance.
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Posted: 9/23/2015 11:51:20 PM EDT
[#31]
I ended up making a zero clearance insert today for my TS and got halfway through making my crosscut sled. I really need to get a flush cut bit for my router, cutting a ZCI with a jigsaw and sanding to fit isn't the most accurate but it does work. I do need to get a fostner, hole saw, or spade bit to cut a bigger hole in it. I'm currently using a gasket puller to go through that hole to pull the insert out. IDK if it's necessary but I rounded the edges slightly with some rough sandpaper, my thinking was the smoother edge would be less likely to split/splinter with use. I also gave it a quick rub/coat of paste wax since the surface felt kind of "grabby" even after I did a quick sanding on it. I made 4 other blanks without the curves cut so I can make more as I need them]
Since I had the plywood blade in my circular saw I also cut up some plywood for a crosscut sled base and fences. I didn't get to rip down some 1x2 red oak to use as runners as it was getting late. I didn't feel comfortable ripping them down with the stock insert so making the ZCI was a necessity for me. Hopefully I will get to finish it in the next day or two. Need to laminate the fences pieces together, cut a dust groove into them, secure them to the base, and rip down and glue the runners on. I've got a few other projects on my list. A tennoning jig that slides over my fence, a french cleat router table for my mini router, a shop vac and cyclone cart (vertical stack I think), and a storage cubby thing that I'm using as practice for something I want to build for my son. |
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Posted: 9/24/2015 6:13:33 AM EDT
[#32]
Incra sliders will work better in your miter slots than oak.
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Posted: 9/24/2015 7:21:27 AM EDT
[#33]
Sounds like you're off to a good start.
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Posted: 9/25/2015 1:48:20 AM EDT
[#34]
Thanks. It's good to be able to start to scratch my creative itch.
I also got told today I can take some left over pallet rack home. I think my workbench is going to get partially disassembled and I will use the top and lower shelf as the shelving for the pallet rack. I'm thinking about making a mobile table saw station and incorporating a router table in it. I have a crude drawing I want to render in sketchup and get some ideas on before I commit to it. |
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Posted: 9/25/2015 7:09:18 AM EDT
[#35]
Obviously space will dictate how you set your tools up, and how many you can squeeze in the shop.
Because my shop sometimes doubles as a work space for my cars (not to mention all the crap I have to store in it ), I've had to make everything easy to move around, with the exception of my table saw. I wanted that fixed in place with a permanent out-feed table. I figured this would serve two purposes, one being that its a very rigid work station, and the second being that I won't be tempted to push it off to the side. Of course I just have to learn to keep from piling stuff on top of them, so I don't have to spend so much time cleaning up when I want to use them.  |
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Posted: 9/26/2015 8:07:35 PM EDT
[#36]
I'm just doing small stuff now due to only having hand tools and handheld electric tools.
I made a shooting board so I could get straight boards with square ends. 
I made a wall rack with screws and a Kreg jig to hold clamps out of the way. 
I made a freestanding rack to hold handsaws This is my first try at anything not using metal fasteners. 
I haven't made anything "pretty" yet, but "useful" is a step up from where I was a couple years ago (No knowledge no tools). My next project is gonna be a box full of bamboo skewers to make a knife holder. 
One day, I hope to build a poor mans Gerstner chest. I was reading thread in GD about shop classes, and definitely wished I had taken some woodshop classes in high school. |
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Posted: 9/26/2015 9:26:51 PM EDT
[#37]
I just wish I could make a square cut with a handsaw
. Guys who work with nothing but hand tools amaze me. I'm thinking my next tool purchases will likely be some vintage stanley handplanes. I did drop by a lumbar yard who specializes in hardwoods and softwoods. Talk about an eye opening experience. No way in hell am I ever buying any wood from a big box store EVER again. Their cheapest plywood was cheaper and better quality than the crap I bought at Lowes earlier this week. I need to swing by harbor freight later this coming week and buy one of those folding trailer kits. I just want the metal 4x8 frame, don't need anything else as I'm going to use U bolts to retrofit it to my port-a-chopper trailer. They sell a kit that does the exact same thing but costs $500. I could also just put my roof rack back on the car when I make runs to the lumbar yard, but the weight capacity is kind of limited. |
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Posted: 9/26/2015 9:43:27 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just wish I could make a square cut with a handsaw . Guys who work with nothing but hand tools amaze me. I'm thinking my next tool purchases will likely be some vintage stanley handplanes.
