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Posted: 4/19/2014 2:41:16 PM EDT
I started this a few weeks ago and just got the gravel spread like I want it. My hands are blistered due to forgetting my gloves for the first few yards. That's a 14" wide by 12" deep footing. The field will be 4" thick with mesh and the footing will have rebar. Have to put the plastic barrier down tomorrow first. The form is braced with stobs and "kickers" every 6' and i put all the extra gravel around the outside of the form to help prevent a blowout.



The walls are going to be 12" concrete block filed with concrete and there will be no windows. The only wall penetrations are the single door and a small air conditioner as well as a thimble for the stove pipe for the wood stove. I want it secure as I will be using it for my reloading room as well as storage and canning.

This 17'X14' room (my wife calls it my bunker) will cost about $4500-$5000 when done. A comperable shed like my neighbor has in this picture costs about $3000 and will rot eventually.

Just sharing a project with y'all.

The slab is done and it looks pretty danged good. I'll put a blue or green Kemiko acid stain on it when the rest of the building is done.
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 2:54:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Subscribed for updates. Looks good.
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 3:07:46 PM EDT
[#2]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Subscribed for updates. Looks good.
View Quote







 
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 10:13:48 PM EDT
[#3]
what state are you in?  or said another way, does it get below freezing there for long periods of time?  do you need a proper footer below the frost line?

i'm still a bit confused about your approach with all the gravel; typically for a foundation you would excavate the perimeter, pour a footer in the trench, then block up the foundation walls off the footer until about 18"-24" above grade, and then backfill against the foundation walls.  next, you prep the interior (compacted gravel base + visqueen) and pour the flatwork slab, buffering it from the foundation walls with expansion strip so it floats.  the resultant slab usually ends up about 4"-6" or so above grade, keeping the water out and allowing for an easy one-step-up entry and/or sloped garage entry apron.

what's your order of operations compared to that?

any why 12" commercial block?  do you have an inexpensive source?  
did you cancel your gym membership and need a substitute?  

ar-jedi

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Link Posted: 4/19/2014 11:00:43 PM EDT
[#4]
No worries here about frost line or anything freeze related except water lines.

I pulled the area flat with my box blade on my tractor, formed 12" and staked with bracing. Had the gravel delivered and dumped into the form.

Then I went around the edge to dig out the footing and level the gravel to a -4" for the concrete. The extra gravel, I pitched around the outside edge for support.  Might not have needed it but I've never heard anyone say that they wished they didn't make their concrete form so sturdy, ever.

I made the form 12" so the down hill side was up off of the ground about 6". It will remain back filled all the way around, almost  to the top of the concrete when it is finished.

It might not be how someone else would do it but someone else wasn't here to help.

I'm going with 12" concrete block for the insulation value especially when it is filled with more concrete. 12' blocks cost $1.60 each and 8" are $1.06. About $250 more. BFD

This building will hold items that I don't want to be exposed to rapid or drastic temperature change.

Link Posted: 4/19/2014 11:11:55 PM EDT
[#5]
Tag.
Link Posted: 4/21/2014 8:41:38 PM EDT
[#6]
I don't know anything about reloading, but do think a wood stove is the safest way to heat a reloading room.?
Link Posted: 4/21/2014 9:28:03 PM EDT
[#7]
Very nice!
Link Posted: 4/22/2014 12:18:53 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I don't know anything about reloading, but do think a wood stove is the safest way to heat a reloading room.?
View Quote


Plenty of people heat a reloading room with a wood stove. Just don't reload right on top of the stove and don't store powder or primers near it and you should be okay. Example if your stove is on the north wall you want to reload on the south wall.

If you are storing powders and primers make sure you store them in a box with a weak side. If the worse should happen you want the box to have a way to allow the pressure to blow out and not turn into a bomb. Remember if the worse should happen there is nothing you can do to stop the fire since powders have such a fast burn rate. You can only take precautions to prevent serious injury and minimize the damage.
Link Posted: 4/23/2014 11:27:19 AM EDT
[#9]
I'll tag any thread started by a Beat fan.

All I can hear while reading your thread is, "Who, me?"
Link Posted: 4/23/2014 12:05:36 PM EDT
[#10]
For a place that small, I wouldn't heat it with a wood stove.  Too much hassle for the amount of time you'll be using it.  

I would use a small electric heater if I wanted to put heat in cheaply and if you are willing to spend a little more money, I'd install a vented propane or natural gas heater.  Propane would probably be cheaper and easier since you could put a small 20-100 lb tank outside the building and just run the propane lines inside the building but if you go with natural gas, you'll have to trench a line from your existing meter/residence....and that's assuming that you even have natural gas.  For a small building installing propane is usually the cheapest gas option even though natural gas is cheaper per BTU.  

