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Posted: 11/19/2014 2:54:32 AM EDT
[#1]
Ask DrFrige (no "D" in name). He's a professional at this stuff.
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Posted: 11/19/2014 5:07:16 PM EDT
[#2]
I have no idea how to do that or do it in a timely fashion.
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Posted: 11/19/2014 5:15:07 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have no idea how to do that or do it in a timely fashion. Usually as simple as the "refrigerator start relay" Google the symptoms of a bad refrigerator start relay If yes, Locate yours and remove it Buy it online from one of the appliance parts .coms When it arrives, take the 3 minutes to install it. Profit. |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 5:50:00 PM EDT
[#4]
cheap "fix" attempt
http://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO810-START-Hard-Start/dp/B00A8O0E5Y as long as it isn't loss of freon, siezed compressor or iced over parts, this should get it running again. had one blow out pretty soon after the warranty died, and this fixed it for another 12 years. |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 6:51:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have no idea how to do that or do it in a timely fashion. I have IMed him with the URL to this thread. $10.95, please. |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 2:04:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have IMed him with the URL to this thread. $10.95, please. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I have no idea how to do that or do it in a timely fashion. I have IMed him with the URL to this thread. $10.95, please. OK Trollslayer... few questions Open the freezer door, do you hear the (Evaporator) fan INSIDE the freezer? Do you see any frost on the back wall of the freezer? Pull the refrigerator out from the wall, do you hear, see, feel the (Condenser) fan underneath working? What model do you have (need the complete model number from inside the fresh food section) |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 2:22:41 AM EDT
[#7]
This has been a head ache of sizable proportions. I would suggest everyone here consider the consequences of losing your refrigerator. What I did got us "over the hump" and we are "up and running" again.
I got all my coolers and filled them with a selection of more expensive, less perishable food items, then layered them in ice. I had to throw away hundreds of dollars in defrosted food for which I had no storage space. I went to Lowes's and purchased a small refrigerator. It is made by Whirlpool and cost more than I wanted to spend but it was in stock and it seems decent. I threw it in my truck and drove home. <---Actually having it in stock was hugely important to me. No one offers same day delivery, so I did it myself. I installed it in the garage. It fit in my available space perfectly. I took all the remaining items off my kitchen counters and put them in the new frig. I will go refrigerator shopping this weekend with the wife. The selection is bewildering. We want an all-white, 25 cu ft refrigerator with "French doors". On these units, the freezer is usually a large, pull-out drawer beneath the refrigerated section. Even with that much info, the selection still boggles the mind. Here's an interesting circumstance - stainless steel finish has almost completely taken over the refrigerator marketplace. If you want a white, you may have to wait 7 to 14 days to get it. Another factoid - many stainless steel refrigerators are only stainless on the doors. The sidewalls can be grey or black paint. If you can see the sidewalls after installation, shop very carefully. |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 2:27:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks Frank! OK Trollslayer... few questions Open the freezer door, do you hear the (Evaporator) fan INSIDE the freezer? Yes, but it's blowing ambient temperature air. Do you see any frost on the back wall of the freezer? No, by the time we noticed the trouble, everything had started to defrost. I unplugged and replugged it in last night to see if it would re-start properly and provide cool air. It did not. No cooling observed, no frost, nada. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall, do you hear, see, feel the (Condenser) fan underneath working? Yes, there is an ~8" diameter fan pulling air thru a cooling coil. What model do you have (need the complete model number from inside the fresh food section). GE Profile model no. - PFSF5NFWAWW After it ran for a while, I was expecting to find some hot copper tubing in the refrigeration unit underneath the but everything was just ambient temperature. The "inverter compressor emb" (item 725, $590) and the "condenser" (item 730, $335) were ambient temperature, too. Link to ereplacementparts.com |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 2:43:38 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: After it ran for a while, I was expecting to find some hot copper tubing in the refrigeration unit underneath the but everything was just ambient temperature. The "inverter compressor emb" and the "condenser" were ambient temperature, too. