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Posted: 11/25/2014 2:02:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Can you post some pics? That would help.
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Posted: 11/25/2014 6:27:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you post some pics? That would help. I'll have to do it after I get home from work. |
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Posted: 11/27/2014 11:02:27 PM EDT
[#3]
Sorry I took so long. Just life getting in the way.
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Just the regulator free-floating, not attached to anything. There is a nearby 4x4 that supports the deck that I was thinking of attaching it to and then getting a flexible hose to go from there to the tank. Worth the effort? A danger to myself and others? |
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Posted: 11/27/2014 11:07:01 PM EDT
[#4]
That hard copper line and tank fitting will/is supporting it fine.
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Posted: 11/28/2014 10:33:40 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That hard copper line and tank fitting will/is supporting it fine. Any reasonable place to start looking for where it went through 15lbs of propane in 24hrs? Just tighten up the connections? |
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Posted: 11/29/2014 4:04:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any reasonable place to start looking for where it went through 15lbs of propane in 24hrs? Just tighten up the connections? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
That hard copper line and tank fitting will/is supporting it fine. Any reasonable place to start looking for where it went through 15lbs of propane in 24hrs? Just tighten up the connections? Stop stop stop!!! You NEED to know where that propane is going right now! The reason is, propane is heavier than air (as opposed to natural gas which is lighter than air). That's what makes propane more dangerous than natural gas. It pools in low spots waiting for an ignition source. If the propane is leaking outside, you should be safe....but of course you need it fixed. If it's leaking inside, that could be really bad. Get a squirt bottle of soapy water and spray it on all the connections. Where you find bubbles...there's your leak. 15 lbs in 24 hrs is a LOT. |
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Posted: 11/29/2014 9:45:17 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stop stop stop!!! You NEED to know where that propane is going right now! The reason is, propane is heavier than air (as opposed to natural gas which is lighter than air). That's what makes propane more dangerous than natural gas. It pools in low spots waiting for an ignition source. If the propane is leaking outside, you should be safe....but of course you need it fixed. If it's leaking inside, that could be really bad. Get a squirt bottle of soapy water and spray it on all the connections. Where you find bubbles...there's your leak. 15 lbs in 24 hrs is a LOT. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That hard copper line and tank fitting will/is supporting it fine. Any reasonable place to start looking for where it went through 15lbs of propane in 24hrs? Just tighten up the connections? Stop stop stop!!! You NEED to know where that propane is going right now! The reason is, propane is heavier than air (as opposed to natural gas which is lighter than air). That's what makes propane more dangerous than natural gas. It pools in low spots waiting for an ignition source. If the propane is leaking outside, you should be safe....but of course you need it fixed. If it's leaking inside, that could be really bad. Get a squirt bottle of soapy water and spray it on all the connections. Where you find bubbles...there's your leak. 15 lbs in 24 hrs is a LOT. My exact phrase. There was no inside leak, I checked that when I first hooked up the bottle (that and it didn't blow up). |
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Posted: 11/29/2014 9:56:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stop stop stop!!! You NEED to know where that propane is going right now! The reason is, propane is heavier than air (as opposed to natural gas which is lighter than air). That's what makes propane more dangerous than natural gas. It pools in low spots waiting for an ignition source. If the propane is leaking outside, you should be safe....but of course you need it fixed. If it's leaking inside, that could be really bad. Get a squirt bottle of soapy water and spray it on all the connections. Where you find bubbles...there's your leak. 15 lbs in 24 hrs is a LOT. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That hard copper line and tank fitting will/is supporting it fine. Any reasonable place to start looking for where it went through 15lbs of propane in 24hrs? Just tighten up the connections? Stop stop stop!!! You NEED to know where that propane is going right now! The reason is, propane is heavier than air (as opposed to natural gas which is lighter than air). That's what makes propane more dangerous than natural gas. It pools in low spots waiting for an ignition source. If the propane is leaking outside, you should be safe....but of course you need it fixed. If it's leaking inside, that could be really bad. Get a squirt bottle of soapy water and spray it on all the connections. Where you find bubbles...there's your leak. 15 lbs in 24 hrs is a LOT. Wow! That's almost four gallons of LP. I'm suspicious of the installation. A pro wouldn't put paste on flare or compression fittings... OP, while you're checking for leaks, check the vent on the regulator too. Don't get soap in the vent, sniff or apply soap to your finger and place it at the surface of the vent hole. With that large of a leak you should be able to smell the source. It could also be a defective valve at the heater but if the garage is closed you should be able to smell the gas. ETA- OP, you type faster ^^^ 
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Posted: 11/29/2014 3:57:23 PM EDT
[#9]
Only taper pipe thread fittings need dope.
