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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:46:47 AM EDT
So unfortunately my 1942 Chevy project has been dead in the water due to a title issue. Dang me for moving to a midwestern state with draconian title laws.
So fuck it. Let's build a Model A. Because I won't have title issues with it. Here is the goal for this project. It is not going to be a rat rod. But it also is not going to be a fully built custom street rod either. Nor will it be pre 1960's fully traditional. I am planning this one out to be a reliable driver, that is fast (It weighs nothing and will have a V8) but at the same time is decent to drive on the highway since I live in the middle of fucking nowhere. So V8, and 5 speed, with a decent rear end. No drum brakes, and might even go with a manual rack and pinion (Sacre Bleu!) to make steering actually safe and fun. So ya, in no way will this car be HAMB friendly, but it also won't fit in with the KillBillet crowd very much, because I do want it to look decent and even have a windshield (No cow horns though!). So what do we have RIGHT MEOW? Got a frame second hand for $300, well i traded shit worth $300 but whatever. It was made by Last Refuge Hotrod out of Dolores, CO. It was rusty. I put some black spray paint on it for now to stop it from being ugly. I'll eventually have to knock off the surface rust and re paint it. Eventually. Here it is, strapped to the top of my Yukon. Who says you need a trailer? Shit is over rated.  Attached FileNext up, I have a buddy, he likes cars. His wife doesn't. Sucks to be him. I got a Speedway Drop Tube front Axle, wishbones, disc brakes, spindle, spring, etc from him. Like $1200 bucks from speedway. I got a good deal on it. Once again, though. Fucking rusty.  Attached FileAnd here is where we are at tonight. I swept the garage and piled parts in the corner!  Attached FileAs you can see I am using zip ties to hold the front Wish Bones in place. Why, Because the Heim Joints are different sized the tabs that came on the frame. We will fix that later. So I decided I'd let ARFCOM help me build this. Make a few decisions. Blah blah. there will be polls and shit. I reserve the executive privilege to do whatever I want however. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:54:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bye_Felicia]
[#1]
Going to turn this post into the Money Spent post;
Frame: $300 in trade goods Front End: $600 Speedway 7/19: $282.41 2 sets of SBC heads: $60 Vega Hot rod box: $80 Tudor Body: $400 9in Rear End: $100 |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:03:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bye_Felicia]
[#2]
Going with the Tudor Body.
Place Holder Now. |
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USA
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:10:07 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Now something to discuss is the body. I currently have two options. Tudor. Rusty (Shocked I know) Or Fordor Steelback Body (rusty) that is in pieces. Now look, I am not going to build a more door hot rod. But, I thought to myself "Self, you could build an extended cab pickup with that body" So ya, I'd use the front doors as is, B pillar, and then pull the rear section in and use the old rear doors as donor metal to fill in the rear of the 'Cab' This is only an option because if you've ever been in a Model A pickup that has been chopped you know they are uncomfortable. I really don't know if I want to do this. Beds are expensive and look stupid, and honestly, kinda on the very edge of my skill level. Stock Pics: Tudor; http://www.mafca.com/photos/28-tudor2.jpg Fordor; http://model-a-ford.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/stories60B1-web.jpg |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:25:06 AM EDT
[#4]
Ive always been partial to 5 windows. I have a 30/31 that has been "in progress" since 2006. In all honesty don't have the time and will likely never finish it.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:55:14 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 6:48:45 AM EDT
[#6]
Definitely fenders and for God's sake don't cross-breed the fucking thing.
