User Panel
[#1]
You can put wall tile directly on the drywall using mastic. Since your drywall is painted, I would scour it a bit first. Floor tile should go on backer board. Tear up the old laminate first.
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[#3]
Quoted:
You can put wall tile directly on the drywall using mastic. Since your drywall is painted, I would scour it a bit first. Floor tile should go on backer board. Tear up the old laminate first. View Quote If you are putting tile in the shower, I would not use mastic. I would put RedGard or the equivalent on the walls and then adhere the tile with latex modified thinset. I would put Ditra on the floor and then tile it. |
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[#4]
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[#5]
Thanks for the tips guys. I will start ripping everything out sometime this week. Im not sure what i will find behind that shower tub thing. Im wondering what kind of tubs i can fit there. I see no purpose having a tub i cant fit in. im too tall for this tub.
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[#6]
So i guess the first thing i should do it rip the floor up, shower/tub out, and toilet and vanity out. Take all the trim out and lay the backer board on the floor. Start with the floor and work my way up the walls. The only thing i am unsure about is the tub situation. What do you guys think is behind that insert?
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[#7]
Start with the shower. Tub or Shower is up to you, take a look into a Kerdi Shower system, If your an engineer you'll like what it has to offer.
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[#9]
Quoted:
You can put wall tile directly on the drywall using mastic. Since your drywall is painted, I would scour it a bit first. Floor tile should go on backer board. Tear up the old laminate first. View Quote OP: choose your sources carefully. the above is a recipe for bathroom disaster. for some starting points on setting tile, see http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/ and for examples of what happens when you don't follow good practice, see this zillion page thread http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=71950 ar-jedi |
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[#10]
Quoted:
If you are putting tile in the shower, I would not use mastic. I would put RedGard or the equivalent on the walls and then adhere the tile with latex modified thinset. I would put Ditra on the floor and then tile it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
You can put wall tile directly on the drywall using mastic. Since your drywall is painted, I would scour it a bit first. Floor tile should go on backer board. Tear up the old laminate first. If you are putting tile in the shower, I would not use mastic. I would put RedGard or the equivalent on the walls and then adhere the tile with latex modified thinset. I would put Ditra on the floor and then tile it. thank you. ar-jedi |
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[#11]
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[#12]
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[#13]
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[#14]
Got it so the drywall will have to go. Do i use backer board?
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[#15]
Quoted:
Got it so the drywall will have to go. Do i use backer board? View Quote for the overall bathroom there is a specific type of drywall available which is commonly called "greenboard". use that for the overall bathroom as it is moisture and mildew resistant. if you can, use the 5/8" thick type greenboard on the ceiling as greenboard is more sag prone than normal sheetrock (gypsum) drywall. greenboard can be used behind where there will be no direct contact with water. for the shower stall there are several types of products which are generically called "concrete backer board" but come in a myriad of different trade names: Hardiboard, Wonderboard, Durarock, Durarock II, and others come to mind. this material is used behind where there will be direct contact with water, such as tiled surfaces in the shower enclosure. your next biggest decision is the shower pan: fiberglass, or DIY-tiled. i implore you to research the DIY-tiled way for a WEEK before starting in on it; in time, most DIY-tiled shower floors leak and then rot the underlying subfloor -- because there are a million and one areas that need detailed attention when putting the tile down. for this reason, you may want to get a fiberglass shower pan (Mustee DURABASE, etc) -- doing so removes 99% of the risk involved with ending up with a watertight shower installation. ar-jedi |
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[#17]
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[#18]
Minor hijack-
arjedi: Can you post some closeup pics of how you did the window trim? I'm going to be building a house in the near future and plan to do something similar with stained and varnished pine trim. I really like the looks of yours and was planning to do something similar. Thanks. |
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[#20]
Quoted:
I have that tub/shower contraption. I hate it. View Quote Owens Corning OC-60. Bathtub unit with walls. I used to fix them all the time. I am surprised the floor hasn't cracked yet. That was a common problem for that model. The reason they put them in is a plumber could easily carry the bathtub and wall unit up by himself. Also if it were damaged and need replacement, no walls needed to be ripped out for a new unit. The replacement would go though any standard door. |
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[#21]
Quoted:
