Looks like Algae in the diesel. You need to get some Bio Kleen and treat some fresh fuel with it and get it killed.

I've only seen it once in a generator set that sat for a while. Turned the fuel to sludge.

Anybody use a scope at work? We have a picoscope 4425 at work for vibrations. Software was free so I downloaded it on my laptop and ordered some leads today.

I still run my otc solarity.  Used it today to help out a stumped tech.  Drive train can brought down by a fuel pump control unit.  Dvom reads voltage, but it's basically useless.  You need to see the can activity.  It was flattened.  Removed connections from bus bar until normal pattern appeared.  Took five minutes.

I have a tricky one for you all. I have a 1974 Dodge Challenger and it has been, challenging. The car when I bought it was a shell. I put a 440 with a 4 speed in it. I bought all new wiring harnesses for it. Went to start it yesterday for the first time and I got a no crank condition. I had the wiring schematics out tracing everything down. Turns out I am not getting power on the ignition wire to the starter solenoid. There is no interior in it. Turns out 1974 is the only year to have seat belt interlocks on it where if you are in the seat and the seat belt is not latched it will not start. Seeing how there is no interior in there I can see how this might be an issue. What am I missing on getting it started? Any help would be appreciated.

Do you have the schematic where you can post it here for us to see? It should be able to be bypassed, just have to see the diagram.

Unless you're going for a completely perfect restoration I would bypass that feature anyway. Probably a simple 2 wire circuit on a car that old. Possibly even 1 wire if the seat belt clicker grounds the wire to let a relay close or something like that.

All I have are these two schematics.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74ChallengerA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74ChallengerB.JPG

.

Looks to me like this may be the seat belt buckle.

Put a jumper wire across the backside of the connector to jump the connection and see if this does what you need it to do.

If it does, cut the wires and butt connector them together or solder them and shrink tube them.


Attached File

Looks like this supplies power to the seat belt relay which then switches power to a starter relay maybe?

Without knowing what this is, it's possible you might be able to jumper this or change the power supply to this circuit to a switched power or wire a relay in to supply it.


Attached File

That's the problem, there is no interior in the car right now.

There may not be an interior but the wires still have to be laying or tied up somewhere. Find the ones for the seatbelt clicker and jump them.

Peterbilt Tech checking in, Hi guys

When I bought the car it was just a shell as the former owner was turning it into a drag car. He pretty much removed everything he could including wiring and what wiring he left he cut up. That leads me to where I am today.

You said you had new wiring harnesses for it.

I did for all of them that they sell which isn't all of them. Everything under the hood is new for wiring. The dash, heater box, rear lights, and front lights are also new wiring harnesses. No one sells the seat wiring harness along with the small circuit board for it, or the relay under the hood that has the reset switch on it. I did get it started. It was the yellow wire with white tracer. That was the signal wire from the seat belt deal.

Tried out the shops picoscope 4425 today. Had to borrow some leads from a buddy at my previous dealership. 07 Silverado 5.3 no start. Just cranks. Died on the customer who bought it 14 days ago. Customer replaced the cam or crank sensor. Writer couldn't remember what he said. It sounds like it jumped time. I'm going to try and figure out the other compression test in the morning and sync it to figure out which cylinders it is with the scope first.

Attached File

GM sent all the dealers this scope for use with their vibration software.. I'm buying some cables and stuff to be able to use it with picos free software. If I can figure out how to use it and if it's as useful as I think and read about it being I'll buy my own. This one is $1250 from aes wave.

Left training center at about 3pm and drove 7.25 hours home last night.  

They made a point with a new e class.  A very scary point.  The networking is so extensive, that even a very minor issue with the vehicle will seriously cripple unrelated functions.  

They give a bugged car with "no sound" as the complaint.  

Turns out keyless GO doesn't work.  Remote entry doesn't work.  360 camera doesn't work.  Headlights come on and off at random.  Has FM displayed on radio, will not play audio from any source, no Sirius or AM selection possible.  Multiple fault codes for various things, including a MOST ring failure and shows the coding for the ring components isn't correct.  

I begin by running a MOST wakeup line test.  Sound amp not coded but does respond.  Tuner unit coded but does not respond.  Start to chase a ghost when I realize the car doesn't utilize a tuner, its integrated in to the head unit.  We get nowhere with the MOST ring so we begin chasing the keyless entry issue.  The Keyless GO, keyless entry, FM tuner all share a common antenna amplifier.  We find the power wire removed.  We fixed it.  The keyless entry and keyless GO system begin working.  Everything else is still failed.  We clear fault codes, there are none.  Yet nothing works.  We pull a fuse to reset the Comand unit, no dice.  Do a reset with diagnostic software, nothing.  Restart MOST ring.  Nothing.  This goes on for a while.  We chase various other things until the instructor fessed up.  There was only one problem.  It was already fixed.  The car has to be "rebooted" or it is basically locked in a mode where it refused to recognize that it is capable of functioning again.  He has no explanation other than they know this happens and you have to disconnect the battery for ten minutes and the entire car will restart and it will work again.  

So apparently its running windows, and apparently even a minor fault somewhere will cause some incredibly odd symptoms that are completely unrelated.  Choose your battles wisely.

Who in their right might would ever think that is acceptable?!

Another reason I'll never buy European.