Put a Ford motor in it. |
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AR, USA
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Posted: 7/16/2017 10:02:09 AM EDT
[#7]
No fenders
No lemming v8 or v6 with the exception of a gmc 305 v6 It needs to have something weird for power. A Kubota diesel, an air Cooled Volkswagen in the front, some straight 6 or 8, a Deutz air Cooled diesel a Mazda rotary, something 2 stroke or even a liter bike engine, a dodge slant 6, an international 1/2 or full v8 For gods sake anything but a boring "well it needed some kind of motor" ford, Chevy Chrysler v8 |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 1:44:14 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Flat head wouldn't even be boring and traditional anymore because everyone throws in ohv motors. "boring, and traditional" would be the SBC, reverse flow turbo flathed. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 1:50:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Fenders
Go for broke. 427 FE |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 1:59:32 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ZekeMenuar:
Fenders Go for broke. 427 FE |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 2:02:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ZekeMenuar]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
427FE would be wild and awesome. Alsas, unlike most of ARFCOM I am not a man of a lot of means. The motor will be something I have or can source cheaply. Not to mention a 427FE wouldn't be much of a driver. Or who knows, maybe someone will wreck a custom Mustang or Cobra in the area and I can black mail the tow driver into giving me the motor? Cause that is the only way that is happening. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By ZekeMenuar:
Fenders Go for broke. 427 FE 
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AR, USA
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Posted: 7/16/2017 2:21:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Krochus]
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Just seems like everyone and their brother is putting flat heads in stuff these days. And the GM SBC is now a pharaoh. Whatever I choose it has to be something I can buy parts for at some random small town parts store. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. You will not need any parts but if you did you could get them anywhere Plus if geared right it'd probably get 40 mpg |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 2:32:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#13]
Is that a TCI frame? I ask, because that is how TCI does their rear cross member.
There is some TCI under here: 
Need coilovers? I have some that leak but still ride pretty well. I can get them to you for just shipping. I also have a HD ford 9 inch truck housing I need gone but I don't see what state you are in. The earlier smooth housings look better but are horsepower/torque limited. I also have a low mileage 3.00 gearset from Currie that I will never use, if you are only doing a 3 speed auto or 4 speed manual (no OD) without super tall tires. Although almost cliche and boring, you cannot beat the smallblock 350 for dollar per horsepower and pure simplicity. It is when you overthink these things that they become a nightmare. I may have missed it, but what body are you going with? That is the wife's purple Model A. 300hp crate motor, 700R4 with 3.73 and Detroit True Trac. It was run with a turbo 350 and the 3.00 gears and then the 700r4 with same gears and it ran very well. It is now pretty snappy with the 3.73. I would recommend no steeper than 3.50 with overdrive and a shorter tire. Two of my later builds have overdrive and 3.89 posi and 31 inch tall tires which seems about perfect. These are some of the difficult early decisions, so I just figured I would throw that out there. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 3:05:19 PM EDT
[#14]
This one was built in California in the late fifties. The last time anything major was modified was when it was painted red in 1970. I bought it from the second owner and talked to the the original builder shortly after I bought it. It has a Z'ed A frame and 1941 Mercury running gear with a Zephyr transmission. The seat is from an MGTD and the parking brake is a WWII aircraft flap control that stil has zinc chromate paint on it.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 3:27:49 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Just seems like everyone and their brother is putting flat heads in stuff these days. And the GM SBC is now a pharaoh. Whatever I choose it has to be something I can buy parts for at some random small town parts store. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. The earlier 7m motors like in my car though, can be found cheap, and some people even give them away. The 6m version is carbed. Plus Toyota did an ok job standardizing stuff, so parts are stupid cheap. 7m's are tricky in that they are tough when built, but have special needs like proper head gasket torque, and if wailed on, good oiling. Light duty they can just be overfilled up to a quart over. (I only do half) low oil is spun bearing city. The Toyota 1uz motors are also tough, affordable, and aluminum and pretty light. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:32:04 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wildearp:
