What year GM 5.3s with AFM do I need to avoid? - Page 1

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - What year GM 5.3s with AFM do I need to avoid?

Posted: 6/19/2017 1:00:59 AM EDT

Looking at getting a Suburban or a Tahoe, but I have heard some 5.3s have oiling issues. When did they fix these issues? Anyway I can fix the issue without tearing the engine apart before there is a problem?

A family friend has a 2010 or a 2011 with right around 100k miles on the clock and he is planning on selling it soon. One owner, guy doesn't drive like an A hole so we are contemplating this one.

Posted: 6/19/2017 2:25:54 AM EDT

[#1]

Pretty sure you should avoid all GM of any year.

Posted: 6/19/2017 7:25:44 AM EDT

[#2]

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Quoted:
Pretty sure you should avoid all GM of any year.

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Posted: 6/19/2017 7:43:31 AM EDT

[#3]

Wife's '05 TB LT EXT 5.3 aluminum block LH6 sucks a quart every 800-900 miles. Wife still loves it, no car payments for the last 8 years. No biggie.

Posted: 6/19/2017 7:52:06 AM EDT

[#4]

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Quoted:
Pretty sure you should avoid all GM of any year.

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Partially correct.

Basically any GM with the AFM system as they have yet to correct this little failure point

Posted: 6/19/2017 7:30:13 PM EDT

[#5]

my sierra is an 08. It drove me nuts at first having to add a quart of oil between changes but..I've got over 150000 miles on it..I've never done a thing to the engine except new plugs, air filter and oil changes.

Posted: 6/20/2017 12:09:13 AM EDT

[#6]

they do make DoD delete kits with new cams and lifters and all, a bit of an investment and I think you have to get the PCM reprogrammed to delete it. just food for thought

Posted: 6/20/2017 12:53:22 AM EDT

[#7]

You can put a Range AFM Disabler in it for under $200.

Plugs into the OBD slot under the dash and knocks the AFM out with no other mods.

I never noticed a gas mileage decrease when running it in my Silverado.

It actually improved the driving as I no longer had that subtle but noticeable switch from 4 to 8 cyl.

Posted: 6/20/2017 12:54:55 AM EDT

[#8]

That is technically right in the middle of the year range of the problem engines(07-13) but if you know the service history of it I wouldn't be scared of it.

Posted: 6/20/2017 2:01:35 PM EDT

[#9]

You are referring to 2 different issues.

1 was when the 5.3 first came out they were using more oil than they should have. That was fixed around 02-03

2. the cylinder deactivation stuff should be avoided if you can but pretty much any GM V8 with an auto trans has it. Honestly though, you can get a catch can and install it which solves most of that issue which for the most part is an internet over blown issue.

Posted: 6/20/2017 2:04:42 PM EDT

[#10]

2010 it is was fixed from my research
I have a 2011 Silverado 5.3 doesn't use a drop

Posted: 7/2/2017 11:59:49 PM EDT

[#11]

Thanks for the food for thought guys.

Posted: 7/3/2017 10:08:52 AM EDT

[#12]

I have an 11 z71 1500 crew cab.
Bought new.
Wife works at dealership. Camping buddy is our mechanic. Anyway 50k miles computer took a shit.
110,000 had to have a new top end put in!!! Was burning oil like crazy! Fixed under warranty. Mechanic buddy says if it wasn't under warranty to do the afm delete. But since under warranty just run it.
Another friend of mine bought the plug in that deletes the afm just because he wanted it. He claims better mpg and can "feel" a difference in performance so I don't know.

Posted: 7/3/2017 10:33:15 AM EDT

[#13]

I would FO on your buddy's ride. I would also get a DiabloTune and deactivate the AFM. You will notice it to be a little more peppy and it will not affect gas mileage. Mine actually went up after doing this.

Posted: 7/4/2017 2:13:30 AM EDT

[#14]

Problem is pretty overblown. It will consume more oil than it ideally should but not enough to cause low oil situations between 5-8k changes.

If you wanted to disable it entirely, the AFM delete kits fix the problem permanently. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-717-dod-afm-delete-kit-for-536062-engines.aspx

Posted: 7/5/2017 6:35:18 PM EDT

[#15]

Dod delete and run oil with zinc additive. Problem solved. The gen4 LS motors are the better ones to have once that has been done

Posted: 7/5/2017 6:47:53 PM EDT

[#16]

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Dod delete and run oil with zinc additive. Problem solved. The gen4 LS motors are the better ones to have once that has been done

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Why more zinc?

Posted: 7/5/2017 6:53:35 PM EDT

[#17]

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Why more zinc?

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Today's oils don't have any zinc in them. The lifters in pushrod style engines need the zinc to last. Why gm has had so much lifters issues with the Ls motors. Ask any gm tech. Motors will last 400k plus when taken care of properly. Biggest reason the motors go is a lifter goes bad and takes the cam out.

Posted: 7/5/2017 7:05:55 PM EDT

[#18]

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Today's oils don't have any zinc in them. The lifters in pushrod style engines need the zinc to last. Why gm has had so much lifters issues with the Ls motors. Ask any gm tech. Motors will last 400k plus when taken care of properly. Biggest reason the motors go is a lifter goes bad and takes the cam out.

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Are you talking about lifter tap where the lifter retention spring weakens and bleeds the lifter down too fast in gen3's, or are you talking about the AFM/DOD lifters that phase between locked/unlocked that fall apart and/or keep valves shut? The first issue with lifter tapping is obnoxious but not fatal to the engine, the latter wouldn't be helped with more zinc in your oil.