the window trim is as straightforward as it gets. if needed, build out (in?) the window/door frame as normal using primed pine; it should end flush with the drywall. the trim is outset on the buildout pine about 3/16". the trim itself is primed 1x4; the lower corners are mitered, and the top is "capped" with about 1/2" overhang on each side. you can have 0" overhang, or a little like i have, or a lot, or you can angle the overhang. -- it simply depends on what look you are going for. this is a 1930's carriage house upstairs, in a very natural setting, so it should look more or less "period correct" when all is said and done. in a different structure, with different (perhaps more contemporary) setting, you would go another way. looking through my big bundle of pictures, i don't really have a good closeup of the trim itself -- but i have a few where the trimwork is captured somewhat. ps if you criticize my choice of beer the quality of my answers will decline markedly... pps don't put the handrails on until you move everything upstairs. ar-jedi http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36334-1/DSCN8069.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36376-1/DSCN8077.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36364-1/DSCN8064.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36577-1/DSCN8146.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36493-1/DSCN8150.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34661-1/DSCN7740.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34676-1/DSCN7731.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37203-1/DSCN8294.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37101-1/DSCN8296.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Minor hijack- arjedi: Can you post some closeup pics of how you did the window trim? I'm going to be building a house in the near future and plan to do something similar with stained and varnished pine trim. I really like the looks of yours and was planning to do something similar. Thanks. the window trim is as straightforward as it gets. if needed, build out (in?) the window/door frame as normal using primed pine; it should end flush with the drywall. the trim is outset on the buildout pine about 3/16". the trim itself is primed 1x4; the lower corners are mitered, and the top is "capped" with about 1/2" overhang on each side. you can have 0" overhang, or a little like i have, or a lot, or you can angle the overhang. -- it simply depends on what look you are going for. this is a 1930's carriage house upstairs, in a very natural setting, so it should look more or less "period correct" when all is said and done. in a different structure, with different (perhaps more contemporary) setting, you would go another way. looking through my big bundle of pictures, i don't really have a good closeup of the trim itself -- but i have a few where the trimwork is captured somewhat. ps if you criticize my choice of beer the quality of my answers will decline markedly... pps don't put the handrails on until you move everything upstairs. ar-jedi http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36334-1/DSCN8069.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36376-1/DSCN8077.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36364-1/DSCN8064.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36577-1/DSCN8146.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36493-1/DSCN8150.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34661-1/DSCN7740.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34676-1/DSCN7731.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37203-1/DSCN8294.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37101-1/DSCN8296.JPG That's what I wanted. Thanks. |
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[#22]
Quoted:
the window trim is as straightforward as it gets. if needed, build out (in?) the window/door frame as normal using primed pine; it should end flush with the drywall. the trim is outset on the buildout pine about 3/16". the trim itself is primed 1x4; the lower corners are mitered, and the top is "capped" with about 1/2" overhang on each side. you can have 0" overhang, or a little like i have, or a lot, or you can angle the overhang. -- it simply depends on what look you are going for. this is a 1930's carriage house upstairs, in a very natural setting, so it should look more or less "period correct" when all is said and done. in a different structure, with different (perhaps more contemporary) setting, you would go another way. looking through my big bundle of pictures, i don't really have a good closeup of the trim itself -- but i have a few where the trimwork is captured somewhat. ps if you criticize my choice of beer the quality of my answers will decline markedly... pps don't put the handrails on until you move everything upstairs. ar-jedi http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36334-1/DSCN8069.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36376-1/DSCN8077.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36364-1/DSCN8064.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36577-1/DSCN8146.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36493-1/DSCN8150.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34661-1/DSCN7740.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34676-1/DSCN7731.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37203-1/DSCN8294.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37101-1/DSCN8296.