Is that a TCI frame? I ask, because that is how TCI does their rear cross member. There is some TCI under here: http://i68.tinypic.com/2mwhyj6.jpg Need coilovers? I have some that leak but still ride pretty well. I can get them to you for just shipping. I also have a HD ford 9 inch truck housing I need gone but I don't see what state you are in. The earlier smooth housings look better but are horsepower/torque limited. I also have a low mileage 3.00 gearset from Currie that I will never use, if you are only doing a 3 speed auto or 4 speed manual (no OD) without super tall tires. Although almost cliche and boring, you cannot beat the smallblock 350 for dollar per horsepower and pure simplicity. It is when you overthink these things that they become a nightmare. I may have missed it, but what body are you going with? That is the wife's purple Model A. 300hp crate motor, 700R4 with 3.73 and Detroit True Trac. It was run with a turbo 350 and the 3.00 gears and then the 700r4 with same gears and it ran very well. It is now pretty snappy with the 3.73. I would recommend no steeper than 3.50 with overdrive and a shorter tire. Two of my later builds have overdrive and 3.89 posi and 31 inch tall tires which seems about perfect. These are some of the difficult early decisions, so I just figured I would throw that out there. I can't decided on which body, I've got two to choose from. But am leaning really heavy towards the Tudor for simplicity and cool factor. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:33:19 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RobertL:
This one was built in California in the late fifties. The last time anything major was modified was when it was painted red in 1970. I bought it from the second owner and talked to the the original builder shortly after I bought it. It has a Z'ed A frame and 1941 Mercury running gear with a Zephyr transmission. The seat is from an MGTD and the parking brake is a WWII aircraft flap control that stil has zinc chromate paint on it. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/67156/IMG-0158-247789.jpg |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:34:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Bye_Felicia]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Some people are starting to put Toyota 2jz I6 motors in hotrods, super easy power with a turbo, 500+ with bolt ons, 1000+ with full builds. The earlier 7m motors like in my car though, can be found cheap, and some people even give them away. The 6m version is carbed. Plus Toyota did an ok job standardizing stuff, so parts are stupid cheap. 7m's are tricky in that they are tough when built, but have special needs like proper head gasket torque, and if wailed on, good oiling. Light duty they can just be overfilled up to a quart over. (I only do half) low oil is spun bearing city. The Toyota 1uz motors are also tough, affordable, and aluminum and pretty light. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. The earlier 7m motors like in my car though, can be found cheap, and some people even give them away. The 6m version is carbed. Plus Toyota did an ok job standardizing stuff, so parts are stupid cheap. 7m's are tricky in that they are tough when built, but have special needs like proper head gasket torque, and if wailed on, good oiling. Light duty they can just be overfilled up to a quart over. (I only do half) low oil is spun bearing city. The Toyota 1uz motors are also tough, affordable, and aluminum and pretty light. Do you know if those(2jz) require the computer/ECM from a donor car? |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:44:16 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
I don't know shit about those motors. I know the 22RE and the 5vz-fe well because of the 4 runners and pickups I've had. Do you know if those(2jz) require the computer/ECM from a donor car? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. The earlier 7m motors like in my car though, can be found cheap, and some people even give them away. The 6m version is carbed. Plus Toyota did an ok job standardizing stuff, so parts are stupid cheap. 7m's are tricky in that they are tough when built, but have special needs like proper head gasket torque, and if wailed on, good oiling. Light duty they can just be overfilled up to a quart over. (I only do half) low oil is spun bearing city. The Toyota 1uz motors are also tough, affordable, and aluminum and pretty light. Do you know if those(2jz) require the computer/ECM from a donor car? Plus they sound incredible. (both the 7m and 2j) |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:51:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
They do, or many use stand alone ecu's. It's why I'm staying with a 7m for now, everyone swaps 7m's for the 1jz or 2jz so 7mstuff can be had for cheap, and in some cases just given away, up to even built motors. Plus ecu's and wiring harnesses are easy to get. But, either way, it's stone simple set ups for either, imagine a 22re, with two more cylinders and a shit ton stronger motor (2j). Plus they sound incredible. (both the 7m and 2j) Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. The earlier 7m motors like in my car though, can be found cheap, and some people even give them away. The 6m version is carbed. Plus Toyota did an ok job standardizing stuff, so parts are stupid cheap. 7m's are tricky in that they are tough when built, but have special needs like proper head gasket torque, and if wailed on, good oiling. Light duty they can just be overfilled up to a quart over. (I only do half) low oil is spun bearing city. The Toyota 1uz motors are also tough, affordable, and aluminum and pretty light. Do you know if those(2jz) require the computer/ECM from a donor car? Plus they sound incredible. (both the 7m and 2j) |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 4:57:08 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