Posted: 7/5/2017 7:09:35 PM EDT

[#19]

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Are you talking about lifter tap where the lifter retention spring weakens and bleeds the lifter down too fast in gen3's, or are you talking about the AFM/DOD lifters that phase between locked/unlocked that fall apart and/or keep valves shut? The first issue with lifter tapping is obnoxious but not fatal to the engine, the latter wouldn't be helped with more zinc in your oil.

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Iam talking about the gen3 issue. A dod delete will replace the dod lifters with ls7's and you won't have that issue either. And the tapping issue if not fixed will lead to failure

Posted: 7/5/2017 7:37:37 PM EDT

[#20]

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Iam talking about the gen3 issue. A dod delete will replace the dod lifters with ls7's and you won't have that issue either. And the tapping issue if not fixed will lead to failure

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If you're going down to lifters, might as well do Comp 850-16. They're a bit higher quality and cost only $50 or so a set more. Or Morels w/ link bars

DOD lifter failures definitely cause major problems if they lock up, but the old-style tapping lifters issue doesn't appear to, at least not in any volume that I've ever seen or heard of. Regardless, zinc won't fix a lifter that bleeds down too quickly, nor will it do anything that a modern spec oil won't in regards to engine protection. Nothing has needed zinc in the mainstream since the flat-tappet went away. Obliterating a cam lobe is not a super common occurrence on any modern roller engine.

Posted: 7/5/2017 7:54:37 PM EDT

[#21]

Meh ls7's are all you need and I would go with some btr 660's and a BTR cam. Trunion is also a good insurance while your in there. I don't have one for a daily but I know a thing or two about getting some power out of one.

Posted: 7/5/2017 8:05:57 PM EDT

[#22]

Thread is very relavent to my interests as I have both a 2010 Chevy Suburban LTZ and 2011 Avalanche LTZ, both 4 WD and both with the 5.3L. The OBD fob to deactivate AFM/DOD is about $190 on amazon, the full replacement kit looks to be about ~700 ish and now I'm wondering what about just swapping the 5.3 out for something larger? 6.0 or 6.2? Can anyone point me in the direction to find out what my engine swap options are?

Posted: 7/5/2017 8:06:31 PM EDT

[#23]

My brother's work Tahoe is a 2017 and it has a serious electronic issue. Several in the fleet seem to go into a limp mode, and sometimes just fucking die for no reason. It actually did this while I was in it once.

The 5.3 is also gutless.

Yeah, I am shopping now too, and will probably get a third Hemi. Arfcom basement dwellers say these are junk, but I have had no issues with any Dodge/Ram I have owned.

Posted: 7/5/2017 8:21:42 PM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
Thread is very relavent to my interests as I have both a 2010 Chevy Suburban LTZ and 2011 Avalanche LTZ, both 4 WD and both with the 5.3L. The OBD fob to deactivate AFM/DOD is about $190 on amazon, the full replacement kit looks to be about ~700 ish and now I'm wondering what about just swapping the 5.3 out for something larger? 6.0 or 6.2? Can anyone point me in the direction to find out what my engine swap options are?

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Deleting the electronic part of dod does nothing for actually fixing the issue. Need a dod delete kit. I recommend the BTR kit. The 6.2 is more powerful engine but not worth the money for the swap. Just fix the 5.3 and it will do great for you.

Posted: 7/5/2017 8:23:27 PM EDT

[#25]

Quote History

Quoted:
My brother's work Tahoe is a 2017 and it has a serious electronic issue. Several in the fleet seem to go into a limp mode, and sometimes just fucking die for no reason. It actually did this while I was in it once.

The 5.3 is also gutless.

Yeah, I am shopping now too, and will probably get a third Hemi. Arfcom basement dwellers say these are junk, but I have had no issues with any Dodge/Ram I have owned.

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The new LT 5.3's are direct injection and do have a bunch of issues.

Posted: 7/6/2017 7:50:23 AM EDT

[#26]

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Quoted:
Meh ls7's are all you need and I would go with some btr 660's and a BTR cam. Trunion is also a good insurance while your in there. I don't have one for a daily but I know a thing or two about getting some power out of one.

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae246/nalleywhacker/0603162122_zpsda1icirl.jpg

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mild derailment, 3rd Gen Fbody? car/setup looks familiar

Posted: 7/6/2017 8:06:49 AM EDT

[#27]

I have a 2010 5.3L Sierra I bought with 100,000 miles on the clock. I now have 140k on the clock and haven't really had many issues. Every once in a while my oil will get low so, I add more. Not really a big deal.

Posted: 7/6/2017 8:21:11 AM EDT

[#28]

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mild derailment, 3rd Gen Fbody? car/setup looks familiar

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Looks like a fox mustang

Which is what you are supposed to use not some garbage F body

Posted: 7/6/2017 8:28:49 AM EDT

[#29]

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Quoted:

Looks like a fox mustang

Which is what you are supposed to use not some garbage F body

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I see the headlight now. damn tiny phone screens.

Posted: 7/8/2017 4:12:01 AM EDT

[#30]

No need for a zinc additive or a racing oil if you don't have a flat tappet cam/lifters. I don't think any domestic V8 has had that issue since at least late 1998 when the BBF finally retired, and the super duty came around. Mopar and GM went roller cam at least a few years before the Ford dinosaur finally bowed out.

Posted: 7/8/2017 8:46:39 PM EDT

[#31]

Update

My wife's aunt and uncle have a 2010 Yukon XL with 66k on the clock and it consumes a little bit of oil.

If we could buy it right, it would be worth it to do the delete kit and have a trouble free 5.3

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - What year GM 5.3s with AFM do I need to avoid?

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