Couple questions about this little project. Plan is to build and attach a bench/desk to the full length of the wall in an extra room in house. I plan on attaching 2x4s to wall, as shown below, to the walls and running stringers for support. After that, 2 layers of 3/4 plywood and a laminate countertop to finish it off. Tap cons will be used along the back and ride side wall to anchor the 2x4s and drywall anchors on the other end.

A couple questions ( I always overthink things)
Stringers every 12in or 16in?
Supports will be ran at an angle from the bottom of the bench to just above the basebord on the floor. How many should be added for this span?

I dont plan on ever putting anything of great weight on the bench. One end will be used as a reloading end and the other as a computer desk and work area for gun cleaning etc.

I think with a 2x4 along the back, you won't need much in the way of stringers and 24" should be fine except right where your press is - this is where most of your force will be applied. I think this is especially true if you face the front edge with hardwood and keep your plywood width down. You may not even need stringers.

On the bench I just built I used some black iron pipe and 2 end fittings - tapconned to the floor and then screwed to the bottom of the bench. This gave me more strength right around the press.

Over time I suspect those drywall anchors are going to allow flex on that outside corner. Your putting a decent amount of repetitive load on your bench every time you use the press. If it was mine I'd put at least a 2x4 post straight down from the corner to the floor.(on the drywall corner)  I like to over build so I'd go 16" centers on the stringers. 2x4s are cheap compared to the 3/4 plywood so be generous. Also you SAY no heavy loads but you'll be surprised how easy it is to end up with 2-300 pounds on there.  Definitely use screws/bolts to put the stuff together. Just my opinion, worth what ya paid for it.

This is what I would do.

Put ledger boards on the wall beneath the three edges.  Lag them into the wall studs and use Red Heads for the concrete walls.  You may also want a ledger board at the bottom of the back wall to attach the diagonal braces.

Put a 2X4 beneath the front edge, possibly even rabbet the 2X4 and recess the plywood into it (plywood veneers are fragile and will get damaged over time).  this will dramatically stiffen and strengthen the front edge.  It also provides a convenient place to attach the legs and braces.

Use vertical legs in the front, especially surrounding the press-mounting locations.

Use diagonal braces from the top front to the bottom rear - one at each leg location.

I would put a shelf beneath the top.  

I would put a stringer across the front, down near the floor (like in a bar).  This is to rest your foot while seated at the workbench.


Remember, static loading is one thing but dynamic loads are another.







Help out with this question - Will the Formica get broken and look like crap?  Formica laminate is thin and hard/stiff.  The wooden substrate is fairly soft.  I suspect the laminate would get cracked/broken when things get dropped on it - hard metal corers punching down into the laminate.  

It is going to promote the build up of static electricity, too. This is generally bad for reloading and electronics.  A bare wooden surface is really the ideal surface to avoid static electricity.  You could oil it with BLO or Watco but don't put a varnish on it.

Simplest solution is often the best solution.  

Free standing traditional workbench.  (see stickeyed thread up top for some ideas).  

Along with what the guys have mentioned above which are good ideas..  This doesn't necessarily answer your initial question if you want to use plywood but have you considered solid core doors?  Two 6-8 x 30"  doors will cost about $150 and they're ready for laminate.  The only support that you'll need is a post at the joint and the ledgers.