User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 11/13/2014 9:29:59 PM EDT
[#1]
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice.
The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/13/2014 9:31:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/13/2014 9:32:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Almost 20 years in construction and I've only seen it hung vertically once. There's probably a reason but I avoid drywall almost as much as insulation, so I don't know what that is.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/13/2014 9:54:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Factory edge with a bevel makes the screw kick a bit during install, not much meat there if you blow out the side of the stud. Less Joints horizontally on a long wall.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/13/2014 10:07:48 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Almost 20 years in construction and I've only seen it hung vertically once. There's probably a reason but I avoid drywall almost as much as insulation, so I don't know what that is.  |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/13/2014 10:08:20 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there a benefit to doing it that way? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. one long mud joint instead of a bunch of 8 ft'ers |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 1:22:38 AM EDT
[#7]
From what I know, the drywall manufacturers taper the long sides of the boards, so if they are installed vertically the edges are beveled together so after mud and tape they are flush and smooth. However, hanging it vertically is a pain in the ass, as the beveled edge makes it harder to get the screws in properly. Also, when laid horizontal, the main seam halfway up the wall is the whole length of the room....means only one run with the mud 'n tape.
Or you could do the drywall like they did in my house....no tape OR mud. Who needs that stuff anyway? (What a PITA to fix). |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 2:02:27 AM EDT
[#8]
It is also hung horizontaly because it adds strength
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 8:02:40 AM EDT
[#9]
Most jobs are hung horizontally because it minimizes problems with stud spacing being accurate, and it's quicker if the stud layout is poor. Last stud on the sheet is off? Cut the sheet back to meet it.
When you do that for a vertical sheet, you wind up cutting off the factory taper, which is not good because of the loss of the taper and the taper is harder material than the rest of the sheet. It also takes longer to cut, which means money in the piece-work field. If I have done the stud layout, then I always hang it vertically because it makes finishing quicker, easier and a better finished product. Depending on how bad the stud layout is, you could still hang it vertically if it only requires one sheet or two to be cut. Otherwise, laydown it is. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 8:41:55 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
one long mud joint instead of a bunch of 8 ft'ers Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. one long mud joint instead of a bunch of 8 ft'ers Don't you also have to tape the joint between the ends of a sheet? I'm pretty sure the number/amount of joints that need taped & mudded will be the same no matter what... I think the guy above me has it right with the stud-layout issue being the primary reason... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 9:54:12 AM EDT
[#11]
Whenever i finish a basement i hang them vertical. It is easier for me to hang by myself, and also easier to finish. I frame my walls so the studs are always correctly spaced. I have never seen a drywall crew run it vertically though.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 10:00:59 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
one long mud joint instead of a bunch of 8 ft'ers Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. one long mud joint instead of a bunch of 8 ft'ers You can also buy longer sheets (10'-12') and reduce the number of joints overall. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 5:16:46 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't you also have to tape the joint between the ends of a sheet? I'm pretty sure the number/amount of joints that need taped & mudded will be the same no matter what... I think the guy above me has it right with the stud-layout issue being the primary reason... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
. Don't you also have to tape the joint between the ends of a sheet? I'm pretty sure the number/amount of joints that need taped & mudded will be the same no matter what... I think the guy above me has it right with the stud-layout issue being the primary reason... In many houses buying 12' sheets eliminates that altogether. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 5:37:26 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In many houses buying 12' sheets eliminates that altogether. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: . Don't you also have to tape the joint between the ends of a sheet? I'm pretty sure the number/amount of joints that need taped & mudded will be the same no matter what... I think the guy above me has it right with the stud-layout issue being the primary reason... In many houses buying 12' sheets eliminates that altogether. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 8:35:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. 25 years carpenter here. wtf are you talking about?  I can guarantee I have scrapped out more drywall then you've hung. if I had to guess I would say I've hung between 40k-50k sheets over the years. damn skippy the 4' end of a horizontal sheet needs to break on a stud or a scab stud. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 8:39:03 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Most jobs are hung horizontally because it minimizes problems with stud spacing being accurate, and it's quicker if the stud layout is poor. Last stud on the sheet is off? Cut the sheet back to meet it. When you do that for a vertical sheet, you wind up cutting off the factory taper, which is not good because of the loss of the taper and the taper is harder material than the rest of the sheet. It also takes longer to cut, which means money in the piece-work field. If I have done the stud layout, then I always hang it vertically because it makes finishing quicker, easier and a better finished product. Depending on how bad the stud layout is, you could still hang it vertically if it only requires one sheet or two to be cut. Otherwise, laydown it is. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 8:41:24 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: my igloo is 45 x 27. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: . Don't you also have to tape the joint between the ends of a sheet? I'm pretty sure the number/amount of joints that need taped & mudded will be the same no matter what... I think the guy above me has it right with the stud-layout issue being the primary reason... In many houses buying 12' sheets eliminates that altogether. 14' sheets!  from floor to ceiling how far? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 9:06:37 PM EDT
[#18]
I hang rock whichever way gives me less waste, which is usually horizontal.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2014 9:29:14 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
25 years carpenter here. wtf are you talking about?