I'll inquire around if someone has a older supra lying around, or one they swapped the motor in. I'm intrigued, and it will drive people nuts. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. The earlier 7m motors like in my car though, can be found cheap, and some people even give them away. The 6m version is carbed. Plus Toyota did an ok job standardizing stuff, so parts are stupid cheap. 7m's are tricky in that they are tough when built, but have special needs like proper head gasket torque, and if wailed on, good oiling. Light duty they can just be overfilled up to a quart over. (I only do half) low oil is spun bearing city. The Toyota 1uz motors are also tough, affordable, and aluminum and pretty light. Do you know if those(2jz) require the computer/ECM from a donor car? Plus they sound incredible. (both the 7m and 2j) But yea, stuff like that dos drive people nuts, it's great, and it's my new favorite type of car on the scene, the hatermaker.  Where things are SO WRONG they're right.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:28:38 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Cool beans! The motors came in a few different things as well, 2j's get imported a lot out of aristo's/ and domestically come out of lexus cars as well. But yea, stuff like that dos drive people nuts, it's great, and it's my new favorite type of car on the scene, the hatermaker. Where things are SO WRONG they're right.Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Originally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
First Poll is up. Fenders or No Fenders? I have a nice set of original fenders and running boards from a previous project. Use em or sell em? No fenders kinda define the hot rod thing but.... Drive train. So the frame has GM SBC motor mounts already welded on. I like easy. However here is the options. Ford 302 and an AOD out of a 88 Crown Vic. It would get converted to a carb, but would be a 4 speed auto. And stay Blue Oval (that's the motor on the pallet in the back ground) GM SBC with either a Saginaw 4 speed, or an NV3500 5 speed I also have a GM V6 out of an 84 pickup, same trannies can be made to work with it Or God forbid we want to be boring, and traditional. I have a running Flat Head that I traded away and then ended up with again, plus a ton of spare parts. I'd have to source a T5 for it. reverse flow turbo flathed. My other wild thoughts where: Toyota 22RE with a turbo or SC (Inline 4 w/ 5 speed) 4BT (I'd have to go the truck route) Ford Inline 4 outta something already RWD that I can slap a turbo on. I want something that is a driver, an honestly, flatheads are not distance drivers with any kind of real power. Parts (Water pumps!) are just too hard to source at random places. Same reason I don't want to get a Nail Head, or other rare V8. The earlier 7m motors like in my car though, can be found cheap, and some people even give them away. The 6m version is carbed. Plus Toyota did an ok job standardizing stuff, so parts are stupid cheap. 7m's are tricky in that they are tough when built, but have special needs like proper head gasket torque, and if wailed on, good oiling. Light duty they can just be overfilled up to a quart over. (I only do half) low oil is spun bearing city. The Toyota 1uz motors are also tough, affordable, and aluminum and pretty light. Do you know if those(2jz) require the computer/ECM from a donor car? Plus they sound incredible. (both the 7m and 2j) But yea, stuff like that dos drive people nuts, it's great, and it's my new favorite type of car on the scene, the hatermaker. Where things are SO WRONG they're right. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:35:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Not what the OP asked but I have got to believe some of the newer turbo V6 rigs in a light roadster would be tear assed.
Yeah I know everybody loves the four speeds but some of the newer autos that have 6 or more speeds would be pretty crazy. Thing is you would have so much power in a light rig the thing would have to be built carefully to handle right. Some of the roadsters I have seen have all the grace of a wheel barrow and handle about the same. Lots of interesting power plants out there these days. Heck,I graduated high school in 1972 , half the engines they put in socker moms suvs today make way more power than anything we saw on the street in 72 |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:40:19 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nhsport:
Thing is you would have so much power in a light rig the thing would have to be built carefully to handle right. Some of the roadsters I have seen have all the grace of a wheel barrow and handle about the same. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:47:20 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Ultimately the goal with this is going to be an enjoyable driver. So I'm willing to do something off like a Supra motor, as long as it'll all fit and won't break the bank. Not what I would do, but an example; (I would leave that top cover off and try to make the motor look a little more vintage)  2jz 1931 Ford Model A Rat Rod |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 6:03:11 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Fit... idk, reliable daily driver? A naturally aspirated 6m (carbs) from a mk2 supra, 7m (fuel injected) from a mk 3 or cressida would be cheap as dirt, and a good once over pretty darn reliable. A 2jz would cost a little more, but be stone cold reliable. Plus, in that light of car, all three motors would scoot even NA. Also, transmissions both auto and stick are easy to source. Not what I would do, but an example; (I would leave that top cover off and try to make the motor look a little more vintage)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIT2FlDSdfcQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Originally Posted By Tim_McBride:
Ultimately the goal with this is going to be an enjoyable driver. So I'm willing to do something off like a Supra motor, as long as it'll all fit and won't break the bank. Not what I would do, but an example; (I would leave that top cover off and try to make the motor look a little more vintage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIT2FlDSdfc |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 6:22:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Madcap72]
[#27]
Yea they sound tough AF.