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Minor hijack- arjedi: Can you post some closeup pics of how you did the window trim? I'm going to be building a house in the near future and plan to do something similar with stained and varnished pine trim. I really like the looks of yours and was planning to do something similar. Thanks. the window trim is as straightforward as it gets. if needed, build out (in?) the window/door frame as normal using primed pine; it should end flush with the drywall. the trim is outset on the buildout pine about 3/16". the trim itself is primed 1x4; the lower corners are mitered, and the top is "capped" with about 1/2" overhang on each side. you can have 0" overhang, or a little like i have, or a lot, or you can angle the overhang. -- it simply depends on what look you are going for. this is a 1930's carriage house upstairs, in a very natural setting, so it should look more or less "period correct" when all is said and done. in a different structure, with different (perhaps more contemporary) setting, you would go another way. looking through my big bundle of pictures, i don't really have a good closeup of the trim itself -- but i have a few where the trimwork is captured somewhat. ps if you criticize my choice of beer the quality of my answers will decline markedly... pps don't put the handrails on until you move everything upstairs. ar-jedi http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36334-1/DSCN8069.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36376-1/DSCN8077.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36364-1/DSCN8064.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36577-1/DSCN8146.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/36493-1/DSCN8150.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34661-1/DSCN7740.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/34676-1/DSCN7731.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37203-1/DSCN8294.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/37101-1/DSCN8296.JPG That looks great. The only thing I would recommend would be a different shower base. If you used mortar under the Mustee (flower petal design) base you used it will be fine. I find a lot of those bases crack within 5 to 10 years of normal use. My choice of a base was always Swan. It had a cobblestone appearance and held up much better. |
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[#23]
Quoted:
That looks great. The only thing I would recommend would be a different shower base. If you used mortar under the Mustee (flower petal design) base you used it will be fine. I find a lot of those bases crack within 5 to 10 years of normal use. My choice of a base was always Swan. It had a cobblestone appearance and held up much better. View Quote i used a mortar slump under the base. it is set well. in fact, until you mentioned it i didn't realize that folks use a plastic shower base *without* setting it in mortar. ar-jedi |
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[#24]
Thanks. Those pictures make the vision ten times clearer. I like the look of the shower being all tiles though.
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[#25]
Quoted:
i used a mortar slump under the base. it is set well. in fact, until you mentioned it i didn't realize that folks use a plastic shower base *without* setting it in mortar. ar-jedi View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks great. The only thing I would recommend would be a different shower base. If you used mortar under the Mustee (flower petal design) base you used it will be fine. I find a lot of those bases crack within 5 to 10 years of normal use. My choice of a base was always Swan. It had a cobblestone appearance and held up much better. i used a mortar slump under the base. it is set well. in fact, until you mentioned it i didn't realize that folks use a plastic shower base *without* setting it in mortar. ar-jedi You are smart. I made a decent living repairing cracks in those. You were smart to use the mortar under it. My customers were mainly people who bought a track home from a builder. Plumbers never did take the time to set them right. |
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[#26]
I dont want to go with a pre molded shower pan because i have to make it so my son can easily access the shower from a wheel chair. I think a small curb would be better. With a seat built in.
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[#28]
Just verifying. . . Take the drywall out and put back board up correct?
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[#29]
Quoted:
Just verifying. . . Take the drywall out and put back board up correct? View Quote You can use a cement backer or Kerdi board on the walls. Just keep in mind that cement backer board isn't damp proof so you'll need to use red gaurd, a similar product or kerdi on the walls in the "shower area"... I don't know if your state allows 1.5" drain lines in a shower so you may have to deal with that if you plan to get a permit... My personal opinion is that a 1.5" drain is ok when using the currently allowed mixing valves. If you use two shower mixers then a 2" drain is probably a better option because of the larger free area on the drain grate, or use trough drain. Schluter products are fantastic if you can get the cost within your budget. For professional tile installer it isn't a big deal if they have two thirds of a roll of kerdi remaining after an install because they'll use it on the next project but for a DYI guy the cost can add up. |
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[#30]
I started yesterday and ripped the entire bathroom out. I'm going to use backboard for all the walls. I framed the shower in and ran into my first issue. I was not being careful and knocked the blend valve off. I am going to cut some pipe and replace the entire thing. Also sloping the bedding mortar isn't as easy as it looks! I will post up pictures soon.
Another question I have is in regards to the ceiling. Do I use green board or backer board? |
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[#31]
I would use water resistant drywall on the ceiling in the shower unless you are planning to tile the ceiling.