I can guarantee I have scrapped out more drywall then you've hung. if I had to guess I would say I've hung between 40k-50k sheets over the years. damn skippy the 4' end of a horizontal sheet needs to break on a stud or a scab stud. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together.
I can guarantee I have scrapped out more drywall then you've hung. if I had to guess I would say I've hung between 40k-50k sheets over the years. damn skippy the 4' end of a horizontal sheet needs to break on a stud or a scab stud. The Op was asking about the horizontal joints not having solid backing (when hanging the drywall horizontally). RIF Quoted: "I'm going to be renoing our kitchen, laundry room in the spring. I've done some already and I hung the gyproc vertically with the joints running the full length of a stud. I've been watching the various home reno shows up here and I've noticed some of the contractors run the sheets horizontally. Wouldn't that create a weak seam where the sheets meet due to most of the seam not being supported by the stud? " |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2014 4:36:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The Op was asking about the horizontal joints not having solid backing (when hanging the drywall horizontally). RIF Quoted: "I'm going to be renoing our kitchen, laundry room in the spring. I've done some already and I hung the gyproc vertically with the joints running the full length of a stud. I've been watching the various home reno shows up here and I've noticed some of the contractors run the sheets horizontally. Wouldn't that create a weak seam where the sheets meet due to most of the seam not being supported by the stud? " Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together.
I can guarantee I have scrapped out more drywall then you've hung. if I had to guess I would say I've hung between 40k-50k sheets over the years. damn skippy the 4' end of a horizontal sheet needs to break on a stud or a scab stud. The Op was asking about the horizontal joints not having solid backing (when hanging the drywall horizontally). RIF Quoted: "I'm going to be renoing our kitchen, laundry room in the spring. I've done some already and I hung the gyproc vertically with the joints running the full length of a stud. I've been watching the various home reno shows up here and I've noticed some of the contractors run the sheets horizontally. Wouldn't that create a weak seam where the sheets meet due to most of the seam not being supported by the stud? " Yeah I took his post to mean the 14 (+ or -) inches in between studs. I will typically go ahead and add blocking so that there is no "weak point" . In the middle of dividing my 3 car garage into a two car and a 1 car (has a single and double door). Ceilings are 10 foot so I started with a full sheet horizontal from the top followed by another 4 and a 2 foot piece from the bottom. By the time the base cabinets and uppers are in there will be little exposed wall space remaining so 90% of the joints will be behind cabinets. You may also consider adding 2x4's with the 4" facing out and flush with the studs at the top of where your base cabinets and uppers are going to be so that you will catch a stud wherever you need one when installing your cabinets. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2014 7:01:08 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah I took his post to mean the 14 (+ or -) inches in between studs. I will typically go ahead and add blocking so that there is no "weak point" . In the middle of dividing my 3 car garage into a two car and a 1 car (has a single and double door). Ceilings are 10 foot so I started with a full sheet horizontal from the top followed by another 4 and a 2 foot piece from the bottom. By the time the base cabinets and uppers are in there will be little exposed wall space remaining so 90% of the joints will be behind cabinets. You may also consider adding 2x4's with the 4" facing out and flush with the studs at the top of where your base cabinets and uppers are going to be so that you will catch a stud wherever you need one when installing your cabinets. I really like the idea of putting a block at the top though...thanks. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2014 7:28:29 PM EDT
[#22]
Another advantage of the horizontal hang is that you're working the joint at roughly chest level, instead of bending over, reaching up, bending over, reaching up... or in my (5/7") case, using a stepstool.
