I've gotten tempted by the newer Mustangs. I've pinned down a few wish list items. Coyote V8, auto, backup camera, 2012 or newer, and hopefully Performance Pack.

While I'm poking about autotrader, what are the hints that a car has the performance pack? Is it worth the extra cash?

Knowing that I know just enough to not know what I don't know, what should I know about these?

That is it also 2011 and the MT-82 is garbage.

OP, find stuff like this online

2012 - http://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2012&postalCode=35474
2013 - http://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2013&postalCode=35474
2014- http://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2014&postalCode=35474

It's all gonna come down to how much you wanna spend but there are two different mustangs here 2011-2014 and 2015+

2011-2014 has the solid axle
2015+ has IRS
2011-2014 is a few hundred pounds lighter than 2015 = faster or equally as fast even though 2015+ has slightly more HP (they both run a 12.9 in the 1/4)

If it was me I'd find the following:
2011-2012 with the following options
1. brembo brake package (easy to identify as it requires special 19" black wheels) plus suspension mods
2. 6 speed manual transmission
3. 3.73 rear axle
4. less than 40k miles
5. minimal comfort options like navigation or back up cameras or bullshit like that as it adds weight and unnecessary cost increases
6. 100% COMPLETELY STOCK NO MODIFICATIONS

2013-2014
1. same as above only get the GT track package as it includes the brembo package and 3.73 gears plus a Torsen rear end and other Boss 302 parts
2. Recaro seats - don't puss out, get the Recaros


To find these types of cars you're going to have to travel and most likely buy it from a private individual as 90% of the mustangs on a dealer used lot are not ideal, modified or beat on.  Craigslist, ebay, and Mustang forums will be where you'll want to look on a national level.  Spend the $100 fly in drive back.  Mustangs are everywhere so to stand out you gotta get one with rare performance options, a GT500 or a Boss 302

2015+ Performance Pack is manual trans only.  I opted out of the PP option because I daily drive and take on long trips.  I wanted a spare tire.  It's also an option.  You put mismatched rear tires  on the Torsen diff, you will destroy it.  

Autos quicker, but manual is more fun.  If you get a manual, replace the shifter with a Barton or MGW.  Replace fluid with BG fluid. Clutch is a POS. Prepare to replace it with something better.  I'm eventually installing a McLeod RST dual plate.  Car rides much better with Steeda Progressive springs.  Test drive carefully, some of the S550's have a reputation to have bad vibration issues from 45-70 MPH.  Reportedly an easy fix by shimming the crossmember down 1/8-1/4".  Ford refused to admit an issue and dealerships have been trying to fix things by swapping parts, but no one will admit it's a drive line angle issue.  

Exhaust is way too quiet.  Plan on replacing that too, if you want it to sound like a performance car and not a Prius.

If you plan on supercharging or the Shelby intake upgrade, prepare to swap out the oil pump gears at the same time.  Stock cannot handle high RPM's and they  will come apart at 7000 RPM's and wipe out your crankshaft instantly.  

Paint is very thin and chips and scratches extremely easy.

If you work on your own car, get a set of Steeda jacking rails.  With the IRS rear, it makes putting the car in the air much easier.  

I've had my '15 since Nov 5, '14.  It's been a blast to drive.  Sure, it has a few negatives, but the fun factor outshines the flaws.

I don't want to go too far back. a 2012-13 is about the oldest I want to look at. Right now I don't have a clear perspective on what specific year I want. 

I'm not looking for a track day car or a pure 'play' car. Based on comments from Top Gear, I think the best categorization would be Grand Touring or Sport Touring. Most of the time it will be a daily driver stuck in Atlanta traffic. There will be times when traffic is light and I can enjoy some speed and power, but not often enough to justify going for hardcore performance.

The brochures mentioned that rated power on the standard 5.0 was with premium. are these cars limited to premium only, or will the ECU adjust down for lower gas ratings?

I run 87 in mine all the time now.  First year I ran premium. I wasted a lot of money on premium.

15+ has IRS, but no Perf Pack for Autos. (Except for a very few LE models)

2018 will have PP available for the 10 speed Auto.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/ Big forum for 6th Gen.(S550)

I have a 6th Gen but never driven previous models. Everyone says the 6th Gen drives way better than earlier models.

The S550 looks so much better too.

Here's mine:

Maybe a 4.6 you can do that but if you try that on a GM LT1 or LS1, LS3, etc, you will notice a drop in performance as the computer will change the fuel mapping and timing.  I would expect the cammer 5.0 to be tuning wise in line with a GM LS.


OP if you are NOT prepared to put premium gas in a car like this, you SHOULDN'T buy one and go with a V6 mustang.  

What you need to decide is do you want a 11-14 or a 15 plus as they are TOTALLY DIFFERENT CARS.  Not being a Mustang guy you should probably go with a 2015+ as it was tailored appeal to more people where as the 1965-2014 was like "Fuck you this is a Mustang, don't like it? Go buy something else."

This all started last weekend. I show up to help a buddy move and park behind a new Roush. I get home and a friend of a friend has a 12GT in my driveway. I didn't get to try the Roush, but I was given the keys to the 2012. I fit, and the power seemed right. I was not a fan of the manual though. The shifter was short but felt a little weird. No real definition to the gates yet I missed a shift when it felt like there was no gear/gate to drop it into. 

I'm not new to cars that want premium. (damn you BMW) I understand that you will not get rated power with regular. I was just hoping the ECU would remap for sub-standard gas. (and yes, I know turbo or supercharged motors are a different matter)

I don't know that I can afford an order to spec 18, but I am partial to the looks of the newest generation. I'll go older for the right deal, but I'm leaning towards newer.

One of the things I want in a car is nice, predictable handling on curves. Is there a lot of difference in this area between the solid and independent rear generations?

Then get a newer model with the IRS. Mid corner bumps wont upset the rear near as much.

I can answer this question on an 11-14 GT......Look at the oil cap, 5W-50 = Track Pack.  

This TP includes some Boss parts; oil cooler, radiator, and usually has the Brembo Brakes, etc etc.  The TP also came with different shocks/springs.

Note; Just the presence of Brembo brakes does not make it a TP.  These could be ordered a la carte.

I have a 95 Cobra, 05 GT and a 15 GT.

A solid rear axle does not make for crap handling.    If you are going to be deliberately stupid or hoon it, maybe you will wind up with issues but that can be predictable as well...   But I can tell you that my 95 Cobra does in fact handle almost as well as my 2015 GT Perf Pack.

Drive a 2015 GT Perf Pack and a 2013 Track Pack...   see which you like more, they are both damn good.   Torsen rear diff being one of the things that will help the rear traction on bith cars.


Both have the MT82 which has a shit assed remote shifter and shit assed clutch.   Shifters like Barton and MGW are popular and can help a ton.   Clutches generally go out prematurely when driven hard and often lock you out of shifts at higher rpm.

 A manual is not on my shopping list. Between my test drive experience, anecdotal evidence, Atlanta commute traffic, and a sub-optimal left ankle/knee an auto is a rather firm preference.

I'll start paying attention to the oil cap on the older cars. Great hint - Thanks. 

You wont find a track pack auto...