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[#32]
Quoted:
You are smart. I made a decent living repairing cracks in those. You were smart to use the mortar under it. My customers were mainly people who bought a track home from a builder. Plumbers never did take the time to set them right. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks great. The only thing I would recommend would be a different shower base. If you used mortar under the Mustee (flower petal design) base you used it will be fine. I find a lot of those bases crack within 5 to 10 years of normal use. My choice of a base was always Swan. It had a cobblestone appearance and held up much better. i used a mortar slump under the base. it is set well. in fact, until you mentioned it i didn't realize that folks use a plastic shower base *without* setting it in mortar. ar-jedi You are smart. I made a decent living repairing cracks in those. You were smart to use the mortar under it. My customers were mainly people who bought a track home from a builder. Plumbers never did take the time to set them right. Quick clarification please.... Is a 10lb bag of mortar, spread out fairly evenly, enough or do you really load it up under there ? ( Leveling it out either way of course ) |
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[#33]
Quoted:
Quick clarification please.... Is a 10lb bag of mortar, spread out fairly evenly, enough or do you really load it up under there ? ( Leveling it out either way of course ) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks great. The only thing I would recommend would be a different shower base. If you used mortar under the Mustee (flower petal design) base you used it will be fine. I find a lot of those bases crack within 5 to 10 years of normal use. My choice of a base was always Swan. It had a cobblestone appearance and held up much better. i used a mortar slump under the base. it is set well. in fact, until you mentioned it i didn't realize that folks use a plastic shower base *without* setting it in mortar. ar-jedi You are smart. I made a decent living repairing cracks in those. You were smart to use the mortar under it. My customers were mainly people who bought a track home from a builder. Plumbers never did take the time to set them right. Quick clarification please.... Is a 10lb bag of mortar, spread out fairly evenly, enough or do you really load it up under there ? ( Leveling it out either way of course ) Load it up, I use deck mud, 4 parts sand 1 part portland and a little water. You want to be able to ball it up in your hand and it not fall apart, like a well packed snowball. |
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[#34]
Thanks for the info.
Thankfully, I'm familiar with the consistency of the mortar and just how sparingly the water needs to be added. |
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[#35]
Quoted:
I started yesterday and ripped the entire bathroom out. I'm going to use backboard for all the walls. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
I started yesterday and ripped the entire bathroom out. I'm going to use backboard for all the walls. are you going to tile every wall in the bathroom? if not, i would highly advise against using backerboard everywhere unless you REALLY like buttering rough joints and skim-coating every square inch of the walls and ceiling. backerboard is not smooth like drywall, and you can't just brush or roll latex paint on it and call it a day. moreover, most backerboard does not have an edge bevel for setting tape into, so you are going to be seeing every butt joint seam in the room either sooner or later. finally, backerboard is hella-heavy compared to normal sheetrock or greenboard, and therefore usually comes in smaller size 3 ft x 5 ft panels at 1/2" thickness. just remember, somewhere along the line when doing the walls you are going to have to transition from backerboard to drywall, and hence keeping both the same thickness works best (1/2" and 1/2", for example). drop the greenboard just inside the last tiled area, and you'll have a seamless transition without any telltale artifacts. the shower surround below shows how to do this with the topmost row of tile; it's half on backer and half on greenboard. Quoted:
Another question I have is in regards to the ceiling. Do I use green board or backer board? refer back to http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/1772597_Bathroom_Remodel_DIY.html&page=1#i54829792 for the overall bathroom there is a specific type of drywall available which is commonly called "greenboard". use that for the overall bathroom as it is moisture and mildew resistant. if you can, use the 5/8" thick type greenboard on the ceiling as greenboard is more sag prone than normal sheetrock (gypsum) drywall. greenboard can be used behind where there will be no direct contact with water. for the shower stall there are several types of products which are generically called "concrete backer board" but come in a myriad of different trade names: Hardiboard, Wonderboard, Durarock, Durarock II, and others come to mind. this material is used behind where there will be direct contact with water, such as tiled surfaces in the shower enclosure. see all the purple stuff below? that's greenboard. USE IT EVERYWHERE but the shower enclosure. (this particular product is called "Purple XP" --> link) see the stuff maked "Durrock Cement Board Next Gen"? that's backerboard. USE IT ONLY in the shower enclosure. ar-jedi |
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[#36]
Quoted:
Quick clarification please.... Is a 10lb bag of mortar, spread out fairly evenly, enough or do you really load it up under there ? ( Leveling it out either way of course ) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That looks great. The only thing I would recommend would be a different shower base. If you used mortar under the Mustee (flower petal design) base you used it will be fine. I find a lot of those bases crack within 5 to 10 years of normal use. My choice of a base was always Swan. It had a cobblestone appearance and held up much better. i used a mortar slump under the base. it is set well. in fact, until you mentioned it i didn't realize that folks use a plastic shower base *without* setting it in mortar. ar-jedi You are smart. I made a decent living repairing cracks in those. You were smart to use the mortar under it. My customers were mainly people who bought a track home from a builder. Plumbers never did take the time to set them right. Quick clarification please.... Is a 10lb bag of mortar, spread out fairly evenly, enough or do you really load it up under there ? ( Leveling it out either way of course ) You should be fine with that. Most of the ones I repaired had a lot of squeaking when in use. I mean squeaks that could be heard in the next room. |
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[#37]
All walls in the bathroom will be tiled. I used cement board on all the walls. I am trying to decide if i want to leave the current ceiling (nothing wrong with it) or do it over just because im already balls deep. The plumbing in the shower really screwed me over. I am on a extremely tight budget and the end goal is to have a kids wheel chair size accessible shower.