Germans are getting the world back

spent the afternoon fixing all the shit that's been wrong with my jeep but i've been ignoring

rear brakes - leaking axle seal just repaired so all that needed to be done was rotors and pads
2 front shocks
front lower control arm that had a bushing wallowed out
front wheel bearing
and front cv shaft that was starting to pop while turning

cost me $500 in parts from napa and an afternoon of cussing. Anyone with a shop, what would you price that work on for a 2003 jeep grand cherokee?


drives much nicer now that its not bouncing around, grinding during braking, groaning and popping during turns, and creaking while going over bumps

Wouldn't let you bring it into my shop.  I work on the german crap, not the american crap.

fair enough. I'm skeered to work on german crap

anyone ELSE then?

Fpni

what does that equate to in money and parts markup?

and for the axles, they just pulled out, no c clips or opening the diff

that's kind of what I was figuring. The mechanics around me are 100-125 for labor.

I think I just justified buying a ruger gp100

It's already happening with vehicles over here. An International Prostar or any International for that matter. If you put a 250KB device on a 500KB can bus or a 500KB on a 250KB can bus it will freak the system out. Even if you remove it half of the truck will not work. You have to cut power to the truck for 20 minutes to reset everything. The truck will start, radio will not work, half of the dash gauges will not work, with an automated truck will attempt to go into gear but will not, and it will give the must activate HVAC blower warning on the lcd display. First time it happens to you it will confuse you and you will try to trouble shoot things that have only one thing in common, datalink. The second time you will look at it and go disconnect the batteries. It has become routine to me. Now with the split CAN vehicles coming out it will be even more interesting to diagnosis because it is not standard in the industry. Some truck manufactures are going 250kb on the dash and other are going 500kb on the dash.

My view for the week. Gulf shores Alabama

Attached File

Resealed the cylinders on a D6d for a 92yr old WW2 vet today.
Attached File

Cool

Good job.

I've been working with a young guy who started over a year ago in the sprinter shop.  There isn't enough work to support him, and we are moving him over to the passenger car side of things.  It keeps him busy, utilizes a resource and he seems much happier now.  He will be dual certified like me and just go wherever he is needed.

I couldn't find my clutch alignment tool for flat head fords. So I took the bellhousing off and used the transmission as a line up tool.

I've eyeballed the last few clutches I put in. I guess I like to live dangerously.

Good.  Motivated workers want to know that there is always more work to be done.

BMW comes in with radiator fan codes about a month ago.  These are electric fans.  And a known issue.  No problem, we swap the fan out, take for test drive and give it back.  Fan was out of town and we had to order in, took a week to do a 1.2 hr job.  We give it back and it comes back tuesday the next week.  Woo hoo boomerang!  It has a fan code again.  This time its a different code than the two that were in it the first time.  So I test it again.  I have power, ground and signal (probably should have spent a little more one on one with the signal but there are no specs on it).  So, bad fan.  Fuck order another.  It comes in, goes into the vehicle on Monday the week following.  Same codes.  But even better, I am out of town.  So my apprentice is texting and calling constantly doing tests for me.  But somethings need to be done in person.  I get back in on Thursday.  Spend all afternoon testing and thankfully have another of the same DME to compare signals on.  Nope, bad signal from the DME.  So I expose the bad fan car DME and check signal right at the source.  Nope, still bad.  Fuck.  Needs a new DME.  It's now friday and I order one from the dealer.  It's out in NJ so its going to be monday before it gets here.  Monday comes, no DME.  We call on Tuesday.  Oh, its not here we will check on it.  Yup, should be there friday.  Why not monday?  They just don't know.  Friday comes and low and behold NO DME.  WTF BMW?  Well...  it looks like it was ordered, and BMW of NA cancelled the order.  So we ordered it again and BMW of NA cancelled it again.  It really is coming this time and should be arriving on FedEx on monday.  I start holding my breath right there waiting.


We damn, it did show up today.  But...  oh you will like this.  The fucking thing is I believe the wrong damn DME.  There are two possible DME part numbers and this one doesn't match the one in the car.  But anyways, I plug it in because you know it might have been a superseded part number.  Nope.  No communication what so ever with the DME.  My programmer says check fuses.  Dash lights up like a Christmas tree, windshield wipers going like crazy, transmission error, brake error, cruise control error, and many many more.  Call the dealer and now we start waiting.  


Fuck me, I get to call the customer and try to explain... again... what is happening.  At this point it already sounds like BS to me, I doubt he thinks it is anything but total horse shit.

Down the hill at the BMW dealer (shit rolls downhill), a porter reached in through the window to crank up a five series.  It was in gear.  It started.  It removed the giant rolling garage door that was in its way.  Somebody is having a case of the Mondays.

Wiring repair. Decided to see if I could still solder instead of using the shrink tube butt connectors

Attached File


Attached File



Thank you autozone for the work.


That free install wasn't so free. This cable was rubbing the water pump pulley in reverse and popping the ecm fuse.


Attached File



And this little test.

Not today ISIS

Attached File

Condenser replacement according to service information. This was my first one so I went by the book. I figured out some cheats though.

Attached File

what tool is that with the alligator clips built in? man that thing would come in handy a lot! I have a crappy little stand with clips that sucks.

It's magnetic. It works great.

Link

thanks! ordered it up

I have the little magnetic one AND this one because I might need either one or both at any time.

Also mount either one to a dial gauge mount if needed.

AC machine, is it ok to lay on its side for transport? I know a refrigerator you are not suppose to.

I did.  Still works fine.

Plus one on this, especially for a bench and the magnifying glass helps as well.  It's also possible to put it on a surface in the car, it's heavy so it won't move on you.

Awesome. Work won't let us bring personal vehicles in and work on them after hours but they will let us take the tools home and work on them there. All about insurance I guess.