I did drop by a lumbar yard who specializes in hardwoods and softwoods. Talk about an eye opening experience. No way in hell am I ever buying any wood from a big box store EVER again. Their cheapest plywood was cheaper and better quality than the crap I bought at Lowes earlier this week. I need to swing by harbor freight later this coming week and buy one of those folding trailer kits. I just want the metal 4x8 frame, don't need anything else as I'm going to use U bolts to retrofit it to my port-a-chopper trailer. They sell a kit that does the exact same thing but costs $500. I could also just put my roof rack back on the car when I make runs to the lumbar yard, but the weight capacity is kind of limited. I got the Wood River cabinet makers set of planes from Woodcraft. I'd give my left nut to have a planer, a jointer, and a table saw; but I'm in a condo and don't have any place to put them. |
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Posted: 9/26/2015 10:07:50 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I got the Wood River cabinet makers set of planes from Woodcraft. I'd give my left nut to have a planer, a jointer, and a table saw; but I'm in a condo and don't have any place to put them. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I just wish I could make a square cut with a handsaw . Guys who work with nothing but hand tools amaze me. I'm thinking my next tool purchases will likely be some vintage stanley handplanes.
I did drop by a lumbar yard who specializes in hardwoods and softwoods. Talk about an eye opening experience. No way in hell am I ever buying any wood from a big box store EVER again. Their cheapest plywood was cheaper and better quality than the crap I bought at Lowes earlier this week. I need to swing by harbor freight later this coming week and buy one of those folding trailer kits. I just want the metal 4x8 frame, don't need anything else as I'm going to use U bolts to retrofit it to my port-a-chopper trailer. They sell a kit that does the exact same thing but costs $500. I could also just put my roof rack back on the car when I make runs to the lumbar yard, but the weight capacity is kind of limited. I got the Wood River cabinet makers set of planes from Woodcraft. I'd give my left nut to have a planer, a jointer, and a table saw; but I'm in a condo and don't have any place to put them. No joiner and planer? - you need to have an apprentice. Before power tools became popular in production shops during the 1800's, the masters didn't to the grunt work, they had young apprentices do that work. The book below describes the old apprentice process, and has some simple projects http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/AQ-1135.XX |
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Posted: 9/26/2015 10:30:50 PM EDT
[#40]
Yeah I've spent more time learning how to make useful boards than I have doing anything with them.
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Posted: 9/27/2015 7:07:06 AM EDT
[#41]
That's pretty much what the apprentice boys did. Its all part of the process.
Sometimes to me at least, I find that to be a relaxing, mind clearing process. Just making shavings, and getting a good straight and square edge. Also part of rehabilitating an old stanley plane from ebay or such, plus sharpening to scary sharp levels. Just better to do it on some plain wood, not a really nice figured board. Chris Schwarz wrote that another useful exercise is to make a dovetail joint every few days or so out of some cheap wood, like pine or poplar. Practice making straight saw cuts to the line. Practice fitting/paring the joints. Then date the pieces and save for a short time and you will see how your skills progress. Not a whole box, but just a corner is all that's needed. Doesn't need to be too wide either. Just wide enough for 3 or 4 pins. And if you're in a small area with no spot that is ideal for a "typical" woodshop, the handtools generall won't bother the neighbors. Your pile of wood shaving and especially sawdust will be in one small pile or area, easy to clean up as long as you don't do it right over carpeting. Start up a benchtop thickness planer or a router and run that often enough and the neighbors will probably get annoyed at you. i have heard of people setting up an off site" shop" with power tool in storage facilites. They will do the dusty and noisy powertool work there. |
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Posted: 10/21/2015 12:37:12 AM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