Then again, they are Hemi engines.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 6:49:03 PM EDT
[#28]
Fenders for a driver, and Ford power, of course.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 7:47:14 PM EDT
[#29]
OST
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AR, USA
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Posted: 7/16/2017 7:56:50 PM EDT
[#30]
If you could figure out the carburetion and ignition a dodge v10 would be a very good looking powerful engine that would be cheap to buy and wildly different
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Posted: 7/16/2017 8:27:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Chairborne]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Madcap72:
Fit... idk, reliable daily driver? A naturally aspirated 6m (carbs) from a mk2 supra, 7m (fuel injected) from a mk 3 or cressida would be cheap as dirt, and a good once over pretty darn reliable. A 2jz would cost a little more, but be stone cold reliable. Plus, in that light of car, all three motors would scoot even NA. Also, transmissions both auto and stick are easy to source. Not what I would do, but an example; (I would leave that top cover off and try to make the motor look a little more vintage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIT2FlDSdfc7MGTE is a great motor, would be easy as pie to fit in the engine bay too. ETA: If you want a 1JZGTE I can find you a chaser here for <$4K and steal the motor. I saw one sell recently for under $2K. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 8:31:06 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NoImpactNoIdea:
Ive always been partial to 5 windows. I have a 30/31 that has been "in progress" since 2006. In all honesty don't have the time and will likely never finish it. I voted fenders. As for a drivetrain..if it isn't a stick it isn't a hotrod. If it was mine..I'd dig up a chevy 292 straight 6, build a stout bottom end and turbo the hell out of it. |
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AR, USA
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Posted: 7/16/2017 8:36:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Krochus]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Striker:
you need to send that to me for safe keeping. I voted fenders. As for a drivetrain..if it isn't a stick it isn't a hotrod. If it was mine..I'd dig up a chevy 292 straight 6, build a stout bottom end and turbo the hell out of it. A Jeep 4.0 would look nice. Be very good in terms of parts availability AND can have an excellent AX15 trans bolted to them. The aftermarket for them is pretty vibrant too |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 8:38:07 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Krochus:
A ford 300 would accomplish the same thing but with far more engines available The 300 is a great motor, would look badass with a turbo or two smaller turbos hanging off the side of it. |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 1:09:39 AM EDT
[#35]
how about another engine option thats still blue, kinda the yamaha built SHO motors?
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Posted: 7/17/2017 1:30:06 AM EDT
[#36]
Man you guys keep coming up with some crazy motor options. I put some feelers out on a supra motor that madCap talked about, see if anything turns up.
All I did tonight was hit the frame with a disc and knock off rust in a section, then primered it. I did pull the front end out from it and set it on saw horses so the height is better. Hoping next weekend to go pick up the rear end and body. Pretty much decided on the Tudor Body. On the steering trying to make up my mind, Mustang II manual rack and pinion or a unisteer designed for the A. The MII I'd mount to the axle, the Unisteer mounts in the standard location you'd put a vega box. The Uni steer is $ 370 ish from speedway and looks simple. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Unisteer-1928-32-Ford-Cross-Steer-Rack-and-Pinion,2033.html MII parts are dirt cheap: $149 at speedway but I'll have to do more fab work. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Power-and-Manual-Rack-and-Pinions,2112.html Leaning hard at the MII rack right now, $230 bucks is huge difference in cost and the MII parts I know I'll always be able to get. |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 1:44:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: NoImpactNoIdea]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Striker:
you need to send that to me for safe keeping. I voted fenders. As for a drivetrain..if it isn't a stick it isn't a hotrod. If it was mine..I'd dig up a chevy 292 straight 6, build a stout bottom end and turbo the hell out of it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Striker:
Originally Posted By NoImpactNoIdea:
Ive always been partial to 5 windows. I have a 30/31 that has been "in progress" since 2006. In all honesty don't have the time and will likely never finish it. I voted fenders. As for a drivetrain..if it isn't a stick it isn't a hotrod. If it was mine..I'd dig up a chevy 292 straight 6, build a stout bottom end and turbo the hell out of it.  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 3:42:20 AM EDT
[#38]
NoImpactNoIdea that is nice start to an awesome rod. FINISH IT!
