So I have this 05 escape. I hate it, but its mine. The brakes were a little crusty, nasty and making noise so I decided I will put new pads and rotors on. After tear down I discovered the rubber hoses needing change so I ordered those to avoid paying an arm and a leg. The car sat for about 2 weeks with the brake system open, draining probably all or most of the fluid out. I finally get all the parts and put it together.

I bleed the brakes by first opening the bleeders with a clear rubber hose from the bleeder to a bottle of break fluid and pump until I see no air bubbles. I repeat this procedure for each wheel EXCEPT the passenger side rear, the damn bleeder screw is frozen in the caliper. So I bleed it via the rubber hose using the old old pump, hold, loosen, tighten, release method. The breaks feel good until I start the engine, then they are very soft. So I perform the same bleeding procedure with the engine running with no change, I am not even getting any air out of the lines. I perform the bleed again with the die hard pump, hold, release method as above, no avail. Same method engine running... no avail. I remove the caliper with the stuck bleeder screw, fill caliper with fluid via banjo bolt hole, Put back together, remount, and perform bleed again... Still wayyyy soft pedal. I bleed the master cylinder via the pump, hold, loosen fitting, tighten and release method no air and no change in pedal feel.

Confirmed via test ride the breaks are extremely weak and soft. Very little stopping power.

I have never had this much trouble bleeding brakes. NO LEAKS, no fluid around the master cylinder or vacuum diaphragm.

Its a non-hybrid 4 wheel disc set up.

Is there something I am not aware about this particular model? I have bleed the brake before with no issues.

It has to be bled by machine.
I tried and tried on my 03 Exploder and could not get it.
It's because of the ABS.

Only used DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid types. Do not let the master run dry when bleeding or you will have to yank the master, bench bleed it, get the air out of the ABS module, and then bleed through all the air in the lines.

Yep, dry master and ABS.  Need to bench and pressure bleed it.

You let the master cylinder drain, it needs to be bled. I'm not sure how this us done on your vehicle, there should be a bleed bolt on it someplace. I recommend buying a motive pressure bleeder (less than $100 on Amazon), makes fast work out if bleeding brakes.

Sounds like the HCU will need to be bled. Youll need a scan tool with appropriate software on it to do this. After that is done then you can bleed the brakes the usual way (The service manual specifies 10 pumps of the brake pedal before cracking the bleeder, starting at the farthest bleeder from the MC).

If the ABS works just skid your brakes in grass or gravel then bleed again, it will help purge SOME of the air and get you driving again. Having the unit cycled by a shop would be best.