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Posted: 2/28/2015 2:42:26 PM EDT
[#1]
The right way would be to saw cut a channel in the slab and run conduit underground to add your needed circuits.
But a flat cord ran under carpet with pad might not be a horrible way to go, if your carpet if stretched (not glued) you could use a fish tape to run wire underneath it to the wall |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 3:24:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The right way would be to saw cut a channel in the slab and run conduit underground to add your needed circuits. But a flat cord ran under carpet with pad might not be a horrible way to go, if your carpet if stretched (not glued) you could use a fish tape to run wire underneath it to the wall IDK if they still sell that flat under carpet cord, but that would be the easy way. You would still need to surface mount the outlet box, unless you got one of the in floor pvc round boxes. You would still need to cut concrete for that. Any way to set a fake 6x6 beam floor to ceiling and feed from above? |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 3:56:00 PM EDT
[#3]
The problem with running cords under carpet or rugs is they can built up heat and lead to fires.
Do tons of people do it everyday without a problem.... yes. Do you want to take that chance? They make cord covers that lay on top of the carpet but those even say for low voltage. Likely the safest way is to cut a channel and run conduit as mentioned above... other option is to change the floorplan or add overhead lighting to compensate. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 3:57:37 PM EDT
[#4]
WHAT KIND OF SLAB?
If that slab is a post tension slab, or you have to idea, DO NOT CUT INTO THE SLAB until you figure it out. If it is post tension or you don't know, you will need ground penetrating radar or an x-ray done to see where the wires are. If you cut or drill, you could potentially cut through one of them and have a huge mess on your hands. Think cutting a cable on a suspension bridge. A snapped tendon could cause serious injury to you or the slab. And then the slab is shot and you now have a major foundation issue that is not a cheap fix and you must disclose if you try to sell it. Not sure when you house was built, but they became widely used starting in the 60's and are used when there us expansive and compressive soil conditions that are prevalent in California, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas, but they are in many other areas. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 4:39:26 PM EDT
[#5]
Drywall? Make some cuts and do it right. Run Romex from the box, through the attic, and put it in the wall. It is not that hard to mud it back up and repaint.
Do it right. Call a pro if you don't want to listen to this reasonable, expert advice. Don't pull carpet, don't touch the slab. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 5:13:40 PM EDT
[#6]
I am aware of the dangers of cutting into a post tension slab but thank you for the warning. While I'm not positive, I did pay very close attention to the slab type and saw no indication of PT construction however I will have it confirmed before I do any cutting just because it is so common around here. It was built in 07.
Thinking fishing flat large wire is the best bet until I have the time and money to completely tear it up, do a conduit channel and floor outlet. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 5:21:45 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Drywall? Make some cuts and do it right. Run Romex from the box, through the attic, and put it in the wall. It is not that hard to mud it back up and repaint. Do it right. Call a pro if you don't want to listen to this reasonable, expert advice. Don't pull carpet, don't touch the slab. Point of clarification, there are lots and lots of outlets around the rooms but nothing reachable in the center of the room where couch and chair are. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 6:01:39 PM EDT
[#8]
Do you have to have 120 VAC, or would low voltage do? There are several flat-wire, under carpet products for low voltage use. If you are looking for lamps/lighting, that may be an option.
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Posted: 2/28/2015 6:54:04 PM EDT
[#9]
Hmmm. All the power adapters and lights are 120vac. Could look at some other options for lights which might be OK. I'm really not concerned with heat buildup.
Unfortunately it is not suited for a beam from the ceiling. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 8:05:48 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hmmm. All the power adapters and lights are 120vac. Could look at some other options for lights which might be OK. I'm really not concerned with heat buildup. Unfortunately it is not suited for a beam from the ceiling. Too bad, I've done the beam thing twice for customers, looked pretty cheezy on paper. Finished out looked fine. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 8:15:23 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hmmm. All the power adapters and lights are 120vac. Could look at some other options for lights which might be OK. I'm really not concerned with heat buildup. Unfortunately it is not suited for a beam from the ceiling. There are a couple of Flat Wire 120vac products out there, but I do not believe any are UL approved for residential use. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 8:29:10 PM EDT
[#12]
You know, the more I think about it, the more I just want to drill through the concrete and run the conduit under the slab to recessed floor outlets. Going to be $$ though and just not in the budget right now.
Good idea on the flat wire 120v stuff. I have to imagine there is or will be some UL approved products out there for an interim solution. Will think some more on it. Thanks for the input everyone! 
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Posted: 3/2/2015 1:37:54 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The right way would be to saw cut a channel in the slab and run conduit underground to add your needed circuits. But a flat cord ran under carpet with pad might not be a horrible way to go, if your carpet if stretched (not glued) you could use a fish tape to run wire underneath it to the wall ^ This. |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 4:08:13 PM EDT
[#14]
Distance from exterior wall to desired location?
Slab details? Digging outside and then boring under the slab is often less work than actually cutting a trench in the concrete. You do have to spot the location you cross under the exterior wall to intersect and pick up a feed. It makes a huge dust mess to score a slab and then remove a trench. 3/4 in rigid is often required. |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 5:03:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Just re-arrange the furniture. "Ideal" location needs to accommodate power concerns, so yours is not ideal. |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 11:12:29 PM EDT
[#16]
Twelve feet from edge of slab to exterior wall (roof deeply overhangs back porch.) Call it ten feet from side wall to almost center of room where outlets would be placed.
Reinforced concrete slab. Would a 3/4" channel in a 6 or 8 inch thick slab weaken it enough to be a crack nexus? It is a stress riser but I can't see it mattering given the insignificant load through that area. There appears to have been virtually no settling of what the slab was built on. |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 11:14:09 PM EDT
[#17]
I wouldn't let an oversight in construction dictate my use of the room hence wanting to add the extra outlets.
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Posted: 3/3/2015 1:18:29 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Twelve feet from edge of slab to exterior wall (roof deeply overhangs back porch.) Call it ten feet from side wall to almost center of room where outlets would be placed. Reinforced concrete slab. Would a 3/4" channel in a 6 or 8 inch thick slab weaken it enough to be a crack nexus? It is a stress riser but I can't see it mattering given the insignificant load through that area. There appears to have been virtually no settling of what the slab was built on. Not enough to matter. It is the mess of the concrete dust that is usually the problem. |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 9:21:03 PM EDT
[#19]
Most resi. slabs are 4" around here. Even then you can cut into that deep enough to lay a 1/2" conduit.
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