If you do go with gas or propane, do NOT use unvented heaters.  They do work and are pretty good emergency heat but they put a lot of moisture into the air and for a reloading room, you don't want moisture.

FYI....concrete is a terrible insulator.  If you have insulation on the OUTSIDE of the building, then the concrete is an EXCELLENT heat sink to hold and maintain the inside temp without a lot of heat input.  But, if you are relying on thick concrete as insulation, you are going to be disappointed.  Concrete transfers heat VERY well.  Think of it this way....when it's cool outside and you sit down on a concrete surface what happens?  You get cold. The reason is, your body heat is transferring from you into the concrete....and you get cold.  Put a piece of insulation between you and the concrete, and you stay a lot warmer.  Try sleeping on cold concrete with and then without some form of good insulation between you and the concrete and you'll experience it for yourself.  

The rule of insulation is that heat ALWAYS moves to cold.  So, when it's cold outside and you are paying $$ to heat the inside, the heat you are paying for is transferring through the concrete to the outdoors.  When it's hot outside and you are wanting to cool the inside to make it bearable to work in, the heat is transferring from the outside to the inside, heating up your building.  

Insulation slows the movement of heat.  You can heat/cool a concrete building...but without a thermal break between the outside and the inside somewhere in the structure, you're going to have a hard time heating and cooling it....and it'll be a lot more expensive to do so.

Enjoying the pics regardless so please keep them coming!
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 1:09:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Another update.  The blocks arrived this morning.  I am home with the flu but I still got out there and drilled the holes in the slab and drove the rebar to tie the slab to the blocks.


Placed a few blocks around the edge to make sure of my drill pattern.


Man, it's a beautiful day!  Too bad I'm sick. I could do more if I was well.


12" blocks are heavy in case y'all were wondering.
Link Posted: 5/3/2014 9:36:02 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I'm going with 12" concrete block for the insulation value especially when it is filled with more concrete. 12' blocks cost $1.60 each and 8" are $1.06. About $250 more. BFD

This building will hold items that I don't want to be exposed to rapid or drastic temperature change.

View Quote



you mean thermal mass not insulation value. Concrete has effectively no insulation value.
Link Posted: 5/24/2014 3:39:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Back wall.


Door way.  Thimble for wood burning heater on the left, and place for air conditioner on right. My baby boy in the doorway is 6'7" tall for reference.


12" thick blocks with steel door set to inside edge.  This leaves room for the 1/4" thick steel plate door on a 4" channel frame with safe door type bolts to throw into the steel casing that I will make.
Link Posted: 5/24/2014 3:49:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Nice. Do you have a masonry background? How hard is it to build with block?
Link Posted: 5/24/2014 5:11:39 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Nice. Do you have a masonry background? How hard is it to build with block?
View Quote


It's simple!  I just stacked 12-$100 bills in the masons thick fingered calloused hand and it was done!
Link Posted: 6/14/2014 11:48:43 PM EDT
[#16]
My son and I got the roof formed and ready to pour.



Lots of support underneath,



6" deep on the side facing the driveway and 5" deep on the back.



Next week the roof should be done.
Link Posted: 6/16/2014 10:50:12 AM EDT
[#17]
Nice!

2" of XPS foam on the exterior and your choice of siding over that would go a loooooooooooooong way in achieving the kind of temp stability you are looking for.
Link Posted: 6/21/2014 10:08:16 PM EDT
[#18]
I made a rebar bender to make it easier on me.
" />
Closeup of the bender. It can handle 3/4' easy I'm guessing because it bent that 5/8" like buttah.
" />
Getting ready to finish up the rebar and tie it tomorrow morning before it gets too hot.
" />

Can't wait to finish this project!
Link Posted: 6/22/2014 10:00:39 AM EDT
[#19]
WOW.  Thanks for sharing.
Link Posted: 6/22/2014 5:37:07 PM EDT
[#20]
And the rebar is done! It only took 4 "saddles" to space it up off of the form. I am very happy with the results though my knees and back are complaining.
" />

Now waiting on the concrete guy to pour next week sometime. Should take about 10 1/2 yards of pump mix. That's about $1300 plus about $400 for the pump truck and about $1000 for the concrete man and his help.
Link Posted: 6/22/2014 6:36:17 PM EDT
[#21]
Very nice building.  Is it safe to ask why a concrete roof?
Link Posted: 6/22/2014 6:48:55 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Very nice building.  Is it safe to ask why a concrete roof?
View Quote