For those of you who are into woodworking what do your recommend as good starting out projects? I ultimately want to build furniture, but I figured I would start out small. I was thinking about making some wine boxes out of Red Oak and would do one with hand driven and set finishing nails, the other I would take a shot at doing it with hand cut dovetails (need a few tools for that though and I want to practice on some cheap softwood first). Also my main workbench with its 38" high work surface and no suitable woodworking vise isn't cutting it. Are there any good woodworking benches that can be disassembled and moved fairly easily? I was thinking a Moravian might be the ticket for filling my needs of a semi portable bench. ...the morovian would be a good candidate for you (though I haven't built one that style, ...it involves some "angled" structural members, that may be a bit more difficult to get the joinery right), ...you could build a French-style bench that is "knockdown" by having the slab top affixed to legs/frame cross rails by lag screws (holes in rear are slotted for seasonal expansion of the top), and the stretcher joinery is stub-tenons that are cinched to the legs with "bench bolts" (i.e. large bolts w/ a cylindrical nut) ...as for beginner projects,... the sky is the limit! I might suggest what I've been doing, ..in mainly honing my skills by building "shop furniture", ...build the stuff to house your ever-expanding tool collection  . for example, some projects I've done; wall-hanging saw till, wall-hanging plane till, wall-hanging clamp rack ;) you can experiment w/ various joinery for carcases/cases this way:
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Posted: 10/23/2015 7:05:46 PM EDT
[#43]
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Posted: 11/10/2015 1:03:18 AM EDT
[#44]
Holy hell I forgot how much it sucks to cut dados with a router and straight edge for 23/32 plywood one at a time (doesn't help I'm using a 1/2" bit and doing it in two passes). I've done 2....and have another 14 to go on this project plus 4 rabbets.
About to say screw this and buy a Freud 8" dado set off amazon (or get the Irwin marples one at Lowes for the same price), build another crosscut sled (or modify my stock miter gauge), and make another ZCI for it. |
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Posted: 11/10/2015 7:18:29 AM EDT
[#45]
They sell plywood specific router bits fwiw
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Posted: 11/10/2015 8:53:30 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holy hell I forgot how much it sucks to cut dados with a router and straight edge for 23/32 plywood one at a time (doesn't help I'm using a 1/2" bit and doing it in two passes). I've done 2....and have another 14 to go on this project plus 4 rabbets. About to say screw this and buy a Freud 8" dado set off amazon (or get the Irwin marples one at Lowes for the same price), build another crosscut sled (or modify my stock miter gauge), and make another ZCI for it. I use the dado set 95% of the time now. |
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Posted: 11/10/2015 11:07:34 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They sell plywood specific router bits fwiw I think I'm gonna order the Freud 8" set off amazon ($90 one). <ETA> my wife just informed me I apparently already ordered it on Sunday and it arrives tomorrow. LOL silly Amazon app.'s 1 click buying function. Better not get drunk and use that app. |
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Posted: 11/12/2015 10:46:24 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah...I tried one and it was slightly too large. Tried another that was slightly too small. Kinda gave up and went back to what I knew worked but would take longer. I think I'm gonna order the Freud 8" set off amazon ($90 one). <ETA> my wife just informed me I apparently already ordered it on Sunday and it arrives tomorrow. LOL silly Amazon app.'s 1 click buying function. Better not get drunk and use that app. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: They sell plywood specific router bits fwiw I think I'm gonna order the Freud 8" set off amazon ($90 one). <ETA> my wife just informed me I apparently already ordered it on Sunday and it arrives tomorrow. LOL silly Amazon app.'s 1 click buying function. Better not get drunk and use that app. I use that very set, works great. I did get a zero clearance insert for it as well. Don't have a crosscut sled but my wife did get me the nice Incra miter gauge so I use that for now. |
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Posted: 11/16/2015 4:56:36 PM EDT
[#49]
Hopefully finishing up my mallet tonight. Just realized I messed up my measurements with the mallet head so it will be about 1/2in shorter than I originally intended. Oh well, it was a fun project with an $8 scrap piece of walnut.
Got my table saw base/cart 1/2 done as well. Might try to knock that out as well since it'll make setup and tear down for me to do any work a lot easier since I have to put everything away when I'm done for the night. |
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Posted: 11/16/2015 7:24:04 PM EDT
[#50]
I did a bookcase out of maple as my first real project. Working on some wine racks now. I also made a garage workbench on castors so I can move it out to the middle of the flor when needed and keep it against the wall most of the time. I'm on my phone so I can't easily get pics added
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile edit: on a pc now sketchup drawing of the basic design of the bench 
bench 
razor & brush holder 
bookcase 
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