That's the profile of what I'm attempting to make, and I need it to be a hair over 8' long.

My first attempt was a dismal failure. Admittedly, I used an older Ridgid general purpose blade instead of a quality ripping blade. A second (major) issue I faced is that I think I encountered reaction wood. I used featherboards and a rip fence, and attempted to cut the bevels while the 1x4 oak was on edge. As I was cutting, I could see the drop peeling away from the rest of the wood in a completely different direction. I had all sorts of feed issues with the wood moving away from the fence, and consequently my cuts look like absolute crap. Burn marks, gouges, nowhere near nice parallel cuts. Its bad.

Question 1:

-If I decide to try again instead of hiring it out, how can I best guarantee not having to deal with such springy wood? This was red oak from Home Depot (I know, I know....not much else is open on a Sunday)

Question 2:

-Am I going about this the right way? I would guess that ideally a shaper would be used with the appropriate chamfer bit, but all I have is a 2hp router (w/ table) and I doubt that would be enough to bevel it even with several shallow passes. I'd guess just the size of the bit (if one is even made at the needed size and angle) would be too much for it to handle.

Is it a saddle between two levels of flooring?

Yes

1.See if you can find a three inch saddle that is long enough for your needs.
2. Get some 1/4' scant boards at home depot, I think they were 1/4"x4"x4' and rip a 1.5 " strip off each side. Align the milled edge to the edge of your saddle and glue them together.

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. and the contractors tried to use a brass strip to cover it up.

I've done that with a Forrest Woodworker II blade in a Unisaw. Not an 8' piece though. A second person helping you maintain a steady feed rate will be critical. Plus a clean sharp blade.





You'll need to use a feather board before and after the blade and then one to hold the board down to the table. Still going to be tricky with a piece that long. Once you start a cut you can't stop or hesitate. You'll end up with burn marks if you do. You should use a piece of wood long enough to allow you to trim both ends. Even with the best setup to help support the board through the blade you'll have some irregularities at the start and end of the cuts.





You're right about the right tool being a shaper. A molding planer is even better. You might search online for a architectural molding place. Here's couple of places I've gotten things from in the past.





O.B. Williams





There's also Arvid's Wood in Everett, WA.



Might check with local flooring people too.




 

Well, after a break to clear the frustrations, I was able to successfully do it.

A new rip blade was critical. It was a $25 10" diablo. I'm sure not the greatest, but it was a huge improvement. Support in the infeed and outfeed side was done as best as I could with a very u never concrete garage floor.

Congrats.



 

Awesome, you got skillz!