I detest wood for construction after finding all the damage on the old farmhouse that I live in now. Concrete is stronger, durable, more secure, rot free and fireproof. All for close to the same cost as wood and shingle or steel roofing.
Link Posted: 6/22/2014 8:31:59 PM EDT
[#23]
He's as bad as can and he knows.
Link Posted: 6/22/2014 9:12:46 PM EDT
[#24]
Nice Work!!!
I can't wait to see the progress!
Link Posted: 6/23/2014 6:10:06 PM EDT
[#25]
you adding slope to the roof for runoff?
Link Posted: 6/23/2014 6:20:00 PM EDT
[#26]
Tag for build progress !
Link Posted: 6/23/2014 8:27:56 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
you adding slope to the roof for runoff?
View Quote



An inch over 13'-4" if I counted the block correctly.

Curious, Pangea- do you plan to seal the roof or use a piece of EPDM to control dampness?
Link Posted: 6/23/2014 8:39:49 PM EDT
[#28]
That roof looks like a death trap.

But, I know nothing about concrete roofing, so my post is just based upon looks alone.

TRG
Link Posted: 6/23/2014 10:02:47 PM EDT
[#29]
The slope is 1" over 13' 4" and I'm thinking about coating the roof with truck bed treatment. Something like the stuff that they spray on but I don't know for sure yet.
Link Posted: 6/23/2014 11:12:40 PM EDT
[#30]
I swear, your avatar makes me hear that voice every damn time I see it.

TRG
Link Posted: 6/25/2014 8:25:57 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The slope is 1" over 13' 4" and I'm thinking about coating the roof with truck bed treatment. Something like the stuff that they spray on but I don't know for sure yet.
View Quote



I've been following along with your progress.  We've thought about doing something similar for a few years but keep thinking that we'll move to another area so it's been in a holding pattern.  Having reloading powder in the house has always worried me.

In the back of my head I always thought that we would use EPDM over an insulated concrete roof deck.  In the FWIW department, I recently purchased a 20' x 50' roll of EPDM for about $500, don't know how that cost compares with the cost of the bed treatment product.  The excess EPDM is nice to have around for covering the wood pile or equipment that doesn't fit inside the outbuildings.

Good luck with your pour this week.
Link Posted: 6/25/2014 10:11:06 PM EDT
[#32]
Looks good, arf has me looking at spending money in every sub forum lol
Link Posted: 6/25/2014 10:25:32 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I swear, your avatar makes me hear that voice every damn time I see it.

TRG
View Quote


The roof will be fine the way he has it, will last a long time in the interior area the op has. Anything larger, may require a mid-span beam or 2.
Link Posted: 6/25/2014 10:30:41 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



I've been following along with your progress.  We've thought about doing something similar for a few years but keep thinking that we'll move to another area so it's been in a holding pattern.  Having reloading powder in the house has always worried me.

In the back of my head I always thought that we would use EPDM over an insulated concrete roof deck.  In the FWIW department, I recently purchased a 20' x 50' roll of EPDM for about $500, don't know how that cost compares with the cost of the bed treatment product.  The excess EPDM is nice to have around for covering the wood pile or equipment that doesn't fit inside the outbuildings.

Good luck with your pour this week.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
The slope is 1" over 13' 4" and I'm thinking about coating the roof with truck bed treatment. Something like the stuff that they spray on but I don't know for sure yet.



I've been following along with your progress.  We've thought about doing something similar for a few years but keep thinking that we'll move to another area so it's been in a holding pattern.  Having reloading powder in the house has always worried me.

In the back of my head I always thought that we would use EPDM over an insulated concrete roof deck.  In the FWIW department, I recently purchased a 20' x 50' roll of EPDM for about $500, don't know how that cost compares with the cost of the bed treatment product.  The excess EPDM is nice to have around for covering the wood pile or equipment that doesn't fit inside the outbuildings.

Good luck with your pour this week.


You had your ass handed to you on the roll of EPDM if only 35 mil. Same roll here is $369 or so for me. The excess is also great for a Koi pond or a slip and slide.
Link Posted: 6/25/2014 10:52:13 PM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


The roof will be fine the way he has it, will last a long time in the interior area the op has. Anything larger, may require a mid-span beam or 2.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I swear, your avatar makes me hear that voice every damn time I see it.

TRG


The roof will be fine the way he has it, will last a long time in the interior area the op has. Anything larger, may require a mid-span beam or 2.



My concrete man said that I wouldn't need any support inside for the roof but I'm putting a pole in the center because I'd rather over build than build to nominal.

