I have two PCs for gaming, that are nearly identical.  PC#1 is typically connected to my bigscreen, and PC#2 is connected to a 27" monitor that gets moved around the room quite a bit.  We will set it on the coffee table or another table, etc...  so my wife and I can kick it on the couch and play co-op games together.

But sometimes I switch it up.  Sometimes it's just me and I want to play PC#1 on the small screen, while my wife watches TV on the bigscreen, or similar.  Sometimes I want both monitors connected to the same PC so I can work on two screens.

I'm constantly reaching behind the PCs to re-arrange the cables.

What I need is something like a splitter... but it's a splitter for both Input and Output.  Everything I've found so far that has multiple inputs and outputs simply lets you pick which input to use, and it just sends that one input to all the outputs the same.  I need something that will let me pick Input 1 goes to Output 3, and Input 2 goes to Output 4.  Like I called it above... a switchboard.. to move the signal from one input to any given output, while another input goes to one of the other outputs.  All in one switching unit.

Do you guys know of anything like that?

I believe that an HDMI matrix switcher would do what you're looking for.

They come in different configurations and price levels.

One example:


https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011310&p_id=5704&seq=1&format=2

I have a 4x1 Monoprice switcher and it works fantastically.

Be warned though, some models (like mine) have LEDs bright enough to be nightlights.

Thank you for the feedback

What kind of signal loss do you guys think I can expect through something like that?

The monoprice HDMI switches are really good.  I have two of them and never had any issues with either of them.

However, both of them are 1080P switches with a max bandwidth of like 7Mbps.  I don't have any experience with their high speed switches as I use the HDMI section in the Marantz for 4K HDR duties.  I do know the one I have will pass 3D without issue.

I've been using the older version of that switch for a few years now.  I haven't noticed any difference in the picture when I connect the projector directly to the source.