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Thanks Frank! OK Trollslayer... few questions Open the freezer door, do you hear the (Evaporator) fan INSIDE the freezer? Yes, but it's blowing ambient temperature air. Do you see any frost on the back wall of the freezer? No, by the time we noticed the trouble, everything had started to defrost. I unplugged and replugged it in last night to see if it would re-start properly and provide cool air. It did not. No cooling observed, no frost, nada. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall, do you hear, see, feel the (Condenser) fan underneath working? Yes, there is an ~8" diameter fan pulling air thru a cooling coil. What model do you have (need the complete model number from inside the fresh food section). Whirlpool model no. - PFSF5NFWAWW After it ran for a while, I was expecting to find some hot copper tubing in the refrigeration unit underneath the but everything was just ambient temperature. The "inverter compressor emb" and the "condenser" were ambient temperature, too. http://apdist.partsmartweb.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=APPLIANCEDISTRIBUTORS&session=408f81c6-ea41-4f58-b0cf-c930a59d8e3b&cat=7&TF=epcFrame&assem=210984&serialGroup=0&modelAssemID=&highlightNode=No&selAssem=497680&mdDescrip=PFSF5NFWAWW If that link doesnt work, try this and click on the "07- Machine Compartment" link http://apdist.partsmartweb.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 2:45:41 AM EDT
[#10]
In the last two years -
our dryer caught on fire, the replacement dryer broke and took 6 weeks to get it repaired, the washer flooded the kitchen TWICE, the flood water got under the linoleum which then had to be completely replaced, the dishwasher died and had to be replaced, there's more but I can't take it! 
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Posted: 11/20/2014 2:50:02 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In the last two years - our dryer caught on fire, the replacement dryer broke and took 6 weeks to get it repaired, the washer flooded the kitchen TWICE, the flood water got under the linoleum which then had to be completely replaced, the dishwasher died and had to be replaced, there's more but I can't take it! |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 2:51:41 AM EDT
[#12]
First off, thank you very much for the help.
I will have to wait until tomorrow morning to do the work. The girls have all gone to bed and I don't want to wake them. Neither link works for me. But I know where the card is and how to get to it. I believe there is a sheet metal access panel covering it. I'll check tomorrow. |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 4:15:14 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well if it is the board, that will set you back about $130.00. Not too bad. If you are determined to get a refrigerator.... get a whirlpool. One of the only good ones left. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
In the last two years - our dryer caught on fire, the replacement dryer broke and took 6 weeks to get it repaired, the washer flooded the kitchen TWICE, the flood water got under the linoleum which then had to be completely replaced, the dishwasher died and had to be replaced, there's more but I can't take it! Not sure if it was a fluke but I just had to replace a refrigerator. It was a Whirlpool. Died after 6 years. I've got a Frigidaire now. |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 1:00:06 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not sure if it was a fluke but I just had to replace a refrigerator. It was a Whirlpool. Died after 6 years. I've got a Frigidaire now. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: In the last two years - our dryer caught on fire, the replacement dryer broke and took 6 weeks to get it repaired, the washer flooded the kitchen TWICE, the flood water got under the linoleum which then had to be completely replaced, the dishwasher died and had to be replaced, there's more but I can't take it! Not sure if it was a fluke but I just had to replace a refrigerator. It was a Whirlpool. Died after 6 years. I've got a Frigidaire now. The only reason why I promote Whirlpool is because of parts availability, durability and accessibility over the other manufacturers. It used to be that a refrigerator was good for 12-15 years. You are lucky to buy a refrigerator today that will last 10 years and have only 3 service calls on them. DONT get me started on Samsung and LG  Just curious, what was wrong with your Whirlpool? |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 5:58:58 PM EDT
[#15]
DrFrige, I removed the controller board from the refrigerator. All the connectors were fully seated and there was nothing looked off-nominal. I gave it a good visual inspection at my inspection station. Honestly, the board looks fine. I saw no evidence of excessive temperature on any of the components - large or small. This included the numerous surface mount devices, transformer, inductors, ceramic capacitors and the power devices. There are 14 electrolytic capacitors and none show evidence of swelling, melting, overheating or leakage. There is no evidence of electrical arcing or shorting. The board's visual appearance is clean.
