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What the french, toast?
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Posted: 10/12/2010 1:52:18 PM EST
Generally speaking, what kind of cost can I expect for an electrician to come in and add a new light fixture (customer-supplied) to my living room. I currently have no overhead light in there at all and would like a ceiling fan/light installed in the center of the ceiling area. I currently have a light switch box with 3 switches in it, so I'm assuming the electrician will have to remove that and install a 4-switch box. He'll then have to run the wire from that box into the attic and down through the ceiling.

Any ideas what I can expect to pay for someone to do this?
The above posting is of my own opinion and is not representative of any other entity other than myself.
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Link Posted: 10/12/2010 5:51:20 PM EST
Originally Posted By roboman:
Generally speaking, what kind of cost can I expect for an electrician to come in and add a new light fixture (customer-supplied) to my living room. I currently have no overhead light in there at all and would like a ceiling fan/light installed in the center of the ceiling area. I currently have a light switch box with 3 switches in it, so I'm assuming the electrician will have to remove that and install a 4-switch box. He'll then have to run the wire from that box into the attic and down through the ceiling.

Any ideas what I can expect to pay for someone to do this?


$200-$400 would be my guess.

Electrician would have to supply ceiling box, 4 gang old work box, switch, switch plate and wire.


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Link Posted: 10/13/2010 4:47:35 AM EST
They do make switchs that can do 2 things per 1 location.
Exe. A light switch as well as fan speed in one device.

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Link Posted: 10/13/2010 4:55:19 AM EST
We are having a similar thing done in our masterbath. No over head light, no access from the attic. Wiring, box, switch and we are supplying the fixture, $375 is what we were quoted for install and drywall repatch.
Just like your credit report, it is your responsibility to fix it and not the bank's. And it's definately not my responsibility to fix your arrest record.

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Link Posted: 10/13/2010 9:43:16 AM EST
couple hundred bucks tops, if it requires running new wire.

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Link Posted: 10/13/2010 12:31:10 PM EST
If there is no fixture and you want a switch also it can be really easy or a PITA depending on the ceiling joist direction and where ou can pull power from.

An attic above makes it very easy.

Joist in the correct direct but no atic a little more work to fish wires.

Across the joists more holes and some flex bits to reduce the number of holes (more time).

You are likely to need to learn how to repair drywall if you do not know already.


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Link Posted: 10/16/2010 5:59:39 AM EST
Originally Posted By brickeyee:
If there is no fixture and you want a switch also it can be really easy or a PITA depending on the ceiling joist direction and where ou can pull power from.

An attic above makes it very easy.

Joist in the correct direct but no atic a little more work to fish wires.

Across the joists more holes and some flex bits to reduce the number of holes (more time).

You are likely to need to learn how to repair drywall if you do not know already.



That will save you some money.

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Link Posted: 10/16/2010 6:05:36 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/16/2010 6:06:53 AM EST by Delta]
When I do it, I used to charge 175-200 depending on the time of year.

For that you get the new wire and switch, fan rated box, everything!

Takes about 2.5 hours
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What the french, toast?
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Link Posted: 10/16/2010 6:46:59 AM EST
Originally Posted By Delta:
When I do it, I used to charge 175-200 depending on the time of year.

For that you get the new wire and switch, fan rated box, everything!

Takes about 2.5 hours


I know this is a dumb question, but how do you get the wires out of the panel, up the wall, and into the attic? Wouldn't you need to tear down a ton of drywall?
The above posting is of my own opinion and is not representative of any other entity other than myself.
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Link Posted: 10/16/2010 7:25:05 AM EST
Originally Posted By roboman:
Originally Posted By Delta:
When I do it, I used to charge 175-200 depending on the time of year.

For that you get the new wire and switch, fan rated box, everything!

Takes about 2.5 hours


I know this is a dumb question, but how do you get the wires out of the panel, up the wall, and into the attic? Wouldn't you need to tear down a ton of drywall?


The switchbox on the wall right now is currently fed. I wouldn't think adding one more light would exceed the capacity of the circuit it's on. So basically here is how it would work if you had an attic overhead:

The electrician would remove the 3 gang box currently in the wall and replace it with a 4 gang old work box. Then he would install the proper workbox in the ceiling. If you are just doing a light ficture he could probably use and old workbox. If you are doing something heavier he would need a rated box attached to the joist. Eiter way that should be very easy with attic acess. He would then drill a hole through the wall plate from the attic and snake the wire down and into the switch box, where the switch and light would be fed from. The other end of the wire would go to the light box. With enough attic acess there should be no need for any drywall repair. But without seeing the job I have no way to know for certain.

Best thing to do is call a local electrician and get a quote. Because there is only so much advice someone can give you over the internet and regional pricing varies.

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Link Posted: 10/16/2010 7:54:02 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/16/2010 7:57:39 AM EST by brickeyee]
Originally Posted By roboman:
Originally Posted By Delta:
When I do it, I used to charge 175-200 depending on the time of year.

For that you get the new wire and switch, fan rated box, everything!

Takes about 2.5 hours


I know this is a dumb question, but how do you get the wires out of the panel, up the wall, and into the attic? Wouldn't you need to tear down a ton of drywall?


Drill up from the basement, down from the attic, use longer bits for any blocking.

I have flex bits 60 inches long, and extensions 60 inches long.

My longest rigid bit is 48 inches, and extensions are 24 inches each.

Low RPM HoleHawg type drills.

It comes down to how hard it is to repair the wall.

For drywall there is little reason to go to great lengths if there is no texturing present.

For plaster it may be worth some extra effort, but even plaster is not that hard to repair using modern techniques and setting compound (NOT pre-mixed drywall mud).

Textured plaster can be enough work to duplicate to make more work on fishing wires reasonable.





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