I spent a bunch of time tonight listing shit on the EE for car funds. Shitty time to sell shit in this AR market though. LOL |
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MN, USA
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Posted: 7/17/2017 8:06:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: karlb]
[#39]
Use the 4 door body, but eliminate the front doors. Slide the back doors/rear body forward to meet the cowl, making a short Bantam coupe type body with suicide doors. Or just use the Tudor body.
Use the SBC with the 4 speed. Easy, quick, fits well and your frame is already set up for it. Get a reproduction Vega box. The Unisteer's turning radius is HUGE. The Mustang II rack should be mounted directly to the axle to work safely. If it's mounted to the frame, it'll bump steer like crazy. If you mount it to the axle, you'll increase the unsprung weight on the front. |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 12:22:53 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Krochus:
A ford 300 would accomplish the same thing but with far more engines available A Jeep 4.0 would look nice. Be very good in terms of parts availability AND can have an excellent AX15 trans bolted to them. The aftermarket for them is pretty vibrant too |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 12:25:27 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NoImpactNoIdea:
Im not sure what the CAD/USD conversion rate is these days but Im sure we could work something out. Ill see if I can dig out some pics. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/74034/car1-256044.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/74034/car2-256045.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/74034/car3-256046.JPG  a 34 5 window full fendered coupe has always been my dream car..
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Posted: 7/17/2017 7:44:57 PM EDT
[#42]
Good luck. I have this at work right now.
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Posted: 7/17/2017 8:14:34 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By m35ben:
Good luck. I have this at work right now. http://i.imgur.com/Bbhp6l8.jpg |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 8:20:28 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By karlb:
Use the 4 door body, but eliminate the front doors. Slide the back doors/rear body forward to meet the cowl, making a short Bantam coupe type body with suicide doors. |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 8:25:54 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By karlb:
Get a reproduction Vega box. The Unisteer's turning radius is HUGE. The Mustang II rack should be mounted directly to the axle to work safely. If it's mounted to the frame, it'll bump steer like crazy. If you mount it to the axle, you'll increase the unsprung weight on the front. |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 8:27:49 PM EDT
[#46]
No work on the car today. Work next 4 nights. Had court this morning.
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Posted: 7/17/2017 8:51:01 PM EDT
[#47]
Here's a '29 Briggs Blind Back Sedan on deuce rails that I started a few years ago. It got pushed to the side for a couple other projects and is currently just sitting.
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Posted: 7/19/2017 4:07:51 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RobertL:
Here's a '29 Briggs Blind Back Sedan on deuce rails that I started a few years ago. It got pushed to the side for a couple other projects and is currently just sitting. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/67156/IMG-0159-256572.jpg |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 4:09:53 AM EDT
[#49]
Ordered a manual MII rack and pinion, steering arms(I have chevy spindles), spring U Bolt kit and little stuff from Speedway. Live in NE so i have to pay tax but no shipping. $ 282.41 spent.
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Posted: 7/19/2017 4:19:04 AM EDT
[#50]
Some decisions got made today.
Power Plant will be a 327 block I have with the NV3500 5 speed, I need to get heads for it. The ones I have are shot I found out. It will be the Tudor Body Possibly have a Lincoln rear end lined up with rear discs. have to do some measuring. I still really want to do something with that darn Toyota straight six idea of Madcaps, so I am still looking around here for a motor. If I find one I'll snag it up, and then it'll get set aside. I've got an idea in the back of my mind but it'll have to sit until this is done. |
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