There are several relays on the board. They also look to be clean. I have not checked them for function or contact resistance. The links above are still not working for me. The plan is to shop for and purchase (~$1.5k) a Whirlpool refrigerator on Saturday. If I can get this one running before then for a reasonable price, I'd like to do that, instead. I think I'll go putz around with a multi-meter and see if I can find something that's obviously wrong. Without a schematic to work from, this is unlikely. |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 6:57:59 PM EDT
[#16]
I still say you try that helper capacitor I listed.
I found one local to me so I didn't have to wait for one to show up. cheap part to throw at it too if it doesn't work. |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 8:41:42 PM EDT
[#17]
What is it? How does it work? How is it used? Where do you install it?
Remember, I do not have a schematic for this unit. nm, I am reading up on them at the manufacturer's web site. |
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Posted: 11/20/2014 10:15:52 PM EDT
[#18]
When the main controller board turned out to be clean, I dug a little deeper into the refrigeration unit.
There is a small, black, spherical unit which is variously called the "inverter" and the "inverter compressor". I thought it was called a compressor but let's call it an inverter, for now. The inverter has an electronic control unit between the AC supply line and the "inverter". I disconnected this plastic box, removed it from the unit and opened the plastic case. I suspect this is a motor speed controller or some such BUT it has two big electrolytic capacitors (200V, 280 uF each) inside the plastic box. This circuit board has a noticeable brown color to it, a brown haze. The exterior of the plastic box has a fairly dark scorch mark directly beneath two small capacitors and a lighter scorch mark beneath the two big electrolytic capacitors. Hmmm,... something tells me the caps failed (shorted) and got really hot. Then, they spewed some of their guts all over the inside of the plastic box. The big caps are almost certainly the start caps which are needed to get the motor running. Right now, for all intents and purposes, they don't exist, so the motor won't start. Now, the question is this. Is this the cause or the effect? Did it fail to start after the caps failed (it was the cause) OR did the caps fail due to overstress because the inverter motor is damaged (ie, rotor locked or bearing seizure causing too much current)? If the caps are dead and this is the cause, then I can get a replacement controller for $170 and installation is simple. If the inverter is dead and that caused the caps to get overstressed, a new inverter costs $590 plus labor charges for installation by a technician. So,... any thoughts, guys? ELECTRLYTIC CAPACITORS COULD PROVE TO BE THE DOWNFALL OF THIS NATION (AND THE FREE WORLD)!
Honestly, though, almost every single piece of electronic gear I have which has failed has done so because of the electrolytic capacitors in the unit. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 2:15:40 AM EDT
[#19]
Cold control... Mess with the thermostat. If it kicks on. Bingo. Easy part to replace.
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:19:23 AM EDT
[#20]
OK You have a dc compressor. FIRST thing you are going to do is take a multimeter and set it for resistance (ohms) you have three pins on the compressor
Lets call them A, B and C Test resistance from A to B B to C C to A All should read the same THEN Test A to Ground B to Ground C to Ground They all should read OPEN If they all check out, the inverter (gray box) is bad... Part # is WR49X10283 Should cost around $165.00 Good luck and let me know.... Try not to fry your balls off.  |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:27:03 AM EDT
[#21]
Yer a good Scout, Frige!
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:27:36 AM EDT
[#22]
Ah, so the motor is a DC motor and the box/board is an AC to DC power supply and motor controller. The big capacitors are then likely filter caps for the DC output.
The compressor has a warning label that reads, "Applying line voltage directly to the input will cause permanent damage to the compressor." So, had I purchased that Supco Hard Start and used it, I would have fried my compressor, for sure. 
Here's a funny thing. I found a part that is not shown in the parts diagram and is not listed in the parts list. It appears to be two inductors, a resistor and a single capacitor both in parallel across the inductor outputs, then a series pair of capacitors with a center tap also paralleled across the output. All that is in a single plastic package about the size of an M-239 grenade. Working without a schematic has made this a major undertaking. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:37:44 AM EDT
[#23]
I bought a Whirlpool refrigerator in 2007 on the advice of DrFrige and it has been great. Inexpensive, looks good, and just simply works. Great purchase.