Of course you still have to work the ceiling and corner joints up high, but every little bit helps. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2014 7:34:28 PM EDT
[#23]
The answer is that people who feed themselves by hanging drywall do it whichever way is faster. I watched my house being rocked, and I damn near collapsed from exhaustion just watching him. I've done some rocking myself, and spent time cleaning up mud joints for paint prep. I prefer to hang the drywall vertically, since mudding over the tapered joints gives a less visible joint. Depending upon the lighting in the room, and other decor items like chair rails, a horizontal joint will often be visible. I have also seen "pros" try to mud up the butt ends of two horizontal sheets, and it always looks like hell. All other things being equal, a vertical joint will be less visible than a horizontal one.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2014 9:27:31 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there a benefit to doing it that way? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. It is stiffer when hung horizontally. Try and bend a board the 4 foot dimension then put your hand 4 feet apart on the 8 foot dimension. They are NOT the same strength. It is extruded from 4 foot wide machines. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2014 6:55:10 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It is stiffer when hung horizontally. Try and bend a board the 4 foot dimension then put your hand 4 feet apart on the 8 foot dimension. They are NOT the same strength. It is extruded from 4 foot wide machines. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Is there a benefit to doing it that way? It is stiffer when hung horizontally. Try and bend a board the 4 foot dimension then put your hand 4 feet apart on the 8 foot dimension. They are NOT the same strength. It is extruded from 4 foot wide machines. I understand that but...if I hang it vertically..the entire seam, edge will be suppported by a stud. My house is 35 years old and the studs in the room I redid were on a 16" center.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2014 7:06:32 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there a benefit to doing it that way? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Running the drywall horizontally is pretty much standard practice. The seams don't need to have support under them, the tape and spackle "glue" the sheets together. easier on the eye vertical seams are more noticeable just got done hanging the ceiling on my addition did I mention I hate drywall |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2014 8:37:47 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is stiffer when hung horizontally. Try and bend a board the 4 foot dimension then put your hand 4 feet apart on the 8 foot dimension. They are NOT the same strength. It is extruded from 4 foot wide machines. I do not understand this. Please explain. If the edges are supported the same (screwed to a stud) and with isotropic mechanical properties, in my mind, they should be the same. Paper fibers could be directional and the extruding of the gypsum could lead to anisotropic properties but I would still not expect a huge difference in the two directions. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2014 9:08:42 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: just got done hanging the ceiling on my addition did I mention I hate drywall did you hang it vertically or horizontally?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/17/2014 10:27:57 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
did you hang it vertically or horizontally? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
just got done hanging the ceiling on my addition did I mention I hate drywall did you hang it vertically or horizontally? Horiz defying gravity I am old school and only had nails to boot and homemade scaffolding top part was 14' my neck and triceps were huritn the next day |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2014 12:09:25 PM EDT
[#30]
isotropic mechanical properties, The properties are NOT isotropic. The extrusion system causes that. Cut a four foot piece along the length and another across the width. Block them up and see how they sag. It is NOT the same. The only place they are routinely placed vertical is in commercial work on steel studs to achieve slab to slab floors. See SCIF |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/21/2014 6:36:52 PM EDT
[#31]
Best advice I can give you.... Hire a couple of dry-wallers to hang tape and texture.
I just DIY'd a 14x20 foot room addition , Did everything myself. *I had to farm out the heating and cooling *hired day laborers to help me hoist the Box beams I built into place. *Hired 2 dry wallers. to sheet tape and texture the room (300.00 for the room) They did it faster,better,plus clean up than I could do. All I did was provide the materials, they brought their skill and tools. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/28/2014 5:17:14 PM EDT
[#32]
Hanging the sheets horizontally also helps disguise it when you have a stud that is slightly in or out. Don't let the whole "unsupported edge" crap influence you into hanging vertically.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2014 2:32:04 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hanging the sheets horizontally also helps disguise it when you have a stud that is slightly in or out. Don't let the whole "unsupported edge" crap influence you into hanging vertically. This too It usually breaks better horizontally in the end after it is taped and mudded the joints are stronger than the sheet |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2014 10:33:18 PM EDT
[#34]
GC here. Almost always vertically.
As for edges, because of code, we frame in metal. If a dtud is slightly off when rocking, remove the two zippies and more it. Sometimes we will just place the studs in the tracks loose at 16 OC. When you get to the edge of a board, you just move it over. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