It will cause leaks on flare and gasketed fittings. The threads on those are machine threads and are NOT sealed. |
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Posted: 11/30/2014 8:12:38 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only taper pipe thread fittings need dope. It will cause leaks on flare and gasketed fittings. The threads on those are machine threads and are NOT sealed. Okay, so you are recommending removing the tape? I already removed it from the fitting on the tank side (I knew it didn't need to go there). Or should I say . . . remove the tape that is on the flare fitting on the copper tubing. It should stay on the fittings that connect to the regulator? Asking as I tightened the fittings yesterday and tried to get the heater to start up and it wouldn't even light the pilot. No gas smell around the fittings outside. |
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Posted: 12/1/2014 11:14:29 AM EDT
[#11]
Use soapy water on all connections to find possible leak. 4 gallons propane in 24 hours sounds about right.
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Posted: 12/1/2014 11:42:06 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use soapy water on all connections to find possible leak. 4 gallons propane in 24 hours sounds about right. For what? It isn't like I ran the heater at full blast for 24 hrs. |
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Posted: 12/1/2014 5:54:42 PM EDT
[#13]
NVM wrong thread
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Posted: 12/1/2014 7:01:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay, so you are recommending removing the tape? I already removed it from the fitting on the tank side (I knew it didn't need to go there). Or should I say . . . remove the tape that is on the flare fitting on the copper tubing. It should stay on the fittings that connect to the regulator? Asking as I tightened the fittings yesterday and tried to get the heater to start up and it wouldn't even light the pilot. No gas smell around the fittings outside. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Only taper pipe thread fittings need dope. It will cause leaks on flare and gasketed fittings. The threads on those are machine threads and are NOT sealed. Okay, so you are recommending removing the tape? I already removed it from the fitting on the tank side (I knew it didn't need to go there). Or should I say . . . remove the tape that is on the flare fitting on the copper tubing. It should stay on the fittings that connect to the regulator? Asking as I tightened the fittings yesterday and tried to get the heater to start up and it wouldn't even light the pilot. No gas smell around the fittings outside. Remove anything that is not on a tapered pipe fitting. Flare fittings rely on metal to metal deformation to seal. Gasket fittings rely on the gasket. Getting junk between parts that does not belong there can prevent a seal from forming. |
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Posted: 12/2/2014 8:00:56 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Asking as I tightened the fittings yesterday and tried to get the heater to start up and it wouldn't even light the pilot. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Only taper pipe thread fittings need dope. It will cause leaks on flare and gasketed fittings. The threads on those are machine threads and are NOT sealed. Asking as I tightened the fittings yesterday and tried to get the heater to start up and it wouldn't even light the pilot. It will take time to purge the air from the line, that's why the heater wouldn't light right away. |
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Posted: 12/2/2014 10:19:34 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It will take time to purge the air from the line, that's why the heater wouldn't light right away. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Only taper pipe thread fittings need dope. It will cause leaks on flare and gasketed fittings. The threads on those are machine threads and are NOT sealed. Asking as I tightened the fittings yesterday and tried to get the heater to start up and it wouldn't even light the pilot. It will take time to purge the air from the line, that's why the heater wouldn't light right away. Yes, it took about 10 minutes before. I spent a good 30 minutes holding down that stupid knob. I will have to disassemble the regulator/tank/compression fitting and thoroughly clean it and re-tape only the fittings that need it. |
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Posted: 12/2/2014 10:47:25 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Remove anything that is not on a tapered pipe fitting. Flare fittings rely on metal to metal deformation to seal. Gasket fittings rely on the gasket. Getting junk between parts that does not belong there can prevent a seal from forming. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Only taper pipe thread fittings need dope. It will cause leaks on flare and gasketed fittings. The threads on those are machine threads and are NOT sealed. Okay, so you are recommending removing the tape? I already removed it from the fitting on the tank side (I knew it didn't need to go there). Or should I say . . . remove the tape that is on the flare fitting on the copper tubing. It should stay on the fittings that connect to the regulator? Asking as I tightened the fittings yesterday and tried to get the heater to start up and it wouldn't even light the pilot. No gas smell around the fittings outside. Remove anything that is not on a tapered pipe fitting. Flare fittings rely on metal to metal deformation to seal. Gasket fittings rely on the gasket. Getting junk between parts that does not belong there can prevent a seal from forming. Tonight I was finally able to get out and get this completely taken care of: Brought the regulator and all parts that I could disassemble into the garage and cleaned the massed thread tape off. Re-taped the threads going into the regulator (not gasketed or flared). Tightened the fitting in the shop, then took them out and re-assembled everything. It took about 30 seconds for the pilot to light. While I was standing there with the spray bottle of soap in hand I decided to double check the connection at the heater. It bubbled around the flare connection.  And I had checked it before.
All tight, no more bubbles. I will turn off the tank overnight . . . no need to tempt fate. |
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