OP, do yourself and a favor and never, ever buy an appliance with GE on it. No appliance of any kind. No matter if it's half the price. Simply do not buy GE anything. Your frustration factor with appliances will drop significantly just with this. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:39:32 AM EDT
[#24]
LOL! That sounds like good advice. Thank you for it.
Thanks to DrFrige, too. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:47:19 AM EDT
[#25]
We have a whirlpool, bought it in about 1985. The only thing weve had to do is replace the magnetic door gasket.
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:47:52 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I bought a Whirlpool refrigerator in 2007 on the advice of DrFrige and it has been great. Inexpensive, looks good, and just simply works. Great purchase. OP, do yourself and a favor and never, ever buy an appliance with GE on it. No appliance of any kind. No matter if it's half the price. Simply do not buy GE anything. Your frustration factor with appliances will drop significantly just with this.  GE=Get Engineering! Now that GE is being sold to Electrolux... its the beginning of the end for them. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:48:38 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whirlpools are not immune from failure. As a matter of fact, they are encountering more failures than the units built 20 years earlier. Thanks to energy efficiency standards being placed upon manufacturers, the quality of components are greatly compromised. Add in the introduction of solid state circuitry over mechanical components, that increases failures. It also adds, my favorite (sarcasm) ghost failure codes that send me running out to the home only to find nothing wrong... MAYBE a door was left open by a child and now the "CALL SERVICE NOW!" light is flashing. The only reason why I promote Whirlpool is because of parts availability, durability and accessibility over the other manufacturers. It used to be that a refrigerator was good for 12-15 years. You are lucky to buy a refrigerator today that will last 10 years and have only 3 service calls on them. DONT get me started on Samsung and LG
Just curious, what was wrong with your Whirlpool? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
In the last two years - our dryer caught on fire, the replacement dryer broke and took 6 weeks to get it repaired, the washer flooded the kitchen TWICE, the flood water got under the linoleum which then had to be completely replaced, the dishwasher died and had to be replaced, there's more but I can't take it! Not sure if it was a fluke but I just had to replace a refrigerator. It was a Whirlpool. Died after 6 years. I've got a Frigidaire now. The only reason why I promote Whirlpool is because of parts availability, durability and accessibility over the other manufacturers. It used to be that a refrigerator was good for 12-15 years. You are lucky to buy a refrigerator today that will last 10 years and have only 3 service calls on them. DONT get me started on Samsung and LG
Just curious, what was wrong with your Whirlpool? Ya its really too bad my uncle has one those ones from the 50s that kids get stuck in, its in his garage as beer fridge still running strong, my parents have one in the basement of their house that is from the mid 80s and still going strong, I know several people that have them since the 70s and they still work. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 3:50:37 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ah, so the motor is a DC motor and the box/board is an AC to DC power supply. The big capacitors are then likely filter caps for the DC output. The compressor has a warning label that reads, "Applying line voltage directly to the input will cause permanent damage to the compressor." So, had I purchased that Supco Hard Start and used it, I would have fried my compressor, for sure. Here's a funny thing. I found a part that is not shown in the parts diagram and is not listed in the parts list. It appears to be two inductors, a resistor and a single capacitor both in parallel across the inductor outputs, then a series pair of capacitors with a center tap also paralleled across the output. All that is in a single plastic package about the size of an M-239 grenade. Working without a schematic has made this a major undertaking. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 4:49:19 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whirlpools are not immune from failure. As a matter of fact, they are encountering more failures than the units built 20 years earlier. Thanks to energy efficiency standards being placed upon manufacturers, the quality of components are greatly compromised. Add in the introduction of solid state circuitry over mechanical components, that increases failures. It also adds, my favorite (sarcasm) ghost failure codes that send me running out to the home only to find nothing wrong... MAYBE a door was left open by a child and now the "CALL SERVICE NOW!" light is flashing. The only reason why I promote Whirlpool is because of parts availability, durability and accessibility over the other manufacturers. It used to be that a refrigerator was good for 12-15 years. You are lucky to buy a refrigerator today that will last 10 years and have only 3 service calls on them. DONT get me started on Samsung and LG
Just curious, what was wrong with your Whirlpool? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