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[#39]
Fuck brother you're in to deep. That is not the way to build a curb, niche or shower for that matter. Stop and do some research. Where is the liner?
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[#41]
This is where I got the information for the Niche
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/diy-rennovation-project-how-to-build-a-shower-niche-apartment-therapy-tutorials-200386 |
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[#42]
I've been building custom showers for years, stop now and figure out the correct way to build them before it cost you even more money down the road or someone in your house gets sick from black mold. The way you're constructing that shower WILL leak and it won't take long.
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[#43]
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[#44]
Ok, well besides the niche what is wrong?
I got backer board everywhere, a slopped mortar bed, adjustable drain, and lots of sealant. |
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[#46]
Needs preslope, liner and mud bed. Backer don't go on until preslope and liner are in, then you do the mud bed.
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[#47]
Quoted:
Needs preslope, liner and mud bed. Backer don't go on until preslope and liner are in, then you do the mud bed. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Needs preslope, liner and mud bed. Backer don't go on until preslope and liner are in, then you do the mud bed. again, the Kerdi system does away with the need to pre-slope a floor or install a traditional pan. KERDI has been around about 25 years, it's a PROVEN system and wasn't tough to install (my first time doing ANY tile, EVER*) *but I am a Commercial Construction professional who has been renovating and remodeling for 25 years Quoted:
Ok, well besides the niche what is wrong? I got backer board everywhere, a slopped mortar bed, adjustable drain, and lots of sealant. the Hardie cement backer you used will also SUCK all the moisture out of your thinset (MUCH more so than Durock type cement backers), actually creating a weaker bond for the tile. (make sure you completely saturate the board before you apply the thinset.. ) |
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[#48]
Quoted:
Needs preslope, liner and mud bed. Backer don't go on until preslope and liner are in, then you do the mud bed. View Quote What is the preslope? It has the mud bed and I was told I didn't need a liner since the floor was concrete. The mud bed is all angled and slopped toward the drain. When I lay tile does the drain sit on top of below or even with the tile. |
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[#49]
Quoted:
again, the Kerdi system does away with the need to pre-slope a floor or install a traditional pan. KERDI has been around about 25 years, it's a PROVEN system and wasn't tough to install (my first time doing ANY tile, EVER*) *but I am a Commercial Construction professional who has been renovating and remodeling for 25 years the Hardie cement backer you used will also SUCK all the moisture out of your thinset (MUCH more so than Durock type cement backers), actually creating a weaker bond for the tile. (make sure you completely saturate the board before you apply the thinset.. ) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Needs preslope, liner and mud bed. Backer don't go on until preslope and liner are in, then you do the mud bed. again, the Kerdi system does away with the need to pre-slope a floor or install a traditional pan. KERDI has been around about 25 years, it's a PROVEN system and wasn't tough to install (my first time doing ANY tile, EVER*) *but I am a Commercial Construction professional who has been renovating and remodeling for 25 years Quoted:
Ok, well besides the niche what is wrong? I got backer board everywhere, a slopped mortar bed, adjustable drain, and lots of sealant. the Hardie cement backer you used will also SUCK all the moisture out of your thinset (MUCH more so than Durock type cement backers), actually creating a weaker bond for the tile. (make sure you completely saturate the board before you apply the thinset.. ) Saturate it with what? |
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