I know, I know. Better is the nemesis of good enough.
Link Posted: 6/26/2014 6:47:34 AM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

You had your ass handed to you on the roll of EPDM if only 35 mil. Same roll here is $369 or so for me. The excess is also great for a Koi pond or a slip and slide.
View Quote


Great, don't know if I should be mad at the supplier or mad at you for making me feel like crap this morning
Link Posted: 6/27/2014 2:09:41 PM EDT
[#37]
More Pictures.
The concrete pump arrives.
" />
The Concrete Truck feeds the pump.
" />
Poured under the window first.
" />
Pouring the walls.
" />
Pouring the roof.
" />
The Boss inspects the work.
" />
Done.
" />

I placed two pieces of 3" PVC at opposite corners for passive vents. In two weeks i can wreck the forms and start my wiring and shelving.

11 yards of pump mix concrete, $1393.00. Concrete pump, 3 hours and charges for pumping 11 yards, $373.00. the guy taht did the pour and finish work didn't want to charge me anything so if he doesn't let me pay him some money I'm buying him a 1911 or a nice rifle.
Link Posted: 6/27/2014 2:27:28 PM EDT
[#38]
Looking good!

Can't wait to see it finished.
Link Posted: 6/27/2014 2:30:50 PM EDT
[#39]
Nice, and definitely get him something if he refuses $$$.
Link Posted: 6/28/2014 7:31:20 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I swear, your avatar makes me hear that voice every damn time I see it.

TRG
View Quote

Who, me?

That's what I hear.

OP, since you're already going balls out, please don't paint that concrete. Find a local roofer that can mop a single ply or a simple mid bit 2ply over the concrete. Simple gravel guard on all 4 sides and you'd be good to go.
Link Posted: 7/6/2014 2:49:10 PM EDT
[#41]
The roof is done and I pulled the outside forms off.
" />

I started taking down all of the loose stiffeners. Any of them that were hand loose got pulled.
" />

My Jellybean approves of the finish.
" />
Link Posted: 7/6/2014 3:18:48 PM EDT
[#42]
Such a cool project!  I may have to be a copy cat!

Please continue with the pics!!!
Link Posted: 7/8/2014 6:42:41 PM EDT
[#43]
Looks good and professional , Pangea.  Nice job of curing the concrete too.

Looking forward to more pics.
Link Posted: 7/12/2014 4:40:11 PM EDT
[#44]
Small update.  This might not look like much but it was a lot of work and money. 1/4" plate through the hole and framed around the opening.

1/2" round bar welded to the frame. Fitted the opening for the air conditioner and made it adjustable: with some effort, for a different air conditioner when this one craps out.
" />

I pitched the top bars so that I can use them to put a piece of steel roofing on them to keep any chance of water from coming in.

Tomorrow I will start pulling the inside forming down from the concrete pour.  If it doesn't fall on my head and kill me, I'll post some more pictures.
Link Posted: 7/12/2014 11:16:19 PM EDT
[#45]
Really turning out nice.
Link Posted: 7/13/2014 10:20:56 PM EDT
[#46]
Pulled the center forms out but left the ones on each side in place. Fabricated the "stripper pole" 9call it that to aggravate my wife).  i welded the top plate and gussets on in the shop and left the bottom plate and gussets off.  I cut the pole 1/16" short to make it easier to install. Used a plum bob to transfer the center mark on the floor to the ceiling and drilled and bolted the pole by it's top plate so it hung down plumb. Slid the bottom plate under it, screwed it down, and welded it and it's gussets in place. I use Tapcon screws.
" />

The pole is installed and ready for paint.
" />

The forms are down, the pole is painted and the floor is swept clean. I hope to paint tomorrow or Tuesday.
" />
" />

More pics in the next few days.
Link Posted: 7/14/2014 11:48:00 AM EDT
[#47]
SURE it there to hold the roof up....
If we see lasers, disco balls, and a fog machine in ANY PICS, we will know that this is NOT going to be what you say it is
Link Posted: 7/15/2014 9:39:30 PM EDT
[#48]
Inside walls are painted now.  Yesterday I put a heavy coat of Sherwin Williams Block Fill and today I put a coat of SW white eggshell. Probably put a coat on the ceiling too to help with lighting.
" />
Link Posted: 7/18/2014 6:45:16 AM EDT
[#49]
It's looking good, looks like it should be sealed up tight as a drum.
Link Posted: 7/19/2014 9:13:49 PM EDT
[#50]
Getting busy on my wiring. A 200 amp panel.  Not that it needs it, but I will nurse off of that panel for my workshop when I build it.
" />
Lots-o-light! I installed six, four foot double lamp fixtures because i like to see what I'm doing.
" />
" />
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