In the last two years - our dryer caught on fire, the replacement dryer broke and took 6 weeks to get it repaired, the washer flooded the kitchen TWICE, the flood water got under the linoleum which then had to be completely replaced, the dishwasher died and had to be replaced, there's more but I can't take it! Not sure if it was a fluke but I just had to replace a refrigerator. It was a Whirlpool. Died after 6 years. I've got a Frigidaire now. The only reason why I promote Whirlpool is because of parts availability, durability and accessibility over the other manufacturers. It used to be that a refrigerator was good for 12-15 years. You are lucky to buy a refrigerator today that will last 10 years and have only 3 service calls on them. DONT get me started on Samsung and LG
Just curious, what was wrong with your Whirlpool? Our Whirlpool was a side by side (unk model) and it started cooling less and less over several days. I checked the condensing coils and they were covered in dust (oops....should have done the maint....my fault I knew better but forgot to clean them). I cleaned them but it didn't cool any better. Tried shutting it down for 6 hrs or so and still nothing. It was blowing cold air....just not nearly enough to cool it down sufficiently. I thought about trying to figure out what was wrong with it but ended up making some changes to the kitchen layout and replaced the refrigerator all together. What are your thoughts/experience on the Frigidaire Gallery appliances? |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 5:18:16 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We have a whirlpool, bought it in about 1985. The only thing weve had to do is replace the magnetic door gasket. The thing is, there's a bit of a paradox in this. Your unit has proven itself over time. During the time your design was proving itself, the design changed. They don't make refrigerators like yours anymore, not even Whirlpool. |
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Posted: 11/22/2014 1:47:01 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The thing is, there's a bit of a paradox in this. Your unit has proven itself over time. During the time your design was proving itself, the design changed. They don't make refrigerators like yours anymore, not even Whirlpool. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: We have a whirlpool, bought it in about 1985. The only thing weve had to do is replace the magnetic door gasket. The thing is, there's a bit of a paradox in this. Your unit has proven itself over time. During the time your design was proving itself, the design changed. They don't make refrigerators like yours anymore, not even Whirlpool. Companies being forced to meet energy efficient standards lower their quality. Thanks gummint! Even the Rolls Royce's of refrigerators like Sub Zero have seen less than stellar results. Ask me about their evaporator coil issue and their condenser fan motor failures. |
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Posted: 11/22/2014 3:39:09 AM EDT
[#32]
On the other hand.... I remember the day my dad bought a huge upright freezer (maker unknown)... it was in the early 1960s... I was VERY young, 5 or 6... That damned freezer was still running when they carted it away after the folks died!! We never had it serviced, no coolant replaced, nothing!
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Posted: 11/22/2014 2:38:24 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
On the other hand.... I remember the day my dad bought a huge upright freezer (maker unknown)... it was in the early 1960s... I was VERY young, 5 or 6... That damned freezer was still running when they carted it away after the folks died!! We never had it serviced, no coolant replaced, nothing! I don't understand your point. How does that differ from the situation we just described? Past performance is no guarantee of future performance. |
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Posted: 11/22/2014 2:52:16 PM EDT
[#34]
We went out last night and bought a replacement refrigerator.
This came as a bit of a shock to us - a white paint finish costs $500 more than stainless steel. Now, before you say, "Yes, but it costs money to paint the refrigerator and they don't need those steps for a stainless exterior.", let me tell you the stainless steel models are only stainless on the doors - the box is painted grey. My wife said the fad of stainless appliances is over and everyone is trying to blow out their remaining stock. White appliances is the new trend, hence the higher prices. |
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Posted: 11/22/2014 2:58:35 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IOP, do yourself and a favor and never, ever buy an appliance with GE on it. No appliance of any kind. No matter if it's half the price. Simply do not buy GE anything. Your frustration factor with appliances will drop significantly just with this. I've had good experience with GE. We have a GE fridge and it's been running solid since we bought our house in '97. A couple of weeks ago the ice maker quit (but more on that in a minute). I feel your pain, OP. This has been the year from hell for us in regards to home issues. In April we had a slab leak that dumped about 40,000 gallons under the house (I'm still waiting to be swallowed by a sinkhole). Like an idiot I repaired it instead of re-piping. In July our AC unit went out and we ended up having to buy a whole new system. Last month we had to put a new roof on. Last week we had another slab leak and one in the wall at the hot water heater. This week we did the re-pipe. That's about $20K in repairs. The silver lining, though, is that our ice maker started working again.
