This stuff is great. Wish I knew about it years ago.  No water means no corrosion, no pressure and no vapor or cavitation unti 375*.  Jay Leno uses it and discusses it on his YouTube channel.  Mostly he uses it to eliminate corrosion.  It lasts the life of the vehicle which makes it the cheapest coolant in the long run.  

I converted to it in my old Suburban.  No more dexcool.  No more pressure or corrosion on marginal intake gaskets and heater valve.  It took about two hours of actual work but i spent extra time on it since it's such a big system with rear heat.

You must completely remove almost all the water from the system.  First I used a cheap siphon and a FloTool 16 qt drain pan from Walmart.  They recommend using a high volume, low pressure tool, such as a leaf blower, to blow out the water.  Conveniently my shop vac hose was exactly the same diameter as the radiator fill port so I switched the vacuum hose over to the exhaust side.  I placed a drain pan under and opened up a heater hose.  Next I connected a length of old garden hose to the heater hose and routed to the drain pan.  Worked great to capture the fluid with just a little splatter.  I used six gallons of prep fluid and just over three of coolant.  I put in a couple gallons and drove around a few miles after the thermostat opened with the heater on.  Flushed and repeated twice.

I picked up a spring clamp tool made by 8 mile lake for $16 made from Amazon.  So much easier than channel locks.  The old spring clamps should be more than enough on a non pressurized systems.  I also bought Evans' conversion kit.  Stickers, water % test strips and a yellow funnel that clips around the coolant jug neck.  It also clips around the port of the drain pan.  It makes putting the old fluid back in the jugs much easier.  The complete conversion cost me a little over $300.  Several times what conventional coolant costs but it should make up for several deficiencies in my GM engineered truck.  Coolant is $43 or so and prep fluid about $22.  Much cheaper than having problems with this old system.

Very interesting.  Thanks for mentioning it, I have a vehicle or two that could benefit from something like that.

Might want to read "Summary of Findings" about half way down this page.  http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/evans-npg-coolant-snake-oil-or-miracle-product.583554/

Also some good discussion here:  http://www.3si.org/forum/f11/dumping-evans-coolant-go-back-conventional-setup-206021/

And tons of discussion on this over on BITOG:  http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2930974

With today's ELCs and Ultra ELCs, there are a lot of good near lifetime type coolants.

Peak Final Charge

/thread

I'm using Peak Final Charge too but didn't know anything about waterless coolant.

Water is not the only thing that can cause "corrosion."

Merlin,

That zinc corrosion was disconcerting but probably not an issue on my suburban except on a few freeze plugs or possibly a water pump impeller.

That summary of findings is suspect because it said states that cylinder head temperatures could rise from between 115° to 1400°. That's simply not possible. Even diesel egt's max out around 1500-1600.

I won't  convert my Honda or Toyota as they are well engineered systems and coolants. The old Chevy is another story. Dexcool often equals sludge and several components in the system can barely take normal operating pressure.  I probably should've just bought a Sequoia but the Chevys just too cheap. Also not as much of a soccer mom stigma.