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Posted: 8/16/2012 2:25:45 AM
That looks like one of those cushioned ball mounts. If you know anyone with a press that's your ticket. Maybe some of the local machine shops would press it out at a reasonable price.
Good advice, try a local machine shop. Who knows, they may even do it for free! |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 8:28:27 PM
Victory!
Here is pics of the sumbitch. You can see the numerous holes I drilled, and the host of broken punches and drill bits. I pretty much drilled away as much of the material as I could, torched it frequently and hammered it through one side. I've been pounding on it for 2 days- neighbor came out and complained about the noise at one point. I thought about asking if she wanted to play the part of the 20 ton press, but thought better of it...
Now, any great ideas on stripping the paint and rust to prep for new paint?
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Posted: 8/17/2012 11:38:21 AM
[Last Edit: 8/17/2012 11:39:12 AM by Trollslayer]
Originally Posted By crag_dt:
Now, any great ideas on stripping the paint and rust to prep for new paint? Assuming you don't have a grit blaster, strip the old paint by power sanding (grinding wheel with flapper wheel thingie, orbital sander,... not by hand). I have to say it again - oxalic acid will eat that rust. The steel will come out of the bath shiny grey. It does not hurt the steel at all. Naval jelly sucks, oxalic acid WORKS! Paint the bare steel with self-etching primer followed by two-part epoxy paint from an auto parts store. Failing that, get one part epoxy paint from th ehardware store. Powder coating would be best but is not a DIY project. I hope this helps. Do you have a source to buy a replacement pin? |
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Posted: 8/17/2012 11:53:17 AM
wire wheel on a drill. dont forget eye protection. give it hell and dont worry if there is a little paint left. if its still on there after hitting it with the wire wheel then it has good adhesion and will be just fine as a base for the new coat of paint.
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Posted: 8/17/2012 12:02:40 PM
[Last Edit: 8/17/2012 12:08:36 PM by fal72con]
Cobalt drill bits, slow drill speed, heavy pressure and lots of lube. Keep stepping up in size from each end of the pin. Once you have drilled out all the pin material holding the hitch in the mount tube, it should drop/drive out. Then you can take it to the press to drive out the pin or put enough heat on the pin to break it free. Trying either press or heat while it's still stuck in the tube is futile.
Well crap. Didn't notice there was a second page until I posted. Congrats. I like a knotted wire brush wheel in my 4 1/2" grinder for cleanup. I have two setups- one is a cup wheel and the other is a flat wheel. |
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Posted: 8/17/2012 2:32:37 PM
I know you guys are recommending wire wheels but I don't care for them. To each his own and whatever works. Usually, it comes down to what you have on hand, already.
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Posted: 8/17/2012 3:54:08 PM
Originally Posted By Trollslayer:
Originally Posted By crag_dt:
Now, any great ideas on stripping the paint and rust to prep for new paint? I have to say it again - oxalic acid will eat that rust. The steel will come out of the bath shiny grey. It does not hurt the steel at all. Naval jelly sucks, oxalic acid WORKS! Do you have a source to buy a replacement pin? Is the oxalic acid something I can get at an auto store/hardware store? I had one of those cup wire wheels that I used for a few minutes last night. Wasnt overly impressed with the results. I think I may try one of the wheel style or probably the acid bath. And I plan on getting basically the same style of pin. Do you guys have a recommendation for me? I don't think I really need one of the locking style. |
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Posted: 8/17/2012 11:05:26 PM
Oxalic acid is sold as wood bleach in hardware stores. You may also find it in bulk as oxalic acid.
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Posted: 8/19/2012 1:04:05 PM
I know it's a little late to consider this, but if you had it to do over again, I suspect that buying a new hitch would have been 'cheaper'.
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