Now that we've replaced every major system we should be (knock on wood) good for a while. |
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Posted: 11/22/2014 4:54:44 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now that we've replaced every major system we should be (knock on wood) good for a while. Think about your drains and waste lines.
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Posted: 11/22/2014 4:57:41 PM EDT
[#37]
Evil you are.
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Posted: 11/24/2014 6:16:56 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Evil you are. LOL!
I did the tests DrFrige suggested. The three coils all measured 7.1 ohms and all exhibit more than 200 Mohms isolation from chassis ground (measured using a multimeter not a high voltage megohmeter). I could assume replacement of the motor driver circuit board would get this refrigerator going again but was unwilling to spend $200 to find out. When I think about the economics of the refrigerator repair-versus-purchase, it does not seem too smart to spend $1500 to buy new rather than spend $200 for a repair. Still, for some reason, I am okay with that decision. |
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Posted: 11/28/2014 2:15:07 PM EDT
[#39]
I see Sears has some killer sales on them today
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Posted: 11/28/2014 2:28:00 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I see Sears has some killer sales on them today That is where we bought our replacement refrigerator. We got their Black Friday price last week. The link is to the item we bought. Link to Sears sale |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 12:45:12 AM EDT
[#41]
Remember, the title of thread - One Thing After Another.
We have now waited three weeks for delivery by Sears of a white refrigerator. We got an email three days ago saying it would be here on time. We got suspicious when the delivery company did not call to arrange a delivery time. Tonight, I called Sears Customer Service for an update. After three calls, I was told the refrigerator will be a week late. FOUR WEEKS TO GET A WHITE REFRIGERATOR! <-- Oh, by the way, how credible is the new promised delivery date
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Posted: 12/11/2014 2:35:44 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Remember, the title of thread - One Thing After Another. We have now waited three weeks for delivery by Sears of a white refrigerator. We got an email three days ago saying it would be here on time. We got suspicious when the delivery company did not call to arrange a delivery time. Tonight, I called Sears Customer Service for an update. After three calls, I was told the refrigerator will be a week late. FOUR WEEKS TO GET A WHITE REFRIGERATOR! <-- Oh, by the way, how credible is the new promised delivery dateI worked for Sears as a technician. My refrigerator was dying so I walked into the Sears store WITH my uniform on after work and wanted to buy a new ref. Filled out a credit application. DENIED! Walked across the street to Circuit City. Amana refrigerator on sale $399.00 plus they will throw in the icemaker for $0.01. Fill out credit application there: APPROVED! I get the response in the mail on why I was denied credit from Sears. "Inadequate income"... ARE YOU FUCKING KIDDING ME? I wrote a SCATHING letter to corporate HQ. With the following talking points: 1. "Inadequate income?" IF I DIDN'T PAY THE BILL, YOU COULD HAVE TAKEN IT OUT OF MY PAYCHECK! 2. "You know how embarrassing it was to walk into our competitors showroom wearing OUR uniform and buying a refrigerator from them?" 2 weeks later I got a Sears credit card with a $2,000.00 limit.  |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 4:22:37 AM EDT
[#43]
Google the make and model number plus troubleshooting for any known issues.
I have a GE fridge that I had similiar issues with. There is a cover plate on the back. Unscrewed it and there is a big main circuit board mounted under it. Ordered a new one off eBay and it has worked ever since. The replacement board was packaged new from an OEM vendor in a GE box. Got it for half what the online OEM parts vendors wanted. |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 2:22:37 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Google the make and model number plus troubleshooting for any known issues. I have a GE fridge that I had similiar issues with. There is a cover plate on the back. Unscrewed it and there is a big main circuit board mounted under it. Ordered a new one off eBay and it has worked ever since. The replacement board was packaged new from an OEM vendor in a GE box. Got it for half what the online OEM parts vendors wanted. Yes, thanks for the input on this. I disassembled the old refrigerator. The controller board appeared to be fine but would cost $140 to replace. The power supply for the compressor motor looked fried. It's a $200 item. I am sorely tempted (by anger) to cancel the order for the new frig and just repair the old. |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 12:57:19 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Google the make and model number plus troubleshooting for any known issues. I have a GE fridge that I had similiar issues with. There is a cover plate on the back. Unscrewed it and there is a big main circuit board mounted under it. Ordered a new one off eBay and it has worked ever since. The replacement board was packaged new from an OEM vendor in a GE box. Got it for half what the online OEM parts vendors wanted.  |
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Posted: 12/13/2014 1:01:16 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryI am sorely tempted (by anger) to cancel the order for the new frig and just repair the old. Dude, normally i don't reply to stuff like this but i'm huge on repairing stuff that will save me money. I think considering what you have gone thru to get a new fridge, and still don't have it, and knowing that the two parts are more than likely the problem, i would strongly suggest buying the parts and fixing. As a matter of fact, buy the parts,attempt the fix. By the time the fridge is fixed, you can still cancel the order for the new fridge. I'm keeping an eye on your results. Please update once you have resolved your issue. Nothing would please me more than to know you stuck it to the appliance manufactures that put you in this predicament in the first place. I bought my house in 2012 with a bad dishwasher. I resoldered in a new capacitor on the circuit board and about half of the machine came to life. I could not figure out the remainder of the washers issues. Nothing else was blown and i wasn't going to pay $150 for a new circuit board on a 8 year old dish washer. Eventually i bought a new one. But the fact that i came so close with a $2 capacitor from radioshack REALLY made me proud of myself for ALMOST fixing it. Even tho i actually never did. FIX IT! |
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Posted: 12/13/2014 1:12:08 PM EDT
[#47]
I have an old SubZero that is going strong.......I’ll sell it to ya cheap.
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Posted: 12/13/2014 2:12:04 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have an old SubZero that is going strong.......I’ll sell it to ya cheap. The old SZ's were work horses... Westye Bakke knew what he was doing when they designed those and they ran for years! I am talking 40 years and still going. The new ones are shit. DONT do it. They may look great but NAH! Fucking Europeans are kicking ass with their built ins. Look at Liebherr (Austrian) and Fhiaba (Italian) BTW, I am on my third Sub Zero in my home. I have a 600 series. My old 200 series went to my neighbor years ago and it is STILL working. Only got rid of it because it looked outdated. |
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Posted: 12/13/2014 3:24:28 PM EDT
[#49]
<rant mode on>
Something is seriously wrong with the appliance industry. It seems as sick as if it were a government-run industry. I say that because - 1. Our clothes dryer died after just a couple of years. 2. It took 3 or 4 visits and 6 weeks for the repairman to fix our dryer. 3. Our washing machine died after just a few years. 4. The replacement washer died after just a few years. 5. Our current washer periodically (randomly, sporadically) spills water. 6. Our refrigerator died six months after the end of the extended warranty (only 4 1/2 years old). 7. The replacement frig is taking 4 weeks for delivery. We don't actually have it, yet, so only time will tell if it takes longer than that. Ah, I've got it. It IS a sick industry. The insurance companies are involved, selling extended warranties. The players are the repair companies and the insurance companies - the customer's money has already been taken, so they are not a power-player. The under-trained repair man works for some "clearing house" the insurance company contracts with for warranty repair fulfillment. The clearing house is not the best repair shop, they are the low bidder. As soon as the consumer gives up their money to an insurance company, the business starts to get sick - a third party moves in and takes over the show. It's the Golden Rule - the one with the gold rules. <rant mode off> |
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Posted: 12/13/2014 3:30:31 PM EDT
[#50]
What a crappy run of luck OP. When shopping steer clear of Electrolux anything. I have a home full of the worst appliances and service known to man. Steadily replacing them as the break...which is often.
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